tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-65763463475731882272024-03-15T18:09:45.451-07:00Powder Coating: The Complete GuidePowder Coating: The Complete Guide is a complete guide to DIY powder coating. This guide will teach you everything you need to know about setting up your equipment and how to powder coat. PowderCoatGuidehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12345212251907477269noreply@blogger.comBlogger27125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6576346347573188227.post-26677404610012619592018-09-25T06:51:00.009-07:002021-07-03T11:12:03.085-07:00How to Build a Powder Coating Oven<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Powder coating requires either an oven or infrared heating in order to cure the powder. A household oven or even a toaster oven are great for smaller parts, but you will always be limited by the oven size. If you are interested in a smaller oven, check out the original oven article: <b><a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2012/12/beginner-ovens.html#.VBmL6-W6PxU" target="_blank">Powder Coating Ovens</a></b>. If you want to start powder coating large parts, you will either need to spend a lot of money or make your own. In this article, I will be focusing on how to build your own powder coating oven. It may seem intimidating if you have never attempted this kind of project, but with the information available on the internet, you can easily tackle this job, save money and end up with a large powder coating oven. No welding is required to build the powder coating oven featured in this article. This is part one of a two-part powder coating oven build. See <b><a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2014/09/how-to-build-powder-coating-oven-part-ii.html#.WLn0GH-mLWB" target="_blank">How to Build a Powder Coating Oven Part II</a></b> for the remaining steps.<br />
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You can build your powder coating oven to the size you need, and you can also build in some features to make your powder coating more efficient. This article is a guide to give you an idea of what all is involved and the basic oven construction principles. A unique thing about this oven is that absolutely nothing protrudes into the oven space. The entire interior space of the oven is usable. All heating elements, lights, fans, etc. are recessed into the walls. Building the oven this way allows you to build a powder coating rack that tightly fits into the oven with no wasted space. You would do all of your powder coating on the rack, then roll the rack into the oven for curing. This however, does add some complexity and increases the cost of materials needed to build the oven. You can choose to build your oven like this for maximum space savings or you can go the traditional route. The great thing about building your own oven is that it is completely up to you. This particular oven costs around $1,400 to build. Some money can be saved by not recessing everything as that requires more building materials. But plan to spend at least $1,000 for an oven build of this size.<br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"> Features of this Powder Coating Oven</span> </h3>
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<li><b>3.4 ft Wide x 3.4 ft Deep x 6.5 ft Tall</b> </li>
<li><b>Rivet construction, no welding required</b></li>
<li><b>20-gauge sheet metal with 16-gauge sheet metal on the floor</b></li>
<li><b>4 recessed 2000 Watt heating elements (240 Volt service)</b></li>
<li><b>Recessed lighting</b></li>
<li><b>Recessed convection fan and ducting</b></li>
<li><b>PID controller</b></li>
<li><b>Window in door </b></li>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;">Quick Rundown of Powder Coating Oven Construction and Materials.</span></h3>
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The basic construction of this and most powder coating ovens is a steel stud and steel track frame which is riveted together. Both sides of the frame will be skinned with sheet metal with insulation in between. This oven uses 20-gauge sheet metal everywhere except for the floor which is 16-gauge sheet metal. The reason for the thicker gauge metal on the floor is to allow it to support the weight of a powder coating rack. All sheet metal, studs, and track can be purchased locally from Home Depot, Lowe's, or a local metal supply company. You can buy it online as well, but shipping costs will likely cancel out any cost savings. It is best to shop around, call some metal supply places in your area and get some quotes. Inside of the oven is where you will put the heating elements, which will be wired to a control box on the outside of the oven.<br />
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<span style="font-size: x-large;">Let's Get Started - Framing Materials & Tools</span></h4>
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<p>We will start with the framing. The framing for this oven will all be made with <a href="http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbranded-3-5-8-in-x-10-ft-25-Gauge-Galvanized-Steel-Wall-Framing-Stud-726330/202836663" target="_blank">galvanized steel studs</a> and track. Steel track is very similar to steel studs except that they do not have a lip on the inside of the stud. This allows the steel studs to fit into the track. These are the same studs used to frame homes. They are available at both Home Depot and Lowe's for about $7.00 each. They are 3 5/8" wide x 1 5/8" thick and are available in 10' lengths or 8' lengths. It is best to buy a bunch of these to begin with. You don't have to get to scientific with it figuring out exactly how many you will need, you can purchase more as you go along. Working with these is pretty easy as they are quite thin (25-gauge). They are easy to drill and they can be cut with tin snips or a <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Makita-2414DB-14-Inch-Portable-Cut-Off/dp/B00004YOD5/ref=as_li_ss_tl?keywords=abrasive+chop+saw&qid=1575546105&refinements=p_85:2470955011&rnid=2470954011&rps=1&sr=8-14&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=e29292a280c7f9d8b1a901a03067e135&language=en_US">chop saw</a>. Since you will be cutting a lot of studs, I recommend a at least a good set of snips like these: <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Aviation-Snips-Cutting-Snippers-M123R/dp/B00KXF26AE/ref=as_li_ss_tl?keywords=tin+snips+wiss&qid=1553594842&s=gateway&sr=8-2&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=73bc428989c1ab57a42d3161c590002d&language=en_US" target="_blank">Wiss Tin Snips</a>. <br />
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<a href="https://www.amazon.com/Rivets-Diameter-Steel-Blind-0-020-0-125/dp/B07JZD3FJP/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1541850595&sr=8-4&keywords=1/8%22+rivets+steel+1000+zinc&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=192a25a1d841d812b126a1d42231af3f&language=en_US" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="https://www.amazon.com/Rivets-Diameter-Steel-Blind-0-020-0-125/dp/B07JZD3FJP/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1541850595&sr=8-4&keywords=1/8%22+rivets+steel+1000+zinc&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=192a25a1d841d812b126a1d42231af3f&language=en_US" border="0" data-original-height="500" data-original-width="500" height="200" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-iRbXGA9t9hI/W-bGv-03qaI/AAAAAAAADy8/gocEYnsyqrQE2gwU1QwzM4fXfQPM7qoKgCLcBGAs/s200/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Brivets.jpg" title="powder coating oven rivets" width="200" /></a></div>
The framing will all be held together with rivets Rivets are really easy to use, and they are cheap. You first drill a hole, then with a rivet gun, you place a rivet into the hole, squeeze the trigger and you are done. You are probably familiar with a <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00063Y1F6/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00063Y1F6&linkCode=as2&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=44LZYDVXC4HJ4RZR" target="_blank">hand rivet gun</a>, but I strongly recommend a pneumatic rivet gun if you have an air compressor (you have read my article about <a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2013/10/choosing-air-compressor.html" target="_blank">How to Buy an Air Compressor</a> right?). A pneumatic rivet gun will save you tons of time and you you'll still have use of your hands at the end of the day. Again, I recommend a decent pneumatic rivet gun, this <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000MQ9H4W/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B000MQ9H4W&linkCode=as2&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=2XNA5J25SITFANWA" target="_blank">Astro Pneumatic Air Riveter</a> offers a good price/performance ratio. It is by no means an industrial tool, but you will pay several hundred dollars for a high end pneumatic rivet gun. Another great option, especially if you have already invested in some Milwaukee M12 cordless tools and batteries, is the <a href="https://www.amazon.com/M12-Cordless-Rivet-Tool-Kit/dp/B07BWPKWN6/ref=as_li_ss_tl?dchild=1&keywords=rivet+gun&qid=1587858024&sr=8-16&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=3fbe93c0391d5d6c8ec2ccfbf3816edf&language=en_US">Milwaukee M12 Cordless Electric Rivet Gun</a>. You will need lots of rivets to go with whatever rivet gun you decide to use. The most important thing about rivets is to make sure they are the same type of metal as what you are working with to avoid galvanic corrosion. Since this is a steel oven build, you will need steel rivets. Also important with rivets is to drill the appropriately sized hole. A <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Rivets-Diameter-Steel-Blind-0-020-0-125/dp/B07JZD3FJP/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1541850595&sr=8-4&keywords=1/8%22+rivets+steel+1000+zinc&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=87fc0127c690be1751c308f1c4b6aa83&language=en_US">pack of 1000 3/16" diameter x 1/8" grip steel pop rivets</a> should get you through the oven build with a few left over. These will allow you to rivet stacks of metal with a maximum thickness of 0.125" and a minimum thickness of 0.020". Make sure to adjust accordingly if you are using thinner or heavier gauge steel studs and sheet metal. The 3/16" rivets mentioned require a #11 Drill bit for best fit. <br />
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Now that you have your rivets, rivet gun, and studs, you can start to build the floor frame. Make sure you cut and measure the floor to exactly the size you want your oven to be. Your walls will sit on top of the floor. When making the square section of the floor, you will overlap the studs so that they sit inside of each other on the corners. Once you have the studs in place, you can keep them there with a <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004SBBN/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00004SBBN&linkCode=as2&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=SJZYZHJQCBIM6L2Y" target="_blank">locking c-clamp</a>. You will then rivet where they overlap on top and bottom (see the red dots in the pictures below for rivet locations). Start with one rivet per corner so that the studs are able to pivot. Use a <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Swanson-Tool-S0101CB-Square-Combination/dp/B00SOVRPXW/ref=as_li_ss_tl?keywords=speed+square&qid=1575545720&sr=8-4&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=1d39b8a9fa0f08a80614c8f57fab71a6&language=en_US" target="_blank">speed square</a> to square up each corner (ensuring all corners are exactly 90° before you add an additional rivet to each corner.<br />
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Once all four sides of the floor are cut to length, and riveted in place, add additional studs to further brace the floor. Not only does the floor support the weight of all of the oven walls and components, it also should be strong enough to support powder coating racks and even the weight of a person, if you wish to stand in the oven to do maintenance or cleaning. With this in mind, make sure to choose thick enough sheet metal that the floor does not bow in and support it with enough bracing so that it remains sturdy. <br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Floor-less Powder Coating Oven?</b><i> </i></span></h4>
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<i>An important thing to consider when you are planning your powder coating oven build, is whether you actually want a floor frame or not. The advantage of not having a floor frame is that it allows you to roll a rack of powder coated parts into the oven easily. While this is possible with a floor frame, it requires a two-piece sliding rack. The oven featured in this article can actually be built nearly identical without a floor frame, and instead, using a piece of sheet metal as the floor. You can see in the picture below how a rack would roll into a floor-less powder coating oven much easier.</i><br />
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The same stud, track, and rivet construction is continued for the walls, the picture below is the back wall. The side walls are made the same way, just make sure you measure and account for the thickness of the back wall. <br />
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You will then place the walls on top of the floor, one at a time, and rivet them to the floor: <br />
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Once you have the back wall in place, and have constructed the side walls, you will put them in place and rivet them to the floor and to the back wall.<br />
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Then assemble the ceiling the same way you assembled the floor:<br />
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This is the point of the build where the recessed heating elements come into play. The heating elements have their own boxed-in sections in the walls, but every square inch of the powder coating oven must be insulated. The hollow area between the studs is where the insulation would usually be placed, however since the heating elements will be taking up that hollow space in these boxed-in sections, another boxed-in section of insulation must be added to the outside of the oven where the heating elements are recessed. If you do not plan on recessing heating elements and other items in the oven walls, then you will exclude these boxed-in sections.<br />
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Here you can see the boxed in sections on the bottom for the heating elements, along with additional support studs in the walls:<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-HIx-B5fh7mk/VAbkOkm7uXI/AAAAAAAABac/Wf1AWpnmJA0/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B17.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Powder Coating Oven Wall Frame" border="0" height="640" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-HIx-B5fh7mk/VAbkOkm7uXI/AAAAAAAABac/Wf1AWpnmJA0/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B17.jpg" title="Powder Coating Oven Wall Frame" width="475" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;">Skinning the Inside with Sheet Metal</span></h3>
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Once the structure is framed up, you then will begin skinning it will sheet metal. Sheet metal can be purchased at your local Home Depot or Lowe's but if you go through a metal supply company, most of them have will cut the sheet metal to your specifications. You will need long straight cuts here and companies that deal primarily with sheet metal will have large brakes that can cleanly makes these cuts for you. I recommend galvanized steel sheet metal which will help keep your oven rust free. This particular oven uses 20-gauge steel everywhere except the floor which is 16-gauge. When choosing the thickness, you will want to stay in the 16-gauge to 26-gauge range. Each has its benefits and drawbacks. Using a thinner gauge is cheaper and will allow the oven to heat up faster. Thicker gauge is more expensive, but sturdier and will retain the heat better once the oven it is heated up. This saves on heating costs. The sheet metal used to skin the oven is the primary reason why I cannot give you an exact cost of the oven build. Depending on your location, the sheet metal price can vary drastically. Its a good idea to google the local sheet metal suppliers in your area and call/email them for a quote. If you can, contact several so you can make sure you are getting a good price.<br />
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The first layer of 16-gauge is laid down on the inside of the floor and riveted into place, also additional stud supports are added to the bottom. Do not skimp on the rivets here, the sheet metal ties all of the framing together and keeps the frame from flexing or sagging.<br />
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During this part of the build, you will notice that the sheet metal does not sit perfectly flush against the frame due to the small protrusion of the rivet heads (~1/16"). It is a small gap, and usually not a big deal because the sheet metal is thin enough to conform around the rivets. However, if you want to ensure a perfectly air-tight seal between the sheet metal and the frame, you can use <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Rutland-600-Degree-Silicone-Cartridge-10-3-Ounce/dp/B001GP3AE6/ref=as_li_ss_tl?&imprToken=H5BWJd.D84WDMozliGHkJg&slotNum=14&ie=UTF8&qid=1517932902&sr=8-4&keywords=high+temp+sealant&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=8c6d8363081fa5dd917850d9af94cd12&language=en_US">high-temperature sealant</a> between the two, before riveting the sheet metal into place. However, this is a step you must contemplate somewhat. If you need to disassemble the oven for any reason at a later date, the sealant will add considerable time to the process.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-YKVxKfVY0T4/VAbnIme7w9I/AAAAAAAABas/eAncw11tHg0/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B18.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Powder Coating Oven Floor Frame" border="0" height="473" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-YKVxKfVY0T4/VAbnIme7w9I/AAAAAAAABas/eAncw11tHg0/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B18.jpg" title="Powder Coating Oven Floor Frame" width="640" /></a></div>
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The entire inside of the oven is now skinned:<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-0RQm22NYG8w/VAbnyDqqgUI/AAAAAAAABa0/d_f2SLQFbxc/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B21.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Powder Coating Oven Build" border="0" height="640" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-0RQm22NYG8w/VAbnyDqqgUI/AAAAAAAABa0/d_f2SLQFbxc/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B21.jpg" title="Powder Coating Oven Build" width="475" /></a></div>
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After everything is skinned, the four cutouts for the heating elements are made using a <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-4000-4-34-Variable-Rotary/dp/B00LUU2XFO/ref=as_li_ss_tl?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00LUU2XFO&pd_rd_r=effd0149-b4d3-46eb-89c9-f5991c9496fe&pd_rd_w=bd5Xi&pd_rd_wg=t3VnV&pf_rd_p=49740592-2805-416d-896c-b825ad91c2cf&pf_rd_r=17R2AK3NTFTH4QX4ZYN2&psc=1&refRID=17R2AK3NTFTH4QX4ZYN2&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=2f9bdf0e379fb8df940943f7e74be869&language=en_US">Dremel</a> with a <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-420-Heavy-Cut-Off-Wheels/dp/B00004UDH3/ref=as_li_ss_tl?dchild=1&keywords=dremel+cutting+discs&qid=1587962661&sr=8-7&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=a157a78572332a8dddee7625d744ffbf&language=en_US">cutting disc</a>. A <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002STSOY/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B0002STSOY&linkCode=as2&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=2HWESQM4WB63VY4P" target="_blank">pneumatic cut-off tool</a> or <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-MLW252220-FUEL-Compact-Tool/dp/B07H7SH6HC/ref=as_li_ss_tl?crid=UAD0PPRMSMRB&dchild=1&keywords=milwaukee+cut+off+tool&qid=1587962360&sprefix=milwuakee+cut,aps,187&sr=8-1&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=1d521f56273400b4f47864c9fa817ea2&language=en_US">cordless electric cut off tool</a> would also work here, whatever you have available to you to cut sheet metal. Make sure to mark all your cuts accurately with a straight-edge and a square. With enough planning, you can have these cuts included when you purchase your sheet metal.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DtK0VDpHwss/VAbo8nZmVyI/AAAAAAAABa8/zc9nRWvabWY/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B26.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Powder Coating Oven Build heating element space" border="0" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DtK0VDpHwss/VAbo8nZmVyI/AAAAAAAABa8/zc9nRWvabWY/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B26.jpg" title="Powder Coating Oven Build heating element space" width="296" /></a></div>
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<h3>
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<h3>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">CONVECTION BLOWER & DUCTING</span></h3>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"> </span></h3>
This oven will have a convection system to keep the temperature consistent throughout the entire oven space. When powder coating, consistent and reliable oven temperatures are very important so this is a highly recommended step. The oven circulation is done by adding a high-temp blower to the top that has an intake for the rising hot oven air, which then blows it back down to the bottom of the oven using ducts. This helps equalize temperatures throughout the entire oven. Here you can see the duct work inside the wall of the oven that brings air from the top to the bottom. These slim rectangular types of ducts are called stack ducts. This oven uses <a href="https://www.amazon.com/LAMBRO-INDUSTRIES-101L-4x10x24-Aluminum/dp/B000F5UF1Y?dchild=1&keywords=stack+duct&qid=1625335386&sr=8-1&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=6c57d773f26348725930a7242d2776e1&language=en_US&ref_=as_li_ss_tl">10" wide x 3.25" deep stack ducts</a> for vertical ducting.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-INzcaceATk8/VAbrhEsLBHI/AAAAAAAABbM/fFLzXdlY0jQ/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B36.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="Powder coating oven build" border="0" height="400" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-INzcaceATk8/VAbrhEsLBHI/AAAAAAAABbM/fFLzXdlY0jQ/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B36.jpg" title="Powder coating oven build" width="297" /></a><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zvi5Vydmh-I/VAbq5unwpRI/AAAAAAAABbE/SDMtfNPzTMw/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B32.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating oven circulation duct" border="0" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zvi5Vydmh-I/VAbq5unwpRI/AAAAAAAABbE/SDMtfNPzTMw/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B32.jpg" title="powder coating oven circulation duct" width="297" /></a></div>
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This is where the air will exit the duct into the bottom of the oven:<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Kl2HhCoFfsc/VAbsM6Syu_I/AAAAAAAABbU/o0MDQoiWYSs/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B39.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating oven air cirulation" border="0" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Kl2HhCoFfsc/VAbsM6Syu_I/AAAAAAAABbU/o0MDQoiWYSs/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B39.jpg" title="powder coating oven air cirulation" width="297" /></a></div>
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This is the <b><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001H4KE1I/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B001H4KE1I&linkCode=as2&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=NUGKMU7CRVNCF2TI" target="_blank">Dayton 310cfm High-Temp Blower</a></b> that will be used on top of the oven to circulate the air:<br />
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<a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001H4KE1I/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=964a72924fa10958793bd580148ff007" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="DIY powder coating oven circulating fan convection" border="0" height="320" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-j6XfKIsMNoA/V7byPUgVFBI/AAAAAAAACtY/gVMae0ndIVUWObrV0Ogh3zcWiAonT9KMgCLcB/s320/41hFtaHPrgL.jpg" title="" width="300" /></a></div>
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-uOAnOgCD43c/VAbuCjUIklI/AAAAAAAABbg/pDIbEtvAm9w/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B71.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating oven blower" border="0" height="320" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-uOAnOgCD43c/VAbuCjUIklI/AAAAAAAABbg/pDIbEtvAm9w/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B71.jpg" title="powder coating oven blower" width="238" /></a><br />
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Here you can see how the ducting was wrapped around from the side wall to the top of the oven to the fan, and you can see the <a href="https://www.amazon.com/10x3-120s-Galv-Shortway-Stack-Elbow/dp/B000BPAVKS/ref=as_li_ss_tl?keywords=stack+duct+elbow&qid=1575546364&sr=8-4&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=9dc040bd4d7e8414077d0ef2aa48262e&language=en_US">stack duct elbow</a> partially visible on the top. The same metal studs used to build the oven frame were used to finish the ducting to the blower.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DNlsDdp5gA8/VA2FX1Rg4NI/AAAAAAAABbw/HI0waW8U-Ms/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B102.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating oven convection duct" border="0" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DNlsDdp5gA8/VA2FX1Rg4NI/AAAAAAAABbw/HI0waW8U-Ms/s320/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B102.jpg" title="powder coating oven convection duct" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KUTGPPrlaXo/VA2FYDAOKdI/AAAAAAAABb4/xQ-zfZYvBcQ/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B115.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating oven convection duct" border="0" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KUTGPPrlaXo/VA2FYDAOKdI/AAAAAAAABb4/xQ-zfZYvBcQ/s320/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B115.jpg" title="powder coating oven convection duct" width="476" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-UtC_47ustmA/VA2FYO1sc5I/AAAAAAAABb0/z6z2Crxov5I/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B116.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating oven convection duct" border="0" height="640" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-UtC_47ustmA/VA2FYO1sc5I/AAAAAAAABb0/z6z2Crxov5I/s320/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B116.jpg" title="powder coating oven convection duct" width="476" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-lMQ91zTjUL4/VA2FYzTtnEI/AAAAAAAABcE/XMW5hCrLW7g/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B118.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating oven blower duct" border="0" height="640" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-lMQ91zTjUL4/VA2FYzTtnEI/AAAAAAAABcE/XMW5hCrLW7g/s320/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B118.jpg" title="powder coating oven blower duct" width="476" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://www.amazon.com/Rutland-600-Degree-Silicone-Cartridge-10-3-Ounce/dp/B001GP3AE6/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1517932902&sr=8-4&keywords=high+temp+sealant&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=0a5594300c6f7ad2e94d45dea1d08176" target="_blank">High Temp Sealant</a> was used on the duct work to prevent the forced air from leaking into the oven frame. This sealant is rated for 600<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%;">°</span>F (315<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%;">°</span>C). The top sheet metal duct piece was riveted into place after the sealant was applied<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-bzrkXDhlgmc/VA2IVTDQBPI/AAAAAAAABcU/VscuxOi36Bg/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B120.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating oven blower duct" border="0" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-bzrkXDhlgmc/VA2IVTDQBPI/AAAAAAAABcU/VscuxOi36Bg/s400/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B120.jpg" title="powder coating oven blower duct" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Cej-3wS45ig/VA2IVSl2rHI/AAAAAAAABcY/3jCzrRb9shk/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B121.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating oven blower duct" border="0" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Cej-3wS45ig/VA2IVSl2rHI/AAAAAAAABcY/3jCzrRb9shk/s400/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B121.jpg" title="powder coating oven blower duct" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-cBzrchHI5Co/VA2IVlbpr9I/AAAAAAAABcc/HDYDm0NjEEQ/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B122.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating oven blower duct" border="0" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-cBzrchHI5Co/VA2IVlbpr9I/AAAAAAAABcc/HDYDm0NjEEQ/s400/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B122.jpg" title="powder coating oven blower duct" /></a></div>
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Here is a picture of the interior top-side of the oven where the inlet for the blower is:<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-zNCQTWLCW5E/VA2I9-VRleI/AAAAAAAABcs/-seHEpDU5cc/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B111.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating oven blower" border="0" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-zNCQTWLCW5E/VA2I9-VRleI/AAAAAAAABcs/-seHEpDU5cc/s400/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B111.jpg" title="powder coating oven blower" /></a></div>
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That completes the convection system of the oven. As you can see, the air is pulled up through the top of the oven and is ducted back down the side wall and into the bottom of the oven using rectangular steel stack ducts, which will equalize the temperature throughout the oven. This is very important when powder coating as a large oven like this with no circulating air can have temperature fluctuations of up to 50<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%;">°</span>F from the top to the bottom. <br />
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<h3>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">Lighting</span></h3>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"> </span></h3>
This oven build has three recessed lights in the ceiling. By recessing them, they will never interfere with the powder coated items inside of the oven. Recessing them does take some extra steps and a some extra parts as you can see below. If you choose not to recess them, all you would need is the ceramic light fixture and appliance bulbs. <br />
Here is a single finished light assembly before being installed on the top of the oven:<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-e_qyyjHv8OE/VA2OXlOwLrI/AAAAAAAABc8/ofr46H7c5YY/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B84.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating oven recessed lighting" border="0" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-e_qyyjHv8OE/VA2OXlOwLrI/AAAAAAAABc8/ofr46H7c5YY/s400/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B84.jpg" title="powder coating oven recessed lighting" width="478" /></a></div>
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Here are the parts needed to make each light assembly:<br />
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<a href="https://www.amazon.com/GE-Porcelain-Lampholder-Keyless-18304/dp/B002HEMXY8/ref=as_li_ss_tl?dchild=1&keywords=porcelain+light+fixture&qid=1587964240&sr=8-1&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=69d93b7a0b43203ec5c7eaaf377616d6&language=en_US" target="_blank">Porcelain Lamp-holder</a> (1 per light assembly)<br />
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<a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00002N7IM/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=664593e5cff03c8044ac103624dfe368" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="DIY Powder coat oven lighting" border="0" height="149" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-nRbmvIUQWNo/V7bxd6AwcPI/AAAAAAAACtU/pTtPFTUfkqYJJhPBv0nQ7ldEZw5DufEkgCEw/s200/61y5i7OyyKL._SL1500_.jpg" title="" width="200" /></a></div>
<img alt="" border="0" height="1" hidden="" src="https://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=powcoathecomg-20&l=as2&o=1&a=B00002N7IM" style="border: medium none; display: none; margin: 0px;" width="1" /><br />
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<a href="https://www.amazon.com/GE-Appliance-Medium-Lumens-2-Count/dp/B07MNTWRPS?dchild=1&keywords=oven+bulbs&qid=1625335513&sr=8-15&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=f2cc37e95d123b8986540cf83142ded6&language=en_US&ref_=as_li_ss_tl" target="_blank">40-watt Appliance Bulbs</a> (1 per light assembly)<br />
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<a href="https://www.amazon.com/GE-Appliance-Medium-Lumens-2-Count/dp/B07MNTWRPS?dchild=1&keywords=oven+bulbs&qid=1625335513&sr=8-15&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=f2cc37e95d123b8986540cf83142ded6&language=en_US&ref_=as_li_ss_tl"><img alt="DIY Powder coat oven lighting bulbs" border="0" height="177" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-mZuuGQyvqnE/V7bxd77gODI/AAAAAAAACtU/GunnTrz5YmMrxrPaV8ctieKH3fLPQAa6wCEw/s200/61EGDZsub8L._SL1173_.jpg" title="" width="200" /></a></div>
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<img alt="" border="0" height="1" hidden="" src="https://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=powcoathecomg-20&l=as2&o=1&a=B00006RVSO" style="border: medium none; display: none; margin: 0px;" width="1" /><br />
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<img alt="" border="0" height="1" hidden="" src="https://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=powcoathecomg-20&l=as2&o=1&a=B00BC3R994" style="border: medium none; display: none; margin: 0px;" width="1" /><br />
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/End-Cap-Round-Duct-Fitting/dp/B007ICUHQK/ref=as_li_ss_tl?keywords=6%22+end+cap+duct&qid=1558571420&s=gateway&sr=8-54&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=de9c3917260e4ef73328214a3c9b5f32&language=en_US" target="_blank">6-inch Duct Cap without crimp</a> (2 per light assembly)<br />
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<a href="https://www.amazon.com/End-Cap-Round-Duct-Fitting/dp/B007ICUHQK/ref=as_li_ss_tl?keywords=6%22+end+cap+duct&qid=1558571420&s=gateway&sr=8-54&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=de9c3917260e4ef73328214a3c9b5f32&language=en_US" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="DIY powder coat oven lighting" border="0" height="121" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-XUpujbG_7rE/V7bxdV1-_4I/AAAAAAAACtU/jCZ8GFAIweEvdH9RxiORhZzDejwhGN-BgCEw/s200/31sF5l%252BAQJL.jpg" title="" width="200" /></a></div>
<img alt="" border="0" height="1" hidden="" src="https://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=powcoathecomg-20&l=as2&o=1&a=B0085UZCMI" style="border: medium none; display: none; margin: 0px;" width="1" /><br />
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<a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0085UZCMI/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B0085UZCMI&linkCode=as2&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=BNLTGGIKSZHIS3BH"><br />
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</a> <br />
<a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0085UZCMI/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B0085UZCMI&linkCode=as2&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=BNLTGGIKSZHIS3BH"><br />
</a> <br />
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<a href="https://www.amazon.com/Lambro-246-Aluminum-Duct-Connector/dp/B000BO5BJA/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1541854599&sr=8-7&keywords=duct+connector+6%22&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=5926fbc287d0bc2be388d31fb2fae212&language=en_US" target="_blank">6-Inch Duct Flex Connector</a> (1 per light assembly)<br />
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<a href="https://www.amazon.com/Lambro-246-Aluminum-Duct-Connector/dp/B000BO5BJA/ref=as_li_ss_tl?&imprToken=b9IQFnu8uTQ8NllObFO90g&slotNum=23&ie=UTF8&qid=1541854599&sr=8-7&keywords=duct+connector+6%22&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=f2ddccdab25d399d435c2586401e6e18&language=en_US"><img alt="https://www.amazon.com/Lambro-246-Aluminum-Duct-Connector/dp/B000BO5BJA/ref=as_li_ss_tl?&imprToken=b9IQFnu8uTQ8NllObFO90g&slotNum=23&ie=UTF8&qid=1541854599&sr=8-7&keywords=duct+connector+6%22&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=f2ddccdab25d399d435c2586401e6e18&language=en_US" border="0" height="200" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wt7EhtlgOzs/V-ty7bfapKI/AAAAAAAAC2w/moSfYqvCfmE3qpu6ctxEhNQCd00HYg-ngCLcB/s200/71DV7R-EAlL._SL1500_.jpg" width="200" /></a><br />
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To construct the light assemblies:<br />
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<ul>
<li>If using the porcelain light fixture linked above, drill a ~2 1/8" hole into the center of one 6" duct cap using a <a href="https://www.amazon.com/LENOX-Tools-Bi-Metal-Arbored-Technology/dp/B004YK5D68/ref=as_li_ss_tl?dchild=1&keywords=2+1/8+hole+saw+milwaukee&qid=1587963739&sr=8-3&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=38e84613993e4d440d24f00dd34e292f&language=en_US">hole saw</a>. This hole gives you access to the wiring terminals on the back of the light fixture. These are thin duct material so it does not matter too much, but when using a hole-saw for metal, you can get the most life out of it by using a <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Forney-20857-Magic-Industrial-Cutting/dp/B003X3ZKXI/ref=as_li_ss_tl?dchild=1&keywords=tap+magic&qid=1587965823&sr=8-2&th=1&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=3d29e3faff03f761d3dd51c731696012&language=en_US">cutting fluid</a> and running running the drill with low speeds (400-600 RPM) </li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li> On this same cap, drill two screw mounting holes on either side of the previous hole (3 1/4" apart). Use porcelain fixture as a guide to mark the duct cap. A 1/4" or #8 drill bit will be sufficient for these holes.</li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li>Mount porcelain light fixture to 6" duct cap using provided hardware. </li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li>On the other non-drilled 6" duct cap, drill a hole to allow the light to pass through. The duct cap featured was drilled with a <a href="https://www.amazon.com/LENOX-Tools-Bi-Metal-Speed-Technology/dp/B001HRKA4Q/ref=as_li_ss_tl?dchild=1&keywords=4%22+hole+saw&qid=1587964971&sr=8-3&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=14cfda77dfd05effefa2d24c70ef37af&language=en_US">4" hole saw</a>. </li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li>Assemble the two duct caps on either side of the 6" duct connector.</li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li>Then frame the assembly you have made with the same steel studs that have been used throughout the oven build.</li>
</ul>
The bulbs and lamp-holder are completely capable of withstanding the 450<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%;">°</span>F temps that the oven will be operating at. Here is an exploded view model of the light assembly to help explain this more clearly:<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-j0u1qfIzFTk/Xsrn0iCggwI/AAAAAAAAHUs/YJaRtFrMgFYyzS5BA2cg7GW1DJv9P15LQCNcBGAsYHQ/s1600/Light%2BAssembly%2B2-3%2B%25282%2529.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="powder coat oven light assembly" border="0" data-original-height="946" data-original-width="1600" height="378" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-j0u1qfIzFTk/Xsrn0iCggwI/AAAAAAAAHUs/YJaRtFrMgFYyzS5BA2cg7GW1DJv9P15LQCNcBGAsYHQ/s640/Light%2BAssembly%2B2-3%2B%25282%2529.JPG" title="powder coat oven light assembly" width="640" /></a></div>
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Here is a picture of the backside of the completed assembly. <br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-tyOodMA5bZw/VA2RsYyYljI/AAAAAAAABdI/iDysvmgpF8Q/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B82.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating oven recessed lighting" border="0" height="640" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-tyOodMA5bZw/VA2RsYyYljI/AAAAAAAABdI/iDysvmgpF8Q/s400/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B82.jpg" title="powder coating oven recessed lighting" width="478" /></a></div>
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Here are the three light assemblies riveted into place. Before placing them, you will need to cutout holes for the duct caps in the ceiling sheet metal. <br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-hipei-n87kw/VA2UO_o8JaI/AAAAAAAABdU/pjtKetg1fnQ/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B124.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating oven recessed lighting" border="0" height="640" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-hipei-n87kw/VA2UO_o8JaI/AAAAAAAABdU/pjtKetg1fnQ/s400/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B124.jpg" title="powder coating oven recessed lighting" width="616" /></a></div>
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You can see the duct caps with holes cut in them placed through the sheet metal onto the light assemblies. This gives a nice finished look. The ceiling is completed now with the three recessed lights and blower fan.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jiIaRsBPfiA/VA2UuyPt4tI/AAAAAAAABdc/dbeuzQY8ogo/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B123.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating oven recessed lighting" border="0" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jiIaRsBPfiA/VA2UuyPt4tI/AAAAAAAABdc/dbeuzQY8ogo/s400/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B123.jpg" title="powder coating oven recessed lighting" width="604" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;">Insulation</span></h3>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"> </span></h3>
Every wall of the oven needs to be insulated. The insulation keeps the inside of the oven hot, and the outside of the oven cool. The point of insulation is to slow the rate of heat transfer from the inside of the oven to the outside of the oven. The rate of heat transfer will depend on the temperature differential between the inside and outside of the oven, insulation material, and thickness of insulation. Fortunately, most insulation materials are rated R-value which accounts for thickness, so that they are directly comparable. The higher the R-value, the slower the heat transfer rate, and therefore, the better the insulation. The thickness of insulation you choose will depend on how thick your oven walls are. The insulation should not be compressed within the oven walls because this reduces its insulation properties. The most common choices of insulation for a powder coating oven are mineral wool or fiberglass.<br />
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<a href="https://ebay.us/kTKB6O" target="_blank">Mineral wool insulation</a>, also referred to by the brand name Rockwool, has a higher temperature rating than fiberglass (~2000°F vs ~1000°F), is more durable, easier to work with, and usually comes at a higher price. The R-value for 3.5" mineral wool insulation is R15, while the R-value for 3.5" fiberglass ranges from R11 to R15. As you can see, their insulating properties are very comparable. The decision to choose mineral wool over fiberglass depends on a couple of factors. It holds its shape much better so cutting it and installing it is generally a cleaner and neater process than fiberglass. While fiberglass needs to be compressed to cut with a razor blade, mineral wool can be cut more like a loaf of bread with a <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Fuller-Tool-320-0100-INSULATION-Knife/dp/B076Q3B8F9/ref=as_li_ss_tl?dchild=1&keywords=mineral+wool+knife&qid=1587975776&refinements=p_85:2470955011&rnid=2470954011&rps=1&sr=8-3&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=0d4aceb9a060a7b469b330e39251eb51&language=en_US">mineral wool knife</a>. Mineral wool is considered to be more durable and longer-lasting than fiberglass. Also due to its higher temperature rating, its considered to be safer in the case of an oven fire. Mineral wool insulation can be seen in the picture below, but it was not used in this oven build due to costs.<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XqL_azHZjUM/XqadNUnj2-I/AAAAAAAAGiQ/NWmxs_eiYQc08TEi7uk7ks0lKWeF2s-9ACNcBGAsYHQ/s1600/rockwool.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XqL_azHZjUM/XqadNUnj2-I/AAAAAAAAGiQ/NWmxs_eiYQc08TEi7uk7ks0lKWeF2s-9ACNcBGAsYHQ/s640/rockwool.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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This oven build uses unfaced R13 fiberglass insulation throughout. The total area of the insulation for all the panels came out to roughly 18,204 square inches (126.4 square feet). This type of insulation is available online or at your local hardware store, and usually they sell it in bulk. You will need to put insulation in between every stud and cut the insulation to fit in any odd-sized spaces. The easiest way to cut insulation is with a sharp utility knife and a long straight edge. When working with insulation, you will want to wear full safety gear including gloves, safety goggles, dust mask or respirator, long-sleeve shirt, pants, and close-toed shoes. It is very itchy stuff and even if you are wearing all of that, you will undoubtedly still be itchy afterwards.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/--W629_4Hy5A/VA2b8kj9m3I/AAAAAAAABds/rM9KuGryDJM/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B52.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Powder coating oven insulation" border="0" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/--W629_4Hy5A/VA2b8kj9m3I/AAAAAAAABds/rM9KuGryDJM/s640/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B52.jpg" title="Powder coating oven insulation" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-UUqzNpE71k4/VA2b9jrtnuI/AAAAAAAABd0/_ejxSisoS0M/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B53.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Powder coating oven insulation" border="0" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-UUqzNpE71k4/VA2b9jrtnuI/AAAAAAAABd0/_ejxSisoS0M/s640/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B53.jpg" title="Powder coating oven insulation" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GXwnpKXqqaQ/VA2ejD-EaBI/AAAAAAAABec/IgPWReMVnNo/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B127.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Powder coating oven insulation" border="0" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GXwnpKXqqaQ/VA2ejD-EaBI/AAAAAAAABec/IgPWReMVnNo/s640/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B127.jpg" title="Powder coating oven insulation" /></a></div>
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As you can see in the above pictures, the cutouts for the recessed heating elements are not insulated. These will be the hottest parts of the oven, so of course, they will need to be insulated. This is where the oven expands outwards. With the use of individual insulation panels on the outside of the oven, everything is able to be recessed, yet still insulated. The areas of the oven that will need these insulated panels are the 4 heating elements, the duct-work on the back on the oven, and the entire topside of the oven. All the insulated panels were framed using steel studs and rivets. However, before these are installed, you will need to install the heating elements and skin the outside of the oven with sheet metal.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-PpB8rc1FwkA/VA2dYO_GeYI/AAAAAAAABeA/GucWU3BDr2k/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B66.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Powder coating oven insulation" border="0" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-PpB8rc1FwkA/VA2dYO_GeYI/AAAAAAAABeA/GucWU3BDr2k/s640/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B66.jpg" title="Powder coating oven insulation" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-KLRE9p8bFWs/VA2dZaGdzPI/AAAAAAAABeI/9hjRGWFvyVQ/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B68.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Powder coating oven insulation" border="0" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-KLRE9p8bFWs/VA2dZaGdzPI/AAAAAAAABeI/9hjRGWFvyVQ/s640/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B68.jpg" title="Powder coating oven insulation" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1VLCG0vxxSY/VA2dZYBseGI/AAAAAAAABeM/4bORL17-iBE/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B69.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Powder coating oven insulation" border="0" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1VLCG0vxxSY/VA2dZYBseGI/AAAAAAAABeM/4bORL17-iBE/s640/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B69.jpg" title="Powder coating oven insulation" /></a></div>
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<h3>
<span style="font-size: x-large;"> </span></h3>
<h3>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">Heating Elements</span></h3>
<h3>
<span style="font-size: x-large;"> </span></h3>
This oven uses four <a href="https://www.amazon.com/GE-WB44K5013-Oven-Heating-Element/dp/B003BIGD5O/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1471607741&sr=8-2-fkmr2&keywords=2000+watt+heating+element+oven&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=055bfc3c7cbbdfb5b0344f7fe69990e8"><b>2000-watt heating elements</b></a> for a total of 8000 Watts. There are a variety of oven heating elements available. Standard oven heating elements can range anywhere from 2000 Watts to 3600 Watts.<br />
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<a href="https://www.amazon.com/GE-WB44K5013-Oven-Heating-Element/dp/B003BIGD5O/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1471607741&sr=8-2-fkmr2&keywords=2000+watt+heating+element+oven&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=055bfc3c7cbbdfb5b0344f7fe69990e8"><img alt="DIY powder coating oven heating element 2000 watt" border="0" height="252" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-E26qa1kt7Qc/V7b0VkYlUYI/AAAAAAAACtw/TwdOlqb9gYA0mB44ILgk9dkW7yKwzvwEwCEw/s320/31knnI5vIdL.jpg" title="" width="320" /></a></div>
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To determine what wattage you need for your specific powder coating oven size, a general rule is that you should have 100 to 150 Watts worth of heating element for every cubic foot of interior oven space. 150 Watts per cubic foot is ideal. The interior space of this oven is ~75 cubic feet so with 8000 total Watts, that works out to about 106.5 watts per cubic feet. If you live in a colder climate, you should aim closer to 150 Watts per cubic foot. <br />
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You can also use <a href="http://www.calculator.net/btu-calculator.html?roomwidth=4&roomwidthunit=feet&roomlength=4&roomlengthunit=feet&ceilingheight=6&ceilingheightunit=feet&insulation=good&temperature=400&temperatureunit=f&calctype=heat&x=33&y=15" target="_blank">BTU calculator</a> for a ballpark estimate but it can be a little off. To use the calculator, you enter in the interior dimensions of your oven in inches, the average ambient temperature in your area, your desired temperature in <span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%;">°</span>F, and your predicted total heating element wattage. It will then tell you how long it will take for the oven to reach the desired temp based on your criteria. Just keep in mind that 100-150 Watts per cubic feet is ideal.<br />
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Below, you can see the four heating elements installed in the oven.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-B_YaDL-wwEA/VA2oTt38GUI/AAAAAAAABes/OtGGDF_nq28/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B97.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating oven heating elements" border="0" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-B_YaDL-wwEA/VA2oTt38GUI/AAAAAAAABes/OtGGDF_nq28/s640/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B97.jpg" title="powder coating oven heating elements" /></a></div>
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The rest of this oven build is located here: <b><a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2014/09/how-to-build-powder-coating-oven-part-ii.html" target="_blank">How to Build a Powder Coating Oven Part II</a></b>. If you have any questions or comments, please leave them in the comments section below.<br />
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PowderCoatGuidehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12345212251907477269noreply@blogger.com158tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6576346347573188227.post-63250262929428231122018-09-24T03:56:00.009-07:002021-07-03T11:42:59.623-07:00How to Build a Powder Coating Oven Part II<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xCr9LPDq-Dw/VAa7OoMnRNI/AAAAAAAABYo/DWyYG5W6VfQ/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2Bheader%2Bimage%2B2.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="how to build a powder coating oven diy" border="0" height="360" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xCr9LPDq-Dw/VAa7OoMnRNI/AAAAAAAABYo/DWyYG5W6VfQ/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2Bheader%2Bimage%2B2.png" title="how to build a powder coating oven diy" width="640" /></a></div>
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<b>Welcome</b> to "How to Build a Powder Coating Oven - Part II." See <b><a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2014/09/how-to-build-powder-coating-oven.html#.VYth3VI72KV" target="_blank">How to Build a Powder Coating Oven Part 1</a>.</b> In part 1, we build the oven frame, we started skinning it in sheet metal, we added lights and the convection blower, and also insulation and heating elements. I am going to pick up right were we left off. This powder coating oven build was done by KNJ Custom Coating and I want to thank them for contributing all of the information and pictures.<br />
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<h3>Oven Door</h3>
The door for this powder coating oven is constructed the same way as the rest of the oven using <a href="http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbranded-3-5-8-in-x-10-ft-25-Gauge-Galvanized-Steel-Wall-Framing-Stud-726330/202836663" target="_blank">steel studs</a> and sheet metal, using <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Rivets-Diameter-Steel-Blind-0-020-0-125/dp/B07JZD3FJP/ref=as_li_ss_tl?&imprToken=599roV2HCYhcINbVgLlMTA&slotNum=2&ie=UTF8&qid=1541850595&sr=8-4&keywords=1/8%22+rivets+steel+1000+zinc&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=b74dc68e0f7335b8588aad859f37d803&language=en_US">rivets</a><img alt="" border="0" height="1" hidden="" src="https://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=powcoathecomg-20&l=as2&o=1&a=B00M1XJR2G" style="border: medium none; display: none; margin: 0px;" width="1" /> to hold everything together. This door also features a window so you can your parts inside of the oven. A cool thing about the window is that it is built into a smaller access door so there is actually a door within a door. The small access door allows you to open it up and check the part temperature using an <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0089N2ZH6/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B0089N2ZH6&linkCode=as2&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=7K3KZNWGKZJP2E33">Infrared Thermometer</a><img alt="" border="0" height="1" hidden="" src="https://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=powcoathecomg-20&l=as2&o=1&a=B0089N2ZH6" style="border: medium none; display: none; margin: 0px;" width="1" />, if you are not using an Infrared Thermometer to check part temperature, learn why you should be, read this article: <a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2012/12/ir-thermometer.html#.VCT6-1e6PxU">Properly Curing Powder Coat with an Infrared Thermometer</a>. The small door is very small and will not let out much heat in the oven. If you opened the big door every time you wanted to check your part temperature, it would cause a drastic temperature drop in the oven because you allowed the heat to escape. This will cause fluctuations in the temperature which is the last thing you want when you are curing powder coated parts.<br />
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Here is how the frame of the door is constructed:<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-XT2wjfJYzsw/VCT8-fIal6I/AAAAAAAABfA/q_pMXQ3rkGg/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B56.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating oven door frame" border="0" height="640" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-XT2wjfJYzsw/VCT8-fIal6I/AAAAAAAABfA/q_pMXQ3rkGg/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B56.jpg" title="powder coating oven door frame" width="512" /></a></div>
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After the basic frame is constructed, the framing for the window is started, the access door was an afterthought and the framing was redone after the following 2 pictures. However these pictures give you an idea of exactly how it was framed.<br />
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Here is the finished window frame. In this shot, you can see exactly where the rivets where used to secure the steel studs together:<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-NM3_9CDhFPE/VCT9-y-QCyI/AAAAAAAABfc/GrhmetCCmus/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B62.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating oven door frame" border="0" height="640" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-NM3_9CDhFPE/VCT9-y-QCyI/AAAAAAAABfc/GrhmetCCmus/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B62.jpg" title="powder coating oven door frame" width="512" /></a></div>
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Here is the frame for the access door. As you can see, it is too large to fit into the recently built frame in the above pictures. The upper square boxed section will be used as the window and all of the other open sections will be filled with insulation.<br />
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Here is the door frame re-designed to fit the access door:<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-sMhjoeTAuYQ/VCUAzYnhwBI/AAAAAAAABfs/P20Mts05ZV4/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B241.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating oven build access door 2" border="0" height="640" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-sMhjoeTAuYQ/VCUAzYnhwBI/AAAAAAAABfs/P20Mts05ZV4/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B241.jpg" title="powder coating oven build access door 2" width="476" /></a></div>
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One side of the door was skinned in this picture and also corner braces were added to the door for extra support. Since the door will not be a part of the main oven frame and will just hang when the door is opened, it needs all the support it can get to remain square. <br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-BSg-_kLO-y0/VCUAz8HvhjI/AAAAAAAABf4/qn4rPwZd_b0/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B249.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating oven build access door 2" border="0" height="640" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-BSg-_kLO-y0/VCUAz8HvhjI/AAAAAAAABf4/qn4rPwZd_b0/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B249.jpg" title="powder coating oven build access door" width="476" /></a></div>
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A finished shot of the door framing including the access door:<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JAzoa-VTSp8/VCUA0EEYA4I/AAAAAAAABgA/CxqahZkgKts/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B250.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating oven build door" border="0" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JAzoa-VTSp8/VCUA0EEYA4I/AAAAAAAABgA/CxqahZkgKts/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B250.jpg" title="powder coating oven build door" width="476" /></a></div>
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Here you can see the dimensions of the door. A very important aspect of building this door is the angled cuts used on the sides of the door. If the access door and door frame were perfectly square, the door would not be able to open. These next 2 pictures explain how the angled cuts were used to allow the door to open. <br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4JE_WuykAAE/VCUCuP4_JPI/AAAAAAAABgY/iYzjUD6gcJw/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B265.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Powder Coating Oven Access Door Dimensions" border="0" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4JE_WuykAAE/VCUCuP4_JPI/AAAAAAAABgY/iYzjUD6gcJw/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B265.jpg" title="Powder Coating Oven Access Door Dimensions" width="476" /></a></div>
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After the access door frame is completed, it is then skinned on one side. A <a href="https://www.amazon.com/National-Hardware-N349-001-Stainless-Steel/dp/B004HGP7XS/ref=as_li_ss_tl?keywords=door+pull&qid=1575553396&sr=8-19&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=4ca141789497a510d6b0ec10c079fa56&language=en_US" target="_blank">handle</a> and <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Kitchen-Furniture-Hardware-Cabinet-Folding/dp/B07RHVGKTS/ref=as_li_ss_tl?keywords=heavy+duty+mini+hinges+steel&qid=1575553312&sr=8-24&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=e98151ccc1febbb80561750326ca8097&language=en_US" target="_blank">hinges</a> were also added and riveted in place:<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-O62QVdkncw8/VCUFo3RAt5I/AAAAAAAABgo/xH92QpfqFMs/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B266.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Powder Coating Oven Access Door" border="0" height="640" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-O62QVdkncw8/VCUFo3RAt5I/AAAAAAAABgo/xH92QpfqFMs/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B266.jpg" title="Powder Coating Oven Access Door" width="476" /></a></div>
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Then the hole for the window is cut out leaving a lip of sheet metal that extends past the stud about 1/2" on all 4 sides.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-nIiH9VyFPl8/VCUGIUn-vlI/AAAAAAAABgw/UKYGgIjEFtI/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B270.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating oven build window" border="0" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-nIiH9VyFPl8/VCUGIUn-vlI/AAAAAAAABgw/UKYGgIjEFtI/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B270.jpg" title="powder coating oven build window" width="476" /></a></div>
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Now the window installation is started. Installing the oven window takes more steps than you would think. When heated, glass and metal will expand but they will not expand exactly the same at the same temperatures. If you sealed the window directly to the metal using high-temp sealant, this would not allow for any flex and the window would likely crack due to the different expansion rates of the metal and glass. To solve this, first <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Rutland-600-Degree-Silicone-Cartridge-10-3-Ounce/dp/B001GP3AE6/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1517933353&sr=8-4&keywords=high+temp+sealant&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=b1a3c044d6d8bba430e275713fe81b2a" target="_blank">high-temp sealant</a> is added to the inside lip of sheet metal, and then an <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Midwest-Hearth-Replacement-Gasket-Woodburning/dp/B0190YY782/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1464340923&sr=8-10&keywords=fiberglass+rope+gasket&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=1d8f29c2d09cff9276282b808846b39f" target="_blank">oven window seal</a> is added to all 4 sides in strips. <br />
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High-temp sealant applied on one of 4 sides:<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-itlKdR0891s/VCUGIuYaNVI/AAAAAAAABg0/dimrWlrneyE/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B271.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Powder Coating Oven high-temp Sealant" border="0" height="640" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-itlKdR0891s/VCUGIuYaNVI/AAAAAAAABg0/dimrWlrneyE/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B271.jpg" title="Powder Coating Oven high-temp Sealant" width="476" /></a></div>
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And the oven window seal is laid down over the sealant. <br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VKAx_LbMf8I/VCULEqmVqTI/AAAAAAAABhQ/Mkb8qtiD-SY/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B275.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Powder Coating Oven Window Seal" border="0" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VKAx_LbMf8I/VCULEqmVqTI/AAAAAAAABhQ/Mkb8qtiD-SY/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B275.jpg" title="Powder Coating Oven Window Seal" width="475" /></a></div>
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Then the window is laid in place and secured with thin strips of angle iron. Each of the angle iron pieces also has a piece of oven window seal applied using the high-temp sealant. The window is now secured in place and sealed, but it still has a little room for expansion and movement due to the soft seals. The window used appears to be about 8" x 8" and for safety, I recommend tempered glass. Your local hardware store should have pieces of glass that you can buy or you can easily find it online.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4y4dXyXdqFg/VCULblrB5BI/AAAAAAAABhg/xVRO9yyswGU/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B278.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Powder Coating Oven Window" border="0" height="640" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4y4dXyXdqFg/VCULblrB5BI/AAAAAAAABhg/xVRO9yyswGU/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B278.jpg" title="Powder Coating Oven Window" width="476" /> </a></div>
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This process is repeated on the inside of the door. This way, you will have 2 sheets of glass and an air gap to keep the heat from escaping. This window is installed in reverse order of the first window. First the thin angle iron with the oven window seal applied. Then the glass is laid into place.</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-O9Wfhxj3iqc/VCUNJfcYiqI/AAAAAAAABhs/IC288o_w_iI/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B280.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-iuKOpxG1KcA/VCUNJrHGAEI/AAAAAAAABh0/_cf7fikpHmc/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B283.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="Powder Coating Oven Window" border="0" height="400" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-iuKOpxG1KcA/VCUNJrHGAEI/AAAAAAAABh0/_cf7fikpHmc/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B283.jpg" title="Powder Coating Oven Window" width="297" /></a><img alt="Powder Coating Oven Window" border="0" height="400" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-O9Wfhxj3iqc/VCUNJfcYiqI/AAAAAAAABhs/IC288o_w_iI/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B280.jpg" title="Powder Coating Oven Window" width="297" /></div>
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Then you will start work on the inside sheet metal door skin. Cut out the hole for the window leaving a lip that extends past the stud, apply the high-temp sealant and oven window seal on all 4 sides. </div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-q6ExKqSJ6bE/VCUNJs7KNJI/AAAAAAAABhw/Ey-6qdlg4UE/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B286.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Powder Coating Oven Window Seal" border="0" height="400" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-q6ExKqSJ6bE/VCUNJs7KNJI/AAAAAAAABhw/Ey-6qdlg4UE/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B286.jpg" title="Powder Coating Oven Window Seal" width="297" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://www.amazon.com/Johns-Manville-Kraft-faced-Fiberglass-Insulation/dp/B00L8TA93K/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1464341212&sr=8-1&keywords=r13+fiberglass+insulation&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=a224703e0421128f9efe26000413ae9e" target="_blank">Fiberglass insulation</a> is then added inside of the door and the inside door skin is riveted into place. Insulation can be cut by a utility knife, just use a straight edge like a 2x4 laid down on the insulation as a guide. When working with fiberglass, make sure to cover all of your skin up, wear a dust mask, gloves, and safety goggles. As for the sheet metal, you can either have it cut by your sheet metal supplier to your specifications or you can make the cuts yourselves. All cuts in this oven build (except for the large sheets) were cut using a <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-4000-4-34-Variable-Rotary/dp/B00LUU2XFO/ref=as_li_ss_tl?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00LUU2XFO&pd_rd_r=effd0149-b4d3-46eb-89c9-f5991c9496fe&pd_rd_w=bd5Xi&pd_rd_wg=t3VnV&pf_rd_p=49740592-2805-416d-896c-b825ad91c2cf&pf_rd_r=17R2AK3NTFTH4QX4ZYN2&psc=1&refRID=17R2AK3NTFTH4QX4ZYN2&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=2f9bdf0e379fb8df940943f7e74be869&language=en_US" target="_blank">Dremel</a> with a <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004UDH9/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00004UDH9&linkCode=as2&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=RSDQD2TSLY2UA6U2" target="_blank">reinforced cut-off wheel</a>. <br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qWhqDkUVoBo/VCUOcM4s8_I/AAAAAAAABiQ/ZKjB8GrQTyk/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B289.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Powder Coating Oven Window Insulation" border="0" height="400" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qWhqDkUVoBo/VCUOcM4s8_I/AAAAAAAABiQ/ZKjB8GrQTyk/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B289.jpg" title="Powder Coating Oven Window Insulation" width="296" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-NB6hJr1B2P8/VCUOb1hBtBI/AAAAAAAABiI/7CyBR1ScgIo/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B291.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="Powder Coating Oven Window Insulation" border="0" height="400" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-NB6hJr1B2P8/VCUOb1hBtBI/AAAAAAAABiI/7CyBR1ScgIo/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B291.jpg" title="Powder Coating Oven Window Insulation" width="296" /></a><br />
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The access door is now completed and can be set aside. The main door-frame is then insulated and the inside sheet metal skin is installed and riveted into place.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-FpmMXZW6Hgg/VCUSeVis7wI/AAAAAAAABis/rVL5IuZTbu4/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B252.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Powder Coating Oven Door Insulation" border="0" height="400" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-FpmMXZW6Hgg/VCUSeVis7wI/AAAAAAAABis/rVL5IuZTbu4/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B252.jpg" title="Powder Coating Oven Door Insulation" width="297" /></a></div>
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-UcfAHiQ4oI0/VCUSeS1qlRI/AAAAAAAABiw/S6CzZDjtq-8/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B253.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="Powder Coating Oven Door Insulation" border="0" height="400" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-UcfAHiQ4oI0/VCUSeS1qlRI/AAAAAAAABiw/S6CzZDjtq-8/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B253.jpg" title="Powder Coating Oven Door Insulation" width="297" /></a><br />
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<img alt="" border="0" height="1" hidden="" src="//ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=powcoathecomg-20&l=li3&o=1&a=B00CJDOS72" style="border: medium none; display: none; margin: 0px;" width="1" /><br />
<br />Before the oven door is installed, the front facing of the ovens studs is finished off with strips of sheet metal so there is a smooth surface. This could have been avoided if steel framing tracks were around the front of the oven instead of conventional steel studs as the framing tracks have a smooth surface.. Then a tadpole gasket is installed around the perimeter of the door opening and riveted into place. A <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CJDOS72/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00CJDOS72&linkCode=as2&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=4MMOG67Y6CSUEQPH">tadpole gasket</a> is used specifically for high heat environments, and can withstand more than 1000 °F (538 °C). </p><p><br />
Here are the steel sheet metal strips being installed:<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Ys0jJ3TN3OA/VCUZJDyKh2I/AAAAAAAABjM/99AMYDDhk7o/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B150.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Powder Coating Oven Build" border="0" height="640" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Ys0jJ3TN3OA/VCUZJDyKh2I/AAAAAAAABjM/99AMYDDhk7o/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B150.jpg" title="Powder Coating Oven Build" width="476" /></a></div>
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Then, the tadpole gasket is installed in one continuous loop all the way around the front of the oven:<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4QlmDrfdbb0/VCUZJGSisPI/AAAAAAAABjI/YKEy-DRr3U4/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B248.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Powder Coating Oven Door Gasket" border="0" height="640" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4QlmDrfdbb0/VCUZJGSisPI/AAAAAAAABjI/YKEy-DRr3U4/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B248.jpg" title="Powder Coating Oven Door Gasket" width="476" /></a></div>
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<img alt="" border="0" height="1" hidden="" src="https://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=powcoathecomg-20&l=as2&o=1&a=B00CJDOS72" style="border: medium none; display: none; margin: 0px;" width="1" /><br />
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The access door is then installed into the main door. You can see that the access door uses two <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000CBIEA/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B0000CBIEA&linkCode=as2&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=RCSN2WPSVNTVEJAP" target="_blank">slide latches</a> to keep it latched in place. The main door is installed using four <a href="https://www.amazon.com/National-Hardware-N342-543-Hinge-Stainless/dp/B000OD152K/ref=as_li_ss_tl?keywords=steel+hinge+heavy+duty&qid=1575553756&sr=8-29&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=fae202b1015faa86664f44e4c6111a77&language=en_US" target="_blank">door hinges</a>. While it was not done on this oven build, it is beneficial to reinforce the area that the door hinges mount to with <a href="https://www.amazon.com/National-Hardware-N215-483-4060BC-Solid/dp/B002B7Q1XU?dchild=1&keywords=steel+angle&qid=1625336433&sr=8-3&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=4bd004355613388e0b515a14f3fbd81c&language=en_US&ref_=as_li_ss_tl">steel angle</a> to prevent the door from sagging when it is opened. <br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CKQTylc0fOM/VCUOcIYTQNI/AAAAAAAABiM/FQcu_S5utJ4/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B293.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Powder Coating Oven Door" border="0" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CKQTylc0fOM/VCUOcIYTQNI/AAAAAAAABiM/FQcu_S5utJ4/s640/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B293.jpg" title="Powder Coating Oven Door" width="473" /> </a></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-S3HUuYozm9E/VCUOcgEoalI/AAAAAAAABig/sHfeGS8dymE/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B295.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Powder Coating Oven Door" border="0" height="640" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-S3HUuYozm9E/VCUOcgEoalI/AAAAAAAABig/sHfeGS8dymE/s640/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B295.jpg" title="Powder Coating Oven Door" width="475" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4AZmAI87nw4/XekLdp7toxI/AAAAAAAAE8k/z2pykKK9-ykUFJSTU1mPeCtDTjZMZG2ugCNcBGAsYHQ/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B2562.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1012" data-original-width="673" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4AZmAI87nw4/XekLdp7toxI/AAAAAAAAE8k/z2pykKK9-ykUFJSTU1mPeCtDTjZMZG2ugCNcBGAsYHQ/s640/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B2562.JPG" width="424" /></a></div>
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004K5YW0K/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=c81ef5cf91cdc0f2c1bbb67bfb7f9b5c" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="diy powder coating oven toggle clamp latch door" border="0" height="200" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-pT4V-oa_760/V7b5mzRqm_I/AAAAAAAACuI/ApORQm5D0VAZhBqxXrgUb-vj0RDlwYqWgCEw/s200/71K0yTVJIFL._SL1500_.jpg" title="" width="168" /></a><br />
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The finishing touches on the door are two of these <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004K5YW0K/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B004K5YW0K&linkCode=as2&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=6LIFMBHSLMRKW4RI" target="_blank">Powertec Latch-action Toggle Clamps</a>. These will keep the door compressed against the door gasket to prevent heat from eascaping.
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<img alt="" border="0" height="1" hidden="" src="https://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=powcoathecomg-20&l=as2&o=1&a=B004K5YW0K" style="border: medium none; display: none; margin: 0px;" width="1" /><br />
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That wraps up the build of the powder coating oven door. As you can see, a lot of work went into this particular door to have all the features that the builder wanted. Another method for installing an access door with a window, into the powder coating oven door, is a bit of a shortcut compared to this. It does not look as quite as nice, but it does save some money and construction. You could use an ordinary household oven door in place of building your own. Most oven doors already have a window installed and it is easy to add hinges to it. Here is an example: (credit for this idea goes to the user Duke46 of <a href="https://powder365.com/forums/">Powder365.com</a>).<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HsBTERhosfQ/VCUbhQHOXrI/AAAAAAAABjg/2IbFDzCkWbY/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Baccess%2Bdoor.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="DIY Powder Coating Oven Door" border="0" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HsBTERhosfQ/VCUbhQHOXrI/AAAAAAAABjg/2IbFDzCkWbY/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Baccess%2Bdoor.JPG" title="DIY Powder Coating Oven Door" width="640" /></a></div>
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<img alt="" border="0" height="1" hidden="" src="https://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=powcoathecomg-20&l=as2&o=1&a=B00ADHNSGI" style="border: medium none; display: none; margin: 0px;" width="1" /><br />
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<h3>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">Control Box</span></h3>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-paCUNC5-lJ4/V7b6whJhBaI/AAAAAAAACuU/bIczBIlNX9oZoAam9wwUDx9k1k0NlYaFwCLcB/s1600/SYL1.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="281" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-paCUNC5-lJ4/V7b6whJhBaI/AAAAAAAACuU/bIczBIlNX9oZoAam9wwUDx9k1k0NlYaFwCLcB/s320/SYL1.jpg" width="320" /></a>The heating element installation was shown in <a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2014/09/how-to-build-powder-coating-oven.html#.V0gXBL61iW9">Part 1</a> of this oven build. This oven uses 4 2000-watt heating elements. You will need a way to control the heating elements. This is done by building (or buying) a control box. You can always salvage the control panel from an existing household oven and figure out how to wire it up to control multiple heating elements but if you are building your own powder coating oven and have already come this far, then you should build your own control box. The best thing about building your own is the use of a PID oven controller. Your standard household oven controls the heating element using an On/Off controller. Meaning that if you set your oven to 400 °F (204.4 °C), ideally it would keep the elements on until it reaches that temperature and then turn them on and off to maintain it. Notice I said "ideally". Your standard household oven will not cycle the elements on and off quickly enough to maintain an accurate temperature. If you set your temperature to 400 °F, it may turn the elements on until 425 °F is reached and then turn them off. Once the oven drops to 375 °F, it will turn them on again. You can see there is a temperature swing of 50 °F using this method. If you want properly cured powder coated parts, this is not ideal at all. A PID controller supplies a 0-100% signal to the heating elements. Using the PID controller, you will tune your powder coating oven so that a certain percentage will equal 400 °F, and it will maintain that signal throughout the curing process so you have a constant 400 °F. Another thing I want to point out is that not all PID controllers are created equal. There are lots of PID controllers on eBay and Amazon that come with poor instructions and die very quickly. It is important to get a high quality PID controller. Trusted brands for PID controllers are <a href="http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=page&id=19" target="_blank">Auber</a> or Watlow, Watlow being the higher quality unit.<br />
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<h4>
<span style="font-size: large;">Solid State Relay or Contactor?</span></h4>
A PID controller cannot handle the amperage needed to control the heating elements directly so instead, a Solid State Relay (SSR), or a Contactor is used in combination with the PID controller. Whether you decide to use a contractor or an SSR is a personal decision but for whichever one you choose, people generally swear by one or the other. When purchasing your PID controller, you must select one that is either compatible with a SSR or contactor. Multiple SSR's or contactors can be used depending on how many total watts are required for your heating elements. This oven build uses 2 contactors, each one operating 2 heating elements, totaling 4 heating elements. If using a solid state relay, it is very important to order a high quality unit or read reviews about the specific item you are ordering as there are many knock-off's out there that burn up quickly. Fotek, Watlow & Omega are all good brands however there are many counterfeit Fotek SSR's on eBay and Amazon. Another step that must be taken for the SSR is cooling. A SSR specific <a href="https://www.amazon.com/uxcell%C2%AE-Replacement-Single-phase-Solid-State/dp/B00857T4VG/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1474995382&sr=8-9&keywords=ssr+heatsink&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=6063ba8a6066041b4702338af9a94f1b">heatsink</a> should be installed on the SSR with <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Arctic-Silver-AS5-3-5G-Thermal-Paste/dp/B000OGX5AM/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1474990864&sr=8-1&keywords=arctic+silver&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=88f597a9956c05fef7a6bd44e556d69a">thermal paste</a> and you can also go a step further and use a heatsink with a fan mounted on it, like a CPU cooler. If you use a heatsink/fan combination, the fan will operate with DC power, so to wire it up in your control box you will also need to incorporate an AC to DC converter board. A CPU cooler was not made to mount to a SSR but you can adapt them by drilling holes in the heatsink and mounting the SSR to it. If you decide to use a contactor, the cycle time must be increased in the PID controllers settings, otherwise the life of the contactor will be significantly shortened. <br />
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This is the finished control box for this particular oven build: <br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-UXgp2mq2Y04/VCUfHx72YTI/AAAAAAAABjs/KV32_LSs8eE/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B307.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating oven build control box" border="0" height="640" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-UXgp2mq2Y04/VCUfHx72YTI/AAAAAAAABjs/KV32_LSs8eE/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B307.jpg" title="powder coating oven build control box" width="476" /></a></div>
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As you can see, it is very well done and has controls for everything installed in the oven. The exact equipment used to build this control box were not mentioned by the builder but I will put together a list of similar equipment below:<br />
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<a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005UPA10Y/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B005UPA10Y&linkCode=as2&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=B2P3FM3W6UHTYHSF" target="_blank">Metal Electrical Box</a><br />
Auber PID Controller - <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Temperature-Controller-Alarm-Outputs-output/dp/B01MDQE0IX/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1500521755&sr=8-1&keywords=auber+syl-2342&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=7f02896e5ddc9837d86860f141e55ac7">SYL-2342</a> if using a Contactor, or <a href="http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=106">SYL-2362</a> if using a Solid State Relay <br />
<a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008KV65MS/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B008KV65MS&linkCode=as2&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=TTUTU3ROHRTTGFAV" target="_blank">Inkbird IDT-E2RH or Sestos B2E 110-220v Timer</a> (upper left hand corner)<br />
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/Uxcell-a15110200ux0132-Indicator-Signal-AD16-22DS/dp/B01ENZ1CKE/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1500521989&sr=8-2&keywords=led+indicator+pilot+light&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=136873ef21b9bc952ff4480ac3b38cac">4 Green Lights</a><br />
<a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00N3WNAX6/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00N3WNAX6&linkCode=as2&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=PTGPLM45VFY4T6KT">2 Red Led Buzzer Alarms</a><br />
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/Heavy-Duty-Toggle-Switch-SPST/dp/B0002ZPBRA/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1474998815&sr=8-3&keywords=toggle+switch&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=22fedfa1a0dd754515d9a63671ec972a" target="_blank">4 Toggle Switches</a><br />
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You don't have to make your box identical to this one, but using the links above will give you an idea of what type of parts you will need and where to purchase them. The builder did not go into wiring schematics inside of the box so unfortunately, that will not be discussed in this article. There is tons of information about how to wire the control box and it is just a Google search away. A great place to help you select parts and wire your control box is the <a href="http://forum.caswellplating.com/forum/powder-coating-questions/oven-building-forum">Caswell Plating Oven Building Forums</a>, specifically this <a href="http://forum.caswellplating.com/forum/powder-coating-questions/oven-building-forum/11867-oven-controls-build">thread</a>. Something to keep in mind is that you are dealing with AC electrical wiring which can kill you or burn your garage down, so please take this part of the oven build very seriously and do adequate research.<br />
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<h4>
<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Control Box Kit with Included Wiring Diagram</b></span></h4>
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These options are more expensive than piecing together your own control box but the benefit is that when you purchase one of these kits, a wiring diagram that takes the guess work out of it. Auber instruments has put together several control box kits that you assemble yourself. There are two wattage classes available: up to 12,000 watts and up to 7,200 watts. The 12,000 watt kit would be plenty for this oven build featured in this article. The 7200 watt kit would not be able to handle the four 2000 watt heating elements mentioned in this specific oven build, but if you were building a slightly smaller oven or an oven with fewer or smaller heating elements, this would be a great option. The kits include just about everything you need for the oven control box and it includes a large heat sink to keep the solid state relay cool.<br />
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Two newer kits are available that have a fan and light controller, however, your fan and light must have a 3 prong plug so that they can be plugged into the top of the box. If you would prefer to hard-wire your fan and lights into the box, it would be cheaper and cleaner to get one of the basic oven controller kits and add your own wiring and switches for fan and light control. Assembly is required. Click the links below for more info.<br />
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<a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073X1CCY1//ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=3ff31462a764b5d326ff3725207b3ccd"><b>12,000 watt Oven Controller Kit with Light & Fan Control</b></a><br />
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073X1SNX4//ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=3bb6f9b43e19361798843943d4e0f3b6"><b>12,000 watt Oven Controller Kit </b></a><br />
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073WZZHXR//ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=8ed39982290a8db63c3f7793e260e4b4"><b>7,200 watt Oven Controller Kit with Light & Fan Control</b></a><br />
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XZZJ5TP/ref=as_li_ss_tl?&imprToken=QS81UDMTWF0RzO8ipVANPA&slotNum=21&ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=6555c09a9c96d7efe23d9e908415158d"><b>7,200 watt Oven Controller Kit</b></a><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073X1CCY1//ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=2cd32dfcd705b270950041f0a732a54d" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="powder coating oven control box kit" border="0" data-original-height="1500" data-original-width="1325" height="400" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-1_cLOtv9oO4/WXAhF2_hmVI/AAAAAAAADDE/crDzxHLuVIMtLYWc-9RQfLt36VriKBHfwCLcBGAs/s400/poweder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bcontroller%2Bkit%2Bbox.jpg" title="powder coating oven control box kit" width="352" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073X1CCY1//ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=2cd32dfcd705b270950041f0a732a54d">12,000 watt Oven Controller with Fan and Light Control</a></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073X1CCY1//ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=2cd32dfcd705b270950041f0a732a54d"><br />
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When installing the control box on the oven, it is a good idea to use standoffs to space it away from the oven a little bit. If you install it directly on the oven, it can cause the electronics in the control box to heat up and kill them prematurely. A 1/2" air gap between the control box and powder coating oven is enough to keep the box cool.<br />
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<h3>
Thermocouple</h3>
<h3>
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The powder coating oven uses a <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00899A4LY/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00899A4LY&linkCode=as2&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=JRSZ2VJ2UVVFVQB5" target="_blank">thermocouple</a> which reads the temperature of the oven and connects to the PID controller. The PID controller has to know what the temperature is inside of the oven in order to regulate it. Considering every component of this oven is recessed, of course the thermocouple is too.<br />
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<a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00899A4LY/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=656e4301cfca95a77ca44b357de87436" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating oven thermocouple temperature sensor" border="0" height="200" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bx2x0aIXP8c/V7b5m3E8XBI/AAAAAAAACuE/itVsU6sjJHYluIqBQsUfEMb2QO2aYUAEQCEw/s200/51MOyqJ6JmL._SL1100_.jpg" title="" width="200" /></a></div>
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A box will be constructed to house the thermocouple recessed inside of the wall. Here you will see how a piece of sheet metal is transformed into a professional looking product: <img alt="" border="0" height="1" hidden="" src="https://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=powcoathecomg-20&l=as2&o=1&a=B00899A4LY" style="border: medium none; display: none; margin: 0px;" width="1" /><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-9QLyo40-BWw/VCU7Dc2DTzI/AAAAAAAABmo/QbfP4eHG_JE/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B164.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Powder Coating Oven Thermocouple Housing" border="0" height="400" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-9QLyo40-BWw/VCU7Dc2DTzI/AAAAAAAABmo/QbfP4eHG_JE/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B164.jpg" title="Powder Coating Oven Thermocouple Housing" width="296" /></a></div>
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-a1A5aSP2sMY/VCU7Dj1n9bI/AAAAAAAABmw/dA0B0n6v7zQ/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B165.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="Powder Coating Oven Thermocouple Housing" border="0" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-a1A5aSP2sMY/VCU7Dj1n9bI/AAAAAAAABmw/dA0B0n6v7zQ/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B165.jpg" title="Powder Coating Oven Thermocouple Housing" width="297" /></a><br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-UjGZ9Tegdx0/VCU7DvoMxBI/AAAAAAAABms/aVepTcZA6a0/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B168.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Powder Coating Oven Thermocouple Housing" border="0" height="400" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-UjGZ9Tegdx0/VCU7DvoMxBI/AAAAAAAABms/aVepTcZA6a0/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B168.jpg" title="Powder Coating Oven Thermocouple Housing" width="297" /></a></div>
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-mKbifycqQqM/VCU7EeNzBUI/AAAAAAAABm8/sHbb9ayuUJE/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B169.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="Powder Coating Oven Thermocouple Housing" border="0" height="400" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-mKbifycqQqM/VCU7EeNzBUI/AAAAAAAABm8/sHbb9ayuUJE/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B169.jpg" title="Powder Coating Oven Thermocouple Housing" width="297" /></a><br />
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<br /> And here is the thermocouple installed:<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Mi1kA9cXxHw/VCU7Ex0ufBI/AAAAAAAABnM/p5hwuEkZaLc/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B176.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Powder Coating Oven Thermocouple Housing" border="0" height="640" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Mi1kA9cXxHw/VCU7Ex0ufBI/AAAAAAAABnM/p5hwuEkZaLc/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B176.jpg" title="powder coating oven thermocouple" width="476" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2WGRmwXrqkE/VCU7EzmRAoI/AAAAAAAABnE/O4Nk8VZ6s_s/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B177.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Powder Coating Oven Thermocouple Location" border="0" height="640" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2WGRmwXrqkE/VCU7EzmRAoI/AAAAAAAABnE/O4Nk8VZ6s_s/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B177.jpg" title="Powder Coating Oven Thermocouple Location" width="476" /></a></div>
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<h3>
Wiring, Conduit, and Finishing Touches </h3>
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Now that we have the control box and the heating elements installed, we need to wire them together. <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001ALN0JG/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B001ALN0JG&linkCode=as2&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=LXYGGBR7CXXQ7VRQ" target="_blank">14 gauge high-temp wire</a> to connect to the individual components and pass through the wall. Once the wire is passed through the wall and is on the outside of the oven, you can switch to normal wiring which is much cheaper. <br />
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<a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001ALN0JG/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=5c314bb8077bd25066c3338b1033a55e"><img alt="DIY POWDER COATING OVEN - High temperature wire" border="0" height="200" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-CBS7axUutSc/V7b5mov4E6I/AAAAAAAACuA/4nDmhzPhbLwY1ESKdGhWQjpAl3_EIevpQCEw/s200/31pwdUy6LuL.jpg" title="" width="200" /></a></div>
The wiring in this oven build has to travel from the control box to the heating elements, lights, fan, and thermocouple. The wiring passes through the oven wall to and is run on the outside through metal conduit and fittings. When wiring the powder coating oven, you must use high-temp wire anytime you are wiring inside of the oven walls. This oven uses <br />
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Here you can see the layout of the 4 recessed heating elements along with the insulated panels mounted behind them.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-irS0pZhpEO4/VCUwMSqC47I/AAAAAAAABj8/mMzvlAVE4eg/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B204.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating oven heating elements" border="0" height="640" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-irS0pZhpEO4/VCUwMSqC47I/AAAAAAAABj8/mMzvlAVE4eg/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B204.jpg" title="powder coating oven heating elements" width="475" /></a></div>
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Some elements will come with the wiring terminals needed to connect your wires to them. In the case that your heating elements do not come with them or if you are salvaging a heating element from a household oven, you can use a <a href="https://www.amazon.com/16-14-High-Temperature-Ring-Terminals-Stud/dp/B00NVCZUYK/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1517933859&sr=8-5&keywords=high+temperature+ring+terminals&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=47a940fbe5bc0deb50bb4ddddda8f6de" target="_blank">non-insulated ring terminal</a> crimped on the wire and screw it into the hole on the heating element connector. Very similar to this picture:<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GfOb66-rbbs/VCUxlfyHrXI/AAAAAAAABkI/j3Tlv9ENcWU/s1600/how-to-repair-an-oven-9.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating oven heating element wiring" border="0" height="250" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GfOb66-rbbs/VCUxlfyHrXI/AAAAAAAABkI/j3Tlv9ENcWU/s1600/how-to-repair-an-oven-9.jpg" title="powder coating oven heating element wiring" width="400" /></a></div>
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After the high-temp wire is connected to the elements, the wire passes through the insulation panel and out of the side, drilling holes were necessary. Whenever a wire passes through the sheet metal, you will need to use a bulkhead fitting around the hole to prevent the wire insulation from being cut by the sharp sheet metal. At the wire exit point from the insulation panel, a <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000VYK7IU/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B000VYK7IU&linkCode=as2&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=BTFVKU6HE5L7UHAG" target="_blank">metal conduit fitting</a> is used and then it travels through rigid metal conduit using 90 degree fittings until it reaches the control box.<br />
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Here you can see the metal conduit fittings and the wire passing through them:<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-1sttMmTQ2rg/VCU0hlyY37I/AAAAAAAABkY/A3_ZHjRbH2k/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B210.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating oven wiring and insulation" border="0" height="400" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-1sttMmTQ2rg/VCU0hlyY37I/AAAAAAAABkY/A3_ZHjRbH2k/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B210.jpg" title="powder coating oven wiring" width="297" /></a></div>
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-A662U83RRv4/VCU0hHkbyvI/AAAAAAAABkU/qWEXEbQ5ikY/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B208.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating oven wiring" border="0" height="400" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-A662U83RRv4/VCU0hHkbyvI/AAAAAAAABkU/qWEXEbQ5ikY/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B208.jpg" title="powder coating oven wiring" width="297" /></a><br />
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The conduit travels from the left oven wall heating element to the back heating element, then to the right oven wall heating element and then up to the control box. Also you can see now that the wiring is done, that the exterior of the oven has been skinned in 20 gauge sheet metal, the insulation has been installed into each of the insulation panels on the outside of the oven and the insulation panels have also been skinned in sheet metal.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-g41hnjUEpAY/VCU0hmKndHI/AAAAAAAABkc/cYvgG7hYzNM/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B211.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating oven build wiring conduit" border="0" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-g41hnjUEpAY/VCU0hmKndHI/AAAAAAAABkc/cYvgG7hYzNM/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B211.jpg" title="powder coating oven build wiring conduit" width="297" /></a></div>
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-L84ZvVl-k0c/VCU0iXgg2UI/AAAAAAAABko/ZaEZkOFAVLQ/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B219.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating oven build wiring conduit" border="0" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-L84ZvVl-k0c/VCU0iXgg2UI/AAAAAAAABko/ZaEZkOFAVLQ/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B219.jpg" title="powder coating oven build wiring conduit" width="297" /></a><br />
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This is the wiring on the right side of the oven, it passes around from the rear heating element<br />
insulation panel to the left wall, through conduit, then through the convection duct insulation panel, the last bit of wiring from the right heating element is added to the bundle, then up to the control panel. <br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-eeOBNRYQyyQ/VCU2mItDxhI/AAAAAAAABlM/8JVOfqm8yDY/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B220.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating oven build wiring" border="0" height="400" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-eeOBNRYQyyQ/VCU2mItDxhI/AAAAAAAABlM/8JVOfqm8yDY/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B220.jpg" title="powder coating oven build wiring" width="297" /></a></div>
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-xeHM4FglZsA/VCU2mBE8PyI/AAAAAAAABlQ/ojOhP8SnSrM/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B223.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating oven build wiring control box" border="0" height="400" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-xeHM4FglZsA/VCU2mBE8PyI/AAAAAAAABlQ/ojOhP8SnSrM/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B223.jpg" title="powder coating oven build wiring" width="297" /></a><br />
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Then the panels are insulated:<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-VRBctUp3jVw/VCU2mFB7JDI/AAAAAAAABlI/DGTvknK3hBo/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B232.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating oven build wiring" border="0" height="640" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-VRBctUp3jVw/VCU2mFB7JDI/AAAAAAAABlI/DGTvknK3hBo/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B232.jpg" title="powder coating oven build wiring" width="476" /></a></div>
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These are the metal conduit runs for the lights and the convection blower:<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-WF2nQPFl1O0/VCU3vaNnMtI/AAAAAAAABlo/O1aanDDgXTQ/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B234.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating oven build high temp wiring" border="0" height="640" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-WF2nQPFl1O0/VCU3vaNnMtI/AAAAAAAABlo/O1aanDDgXTQ/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B234.jpg" title="powder coating oven build high temp wiring" width="476" /></a></div>
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Everything is now skinned in sheet metal except for the top, it has come a long way since that metal stud frame in <a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2014/09/how-to-build-powder-coating-oven.html#.V0gXBL61iW9">Part 1</a>. <br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-9Q9vhFLmbJY/VCU3vSbFddI/AAAAAAAABls/sWfLfvvUPjs/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B255.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating oven build control panel" border="0" height="640" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-9Q9vhFLmbJY/VCU3vSbFddI/AAAAAAAABls/sWfLfvvUPjs/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B255.jpg" title="powder coating oven build control panel" width="476" /></a></div>
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This is the exterior sheet metal for the top of the oven with cutouts for the lighting and convection blower:<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-E-qun9snR7s/VCU4iQHMZ9I/AAAAAAAABl8/3x0Q_isAmZI/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B259.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating oven sheet metal" border="0" height="400" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-E-qun9snR7s/VCU4iQHMZ9I/AAAAAAAABl8/3x0Q_isAmZI/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B259.jpg" title="powder coating oven sheet metal" width="296" /></a></div>
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CEVGrEEytfg/VCU4xnIacdI/AAAAAAAABmE/W_1YWJXWNWE/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B260.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating oven lighting" border="0" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CEVGrEEytfg/VCU4xnIacdI/AAAAAAAABmE/W_1YWJXWNWE/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B260.jpg" title="powder coating oven lighitng" width="297" /></a><br />
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Insulation panels are made for the top of the oven using steel studs, you can also see the sheet metal skin for the insulation boxes with <a href="http://www.amazon.com/52171-4E-Pre-Galvanized-Eccentric-Knockouts/dp/B000HEFCKC/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1411725806&sr=8-6&keywords=electrical+box" target="_blank">electrical boxes</a> used to connect the wiring to the lights:<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MkrjLTIRgLs/VCU5ZilPyfI/AAAAAAAABmQ/sGnaT4f2mcY/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B298.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating oven top" border="0" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MkrjLTIRgLs/VCU5ZilPyfI/AAAAAAAABmQ/sGnaT4f2mcY/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B298.jpg" title="powder coating oven top" width="297" /></a></div>
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qiOffvfoUyQ/VCU5Z6AVRRI/AAAAAAAABmU/XB85sK3kt2A/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B299.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating oven junction box" border="0" height="400" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qiOffvfoUyQ/VCU5Z6AVRRI/AAAAAAAABmU/XB85sK3kt2A/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B299.jpg" title="powder coating oven junction box" width="297" /></a><br />
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The top insulation panels are all insulated and lighting electrical boxes and are installed and riveted into place: <br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-guw3EnNtwqI/VCU5ZrP2JMI/AAAAAAAABmM/7pzu1zffHc0/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B300.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating oven insulation" border="0" height="640" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-guw3EnNtwqI/VCU5ZrP2JMI/AAAAAAAABmM/7pzu1zffHc0/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B300.jpg" title="powder coating oven insulation" width="476" /></a></div>
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From here the last insulation panel on the top is skinned in sheet metal.<br />
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<h3>
The Finished Product</h3>
Let there be light!<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-rJt6zl5yJto/VCU9pRjuP9I/AAAAAAAABng/STyHNcU5rXE/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B302.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating oven lighting" border="0" height="640" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-rJt6zl5yJto/VCU9pRjuP9I/AAAAAAAABng/STyHNcU5rXE/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B302.jpg" title="powder coating oven lighting" width="476" /></a></div>
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A view through the access door:<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-K0gl6BJOFNU/VCU9pigNSvI/AAAAAAAABno/FqhgkQJR8WE/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B304.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating oven lighting" border="0" height="640" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-K0gl6BJOFNU/VCU9pigNSvI/AAAAAAAABno/FqhgkQJR8WE/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B304.jpg" title="powder coating oven lighting" width="476" /></a></div>
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Heating elements work:<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-K8T0NCdVPlQ/VCU9qHIyT5I/AAAAAAAABnw/GKgszj-gKGU/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B306.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating oven build heating elements" border="0" height="640" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-K8T0NCdVPlQ/VCU9qHIyT5I/AAAAAAAABnw/GKgszj-gKGU/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B306.jpg" title="powder coating oven build heating elements" width="475" /></a></div>
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Control panel all lit up:<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-mriRqrrcUvE/VCU_ErwQJGI/AAAAAAAABoA/SWocNkhLjJ0/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B313.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating oven control panel" border="0" height="640" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-mriRqrrcUvE/VCU_ErwQJGI/AAAAAAAABoA/SWocNkhLjJ0/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B313.jpg" title="powder coating oven control panel" width="476" /></a></div>
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The complete powder coating oven:<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5Qb9dEAuLg0/VCU9pCr4UlI/AAAAAAAABnc/PTihek4-SH0/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B2562.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="how to build a powder coating oven" border="0" height="640" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5Qb9dEAuLg0/VCU9pCr4UlI/AAAAAAAABnc/PTihek4-SH0/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B2562.JPG" title="how to build a powder coating oven" width="424" /></a></div>
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So the powder coating oven build is now done. The builder of this oven at KNJ Custom Coating can now powder coat anything that will fit inside of this beautiful 6.5' tall x 3.4' deep x 3.4' wide powder coating oven. After the PID is tuned using the provided instructions, it is ready to go. The oven reaches 400 degrees is just under 20 minutes and the exterior sheet metal remains cool to the touch.<br />
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<br />
I want to thank you for reading through this powder coating oven build. I hope you see that you can also build your own large powder coating oven and I really hope that this article and <b><a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2014/09/how-to-build-powder-coating-oven.html#.VYth3VI72KV" target="_blank">How to Build a Powder Coating Oven Part 1</a></b> help you achieve it.<br />
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<b>If you enjoyed this article, let me know, You can leave a comment below, or like Powder Coating: The Complete Guide on Facebook, Twitter, or Goolge+ or subscribe for email updates using the links in the upper right hand corner of the site. Stay tuned for the next article. </b><br />
<img alt="" border="0" height="1" hidden="" src="https://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=powcoathecomg-20&l=as2&o=1&a=B001ALN0JG" style="border: medium none; display: none; margin: 0px;" width="1" />PowderCoatGuidehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12345212251907477269noreply@blogger.com195tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6576346347573188227.post-19348706890511662362018-05-11T09:58:00.011-07:002020-10-11T10:29:28.749-07:00How to Avoid Easily Chipped Powder Coat<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4HcG1o4kDSk/WvXdtM7eUDI/AAAAAAAADQM/NKAI32d7IuE52h53B1LQv8MMxA5Q1nrswCLcBGAs/s1600/chipped%2Bpowder%2Bcoat.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="632" data-original-width="564" height="400" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4HcG1o4kDSk/WvXdtM7eUDI/AAAAAAAADQM/NKAI32d7IuE52h53B1LQv8MMxA5Q1nrswCLcBGAs/s400/chipped%2Bpowder%2Bcoat.jpg" width="356" /></a><span style="font-size: large;">Powder coating is usually an easy-going process that produces a brilliant and durable finish. However, occasionally; or if you're new, it may be a lot more frequent, you'll pull a part out of the oven and see that it is full of defects. The following articles will help you identify those defects and learn what you need to do to avoid seeing them again. This is the beginning of a series of articles that will help you solve issues with powder coating defects. This article will discuss one of the more serious powder coating defects: powder coat that is easily chipped. </span><br />
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<h2 style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-large;">Chipping or Fragile Powder Coat</span></h2>
This is not a noticeable defect until you bang your part around a little and see that your powder is chipping off. Powder coating is not indestructible and even a properly applied finish can be scratched or chipped if it is impacted with enough force or is exposed to sharp objects. However, it is a very durable finish so if your powder coating finish seems easily chipped and fragile, there are some things you need do to correct it. The following topics are all possible reasons for easily chipped powder coat.
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-0HfpiKNZ0hE/WvXhBNgloFI/AAAAAAAADQY/mEBiaTh9kxcj4jNw1GP5LYL7gf1PKCPWQCLcBGAs/s1600/peeling%2Bpowder%2Bcoat.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="422" data-original-width="580" height="290" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-0HfpiKNZ0hE/WvXhBNgloFI/AAAAAAAADQY/mEBiaTh9kxcj4jNw1GP5LYL7gf1PKCPWQCLcBGAs/s400/peeling%2Bpowder%2Bcoat.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><p><br />
</p><h3 style="text-align: left;"><b>Over-cured / Under-cured:</b> </h3><p>The most common reason for a non-durable powder coat finish is that the powder is under-cured. However, over-curing can also produce similar results. When a powder coated part is curing in the oven, it goes through several stages of curing and if you remove the part from the oven too soon or if the temperature is not high enough in the oven, then the powder cannot complete its full cure cycle. This often leads to a powder coat finish that easily chips.<br />
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</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-gKOZsvSKeDk/WbM7FlCuLtI/AAAAAAAADGk/tOURX5-KWx4N7AgHKXe4qvfoBvKCoKPggCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_0214.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="300" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-gKOZsvSKeDk/WbM7FlCuLtI/AAAAAAAADGk/tOURX5-KWx4N7AgHKXe4qvfoBvKCoKPggCLcBGAs/s400/IMG_0214.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />
The correct way to fix this is to monitor the temperature of your parts inside of the oven and only start the timer when the part has reached the correct temperature. Every powder that you use will have a "cure schedule" and this tells you how long the powder needs to cure for and at what temperature. The most common cure schedule is: 400 degrees F for 10 minutes. This means the actual temperature of your part needs to be 400 degrees F throughout and it needs to maintain that temperature for 10 minutes. The easiest way to do this is by using an <a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008EW837S/ref=as_li_ss_tl?&imprToken=ajSzcoSenW-nwvD2wOgm6A&slotNum=0&ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=f24fed95d5ddc4a034d1c6e9367f86c8">infrared thermometer</a> to check the temperature of the part while it is in the oven. Once it reaches the correct temperature, you can begin the timer. Periodically check the temperature throughout the 10 minutes to ensure the temperature hasn't drifted and turn the oven off once the 10 minutes are completed. This procedure is throughout discussed in this article, I strongly recommend reading it to make sure you are using your IR thermometer correctly: <a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2012/12/ir-thermometer.html#.WbM11dGP59N">Monitor Temperatures using an Infrared Thermometer</a>. <br />
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</div><p style="text-align: left;">To ensure that you do not under-bake the part, it is an accepted practice to leave the part in the oven for a couple of extra minutes. If it says 10 minutes, I will leave the part in for 12 or 13 minutes. This is allowable because most powders are over-bake stable and will experience no issues if left in the oven for a couple of extra minutes, but it does ensure that your part is fully-cured. <br />
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Over-baking a part can also result in a fragile powder coat finish. It also often causes your colors to brown or yellow and is usually very obvious once you remove your part from the oven. Closely monitoring your parts with an infrared thermometer will remedy this issue as well.<br />
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The correct way to repair a part that is chipping due to under-curing / over-curing is to <a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2013/07/stripping-powder-coat.html#.WbM4XtGP59N">strip the powder coat completely</a> and re-do it. <br />
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</p><h3 style="text-align: left;"><b>Insufficient prep work:</b> </h3><p style="text-align: left;"></p><p>If the part is not prepared correctly or at all, it can also cause the powder to chip easily. Powder coating does not adhere well to a completely smooth surface. It needs a textured finish or some "tooth" to grab on to. This is why parts should always be <a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2013/01/8-media-blaster.html#.WvW_lyAh19N">media blasted</a> or chemically pre-treated before powder coating. Media blasting with the correct media provides a textured finish that the powder mechanically bonds to. You can also opt to chemically treat your parts with a phosphate pre-treatment, however, media blasting often provides superior results. For the best, most durable finish, you can media blast first, and then do a phosphate pre-treatment.<br />
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The most obvious sign that insufficient prep is the cause of the chipping is that you will see a smooth-shiny finish where the powder coat has chipped. Occasionally, this is done on purpose such as when a part is polished to a mirror finish before powder coating. This is done for cosmetic reasons to enhance the look of the powder coating but if you do this, you should know that the finish will not be as durable. The correct way to fix it is to <a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2013/07/stripping-powder-coat.html#.WbM4XtGP59N">strip the part completely</a> and re-do it with the correct prep. Here is an example of chipped powder coat due to insufficient prep:<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-iEjO55cjnnM/WbM5-_6LYYI/AAAAAAAADGY/x1vt83ZZObIW03biekc_f2Uqj9OTPMxnQCLcBGAs/s1600/DSCF0232.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="480" data-original-width="640" height="300" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-iEjO55cjnnM/WbM5-_6LYYI/AAAAAAAADGY/x1vt83ZZObIW03biekc_f2Uqj9OTPMxnQCLcBGAs/s400/DSCF0232.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><p style="text-align: left;"><br />
</p><h3 style="text-align: left;"><b>Too much powder:</b> </h3><p style="text-align: left;"></p><p>Another common reason why powder coating can chip easily is if the powder coating finish is too thick. If the coating is too thick, any time the part is bumped by another object, that object has move leverage on the powder coating finish which makes it easier to knock a chunk off. It is very important to apply the correct amount of powder on a part for this reason and also because too much powder often results in lots of orange peel. You can measure how much powder are applying to your part with a <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Professional-Digital-Thickness-Nicety-CM8801-FN/dp/B00ORWNKQ8/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1504918977&sr=8-1&keywords=powder+coating+thickness+meter&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=a720d2b42c918260f7b9203a6325dbec">Coating Thickness Meter</a>. This is used after you have cured the powder coat and it is non-damaging to the surface. Once you get a reading, you can ensure that it is within the correct limits for the specific powder you are using. If the reading is way too high, it is best to strip the part and re-do it while focusing on applying much less powder. Keep in mind, that when you spray multiple coats of powder, it is normal that the thickness will increase, the important thing is that the powder is cured in-between each coat of powder. <br />
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A general rule of thumb, especially for those using cheaper hobby guns like the Eastwood Powder Coating Gun or the Harbor Freight Powder Coating Gun, you should aim to use as little powder as possible. The reason why I say this is because these guns are not good at getting powder into the hard-to-read Faraday areas and the more you try, the more build-up of powder you will end up with on the rest of your part. So always spray the Faraday areas first, and if you have a build-up of powder on the rest of the part, blow it off of those areas and coat it with the thinnest amount of powder possible WHILE still getting complete coverage. Make sure to check for complete coverage by shining the part with a <a href="https://www.amazon.com/J5-Tactical-V1-Pro-Flashlight-Original/dp/B00V7T1YRQ/ref=as_li_ss_tl?s=hardware&ie=UTF8&qid=1504919230&sr=1-4&keywords=led+flashlight&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=40b5b2a105cc3c9e76bc9ed2804109c1">bright LED flashlight</a>, it will highlight any missed spots.<br />
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</div><h2 style="text-align: left;"><b>Ensure you are producing a durable powder coat finish:</b></h2>
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</div>If you have experience any of the issues mentioned above, you should occasionally perform a cross-hatch test on your powder coated pieces to ensure that you are producing a durable finish. If you are doing large batches of any one thing, you should do this test at the beginning to ensure that you have your procedure perfected before continuing. The cross-hatch test involves taking a razor blade and making several parallel scratches side by side. You then make several more scratches perpendicular to these scratches producing a cross-hatch design. Then you scrape at the intersections of the scratches with the razor blade attempting to scrape up the powder. If the powder does not chip off, then it passes the test. If it does, then it has failed the test and you should read through the above paragraphs in order to perfect your method. Watch the video below to see the test in action:<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;"><br />
<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/So5gdJyCL2w?rel=0" width="560"></iframe></div><br />
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Another method is to place a piece of tape over the crossed hatched area and quickly rip it up. If the tape rips up powder, it failed the test. <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-NB_aL13CjwI/WbNCFQDAsAI/AAAAAAAADG0/xN0OQ7GgUsMCp9wbjxIYg8dgJNxdg9X5wCLcBGAs/s1600/cross%2Bhatch%2Bpowder%2Bcoating%2Btest.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="213" data-original-width="284" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-NB_aL13CjwI/WbNCFQDAsAI/AAAAAAAADG0/xN0OQ7GgUsMCp9wbjxIYg8dgJNxdg9X5wCLcBGAs/s1600/cross%2Bhatch%2Bpowder%2Bcoating%2Btest.jpg" /></a></div>PowderCoatGuidehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12345212251907477269noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6576346347573188227.post-48002073027914327482018-01-01T21:30:00.002-08:002020-10-11T10:31:24.413-07:00Powder Coating Guns<!-- AddThis Button BEGIN --> <br />
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<b>If you are completely new to Powder Coating, I recommend that you start off by getting a beginner powder coating gun. These are priced at less than $200. After you have that, you can try it out and see if it's something you want to pursue. This post will talk about some good powder coating guns you can start out with, but first take a look at some of the other equipment and supplies you will need:</b> <br />
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<b><i>Clicking the links will take you to the appropriate article on this site</i></b><br />
Powder coating gun - Read about them below in this post.<br />
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<li><a href="http://powdercoatguide.blogspot.com/2012/12/beginner-ovens.html">Oven</a></li>
<li><a href="http://powdercoatguide.blogspot.com/2012/12/powders.html">Powder</a></li>
<li><a href="http://powdercoatguide.blogspot.com/2012/12/objects-you-can-powder-coat.html">Something to powder coat</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2013/10/choosing-air-compressor.html#.U6Qf2UB6HrQ">Air Compressor</a> (Unless you use the Craftsman powder coating gun)</li>
<li><a href="http://powdercoatguide.blogspot.com/2012/12/ir-thermometer.html">Non-contact Infrared Thermometer </a> </li>
<li><a href="http://powdercoatguide.blogspot.com/2012/12/7-grounding.html">Grounding Rod</a></li>
<li><a href="http://powdercoatguide.blogspot.com/2013/01/8-media-blaster.html">Media Blaster</a> </li>
<li><a href="http://powdercoatguide.blogspot.com/2013/07/stripping-powder-coat.html">Powder Coat Stripper</a> - for WHEN you mess up.</li>
<li><a href="http://powdercoatguide.blogspot.com/2013/08/cleaning-and-degreasing-is-step-1.html">Degreaser & Soap</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2013/08/masking.html">Masking supplies</a>: plugs, high-temp tape, blue painters tape, etc.</li>
<li>Denatured Alcohol </li>
<li>Disposable Gloves</li>
<li>Respirator</li>
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<h3>
<span style="font-size: x-large;"><b>Powder Coating Gun</b></span></h3>
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The powder coating gun serves the purpose of electrically charging the powder and propelling it towards the parts you are powder coating. The amount it charges the powder is measured in KV/kilovolts (1,000 volts = 1 kilovolt). Cheaper guns have a pre-selected KV and more expensive guns allow you to choose. Powder coating guns range from $80 airless powder coating guns to $3,000+ for the professional powder coating setups like Wagner, Nordson, and Gema. If you already have a powder coating gun, read this article make sure you are using the <a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2015/05/how-to-spray-powder-coat.html" target="_blank"><b>correct spraying techniques</b></a>.<br />
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<span style="font-size: x-large;">Craftsman Powder Coating System: (No Air Compressor needed)</span></h4>
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I will start with the cheapest possible gun to get you coating. It is the <b><a href="http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?ff3=4&pub=5575060108&toolid=10001&campid=5337386189&customid=&mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fitm%2FCraftsman-Electric-Powder-Coat-Spray-Gun-Metal-Tin-Finisher-17288-car-boat-paint%2F332433968403%3Fepid%3D10021720378%26hash%3Ditem4d669bcd13%3Ag%3A-fcAAOSws65Tof%7Ep" target="_blank">Craftsman Powder Coating System</a></b>. You can see my full review here: Craftsman Powder Coating System Review<br />
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The Craftsman gun is the only powder coating gun that does not require an air compressor. If you are interested in this gun because you don't have a compressor, also see <a href="http://powdercoatguide.blogspot.com/2013/07/alternatives-to-sand-blasting.html">Alternatives to Sandblasting</a> since you would need an air compressor to do any sand blasting.<br />
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For the beginner, this Craftsman powder coating gun performs well and is cheap enough to let you know if you would like to pursue powder coating. This was the first gun I bought and I used it to produce a lot of very nice finishes:<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1lZLpKfBXm8/UKby2S46B0I/AAAAAAAAA50/JzJXSXtHEns/s1600/caliper.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="powder coated brake caliper red" border="0" height="257" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1lZLpKfBXm8/UKby2S46B0I/AAAAAAAAA50/JzJXSXtHEns/s400/caliper.png" title="powder coated brake caliper red" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Brake Caliper Coated with the Craftsman Powder Coating Gun</td></tr>
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I would call this gun under-rated. Powder coating forums will generally look down on it and it has some bad reviews because there is a part on the gun that breaks for even using a feather-lite touch. If you want to try out powder coating without spending much money, don't worry about that stuff. This gun has limitations, but the biggest limitation as a beginner will be your experience. The piece that breaks is a lock to hold the cup in, however it isn't really necessary. My cup has never fallen out even without the lock. <br />
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The gun is very easy to use. I do not suggest using the ground wire that comes with the gun, but instead using a stand-alone grounding rod (<a href="http://powdercoatguide.blogspot.com/2012/12/7-grounding.html">explained here</a>). The ground rod method should always be used instead of the guns ground, regardless of gun. <br />
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The clear plastic cup has a couple issues:<br />
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<ul>
<li>It does not hold much powder. One cup can almost coat a 16" wheel before needing refilling. </li>
<li>The lid on the gun fits so tightly that if there is any powder on the lip, the lid will not tighten. To resolve this, I use a spoon to scoop powder into the cup, trying not touch the sides, then I use a small clean dedicated paintbrush to brush off any powder in the grooves on the lip before I tighten the lid. This brush is only used for this purpose and otherwise is kept in a resealable baggy to keep it clean. You don't want to introduce contaminants into your powder cup with a dirty brush.</li>
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After you manage to get the powder in the cup, you simply slide the cup onto the gun, plug the gun in the wall, attach the grounding rod to the part you are coating and you are ready to go.<br />
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There is a metal electrode that protrudes from the nozzle of the gun that charges the powder. This electrode will get coated with powder which will reduce the transfer efficiency of the gun, resulting in more powder on the floor than on your part. Clean the electrode frequently with a clean paint brush or towel. <br />
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It may seem like I mentioned quite a bit of defects about this gun, but really, after you get used to it, it works decent enough. When comparing it to the price of other powder coating guns, you can see that it serves as an excellent introduction to powder coating. You can begin coating your own parts without a huge investment. Just keep in mind that this gun has no place in a professional powder coating shop, except maybe shooting some color sample panels.<br />
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It also comes with some masking plugs and a roll of high-temp tape, but you will find that you will want a larger selection than what his included.<br />
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The following powder coating guns are still beginner guns but they may offer a few more features, however, you will <a href="https://www.powdercoatguide.com/2013/10/choosing-air-compressor.html#.XsmKtcApB9N">need an air compressor</a> for all of them.<br />
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<span style="font-size: x-large;">Harbor Freight Powder Coating Gun</span></h4>
The next price up is the <a href="http://www.harborfreight.com/10-30-psi-powder-coating-system-94244.html" target="_blank">Harbor Freight Powder Coating Gun</a>. I have never used this gun but I have found that all of Harbor Freights tools fall into one of two categories: great deal or absolute garbage. You can quickly determine which one it is by the reviews on their website. Considering this gun has a 5 star review, I would say it is a good powder coating gun for a beginner. If you are not close to a Harbor Freight, you can also get the gun on Amazon here: <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Chicago-Electric-Portable-Powder-Coating/dp/B006ZBCZNS/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1504903093&sr=8-8&keywords=powder+coating+un&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=00bd5761c947ce505d793ceb5ba39d17">Chicago Electric Powder Coating Gun</a>.<br />
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Harbor Freight also sells 4 different colored powders: matte black, red, white, and yellow. These are often very clumpy and require tons of sifting to get them to a usable consistency. The good thing about the powders is how cheap they are and if you dump the powder in the garbage, the container it comes in screws right onto the harbor freight gun. So, save the containers, and you can fill them with any powder you want, just make sure you thoroughly clean the containers out. <br />
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<span style="font-size: x-large;">Eastwood Powder Coating Guns</span></h4>
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<span style="font-size: large;"> </span></h4>
The next is Eastwood's line of guns, they have a Hotcoat Starter and a<b> <a href="https://www.eastwood.com/dual-voltage-hotcoat-powder-gun.html">dual voltage powder coating gun</a></b><img alt="" border="0" height="1" hidden="" src="https://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=powcoathecomg-20&l=as2&o=1&a=B002XE4LNS" style="border: medium none; display: none !important; margin: 0px;" width="1" />. You remember I mentioned adjustable KV (kilovolts) above, well the dual voltage gun offers you the adjustment of two different voltages which comes in handy when you are shooting two coats. Eastwood also sells their guns in a line of starter kits that come with plugs, tape, and assorted powder colors. They also come with Eastwood's instruction manual, a manual which you should ignore for the most part as the information skips a lot of important details. The Eastwood powder coating gun is the most popular gun for new powder coaters and it does work considerably better than the Harbor Freight powder coating gun and the Craftsman powder coating gun mentioned above. <br />
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Hotcoat Dual Voltage Gun: <br />
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This gun has two preset voltages for you to select. Normally you would use two different voltage settings when you are doing two separate coats, however both of the settings on this gun are low to begin with so the main advantage is that it has a higher voltage of 25kv to shoot larger parts such as wheels or sheet metal. All of the other above-mentioned guns have around a 12-15kv settings that are not adjustable. Basically,the higher the KV, the more your powder will be attracted to the part, until you set it too high and the powder actually bounces off the part. An example of a high KV setting would be over 90kv. <br />
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<span style="font-size: x-large;">Redline EZ-50 Powder Coating Gun</span></h4>
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If you are interested in a mid-level gun that performs quite a bit better than all of the guns mentioned previously, check out the <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Red-Line-EZ50-Powder-Coating/dp/B00WYACEJO/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1472276600&sr=8-1&keywords=redline+ez50&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=1793f55f0dc713a1ff681c0c030d8e28"><b>Redline EZ-50</b></a>. It can be found for around $350 and is a very good gun for the price. The voltage is completely adjustable up to 50 KV and does a lot better job with Faraday cage areas as well as <a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2015/07/spraying-multiple-coats.html#.V8EpiK21iW_"><b>spraying multiple coats</b></a>. If you plan to charge money for your powder coating service, I would say this gun is the bare minimum.<span style="color: red;"> </span><br />
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<span style="color: red;">If you purchase a Redline EZ-50 gun and the power adapter does not have a ground prong, then the gun must be grounded using a<b> <a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2012/12/7-grounding.html#.V8EpjK21iW9">dedicated grounding rod</a></b> using the alligator clip supplied with the gun. Without this gun being grounded to a grounding rod, there have been reports of it shocking the user. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: x-large;">Hyper Smooth Powder Coating Guns</span></h4>
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The <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Smooth-Electrostatic-Powder-Coating-System/dp/B00SGACMXO/ref=as_li_ss_tl?keywords=hyper+smooth+powder+coat&qid=1552849681&s=gateway&sr=8-1-fkmrnull&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=abdfd939903c01bd47b240beeb0faf9e&language=en_US">Hyper Smooth 02</a> or Hyper Smooth 03 powder coating guns are pretty much the last rung on the ladder before moving onto professional-level guns. These guns are great for the serious hobbyist or a lower volume powder coating shop. The Hyper Smooth guns easily apply multiple coats, up to 15 coats according to some. If you select the DPW model, can shoot powder into very difficult Faraday areas. The transfer efficiency is also much better than the lower level guns. This not only means that you will waste less powder, it also means a cleaner shop as more of your powder will end up on the part and not in the air or on the ground. The Hyper Smooth guns are very similar and comparable to the Kool Koat guns sold by Columbia Coatings as they share the same electronics inside and come with the same actual gun.<br />
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<a href="https://www.amazon.com/Smooth-Electrostatic-Powder-Coating-System/dp/B00SGACMXO/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1504913816&sr=8-1&keywords=hyper+smooth+powder+coating+gun&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=f7ea0c841ae29d9730b88d70a72533dd"><img alt="https://www.amazon.com/Smooth-Electrostatic-Powder-Coating-System/dp/B00SGACMXO/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1504913816&sr=8-1&keywords=hyper+smooth+powder+coating+gun&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=f7ea0c841ae29d9730b88d70a72533dd" border="0" data-original-height="399" data-original-width="600" height="265" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-s4CKIzW9Kv8/WbMLWtYxtpI/AAAAAAAADFg/vDmul9MoLlwsUMuNvnLyDeFXHzjrNx-wQCLcBGAs/s400/HS02_widemouth_edit.jpg" title="Hyper Smooth Powder Coating Gun" width="400" /></a></div>
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There are several versions available of the Hyper Smooth range:<br />
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The main distinction is the 02 or 03 model and the difference between the two is that the 03 has a separate regulated auxiliary air-out line to connect to a fluidized hopper. A fluidized hopper is a type of hopper that has an air source connected to it and the air flow through the powder continually mixes and sifts the powder. The powder in a fluidized hopper is so fine that is resembles a liquid as it is moving around. Fluidized hoppers ensure that the powder you are spraying is as consistent as it can be with no clumps and an even distribution of all of contents of the powder. For the best powder coating results, a fluidized hopper is a must, and therefore the 03 models would be the one to go with. However, the 02 model will save you some money and you can still use a fluidized hopper, you will just need to construct your own hopper with a separate air source.<br />
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Within the 02 and 03 range, there is the "LED" and the "DPW"models. The "LED" is the basic model while the "DPW" which stands for Digital Pulsation Wave, has a move advanced board that makes shooting Faraday areas easier. Below is a visual comparison of the 02 and 03, DPW and LED models. <br />
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This article covers most of the beginner and intermediate guns but I will cover the professional guns ($3,000+) in later posts. <br />
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<script type="text/javascript">var addthis_config = {"data_track_addressbar":true};</script> <script src="//s7.addthis.com/js/300/addthis_widget.js#pubid=ra-521c315825184b6b" type="text/javascript"></script> <!-- AddThis Button END -->PowderCoatGuidehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12345212251907477269noreply@blogger.com96tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6576346347573188227.post-34408848183478389562017-07-01T07:18:00.002-07:002020-10-11T10:34:47.120-07:00Spraying Multiple Coats<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-hV4r-algpmE/VbjcTfbED1I/AAAAAAAACHI/aDTrrU0ynO0/s1600/two%2Btone%2Bpowder%2Bcoated%2Bwheels%2B%2528Medium%2529.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="powder coaitng two tone wheels rims" border="0" height="267" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-hV4r-algpmE/VbjcTfbED1I/AAAAAAAACHI/aDTrrU0ynO0/s400/two%2Btone%2Bpowder%2Bcoated%2Bwheels%2B%2528Medium%2529.jpg" title="powder coaitng two tone wheels rims" width="400" /></a><span style="font-size: large;">There are several instances when powder coating where multiple coats will be involved. Often times, it is a clear coat for added protection and appearance. Sometimes it is required, chrome powders need a clear to protect them from oxidizing. Candy colors need a chrome base to achieve the candy look. Also, multiple colors can be applied onto one part to achieve a two-tone look. This article will help you apply multiple coats of powder the correct way.</span><br />
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Adding a top coat or second coat should not be much more difficult than the base coat or first coat, however adding a third, fourth, fifth coat will depend on the level of powder coating gun you are using. A cheap hobby powder coating gun like an <b><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002XE6HHG/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B002XE6HHG&linkCode=as2&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=VBZP5GTFJ7GBH6UB">Eastwood</a></b>, <b><a href="https://www.ebay.com/itm/Craftsman-Electric-Powder-Coat-Spray-Gun-Metal-Tin-Finisher-17288-car-boat-paint/332433968403?epid=10021720378&hash=item4d669bcd13:g:-fcAAOSws65Tof~p">Craftsman</a></b> or <b><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006ZBCZNS/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B006ZBCZNS&linkCode=as2&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=U33Y4IBBO3DL2FK3">Harbor Freight</a></b> will struggle much more with multiple coats, specifically powder attraction, than a mid-level or a professional gun will. This is because the grounded metal part that you are spraying is now insulated by the first layer of powder, and each layer of powder after that becomes increasingly more difficult. Using a grounding rod to ground your parts will significantly aid this process but it can only do so much to help with the shortcomings of a hobby powder coating gun. <b><a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2012/12/7-grounding.html">Learn how to setup a grounding rod</a></b>. <br />
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Another way to overcome shooting multiple coats with a cheaper gun is one that I don't recommend unless you absolutely need to, and this is something that you should only do if you are shooting your own parts. This method involves shooting the part hot so that when the powder hits the part, it will slightly melt, causing it to stick. The issue with this method is that it is very easy to spray way too much powder on the part which can lead to an easily chipped part and possibly orange peel. When shooting the part hot, use the lowest temperature that allows the powder to stick to the part, generally 175 to 200 degrees F, and try to avoid spraying excess powder on the part as much as possible.<br />
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><b>Adjusting KV </b></span> </div>
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A powder coating gun feature that aids shooting multiple coats is the ability to adjust the KV setting. A 2nd coat should always be sprayed with reduced KV, generally 50% less than the first coat. For example, if you shoot the first coat at 70 KV, you would then spray the following coats at 35 to 40 KV. It is best to play with the KV settings and find the sweet spot for the parts you are shooting. These adjustable KV settings are only found on the mid-level and professional powder coating guns.<br />
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><b>The Process</b></span></div>
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The process differs slightly depending on the powders you are using. When you are spraying multiple coats and a chrome powder is not involved, a partial cure between coats is the best method. The advantage of partial curing a powder before shooting the next coat is intercoat adhesion. This means that the two powders are crosslinked and bonded together as well as being bonded to the part. Failure to partially cure the first coat before spraying the second coat can cause the second coat to peel off. This is called delamination. If you think about it, when you are spraying your first coat over a sandblasted base, the powder has a very textured surface to grip onto. However, if you spray a second coat over a high-gloss base coat, the surface is very smooth and the powder has nothing to grab onto. Partial curing the powders between coats allows them to melt together preventing this from happening. Follow step 3a. below if a chrome powder IS NOT being used.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5-tak5j4Lqo/Vbje2xUGLYI/AAAAAAAACHY/vWll6mMdAck/s1600/IMAG0036%2B%2528Medium%2529.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating black chrome veiny cracked apperance" border="0" height="179" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5-tak5j4Lqo/Vbje2xUGLYI/AAAAAAAACHY/vWll6mMdAck/s320/IMAG0036%2B%2528Medium%2529.jpg" title="powder coating black chrome veiny cracked apperance" width="320" /></a>When you are spraying multiple coats with a chrome type powder involved, you must always fully cure the chrome powder before spraying the next coat. It doesn't matter whether the next coat is a clear coat, candy coat, or anything else, the chrome must be fully cured in the oven before moving on. Unfortunately, this increases the chances of delamination occurring, but it is a risk that must be taken if you want the correct appearance when finished. A chrome powder that is not fully cured can appear to have a veiny cracked appearance when top coated as pictured on the right. Follow steps 3b. below if a chrome powder IS being used. <br />
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><b>Step by Step Instructions for Multiple Coats</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><b>(no chrome powder involved)</b></span></div>
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1. Prepare your part just as you usually would. <a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2014/12/prepping-for-powder-coating-step-by-step.html">How to prep for powder coating</a>.<br />
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2. Spray the first coat of powder just as you usually would. <a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2015/05/how-to-spray-powder-coat.html">How to properly spray powder coat</a>.<br />
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3. Insert part in oven. If any masking was used, it is best to pull the part from the oven after the part reaches 200 degrees and remove any masking. Then insert the part back in the oven and complete the partial cure. Removing the masking at this time gives cleaner masking lines, read more about it <a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2013/08/powder-coat-masking-part-ii.html#.Vbi8urWz5kF">here</a>. <br />
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3a. Cure the part in the oven at the required temperature but for only 60% of the required cure time. For example, if the powder calls for a cure time of 10 minutes, only cure it for 6 minutes. It is very important that you only start your timer after the entire part itself has reached the required temp, confirm part temperature with an <a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2012/12/ir-thermometer.html">Infrared Thermometer</a>. <br />
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3b. (Chrome powder only) Do a full cure of the chrome powder in the oven. I even allow the part 3 extra minutes in the oven just to be 100% that the chrome powder is fully cured. It is very important that you only start your timer after the entire part itself has reached the required temp, confirm part temperature with an <a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2012/12/ir-thermometer.html">Infrared Thermometer</a>. <br />
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4. Using clean gloves, remove part from oven and allow it to cool to room temperature. Reapply masking if necessary. Any handling of the part with bare hands can cause issues in the following coat. If you use air to blow off the part at this time, it can cause a static charge that causes the second coat to adhere in odd patterns. If air must be used to blow off the part, or if you wipe the part down, you can dissipate this static charge by heating up the part in the oven for a couple of minutes at 150 degrees F. I try to avoid any need to blow off or wipe the part in between coats. <br />
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5. Before spraying the second coat, make sure that your ground connection is still attached to bare metal. If your part is grounded through a hook, use a file to remove a tiny area of powder where hook makes contact so that the ground is still touching bare metal.<br />
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6. Reduce the KV on your powder coating gun by about 50% if possible and spray the second coat.<br />
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7. If the second coat is the final coat of powder you will be applying to the part, then it is time to put it in the oven and do a full-cure following the second powders curing instructions. Again, remove any masking after the part reaches 200 degrees for best results. If you plan to spray additional coats, do another partial cure and repeat steps 4 through 7 until you reach your final coat and then do a full cure following instructions for the last powder applied. <br />
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><b>Mulitple Colors on the Same Part (Two Tone) </b></span></div>
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If you are shooting a two-tone part with multiple colors, the instructions above also apply. The only difference is how you apply the masking. The order in which you shoot the colors really depends on how easy it is to mask one area as opposed to the other. Raised areas are much easier to mask off than recessed areas. The only definitive rule to keep in mind is that red should always be shot last if possible as it tends to bleed through lighter colors, especially white. I will show some examples and how they would be most easily powder coated. It is very important to practice your masking skills. I recommend reading <a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2013/08/masking.html">Masking</a> and <a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2013/08/powder-coat-masking-part-ii.html">Masking Part II</a> for some tips. <br />
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<img border="0" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/proxy/Fsv6nmByO8LQ5ME34SZ92ZMUv_aC_YiZvbJsGnszOjYZW1HEBolNK05gIfXwiQ9xcMN3sZdrwsfM-2lc5phQILQFtS3Xn0i3QadlX479DnYAXZwwAex278cTMw3woigx0oNI" /><br />
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<a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UCBIX1A/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=a1d640f76f9c15df99c0baf0c650e6e4" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-3qHsaq4Seu8/V7YVs1Sr0FI/AAAAAAAACqk/EVpn2x1L4igc-GUGtuF-Q9eoUpjUPF3ZQCLcB/s200/71WOd1bYOxL._SL1500_.jpg" /></a>For the wheels pictured below, the easiest method to coat these would be to shoot the entire wheel in the metallic silver color and do a partial cure. Then mask off the lip, face of the spokes, barrel, and backside of the wheel. Then you would shoot the unmasked areas red. For best results, do another partial cure, and then clear coat the entire wheel. The clear coat helps to smooth any transition lines. When doing two-tones, it is very important to remove any masking well before the full cure is complete, otherwise the edges transition between the two colors will not be a nice, clean, straight line.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Ffn9c8OwqAI/VbjM3QFbpWI/AAAAAAAACGA/nmrPr58KNBg/s1600/two%2Btone%2Bpowder%2Bcoated%2Bwheels.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating two toone rim wheel" border="0" height="266" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Ffn9c8OwqAI/VbjM3QFbpWI/AAAAAAAACGA/nmrPr58KNBg/s400/two%2Btone%2Bpowder%2Bcoated%2Bwheels.jpeg" title="powder coating two tone rim wheel" width="400" /></a></div>
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To do the two tone valve cover below, the easiest method would be to spray the entire valve cover in the gold vein powder coat and do a partial cure. Then spray the entire valve cover in the metallic red and carefully wipe the metallic red from the letters using a damp finger. Then do a partial cure on the metallic red, shoot the entire valve cover with clear and do a full cure. <br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-tUfGJ2jBwy0/VbjRBpq2uTI/AAAAAAAACGQ/3UAC00H_JDc/s1600/two%2Btone%2Bpowder%2Bcoated%2Bvalve%2Bcover%2B%2528Medium%2529.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="powder coaitng two tone valve cover" border="0" height="320" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-tUfGJ2jBwy0/VbjRBpq2uTI/AAAAAAAACGQ/3UAC00H_JDc/s320/two%2Btone%2Bpowder%2Bcoated%2Bvalve%2Bcover%2B%2528Medium%2529.jpg" title="powder coaitng two tone valve cover" width="240" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><b>Vinyl Masking for Custom Logos and Designs</b></span></div>
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To powder coat logos as pictured on the Brembo brake caliper below, a vinyl stencil can be used. You would first shoot the entire caliper silver and do a partial cure. Then apply the Brembo vinyl logo and shoot the entire caliper in red, carefully removing the vinyl logo once the powder is partially cured. Then shoot a coat of clear and do a full cure.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-kFTodotKZ2g/VbjTT58V4CI/AAAAAAAACGg/3ER3efC8vyc/s1600/powder%2Bcoated%2Bbrake%2Bcaliper%2Blogoo%2B%2528Medium%2529.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating custom logos" border="0" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-kFTodotKZ2g/VbjTT58V4CI/AAAAAAAACGg/3ER3efC8vyc/s320/powder%2Bcoated%2Bbrake%2Bcaliper%2Blogoo%2B%2528Medium%2529.jpeg" title="powder coating custom logos" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://www.amazon.com/USCutter-Vinyl-Cutter-34in-Bundle/dp/B00CDQGCTW/ref=as_li_ss_tl?keywords=vinyl+plotter&qid=1553376512&s=gateway&sr=8-3&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=d4bc5d0b4d05cd44ffdb6a1cfc061775&language=en_US" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="https://www.amazon.com/USCutter-Vinyl-Cutter-34in-Bundle/dp/B00CDQGCTW/ref=as_li_ss_tl?keywords=vinyl+plotter&qid=1553376512&s=gateway&sr=8-3&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=d4bc5d0b4d05cd44ffdb6a1cfc061775&language=en_US" border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="1000" height="320" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-3IfWDplrJU8/XJalPBTAf_I/AAAAAAAAETg/2gjYIZUaPSo3PgIIs7RMRrxRxhgSZ8JHwCLcBGAs/s320/powder%2Bcoat%2Bvinyl%2Bcutter%2Bmasking.jpg" title="Vinyl cutter / plotter for powder coat masking" width="320" /></a></div>
If you would like a custom logo or design that would be too difficult to mask free-hand, a custom vinyl stencil is the best way. For more common logos like the Brembo logo above, they can often be ordered online. However, if you want your own custom logos, you can search for a local sign cutting shop and have them cut it out for you. Alternatively, if you are doing lots of custom designs, you can cut out your own stencils using a <b><a href="https://www.amazon.com/USCutter-Vinyl-Cutter-34in-Bundle/dp/B00CDQGCTW/ref=as_li_ss_tl?keywords=vinyl+plotter&qid=1553376512&s=gateway&sr=8-3&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=d4bc5d0b4d05cd44ffdb6a1cfc061775&language=en_US">Vinyl Cutter</a></b>. These machines will cut out your custom design on a vinyl sheets that you can use as a mask for powder coating. There are <a href="https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=as_li_ss_tl?k=vinyl+cutter&ref=nb_sb_noss_2&linkCode=ll2&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=455cd9272c3188df1520f7ac2713f352&language=en_US">lots</a> of different vinyl cutters available depending on how big or small your work is. For smaller work such as coating tumblers, a smaller <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Cricut-Explore-Air-2-Machine/dp/B01GSOMVRG/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1526112535&sr=8-2&keywords=cricut+vinyl+cutter&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=58b8772a807e27a887e764b19af1210a">Cricut Explore</a>/ <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Cricut-2003925-Maker/dp/B072VYPWM4/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1526112760&sr=8-4&keywords=cricut+vinyl+cutter&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=99cc776d9ea2c83923094e2903dff086">Cricut Maker</a> or <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Silhouette-SILHOUETTE-CAMEO-3-4T-Wireless-Cutting-Machine/dp/B01I51ME1S/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1526112838&sr=8-2&keywords=silhouette+vinyl+cutter&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=c08cff52616ae6f36fdc1582e5fc36ae">Silhouette Cameo</a> would serve you better. These smaller vinyl cutters are frequently used when coating stainless steel tumblers like YETI Cups. <br />
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-6VP52qjA4DI/WvanNXlA6qI/AAAAAAAADQ4/e3AgajjD2R8NUmmkwgGAcil3Aw0kFhc9wCEwYBhgL/s1600/powder%2Bcoating.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="972" data-original-width="1600" height="388" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-6VP52qjA4DI/WvanNXlA6qI/AAAAAAAADQ4/e3AgajjD2R8NUmmkwgGAcil3Aw0kFhc9wCEwYBhgL/s640/powder%2Bcoating.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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Common types of vinyl used for powder coating are <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Oracal-Matte-Vinyl-Roll-Inches/dp/B01HUW7TPY/ref=as_li_ss_tl?s=arts-crafts&ie=UTF8&qid=1526111803&sr=1-8&keywords=oracal+631&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=963cd7d7e260898bdf72fb805101afd6">Oracal 631</a> and<a href="https://www.amazon.com/Ultimate-651-Starter-Adhesive-Assortment/dp/B01NADR97B/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1526110913&sr=8-3&keywords=oracal+651&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=fc49889ce5f61147ce0a1dde74a012dd"> Oracal 651</a>. They both come in either <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Ultimate-651-Starter-Adhesive-Assortment/dp/B01NADR97B/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1526110913&sr=8-3&keywords=oracal+651&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=fc49889ce5f61147ce0a1dde74a012dd">rolls</a> or <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Ultimate-651-Starter-Adhesive-Assortment/dp/B01NADR97B/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1526110913&sr=8-3&keywords=oracal+651&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=fc49889ce5f61147ce0a1dde74a012dd">sheets</a>, just make sure that when you purchase vinyl, that it is the correct size for your specific vinyl cutter. Oracal 631 is ideal for temporary vinyl masking as it is easier to remove. This can withstand partial cure tempts of 300 degrees F for 2-3 minutes or 400 degrees F for 1 minute. After doing the partial cure, and pulling the part from the oven, let the part cool down for 30 to 45 seconds and the vinyl should remove cleanly. However, if you find you cured the vinyl too long and it is leaving residue behind, it can usually be removed using <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Klean-Strip-VM-P-Naphtha/dp/B001G9TGQI/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1526111222&sr=8-3&keywords=naptha&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=355cac3b5f1cfddde61f9de744d1bc3d">Naphtha</a> without affecting the powder. Once the vinyl mask has been removed, you can then fully cure the part, or continue the partial cure for a couple more minutes, clear the part, and then full cure.<br />
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Oracle 651 is better if you want to cut out a permanent vinyl logo that stays and it can be powder coated over. It can turn yellow or brown if it reaches too high of a temperature in the oven. Lower temperature powders are best for this, or you can use a standard powder and cure it at 325 degrees F for 25 minutes. <br />
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A vinyl cutter can also make short work of masking gasket and mating areas on parts. Just put the gasket surface face down on a scanner and cut out the design on the cutter and you have a perfectly cut out vinyl mask.<br />
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<h4 style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-large;"> Fades</span></h4>
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You can also fade one powder coating color into another. This can be done two different ways. The easiest way is to simply spray the first color right up to the point you your fade to start. Then without curing, change the color in your gun and shoot the other color on the opposite side up to the transition line and then lightly spray onto the other color however far you want the fade to go. When doing it this way, the two powders must be of the same chemistry. Meaning TGIC with TGIC, Acrylic with Acrylic, and Epoxy with Epoxy. If you are using powders of different chemistries, the entire part should be sprayed in the first color, then do a partial cure in the oven and add the second color up until the point where you want the fade and then cure. Clear can be applied using each method and it will help the appearance of the fade.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6An9tgNjmL8/VbjZHiM6x8I/AAAAAAAACG4/hTJhQ7pdseA/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Bfade.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating fade" border="0" height="267" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6An9tgNjmL8/VbjZHiM6x8I/AAAAAAAACG4/hTJhQ7pdseA/s400/powder%2Bcoating%2Bfade.jpg" title="powder coating fade" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-bnnwKZEswS0/WvapR88cETI/AAAAAAAADRA/G023hnRkuM8VdTd7d7RCQBjXgSQrZar7QCLcBGAs/s1600/21740721_1458754167505009_4600944887969749945_o.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1280" data-original-width="960" height="640" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-bnnwKZEswS0/WvapR88cETI/AAAAAAAADRA/G023hnRkuM8VdTd7d7RCQBjXgSQrZar7QCLcBGAs/s640/21740721_1458754167505009_4600944887969749945_o.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Following this information and with a little bit of practice, you should be able to apply multiple coats of powder in any configuration you can think of.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">If you have any questions, feel free to leave a comment. </span>
<!-- Blogger automated replacement: "https://images-blogger-opensocial.googleusercontent.com/gadgets/proxy?url=http%3A%2F%2Fir-na.amazon-adsystem.com%2Fe%2Fir%3Ft%3Dpowcoathecomg-20%26l%3Das2%26o%3D1%26a%3DB00UCBIX1A&container=blogger&gadget=a&rewriteMime=image%2F*" with "https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/proxy/Fsv6nmByO8LQ5ME34SZ92ZMUv_aC_YiZvbJsGnszOjYZW1HEBolNK05gIfXwiQ9xcMN3sZdrwsfM-2lc5phQILQFtS3Xn0i3QadlX479DnYAXZwwAex278cTMw3woigx0oNI" -->PowderCoatGuidehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12345212251907477269noreply@blogger.com60tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6576346347573188227.post-76459806123423848392016-05-26T00:35:00.025-07:002020-10-11T11:13:53.086-07:00Plumbing Your Air Compressor<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: large;">Plumbing serves a couple of purposes when it comes to your air compressor. Not only does it allow the air to get from point A to point B in your shop or garage, but it can also help to cool the air which assists in reducing moisture. This is very important for powder coating and sandblasting, as well as any other pneumatic tool you may use including HVLP paint guns and standard air tools. The material you choose for your air lines and the way it is laid out can have a drastic effect on the amount of moisture coming out at the end of your air hose as well as the CFM provided. This article will help you decide how to set up the air lines in your shop or garage. </span></div>
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AIR LINE LAYOUT </span></h2></center><center> </center><div style="text-align: left;">There are a few basic guidelines when setting up your air compressor plumbing. Most of these guidelines are for efficiency and ease of use, however some are for safety. It is very important that your air compressor plumbing is safe. A burst pipe can be very dangerous or even deadly when it comes to compressed air. If you do not feel comfortable designing or installing your air compressor plumbing yourself, it is best to have a professional do it.
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<div style="text-align: left;"><b>Disclaimer:</b> This website and its owners are not responsible for any injuries or damages incurred from installing or using compressed air systems.</div></center>
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To help design your air compressor piping layout, also read <a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2014/06/how-to-dry-compressed.html#.V0avbr61iW9"><b>How to Dry Compressed Air</b></a>.<br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>1.</b></span> There should be a <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Forged-Valve-California-Approved-Handle/dp/B077MCJZ4K/ref=as_li_ss_tl?keywords=1/2+ball+valve&qid=1552886541&refinements=p_85:2470955011&rnid=2470954011&rps=1&s=gateway&sr=8-17&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=8e579c900b94e0d6812961265b19a738&language=en_US"><b>ball valve</b></a> right at the outlet of the air compressor. This allows you to shut the air off for the entire system. If your air compressor plumbing ever gets damaged and bursts, you can shut off the ball valve and only the air in air lines will be able to escape instead of having to wait for your entire air compressor to empty. I shut off this ball valve whenever I will be out of the garage for more than an hour. It is very easy and cheap insurance. It also allows you to make repairs or changes on your air lines without needing to drain the whole air compressor tank. The internal diameter of this ball valve should match the rest of your air lines. If you use 1/2" air lines, then use a 1/2" ball valve. Most air compressor outlets are larger than you'll need so you will also need an appropriately sized reducer for your ball valve. A male x female ball valve is ideal since the outlet of your compressor is female and the outlet of the air hose is male. <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.amazon.com/Forged-Valve-California-Approved-Handle/dp/B077MCJZ4K/ref=as_li_ss_tl?keywords=1/2+ball+valve&qid=1552886541&refinements=p_85:2470955011&rnid=2470954011&rps=1&s=gateway&sr=8-17&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=8e579c900b94e0d6812961265b19a738&language=en_US" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="500" data-original-width="500" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-psYmlaYK6Qo/XI8rmsuFx6I/AAAAAAAAEQg/gLbheJ_Rs3071B6KLPCAZAln-9F4RZGqgCLcBGAs/w400-h400/ball%2Bvalve%2Bair%2Bcompressor.jpg" width="400" /></a></div></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>2.</b></span> If you are using a hard material as your air line such as copper or iron, there must be a soft connection from your air compressor to the pipe. Air compressors create a lot of vibrations and if it is directly connected to your piping, all of the vibrations can lead to stresses in the pipes and possibly failure. Instead, after the <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Forged-Valve-California-Approved-Handle/dp/B077MCJZ4K/ref=as_li_ss_tl?keywords=1/2+ball+valve&qid=1552886541&refinements=p_85:2470955011&rnid=2470954011&rps=1&s=gateway&sr=8-17&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=8e579c900b94e0d6812961265b19a738&language=en_US"><b>ball valve</b></a>, you should install a short piece or air hose to connect to your piping. This short piece of hose is called a whip or<b> <a href="http://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-46362-2-Inch-3-Foot-Rubber/dp/B00Z1K6YS6/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1459590439&sr=8-2-fkmr3&keywords=air+hose+leader+1%2F2+air+stainless+whip&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=e3326a9c6ac8b4d15577f79ba0e7c21d">lead-in hose</a></b> and it serves to insulate your piping from air compressor vibrations. These can also be <b><a href="http://www.amazon.com/Flexible-Connector-compressor-stainless-braided/dp/B004S4FEE6/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=d6367875f195436f8bec50e6ffd28053">braided stainless</a></b> to which are more resistant to the heat right at the exit of your air compressor. In the picture below, you can see the air compressor outlet reducer, ball valve, and lead-in hose.<br />
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<a href="https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-46362-2-Inch-3-Foot-Rubber/dp/B00Z1K6YS6/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1459590439&sr=8-2-fkmr3&keywords=air+hose+leader+1/2+air+stainless+whip&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=eadeafb79274321a6526d6b74ca07fe3" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-46362-2-Inch-3-Foot-Rubber/dp/B00Z1K6YS6/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1459590439&sr=8-2-fkmr3&keywords=air+hose+leader+1/2+air+stainless+whip&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=eadeafb79274321a6526d6b74ca07fe3" border="0" height="302" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-xCrcI23NClQ/V7YP_SlCUWI/AAAAAAAACo8/eThhJNR0crA_LFqxu2UhSv5Fdjc7aZm0gCLcB/w400-h302/61sW9Un8VmL._SL1500_.jpg" title="air compressor lead in hose" width="400" /></a></div>
<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-g2FmxAyZn6w/Vv-kRmDUo2I/AAAAAAAACY0/g3x26SFOzXAA4IgTKS3N0yJI5CTiKflDg/s1600/DSC_0207.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="air compressor shut off ball valve with lead-in hose whip" border="0" height="400" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-g2FmxAyZn6w/Vv-kRmDUo2I/AAAAAAAACY0/g3x26SFOzXAA4IgTKS3N0yJI5CTiKflDg/s400/DSC_0207.JPG" title="" width="225" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>3.</b></span> Your piping should be sized appropriately based on the CFM output of your air compressor and the length of pipe you will be running. A drop in pressure can be expected through any pipe, but having a pipe that is too small in diameter for the length of the run required can lead to too much pressure drop. Below you fill find a chart that will help you determine what diameter piping you should use. For most home powder coaters or shops, you'll most likely be using 1/2", 3/4", or 1" piping. When using larger diameter pipe like 3/4" or 1", the entire system does not need to be this size. It is acceptable to do the horizontal loop in the larger size and then neck down to 1/2" for the drops. It is okay to size your pipe larger than needed without any negative effects, except cost. Some benefits of larger diameter piping is that it increases the overall capacity of your air compressor and it provides more surface area to the air, allowing the air to transfer more heat into the piping so it can cool down more quickly. I personally use a very minimal amount of pipe for my compressed air system. I have a two-car garage with a 60 gallon air compressor outputting about 12cfm @ 90psi. My piping run is about 25 feet and I use 1/2" diameter copper pipe, however, I could have used 3/4" diameter pipe as well. The only reason I didn't was to keep costs down.<br />
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">4.</span> </b>You should aim to use as few elbows, Tee's, and connections as possible. Every single fitting you use contributes to pressure losses in your compressed air system and these should also be considered when choosing your piping size. If you know you are going to need a lot of bends due to the layout of your space, then it is best to go up at least one size in pipe. The table below shows the pressure drop through some common compressed air fittings based on CFM and pipe diameter. (ELL refers to elbows). <br /><br />
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qC_dQZZTEto/Vv-e3a5cIKI/AAAAAAAACYk/kzF8DbpUcIs3pbF1SKu_VAVhQbgOYogOQ/s1600/air%2Bcompressor%2Bpipe%2Bpressure%2Bloss%2Bbends%2Btees.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="air compressor pipe size" border="0" height="284" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qC_dQZZTEto/Vv-e3a5cIKI/AAAAAAAACYk/kzF8DbpUcIs3pbF1SKu_VAVhQbgOYogOQ/s640/air%2Bcompressor%2Bpipe%2Bpressure%2Bloss%2Bbends%2Btees.jpg" title="" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>5.</b></span> The horizontal piping running around your space should not be completely level and instead should be sloped either away from or towards your air compressor. The choice of which way the pipes should slope has been debated about since the beginning of time, so I will leave the option up to you. My thoughts are that it is best to slope away from the compressor, so that the air carries moisture towards the <a href="https://www.amazon.com/ARO-F35341-400-VS-Air-Line-Filter/dp/B0057D8M50/ref=as_li_ss_tl?keywords=air+compressor+filter+1/2&qid=1552886879&refinements=p_85:2470955011&rnid=2470954011&rps=1&s=gateway&sr=8-6&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=0b1c6f6ad1513d95cd6b9fcb2e0c68e3&language=en_US"><b>moisture filter</b></a> or <b><a href="https://www.amazon.com/Forged-Valve-California-Approved-Handle/dp/B077MCJZ4K/ref=as_li_ss_tl?keywords=1/2+ball+valve&qid=1552886541&refinements=p_85:2470955011&rnid=2470954011&rps=1&s=gateway&sr=8-17&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=8e579c900b94e0d6812961265b19a738&language=en_US">drain</a></b>. The most important thing is that the pipe slopes, ideally about 1 inch every 50 feet. The reasoning for this is that you do not want water sitting stagnant anywhere in the pipes, and this is a possibility if the pipes are all level.<br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>6.</b></span> Design your system so that there are no low-spots where water can collect. Air compressor piping should all run from the top down so that gravity can assist water downwards where it can be collected or drained from the system. Horizontal pipes should be run overhead with vertical drops running down to the air outlets. These vertical pipes are called drops and these are where you will connect your filters, air hoses, etc. The amount of drops you have is a personal preference. A shop with multiple workers and a lot of area should have a lot more drops than a home garage. Just keep in mind, that every drop you have should have its own particle/moisture filter to catch any moisture of debris before it runs into your air hoses so there is a higher cost associated with each drop you decide to add.<br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>7.</b></span> Drops should all run off the top of the horizontal pipe and then curve back down. The exception to this is the last drop unless you have a closed loop system. What this means, is that wherever you want a drop, you should have a Tee coming pointing upwards on the horizontal pipe, then two elbows to coming from the Tee to get it pointed downward again, and then you can have your drop. Because you make your air hose connections to the drops, it is best to minimize the amount of water that can enter the drops. With the drops coming off the top of the horizontal run, most of the water in the horizontal run will remain in the horizontal run instead of running down towards your drops. Notice in the picture below, how each drop runs off the top of the horizontal run except for the last one. The last one is where most of the water will collect and it can be drained from the system with a <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Forged-Valve-California-Approved-Handle/dp/B077MCJZ4K/ref=as_li_ss_tl?keywords=1/2+ball+valve&qid=1552886541&refinements=p_85:2470955011&rnid=2470954011&rps=1&s=gateway&sr=8-17&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=76e9353f7c2526c930311f5c0f26254f&language=en_US"><b>ball valve. </b></a><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>8</b>.</span> Each drop should have a length of pipe and a <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Forged-Valve-California-Approved-Handle/dp/B077MCJZ4K/ref=as_li_ss_tl?keywords=1/2+ball+valve&qid=1552886541&refinements=p_85:2470955011&rnid=2470954011&rps=1&s=gateway&sr=8-17&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=76e9353f7c2526c930311f5c0f26254f&language=en_US"><b>ball valve</b></a> at the end to collect and drain water. Also, any connections you make to the drop should Tee off of the side of the drop and run upwards. This further allows gravity to assist in making sure that all of the moisture runs towards the bottom of the drop to be drained. You can see in the picture below how this would work.<br />
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">9</span>.</b> Run at least 25 feet (more is better) of piping before your first drop. This initial piping before the drops allow the hot compressed air to cool down allowing the moisture to condense into a liquid allowing your moisture filters to catch it. <br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>10.</b></span> You should install <b><a href="http://www.amazon.com/Elkhart-Products-Corp-102-1-Copper/dp/B00002N6MG/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1459596091&sr=8-1&keywords=1%2F2%22+copper+unions&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=0ad4c64e5bcf428ef34f4ea1d9676d0d">unions</a></b> in several locations throughout your compressed air piping if using copper, iron, or steel. Unions allow you to easily separate the pipes using a threaded nut. This allows you to easily disassemble your pipes for maintenance, additions, or removal.<img alt="" border="0" height="1" hidden="" src="//ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=powcoathecomg-20&l=li2&o=1&a=B00002N6MG" style="border: medium none; display: none; margin: 0px;" width="1" /><img alt="" border="0" height="1" hidden="" src="//ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=powcoathecomg-20&l=li3&o=1&a=B00002N6MG" style="border: medium none; display: none; margin: 0px;" width="1" /> <br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.amazon.com/Elkhart-Products-Corp-102-1-Copper/dp/B00002N6MG/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1459596091&sr=8-1&keywords=1/2%22+copper+unions&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=755a62000a3e94d02301ea5920fec693" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="https://www.amazon.com/Elkhart-Products-Corp-102-1-Copper/dp/B00002N6MG/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1459596091&sr=8-1&keywords=1/2%22+copper+unions&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=755a62000a3e94d02301ea5920fec693" border="0" height="200" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4oczHD0m8H8/V7YQZtwqnFI/AAAAAAAACpI/eYlrXrxc7ngTUdPbNBv8GEOh6UkXvNw6QCLcB/s200/41WV4KTQNNL.jpg" title="copper pipe union plumbing air comrpessor" width="132" /></a></div><center>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><b>Closed Loop or Linear Compressed Air Plumbing? </b></span></h3>
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This refers to the horizontal run of pipes around your space. A closed loop system runs up from your compressor and Tee's into pipes running in both directions where it meets on the other side of the room. There is no beginning or end, just a continuous loop. This can be seen in the picture below. This setup is ideal for larger garages or shops and especially if there is more than one person using compressed air at the same time. </div>
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-nDhurDWCkYU/Vv-uhE_J-OI/AAAAAAAACZY/qwJfgLgZCkgZKQ6jgBpdpwbwmZdI0zPqg/s1600/air%2Bcompressor%2Bpiping%2Bhalo%2Bloop.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="air compressor piping close loop halo shop" border="0" height="353" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-nDhurDWCkYU/Vv-uhE_J-OI/AAAAAAAACZY/qwJfgLgZCkgZKQ6jgBpdpwbwmZdI0zPqg/w400-h353/air%2Bcompressor%2Bpiping%2Bhalo%2Bloop.jpg" title="" width="400" /></a></div>
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A linear system is what can be found in most home garages. The pipe runs from the compressor and ends somewhere else in the garage. This is fine for one user with a short length of piping that goes that has drops on one or two walls. However, if you have drops on 3 walls in a room with 4 walls, there is no reason not to complete the loop. The benefit of this is that the drop that was originally furthest away from the air compressor with the highest pressure drop, now has a much shorter path to the air compressor and will have much less pressure drop. </div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;">Compressed Air Line Materials</span></h3>
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Air compressor pipes come in many materials, but the most common ones found in a garage or shop are copper, black iron pipe, or a aluminum or polyethylene system like <a href="https://www.amazon.com/RAPIDAIR-FASTPIPE-F28070-Fastpipe-Master/dp/B07F785WJ4/ref=as_li_ss_tl?keywords=rapidair+aluminum&qid=1552886978&s=gateway&sr=8-1&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=61f44394ec1f9b6850c2ebca8b5c8af0&language=en_US"><b>RapidAir</b></a>. Each of these have their pro's and con's. I will review each of these below.<br />
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I do not recommend PVC pipe as it can shatter sending shrapnel through the air. <br />
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<h4 style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: x-large;"><b>Copper Pipe</b></span></h4>
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Copper piping is one of the best choices for affordable compressed air piping. It is my first choice and what I would recommend so it will be discussed more than the other options. It is lightweight, corrosion resistant, somewhat easy to assemble, and has a very smooth bore which reduces frictional pressure losses with air. One of the most beneficial things about copper is that is an excellent material to cool the compressed air flowing through the pipes. This allows the moisture in the air to condense into a liquid allowing you to catch it with a water filter. It is most commonly sold in 10 foot lengths from $14 to $20 depending on which type you get. While the pipes themselves are more expensive than black iron pipe, the fittings are cheaper than iron fittings. One of the downsides to copper pipe is that it must be soldered together. Luckily, all of the tools required to do solder copper pipes and fittings are very cheap and there is not much of a learning curve. The very first copper fitting I ever soldered in my life has never leaked and is still fine to this day.<br />
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<a href="https://www.amazon.com/Type-Hard-length-X-10ft/dp/B00467EFHM/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1459598591&sr=8-2&keywords=copper+1/2+10+ft+type+l&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=47af6a36107e15dd4cd8513aab9e81b3" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="air compressor copper pipe" border="0" height="200" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-d2D6RLERQgo/V7YR61hYKdI/AAAAAAAACpg/PSQ5buTdNCMGRpe4z-ytQs16peddPhgewCLcB/s200/417gi-31bwL.jpg" title="" width="200" /></a><br />
Hard copper pipe comes in three wall thicknesses. Type M is the thinnest, then Type L, and Type K is the thickest. Type M or L pipe will last many years in home garages or shops. I have had no issues with the thinnest <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Type-Hard-length-Water-10ft/dp/B004678IHU/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1459598343&sr=8-1&keywords=copper+1%2F2+10+ft&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=084d3f879ea2ef1d4e18af47a72b44fe"><b>Type M copper pipe</b></a> in my home garage but in a shop, where the copper pipe has more of a chance of being bashed up against by something, <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Type-Hard-length-X-10ft/dp/B00467EFHM/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1459598591&sr=8-2&keywords=copper+1%2F2+10+ft+type+l&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=95a2ed4f40e76247bd34077afea89817"><b>Type L copper pipe</b></a> would be more suitable.<b> </b>If you want to play it very safe and don 't mind spending the extra money, there is <b><a href="http://www.amazon.com/Type-Hard-length-10ft-KH04010/dp/B0078S91YS/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1459599283&sr=8-3&keywords=copper+1%2F2+10+ft+type+k&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=f5796417c6520affb644ab57e77d9422">Type K copper pipe</a></b>.<br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>How to Solder Copper Pipe and Fittings:</b></span><br />
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<b>1.</b> First the copper pipes must be cut to the desired length using an appropriately sized <a href="https://www.amazon.com/RIDGID-32985-Quarters-Tubing-16-inch/dp/B000WT6U8U/ref=as_li_ss_tl?keywords=copper+tube+cutter&qid=1552887210&refinements=p_85:2470955011&rnid=2470954011&rps=1&s=gateway&sr=8-11&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=1126cc37fd7772c8a3fef7d3abb86dfb&language=en_US"><b>tubing cutter</b></a>. <img alt="" border="0" height="1" hidden="" src="//ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=powcoathecomg-20&l=li2&o=1&a=B004Q086QA" style="border: medium none; display: none; margin: 0px;" width="1" /><br />
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<b>2.</b> The cutting will leave an edge on the inside diameter of the pipes that must be removed before soldering, this can be done with a <b><a href="https://www.amazon.com/Wisamic-Stainless-Reamer-16-inch-8-inch/dp/B073B27HCW/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1518335933&sr=8-5&keywords=tubing+reamer&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=bab7594d3fa216a829e89a0f0a295efe">de-burring tool</a></b>.<br />
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3. Once your cut is made, you must remove any oxidation from the pipes where it inserts into the fitting. This should be done by using <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Forney-71805-180-Grit-1-Inch-10-Yard/dp/B000KL1YZO/ref=as_li_ss_tl?dchild=1&keywords=180+grit+emery+cloth&qid=1602439352&sr=8-3&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=bcff169be264e5e410c583414df2ee9c&language=en_US"><b>emery cloth</b></a> on the outside of the copper pipe and the fitting until the copper is shiny. The first inch or so of the inside of the pipes and fitting also need to be cleaned until shiny. This can be done with an appropriately sized <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Pipe-Cleaner-Tool-Different-Instillation/dp/B01GOY3CGE/ref=as_li_ss_tl?keywords=plumber+brush&qid=1552887380&refinements=p_85:2470955011&rnid=2470954011&rps=1&s=gateway&sr=8-3&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=bfcf14d2750f7bd3112f0e05a7415a3f&language=en_US"><b>wire brush</b></a> that fits your pipe.<br />
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<b>4.</b> Now that your pipes are cut and cleaned, you will apply a very light coat of<b> <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Oatey-30372-Tinning-Flux-8-Ounce/dp/B00176KQ32/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1459602312&sr=8-1&keywords=lead+free+tinning+flux&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=e870859fc5278e9a9ad2734a06bb0fb6">soldering flux</a></b> on the outside of the copper pipes and on the inside of the fitting. This only needs to be applied where the two meet together. Do this for each pipe and you can then press them together. Make sure the pipe is fully seated into the fitting before continuing. Wipe off any excess flux. I highly recommend the tinning flux linked above as it is very easy to get a leak free solder joint. <br />
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<b>5.</b> You must prepare the entire fitting before soldering. If you are using an elbow fitting, you must have two copper pipes prepped, fluxed, and inserted into each end of the elbow before soldering. If using a 3-way tee fitting, then three copper pipes prepped, fluxed, and inserted into each hole before soldering and so on. You do not have to build your entire piping system all at once before soldering, but the fitting must be completely assembled.<br />
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<b>6.</b> To do the actual soldering, you will need a <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Bernzomatic-TS4000-Trigger-Start-Torch/dp/B00008ZA09/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1459602709&sr=8-6&keywords=propane+torch&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=6f5b1b42d4dbccda882c6074fc254cd1"><b>propane torch head</b></a> and <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Standard-Propane-Fuel-Cylinder-Pack/dp/B00O4D1CUG/ref=as_li_ss_tl?keywords=propane+torch&qid=1552887465&s=gateway&sr=8-11&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=e6bfc30b3ea5e4bdac63d6f49985fb2e&language=en_US"><b>propane cylinder</b></a>. While the heads are cheaper online, the propane tanks are only about $4 at your local hardware store. You will use your propane torch to heat up the middle of the copper fitting, do not aim it at the solder joint. Unroll a length of <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Oatey-50684-Safe-Flo-Silver-Plumbing/dp/B000BQOAEK/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1460107638&sr=8-2&keywords=copper+pipe+solder&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=68ea963256f47a8a7ec413ff0dfdb77c"><b>solder</b></a> and hold it on the joint on the opposite side of the flame. Once the joint is hot enough, the solder and start to flow into the joint. Start to move the solder around the joint until the entire joint is soldered. You do not want to add too much as it can glob up inside the joint. Once you finish soldering one side of the finish, move your copper to the next side of the same fitting and repeat. Once all sides of the one fitting are soldered, you can remove the torch from the joint. If the next joint you are about to solder is close to the previous joint, you can wrap a wet rag around the completed joint to keep it from re-melting. If you have to solder close to a wall you can hang up a <b><a href="http://www.amazon.com/Inch-High-Temp-Felt-Plumber/dp/B00EAR3ST4/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1459604017&sr=8-9&keywords=soldering+mat+pipe&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=ad92f63103c3978523382d213b3b8d53">soldering pad</a></b> on the wall to prevent burning the place down.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-KqyJhQxhONA/Vv_Hoh7n2gI/AAAAAAAACZo/_VN0Q6Yt1iAoChs9iKMA8R-LYadEpxt5w/s1600/soldering%2Bcopper%2Bpipe.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="soldering copper pipe" border="0" height="480" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-KqyJhQxhONA/Vv_Hoh7n2gI/AAAAAAAACZo/_VN0Q6Yt1iAoChs9iKMA8R-LYadEpxt5w/w640-h480/soldering%2Bcopper%2Bpipe.jpeg" title="" width="640" /></a></div><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-RHQti3JL3DU/Vv_HtArZH1I/AAAAAAAACZs/cTG_IKjpDgUIBs5A2nFh8vRTeNlEvQLHg/s1600/soldering%2Bcopper%2Bpipe.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="soldering copper pipe too much solder" border="0" height="251" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-RHQti3JL3DU/Vv_HtArZH1I/AAAAAAAACZs/cTG_IKjpDgUIBs5A2nFh8vRTeNlEvQLHg/w320-h251/soldering%2Bcopper%2Bpipe.jpg" title="" width="320" /></a></div>
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<b>7.</b> Once your solder joint is completed, wipe the joint with a damp rag to remove any excess flux. The flux is acidic and if left on the pipe, can cause corrosion. Also inspect the solder joint to ensure that is filled in completely.<br />
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Here is an excellent video to watch before you start soldering:<br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/zqhmKshcPt0" width="560"></iframe></center>
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It seems like a lot of steps but once you get the process down, it really is not difficult. I did all of my copper air compressor plumbing for the first time in one night, and I have never had a leak. <br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Constructing Copper Pipe Plumbing</b></span><br />
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Selecting the copper fittings you need for your air compressor plumbing is also pretty simple. The most important thing is to size your fittings according to the diameter of copper pipe that you chose. 1/2" pipe fits 1/2" fittings, 3/4" pipe fits 3/4" fittings, etc. Easy stuff. Here are some basic fittings that you will need to plumb your air compressor, all example links and pictures are 1/2" size:<br />
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<b><a href="https://www.amazon.com/Everflow-Supplies-CCLN0012-Degree-Fitting/dp/B07SKRSLPG/ref=as_li_ss_tl?dchild=1&keywords=copper+elbow+fitting+1/2%22&qid=1602439536&sr=8-2&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=12000f2ba3e095d49f062c01d8b78b06&language=en_US">90 Degree Copper Elbows</a> </b><br />
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<b><a href="https://www.amazon.com/Everflow-Supplies-CCLN0012-Degree-Fitting/dp/B07SKRSLPG/ref=as_li_ss_tl?dchild=1&keywords=copper+elbow+fitting+1/2%22&qid=1602439536&sr=8-2&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=12000f2ba3e095d49f062c01d8b78b06&language=en_US"><img alt="air compressor copper pipe elbow" border="0" height="200" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MBkXjyiqnC4/V7YSI4GSRNI/AAAAAAAACpk/EzvUnDKnUDUgVmO27OcuOnkzwXL7zxY5gCLcB/s200/51RzpGXwKML.jpg" title="" width="200" /></a></b></div>
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These are pretty self-explanatory. They come in short radius and long radius. The longer radius elbows flow a little better and are a little more expensive.<br />
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<b><a href="https://www.amazon.com/Everflow-Supplies-CCTE0012-Fitting-Solder/dp/B01BTYR6AW/ref=as_li_ss_tl?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1518335858&sr=1-5&keywords=copper+tee+1/2&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=584daaf52fda5deafa48fedaee469064">Copper Tee Fitting</a></b><br />
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<a href="https://www.amazon.com/Everflow-Supplies-CCTE0012-Fitting-Solder/dp/B01BTYR6AW/ref=as_li_ss_tl?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1518335858&sr=1-5&keywords=copper+tee+1/2&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=584daaf52fda5deafa48fedaee469064"><img alt="air compressor copper tee" border="0" height="150" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-FGtreh_5XeA/V7YSXsEOTRI/AAAAAAAACps/b1SwIOjje84bByKPCyyN1Avk8jhCZPSJwCLcB/s200/61mbn1Xva8L._SL1280_.jpg" title="" width="200" /></a></div>
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These can come in one uniform size such as 1/2" x 12" x 1/2" or they can have a combination of sizes in one fitting such as 3/4" x 1/2" x 3/4". If using 3/4" or 1" piping, you can neck down to 1/2" copper piping for the drops unless you have a very large compressor and are moving some serious air. The picture below shows a piping zig-zag which is used to cool the compressed air in an effort to remove moisture. You can see where the tee fittings are needed.<br />
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Ifsghc2G2Qg/VwePOSQdM1I/AAAAAAAACaY/8Yjj7WMWeTcfxAYGXpTsy5sOKoOsxW9LA/s1600/air%2Bcompressor%2Bpiping3.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="air compressor water moisture removal zig zag pipe" border="0" height="475" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Ifsghc2G2Qg/VwePOSQdM1I/AAAAAAAACaY/8Yjj7WMWeTcfxAYGXpTsy5sOKoOsxW9LA/s640/air%2Bcompressor%2Bpiping3.png" title="" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://www.amazon.com/Elkhart-Products-30436-2-Inch-Adapter/dp/B000BOABMW/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1464239574&sr=8-1&keywords=copper+fittings&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=153e13678dd7258e830f502e6c745700"><b>Copper Male Threaded Fitting</b></a><br />
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<a href="https://www.amazon.com/Elkhart-Products-30436-2-Inch-Adapter/dp/B000BOABMW/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1464239574&sr=8-1&keywords=copper+fittings&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=45d59efe60e5bb1340dfb5f0b2865b3a"><img alt="https://www.amazon.com/Elkhart-Products-30436-2-Inch-Adapter/dp/B000BOABMW/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1464239574&sr=8-1&keywords=copper+fittings&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=45d59efe60e5bb1340dfb5f0b2865b3a" border="0" height="155" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-8PUp2MI44io/V7YSo_pdK1I/AAAAAAAACpw/TBkXs9sz3tQCswgPHh1eEGa5xe6qq_1LQCLcB/s200/71TH2SnPCmL._SL1414_.jpg" title="air compressor npt fitting male copper" width="200" /></a></div>
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The male threaded fittings allow you to make connections to anything with female NPT threads. This includes air filters, water separators, hose reels, ball valves, etc.<br />
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<a href="https://www.amazon.com/Highcraft-HBE-CP12-10-Hanger-Copper-Coated/dp/B07VZJ5MK2/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=copper+pipe+bell+hanger+pack&qid=1602439595&sr=8-1"><b>Copper Pipe Wall Mounts</b></a><br />
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<a href="https://www.amazon.com/Highcraft-HBE-CP12-10-Hanger-Copper-Coated/dp/B07VZJ5MK2/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=copper+pipe+bell+hanger+pack&qid=1602439595&sr=8-1"><img alt="best copper pipe wall mounts" border="0" height="155" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-bjKghdLxIK0/V7YS6rFgeaI/AAAAAAAACp0/-MccD_xRGCME_eEyFL9xmojwQVQQGTywACLcB/s200/41T3uILvUUL.jpg" title="" width="200" /></a></div>
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These are not a fitting, but are very handy for mounting your copper pipe to the wall and they are very cheap. They mount the pipe away from the wall so you don't have to worry about vibrations. These mount to the wall with a single screw. Ideally you would mount these to the studs in your walls, which can be located easily with a <a href="https://www.amazon.com/CH-Hanson-03040-Magnetic-Finder/dp/B000IKK0OI/ref=as_li_ss_tl?dchild=1&keywords=stud+finder&qid=1602439803&sr=8-10&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=fe18a64ba9b035f356c89e107552062f&language=en_US" target="_blank">magnetic stud finder</a>. However, if that is not possible, they can be mounted anywhere on drywall with some <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Drilling-Drywall-Plastic-Anchors-Screws/dp/B01FCZ8I3I/ref=as_li_ss_tl?dchild=1&keywords=drywall+anchor&qid=1602439670&sr=8-3&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=580a68decca5a2d1d6c16970668d081c&language=en_US">standard drywall anchors</a>. <br />
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-AtPbafUwLiQ/V0aJaYDM-0I/AAAAAAAACdg/ygDQ0jzL6CERujrTEAUhVGfE9r823K6rgCLcB/s1600/1%2B%252812%2529.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="copper pipe wall mounting bells" border="0" height="400" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-AtPbafUwLiQ/V0aJaYDM-0I/AAAAAAAACdg/ygDQ0jzL6CERujrTEAUhVGfE9r823K6rgCLcB/s400/1%2B%252812%2529.JPG" title="" width="225" /></a></div>
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<img alt="" border="0" height="1" hidden="" src="//ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=powcoathecomg-20&l=li1&o=1&a=B00NAQJPAM" style="border: medium none; display: none; margin: 0px;" width="1" /><br />
That pretty much sums of copper pipe as a way to plumb your air compressor throughout your work space. With the above info, you should have just about everything you need to get design and assemble your compressors plumbing. Now onto the other popular choice for plumbing.<br />
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<h2 style="text-align: left;">
<b><span style="font-size: x-large;">Black Iron Pipe</span></b></h2>
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-2SPZq45UF30/V0aOtx97Z2I/AAAAAAAACd4/P6ijoWaV4DgI_ZmRliWeIiUSIDZQ9_OnQCLcB/s1600/AirCompressor%2Bblack%2Biron%2Bpipe%2Bplumbing.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="air compressor black iron pipe" border="0" height="480" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-2SPZq45UF30/V0aOtx97Z2I/AAAAAAAACd4/P6ijoWaV4DgI_ZmRliWeIiUSIDZQ9_OnQCLcB/s640/AirCompressor%2Bblack%2Biron%2Bpipe%2Bplumbing.jpg" title="" width="640" /></a></div>
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<b><span style="font-size: x-large;"> </span></b></h2>
<b><a href="http://www.homedepot.com/p/1-2-in-x-120-in-Black-Steel-10-ft-Sch-40-Pipe-314-12X120/100553686">Black iron pipe</a></b> is another popular choice for plumbing an air compressor. It can be slightly cheaper than copper piping and it is very heavy duty. Instead of needing to be soldered together like copper pipe, it is threaded together. You can buy it at the local hardware store in 10 foot sections.<br />
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The downside of black iron pipe is that the interior of the pipe is prone to corrosion from the moisture your air compressor produces. They will still last a very long time, but a good air filter is a must to catch any debris from the pipes corroding. Another downside is the tools needed to assemble them which can be somewhat expensive. These pipes need to be threaded in order to assemble and they must be tightened very tight to keep them from leaking. You will need some specialized tools to thread black iron pipe, or another option is if you purchase it locally at Home Depot or Lowes, they will cut and thread the pipe to your specifications for free as long as you buy the pipe from them. Call your local store to confirm that they do this before planning out your black iron pipe plumbing.<br />
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If you decide you want to tackle threading the pipes yourself to avoid a bunch of trips to Home Depot, you will need an appropriately sized <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Ridgid-32820-8-Inch-2-Inch-Cutter/dp/B001ASEX90/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&refRID=1B52ZJ8QDX49K6KZHZ4Z&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=028d74ee8f321ae28a26efefff7be3ce"><b>tubing cutter</b></a> to cut the pipe to the desired length, an appropriately sized<b> <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Westward-3CYV4-Spiral-Ratchet-Reamer/dp/B001QRJ0MU/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1464242369&sr=8-1&keywords=ratcheting+pipe+reamer&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=e63efa6f6cc49be0956797824bdb03b8">pipe reamer</a></b> to deburr and smooth the cut, and an appropriately sized <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Ridgid-36345-Capacity-Exposed-Threader/dp/B000GATF2S/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1464241425&sr=8-2&keywords=pipe+threader&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=d1a85013c84cc21fe0b1dad7b6972771"><b>pipe threader</b></a> to cut threads into the pipe. You will also need<b> <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Ridgid-70830-Dark-Threading-1-Gallon/dp/B0002YPMUM/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1464243213&sr=8-2&keywords=thread+cutting+oil&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=884fcbd2a07c5075ab5db64a55ba2374">pipe threading oil</a></b> to lubricate and cool the tool as its threading. Harbor Freight also sells a discounted pipe threader if you want to try that route, just make sure to save your receipt because it doesn't have the best reviews. <br />
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<a href="https://www.amazon.com/Ridgid-32820-8-Inch-2-Inch-Cutter/dp/B001ASEX90/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&refRID=0E08MEYW9BTBNC4NWGTC&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=f5e03299029632fe9c1dc36c54c46f6a" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="cutting black iron pipe" border="0" height="200" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SWnfLUVWcs4/V7YTHI1lVQI/AAAAAAAACp8/zOOxaFAjYdMjqn_q_-GFfPjsr9JHdNm1QCLcB/s200/41lXrpv3o-L.jpg" title="" width="200" /></a><a href="https://www.amazon.com/Ridgid-36345-Capacity-Exposed-Threader/dp/B000GATF2S/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1464241425&sr=8-2&keywords=pipe+threader&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=2a8474a8ad663d474541af6d52399208" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="https://www.amazon.com/Ridgid-36345-Capacity-Exposed-Threader/dp/B000GATF2S/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1464241425&sr=8-2&keywords=pipe+threader&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=2a8474a8ad663d474541af6d52399208" border="0" height="216" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qEoFWBrIc_0/V7YTdPU6-kI/AAAAAAAACqE/UgE2dQED37E-Or08dlZi1qDG0kyoc2UpQCLcB/s320/81EpHdkerZL._SL1500_.jpg" title="diy threading black iron pipe" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://www.amazon.com/Westward-3CYV4-Spiral-Ratchet-Reamer/dp/B001QRJ0MU/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1464242369&sr=8-1&keywords=ratcheting+pipe+reamer&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=5f01965ae4d7039018c04f2af67cb838" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="threading black iron pipe" border="0" height="188" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xFmu4DUZmas/V7YTUcW79iI/AAAAAAAACqA/dYTBiWoallcPrnjcuRwwrJy-xyUN2PBqwCLcB/s200/21OXGe0rBBL.jpg" title="" width="200" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://www.amazon.com/Anvil-8700163101-Malleable-Fitting-Female/dp/B0058DQGF2/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1464243472&sr=8-1&keywords=iron+pipe+union&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=c1baf59962636de698812ce944bbfcbd" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="black iron pipe union fitting high quality" border="0" height="200" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-CwAbg2MUmXs/V7YT9wVlWjI/AAAAAAAACqQ/hvX7mYLnrl4Nx1vgiyi6_loTSF41XSGPgCLcB/s200/415f-40aD4L.jpg" title="" width="200" /></a>Once you have your threaded pipes and fittings, you can begin assembly. Make sure to include lots of <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Anvil-8700163101-Malleable-Fitting-Female/dp/B0058DQGF2/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1464243472&sr=8-1&keywords=iron+pipe+union&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=ee35ba309bb64167cb93c7b20647f12e"><b>union fittings</b></a> throughout the system. If you don't use any union fittings and you decide you want to do something like add a quick connect fitting in the middle of the system, you will have to take apart all of the piping, starting from the end, up until that point. And then reassemble it all. A set of union fittings allows you to make changes within the plumbing without needing to do lots of dissembling.<br />
<b></b><br />
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To assemble the pipes, you will need at least 2 <b><a href="http://www.amazon.com/Ridgid-31015-12-Inch-Heavy-Duty-Straight/dp/B0000224J7/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1464244749&sr=8-5&keywords=pipe+wrench&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=a701c31737375c55177d6bdf3c4a0e0f">pipe wrenches</a></b> to tighten the pipes together. You will also need <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Dixon-Valve-TTB75-Industrial-Temperature/dp/B003D7K8E0/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1464243973&sr=8-3&keywords=teflon+tape&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=a10d84c9412e4b91e1ad7f7e6612f923"><b>teflon tape</b></a> or <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Oatey-31230-Joint-Compound-fl-Ounce/dp/B000KKVWL6/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1464243329&sr=8-2&keywords=pipe+dope&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=45f2c523114fc316d8e49dab477d80e2"><b>pipe joint compound</b></a>, commonly referred to as pipe dope, to make the threaded connections air-tight. Pipe dope seems to be superior to eflon tape as it usually seals better and there is no risk of little shreds of teflon tape running through the plumbing and getting caught in your air tools. When assembling the pipes and fittings, you apply the pipe dope to both the male and female threaded sections of the pipe and hand tighten them. Then tighten a pipe wrench around the pipe and another one around the fitting and tighten the crap out of them. <br />
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-mQhJjmxkY_Y/V0aaaLjIZWI/AAAAAAAACeQ/n0vP-jWn-Y8bBYE3J_fAymdvOG6EDhnxgCLcB/s1600/black%2Biron%2Bpipe%2Bair%2Bcompressor%2Bwrench.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="tightening black iron pipe leaks" border="0" height="400" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-mQhJjmxkY_Y/V0aaaLjIZWI/AAAAAAAACeQ/n0vP-jWn-Y8bBYE3J_fAymdvOG6EDhnxgCLcB/s400/black%2Biron%2Bpipe%2Bair%2Bcompressor%2Bwrench.jpg" title="" width="400" /></a></div>
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Keep in mind that black iron pipe is heavy and it needs to be securely mounted to the wall. I would recommend mounting it directly to the studs whenever possible.<br />
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<h3 style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: x-large;">RapidAir Systems: Aluminum or Polyethylene</span></h3>
<h3 style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: x-large;"> </span></h3>
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ne9w02VorpM/V0agkZWLSuI/AAAAAAAACeo/ojn92oaM6lYL9OsPZbArWghdCAg4wsTBQCLcB/s1600/rapidair%2Bair%2Bcompressor%2Bplumbing.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="air compressor plumbing aluminum pipe rapid air" border="0" height="478" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ne9w02VorpM/V0agkZWLSuI/AAAAAAAACeo/ojn92oaM6lYL9OsPZbArWghdCAg4wsTBQCLcB/s640/rapidair%2Bair%2Bcompressor%2Bplumbing.JPG" title="" width="640" /></a></div>
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RapidAir among other companies offer ready-made kits that offer a several lengths of pipe and decent selection of fittings. They make these kits with either <b><a href="https://www.amazon.com/RAPIDAIR-FASTPIPE-F28070-Fastpipe-Master/dp/B07F785WJ4/ref=as_li_ss_tl?keywords=rapidair+aluminum&qid=1552886978&s=gateway&sr=8-1&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=4a126a33378b99c56a33c7acc57c648f&language=en_US">aluminum pipe</a></b> (RapidAir FastPipe) or <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Maxline-M7500-Master-4-Inch-100-Feet/dp/B005FKYRTU/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1464246268&sr=8-2&keywords=rapidair&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=ded43db987738cc840dcbca507fcf18f"><b>polyethylene tubing</b></a> (RapidAir Maxline). I strongly recommend the aluminum pipe over the polyethylene kit. The polyethylene material does have a thin layer of aluminum sandwiched in the middle of the material but it is more to give the pipe form and not so much for helping to absorb heat from the compressed air. Removing heat from the compressed air allows the moisture to drop out of suspension where it can be caught by a water separator.<br />
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<a href="https://www.amazon.com/RAPIDAIR-FASTPIPE-F28070-Fastpipe-Master/dp/B07F785WJ4/ref=as_li_ss_tl?keywords=rapidair+aluminum&qid=1552886978&s=gateway&sr=8-1&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=4a126a33378b99c56a33c7acc57c648f&language=en_US" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="rapidair diy aluminum air compressor piping system" border="0" height="200" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0yU1OOmYnfI/V7YUVgzXxaI/AAAAAAAACqc/2ipPoa-wuTkOQZiLb5-puIemU5tXEpbvwCLcB/s200/914zZ0AL5%252BL._SL1500_.jpg" title="" width="154" /></a>The aluminum FastPipe systems from rapid air are a very nice kit however. Aluminum is very good at absorbing the heat from the compressed air allowing the moisture to drop out of suspension and it is a nice and lightweight material that is resistant to corrosion. The pipe comes in either 3/4" or 1" so is suitable for large air compressors. The system looks very professional and systems like it are often used in large manufacturing plants. The piping is also powder coated blue, so the slight chance of the aluminum ever corroding is not a worry. Another great thing compared to the other piping materials is that you don't really need any specialized tools with this kit.<br />
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The downside of the aluminum RapidAir system is that it is a little more expensive than assembling your own copper pipe or black iron pipe system. All the components available in the system are sold individually if you ever want to expand or change your compressed air plumbing, however they are somewhat costly and not much is available locally. Other than those couple of cons, it is a very nice system and looks great in any shop / garage.<br />
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<h2 style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-large;"> Conclusion</span></h2>
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<span style="font-size: large;">With the advice from this article, you should be well on your way to setting up the plumbing for your air compressor. Remember that a good compressed air system can make life much easier while powder coating in your garage or shop. You can design a system that eliminates moisture in your compressed air and also offers you convenient quick connect couplers wherever you need them. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><br />
</span> <span style="font-size: large;">To help design the system, make sure to also read <a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2014/06/how-to-dry-compressed.html#.V0akS761iW9">How to Dry Compressed Air</a> as the concepts from that article should be included in your plumbing design. If you have not yet purchased an air compressor, check out <a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2013/10/choosing-air-compressor.html#.V0alPr61iW9">Choosing an Air Compressor</a>. </span><br />
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Thanks for reading!</span><br />
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Start off by hanging your part on some type of rack with a clean metal hook. If you are grounding your part through your rack, the hook must be clean and free of coatings in order to transfer the ground to your part. Ideally you should have plenty of lighting to easily see every area of the part. However, it is also very helpful to have an LED flashlight handy.<br />
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It is best to shoot powder coat in some kind of booth to keep your work clean and prevent over-spray from going all over your garage / shop. You can make a home-made booth using cardboard boxes, wood, or anything you can think of. A box fan with a furnace filter can be placed on the back wall of the booth to catch overspray. If you have a powder coating shop, you can buy purpose-built powder coating booths or build a small clean room. It is important to be in a clean area to prevent crap from getting onto your parts as you are spraying. Make sure to shower or spray yourself off with air before coating as a lot of contaminants will transfer from you to your work. I have recommended several safety items near the bottom of the article that will protect you while you are powder coating. <br />
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<h4 style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-large;">Adjusting the Powder Coating Gun</span></h4>
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The adjustments for your gun are completely dependent on the type of gun you have. If you are using the <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004YEAYCW/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B004YEAYCW&linkCode=as2&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=JGGCUJFZIN6BBYKJ" target="_blank">Craftsman Powder Coating Gun</a>, there are no adjustments or air pressures to set. However, all other powder coating guns require you to at least set the air pressure going into the gun. Powder Coating uses very low pressures. Most often, you will be using the 5-10psi range. When shooting complicated parts with lots of recessed areas (Faraday cage areas), it is best to set the psi just high enough for the powder to spray out of the gun. Lower PSI will help to achieve coverage in the Faraday areas. The best way to set the pressure on your gun is with a wall mounted regulator but keep in mind that there will be pressure loss through an air hose so setting the wall regulator to 8 psi will not produce 8psi at the gun. You can overcome this by using an inline air pressure gauge right before the gun or just trial and error. Trial and error involves adjusting the regulator from 5 psi up until the gun produces a good powder cloud. You can also use a <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002XMS75I/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B002XMS75I&linkCode=as2&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=2A472AXTLLHLDVMB" target="_blank">mini regulator</a> right before the gun. <br />
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<h4>
<span style="font-size: large;">KV</span></h4>
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Higher end powder coating guns will have adjustable KV (Kilovolts) settings. The higher the KV setting, the better the transfer efficiency, as in more powder will stick to the part instead of becoming over spray. However, higher is not always better. If you are shooting a large flat panel, it is best to crank up the KV setting up to 100KV, just make sure that you are keeping adequate distance between the gun and the part (~8 inches). Higher KV settings commonly cause a defect known as back ionization which will appear as tiny dimples the coating.<br />
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You would use less KV for a more complex part. The more complex the part is, the less KV you want to use. 50KV is a good average for shooting first coats on most parts. If you are having trouble getting powder into a Faraday area, turn the KV down, less is more in this case. When shooting a 2nd coat, always turn the KV down to 20 or 30. This will allow easier attraction between the powder and the part. If you are using the popular <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002XE4LNS/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B002XE4LNS&linkCode=as2&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=GSPW6LULUSEKH53I" target="_blank">Eastwood Dual Voltage Powder Coating Gun</a>, it is adjustable to either 15KV or 25KV. You can complete most powder coating jobs with the 25KV setting, and lower it to 15KV when shooting 2nd coats or if you are having trouble getting powder into a Faraday area.<br />
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Professional powder coating guns will offer several more settings and a selections of nozzles to suit every powder coating job. However, these settings cannot easily be explained for all the different types of guns there are out there and if you spent several thousand dollars on one of these guns, it is best to thoroughly go over the instructions or have a rep come out and teach you how to properly adjust your gun. <br />
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<h4 style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-large;">The Correct Spraying Technique</span></h4>
<h4 style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-large;"> </span></h4>
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After you have the gun adjusted correctly, it is time to start spraying the powder. Before you actually begin spraying the powder, look at the part and plan out a course that you will follow when shooting the part. It is best practice to spray any Faraday areas first and then move onto the flatter areas of the part. As a part is covered in powder, a charge will build up, and this charge will make the Faraday areas even more difficult to spray into. That is why you spray them first. </div>
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Once you have your course mapped out, you will begin by spraying the powder coating gun away from the part until a nice even, non-sputtering cloud is being sprayed. This should take a second at most. Then you will move the gun to the part and it is best to keep the trigger pressed until you have achieved full coverage on the entire part. It is best to operate in a slow, controlled motion throughout the part, keeping a gun-to-part distance of 6 to 8 inches. Instead of erratically spraying the gun all around the part, attempt to achieve full coverage with 1 pass throughout the whole part. </div>
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Once you have completed your spraying, you can confirm that you have full coverage by going over the whole part with a bright <a href="https://www.amazon.com/GearLight-Tactical-Flashlight-S1000-PACK/dp/B072WHQFJ7/ref=as_li_ss_tl?keywords=led+flashlight&qid=1552888019&refinements=p_85:2470955011&rnid=2470954011&rps=1&s=gateway&sr=8-4&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=0d58f0aecdb17cc297bc6b14463a3696&language=en_US" target="_blank">LED flashlight</a>. However, when I personally like to keep the flashlight pointed at the part the entire time I am spraying. The flashlight will show any areas where bare metal may still be showing through. These spots do not have full coverage, and if the part where cured in this state, they would have a very textured look in that area. Touch up any bare metal spots you see with the flashlight before curing the part in the oven. </div>
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<b>Faraday Area Tips:</b> When using a hobbyist powder coating gun, it is often very difficult to get powder into Faraday areas even with all of the right conditions. The following techniques should allow you achieve coverage in these areas. Try some or all of them until you find something that works for you.<br />
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1. Ground your parts using a <a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2012/12/7-grounding.html#.XI8xErh7mUl" target="_blank">dedicated grounding rod</a>. Wet the ground around the rod for better efficiency. <br />
2. Make sure to spray these areas first.<br />
3. Try lowering the PSI to the powder coating gun for these areas.<br />
4. Turn down the KV if possible.<br />
5. Try aiming around the area instead of directly into it<br />
6. Try touching the corner of the part with a clean bare hand while shooting these areas. <br />
7. If all else fails, use a <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004Q04X44/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B004Q04X44&linkCode=as2&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=VRIA5WJ5FRQUD2MB" target="_blank">heat-gun</a> to heat this area of the part and then spray the powder. </div>
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<h4 style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-large;">Eliminating Orange Peel </span></h4>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"> </span></h4>
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Achieving the right amount of powder on the part is very important for durability reasons as well as eliminating orange peel. If you spray too little powder on the part, you will most likely end up with a grainy texture to the powder also known as "tight orange peel." This is because there was not enough powder on the part for it to flow-out and create a uniform coating. Besides the poor aesthetics of this, the part will likely start to rust or oxidize in these areas because air is allowed to contact the bare metal still. Using an LED flashlight is the east way to overcome this. </div>
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If you spray too much powder on the part, you will most likely end up with large wavy orange peel. The excessive thickness of the powder will also make the part more prone to chipping. </div>
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Achieving the perfect powder thickness, not too light and not too heavy will take some practice. Make sure to take note of any orange peel you get and keep in mind that you need to shoot the next part heavier or lighter. I have found a somewhat reliable method of keeping an LED flashlight on the part the entire time that I am spraying. As soon as the flashlight no longer reveals bare metal in a spot, that is the perfect amount of powder and I do not spray any more powder. </div>
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<a href="https://www.amazon.com/Gain-Express-Thickness-0-1250um-CM-8825FN/dp/B00MNEA5QA/ref=as_li_ss_tl?keywords=mil+thickness+gauge+powder+coating&qid=1552888131&refinements=p_72:2661618011&rnid=2661617011&s=gateway&sr=8-5&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=a0a3d014a87db3c380d40e8f1c325c9b&language=en_US" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="https://www.amazon.com/Gain-Express-Thickness-0-1250um-CM-8825FN/dp/B00MNEA5QA/ref=as_li_ss_tl?keywords=mil+thickness+gauge+powder+coating&qid=1552888131&refinements=p_72:2661618011&rnid=2661617011&s=gateway&sr=8-5&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=a0a3d014a87db3c380d40e8f1c325c9b&language=en_US" border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="1024" height="320" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-_etBMO9dQrE/XI8xcHciGYI/AAAAAAAAESk/BCrq-XL12400XJ20Xgj7uG3B2hbsKhwWQCLcBGAs/s320/powder%2Bcoating%2Bthickness%2Bgauge.jpg" width="320" /></a>A more reliable and scientific approach to this is measuring the thickness of the powder with a Mil Thickness Gauge. This can only be done after the powder is cured in the oven. If you are serious about powder coating, I strongly recommend adding this tool to your collection. If you are powder coating for customers, I would say it is a requirement. The price of these has come down drastically over the past couple of years and it will allow you to read the thickness of a coating. It is best to get one that works on ferrous (steel, iron) and non-ferrous (aluminum, magnesium) metals. This <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Gain-Express-Thickness-0-1250um-CM-8825FN/dp/B00MNEA5QA/ref=as_li_ss_tl?keywords=mil+thickness+gauge+powder+coating&qid=1552888131&refinements=p_72:2661618011&rnid=2661617011&s=gateway&sr=8-5&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=a0a3d014a87db3c380d40e8f1c325c9b&language=en_US" target="_blank">mil thickness gauge</a> reads both and it also has v-groove probes which allows you to make your readings on curved parts.To use this properly, you would shoot a part as you normally would, cure it in the oven, and then read the thickness. All powers will have a recommended mil thickness range usually between 2.0 to 3.0 mils. As long as the mil-thickness you read falls into the range, the part has the right amount of powder on it. If it is too little or too much, make the necessary adjustments the next time you powder coat. This is the best and fastest way to learn how much powder needs to be applied. </div>
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<b>Extra Tip:</b> To achieve mirror-like coating, completely free of orange peel, I have had great success with this method, especially using gloss black.<br />
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1. Shoot the powder just like normal.<br />
2. Put the part in the oven and set the temp to 245 degrees F.<br />
3. As soon as the powder looks wet, remove the part.<br />
4. Immediately spray a very light coat, just enough to not see a reflection.<br />
5. Insert the part back in the oven and do a full cure. <br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RsZcZjAYJfs/VWgkhh7gLgI/AAAAAAAAB7A/zgkL6RqE16s/s1600/powder%2Bcoat%2Bgloss%2Bblack.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Powder coated wiper motor - Gloss Black no orange peel" border="0" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RsZcZjAYJfs/VWgkhh7gLgI/AAAAAAAAB7A/zgkL6RqE16s/s320/powder%2Bcoat%2Bgloss%2Bblack.JPG" title="Powder coated wiper motor - Gloss Black" width="190" /></a></div>
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<h4 style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: large;"> </span></h4>
<h4 style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-large;">Spraying Powder Coat Safely</span></h4>
<h4 style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-large;">(Personal Protection Equipment) </span></h4>
<h4 style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-large;"> </span></h4>
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Before you begin to any powder coating job, it is important to protect yourself. Powder is not nearly as toxic as liquid paints but it is still important to keep it off of your skin, out of your eyes, and out of your lungs. There are different levels of protection depending on your level of powder coating. The weekend warrior can get away with the bare essentials. However the professional coater that powders coats 50 hours a week should aim for complete protection.<br />
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<b>Hobbyist Coater:</b> I recommend a <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004Z4EB/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00004Z4EB&linkCode=as2&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=NHLRCER5DALPSU2F" target="_blank">3M respirator</a>, <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Stealth-Goggles-Anti-Fog-Anti-Scratch-S3970DF/dp/B003U9VE94/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1471606195&sr=8-1&keywords=amazon+chemical+splash+goggles&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=4f4de1d135517557cb9759a8b9752bdc">safety goggles</a>, a long-sleeve shirt and some <a href="https://www.amazon.com/1st-Choice-Industrial-Nitrile-Gloves/dp/B07VYNXB19/ref=as_li_ss_tl?dchild=1&keywords=nitrile+gloves&qid=1602440356&sr=8-9&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=372cf0d981fb2c9132cceb74c4ee05a8&language=en_US" target="_blank">disposable gloves</a>. </div>
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<a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004Z4EB/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=f7a68735db846686e4767855f23115b2" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating saftey respirator" border="0" height="232" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-jtITR9bYdOI/V7bs8B26S0I/AAAAAAAACr4/6gys7CeA1lsRMRdG0aDefYILo6hKQsNHQCEw/s320/81-KUZfrylL._SL1500_.jpg" title="" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://www.amazon.com/1st-Choice-Industrial-Nitrile-Gloves/dp/B07VYNXB19/ref=as_li_ss_tl?dchild=1&keywords=nitrile+gloves&qid=1602440356&sr=8-9&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=372cf0d981fb2c9132cceb74c4ee05a8&language=en_US" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating disposable gloves" border="0" height="200" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-MQgJEmlYCLc/V7bs759TNkI/AAAAAAAACrs/IJ7eWxlTyH8T8lena1W4Q6807owX3NL8QCEw/s200/41UYb-EQvaL.jpg" title="" width="193" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://www.amazon.com/Stealth-Goggles-Anti-Fog-Anti-Scratch-S3970DF/dp/B003U9VE94/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1471606195&sr=8-1&keywords=amazon+chemical+splash+goggles&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=4f4de1d135517557cb9759a8b9752bdc" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating eye protection goggles" border="0" height="135" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-w4rSaNcgJgM/V7bt6TDs72I/AAAAAAAACsE/OspgUYVHfVU0yczhqvhP75lrz1MFHTS3wCLcB/s200/81KJ7znbaTL._SL1500_.jpg" title="" width="200" /></a></div>
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<b>Professional Coater:</b> I would recommend a <a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007JZ1K1C/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=daae6e84a5c7db412f7eef6564aff262&language=en_US" target="_blank">3M Full Face Respirator</a> and a <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00821JA4Q/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00821JA4Q&linkCode=as2&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=NUVV2PK3HC7ZIYSH" target="_blank">Tyvek Suit</a>. Not only will the suit keep powder from getting on you, it will also help prevent dust and hair transferring from your clothes to your part while you're spraying.<br />
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<a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00821JA4Q/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=b280090c0c852608f66317f582999fde" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating avoding dust lint hair" border="0" height="320" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4nyG5TsJO1o/V7bs8IAwFjI/AAAAAAAACsA/dvUp9_HXz7E6qfrlLVBnBOMq_R42hxeNQCEw/s320/71uhi1HSpIL._SL1500_.jpg" title="" width="169" /></a><img alt="" border="0" height="1" hidden="" src="https://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=powcoathecomg-20&l=as2&o=1&a=B00821JA4Q" style="border: medium none; display: none; margin: 0px;" width="1" /><br />
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007JZ1K1C/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=41e10545d102bab1a7bd940102027c4f" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007JZ1K1C/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=41e10545d102bab1a7bd940102027c4f" border="0" height="320" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-G9qAfjZac4o/V7bs7laX8oI/AAAAAAAACsA/MVLHaUYVOTkob8RbK5Ys6P6GZCQaRQuXgCEw/s320/61MgRkot70L._SL1000_.jpg" title="" width="320" /></a><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Following the guidelines in this article and some practice, you should be able to overcome any issues that arise while spraying single-stage powder coats and achieve an excellent finish. Now that you know the correct way to apply one coat of powder, <a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2015/07/spraying-multiple-coats.html#.Vbjh3bWz5kE">learn how to apply multiple coats</a>. If you have any questions, feel free to leave a comment. Also check out a new section on this site: <a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/p/store.html" target="_blank">Recommended Powder Coating Supplies</a>. It has a lot of quality tools that will help you out in your powder coating journey. </b></span><br />
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<script type="text/javascript">var addthis_config = {"data_track_addressbar":true};</script> <script src="//s7.addthis.com/js/300/addthis_widget.js#pubid=ra-521c315825184b6b" type="text/javascript"></script> <!--AddThis Button END-->PowderCoatGuidehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12345212251907477269noreply@blogger.com33tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6576346347573188227.post-66930604957658921202014-12-16T00:18:00.003-08:002020-10-11T11:27:58.044-07:00How to Prep for Powder Coating<!--AddThis Button BEGIN--> <br />
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<a class="addthis_button_facebook_like" fb:like:layout="button_count" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> <a class="addthis_button_tweet" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> <a class="addthis_button_pinterest_pinit" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> <a class="addthis_counter addthis_pill_style" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> </div>
<script type="text/javascript">var addthis_config = {"data_track_addressbar":true};</script> <script src="//s7.addthis.com/js/300/addthis_widget.js#pubid=ra-521c315825184b6b" type="text/javascript"></script> <span style="font-size: large;">Powder coating requires some very specific prep work if you want your finished product to be free of flaws and last a long time. The preparation steps below will eliminate 99% of any issues you may be having in your powder coating work. If you plan to start powder coating in the future, this step-by-step will give you an idea of what kind of prep work is required for successful coating. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"></span></span></span></div>
<h4>
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: x-large;"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span face=""trebuchet ms" , sans-serif"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: x-large;">Step 1: Disassembly </span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></h4>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Disassembly is not always required, it really depends on what you are coating. If you are coating a piece of metal that is only made up of 1 part, then you can skip this step. If you plan on coating a part that has any rubber, plastic, gaskets, wiring, e<span style="font-family: inherit;">tc.</span> involved, these pieces will need to be removed because they will likely melt in the baking process. Any bearings will also need to be removed, even if they are made completely of metal. Bearings are often packed with grease, that, when heated in the oven, will ooze out leaving the bearing useless or severely shorten its life. Magnets should also be removed as a lot of them will become demagnetized during the baking process. When disassembling anything before powder coating, just make sure that you will be able to properly assemble it when finished. Always do research on this before you even pick up a wrench. Anyone can unbolt two brackets and coat them, but taking apart a transmission to powder coat the housings is a little more difficult. </span></span></span></span><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Always take pictures and notes of the disassembly if you aren't an expert on how it goes back together.</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span><br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WABL2ZxJNbc/VI_FkLQAIAI/AAAAAAAAB14/uGxoQguUb6A/s1600/STARTER%2BASSEMBLY%2B(14).jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="Dirty starter before powder coaitng" border="0" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WABL2ZxJNbc/VI_FkLQAIAI/AAAAAAAAB14/uGxoQguUb6A/s1600/STARTER%2BASSEMBLY%2B(14).jpg" title="Dirty starter before powder coaitng" width="320" /></a><span style="font-family: inherit;">Even if you have an assembly that is entirely metal, but it is made up of multiple pieces, I often find that dissembling the part and coating each piece separately gives the best results. Some parts are more difficult to disassemble than others. While one part may be bolted together and can easily be taken apart, another part may use rivets, pins or other fasteners that need specialized tools to remove and replace. It is up to you how much you want to disassemble parts like these<span style="font-family: inherit;">.</span> </span></span></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">When powder coating car parts such as starters, alternators, master cylinders, <span style="font-family: inherit;">etc.</span>, it is a good idea to purchase a rebuild kit for the part. This way, you can take it apart, coat it, and put it all back together with brand new components. Just make sure you research if a rebuild kit is available and whether you should order it from the car manufacture or an auto parts store (usually the answer is always the car manufacture) </span></span></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: x-large;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span face=""trebuchet ms" , sans-serif">Step 2: Cleaning </span></span></span></span></span></h4>
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After your part is disassembled, you will do a thorough cleaning of the part. You will need to remove all dirt, oil, grease, and grime from the part. Your goal with this cleaning should be that you could sit it on your best white shirt when done without it leaving a stain. Do not worry about rust or paint at this point, that will be removed later. Sometimes cast metal items will be stained and no amount of cleaning will remove it, that will also be taken care of later. Definitely read this<b> <a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2013/08/cleaning-and-degreasing-is-step-1.html" target="_blank">article</a> </b>which is a completely in-depth article on the cleaning step. A general degreaser can be used for this cleaning, just make sure it is safe for the part you are working with. For steel, I use and highly recommend <b><a href="https://www.amazon.com/Superclean-101723-1gal-Super-Degreaser/dp/B01J05YTU2/ref=as_li_ss_tl?dchild=1&keywords=super+clean&qid=1602440536&sr=8-2&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=39d97bd2da01562aaa1e7914468093e9&language=en_US" target="_blank">Super Clean</a></b>, formerly Castrol Super Clean. For aluminum, I use <b><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001VXU7OE/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B001VXU7OE&linkCode=as2&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=WZ2E7AC2QRKQEYCH" target="_blank">Simple Green Extreme</a></b>, since it was specifically developed to be safe for aluminum. Along with the cleaners, I use an assortment of scrub brushes and an electric pressure washer on the larger parts. I chose an electric pressure washer simply because of the ease of use. This <b><a href="https://www.amazon.com/Sun-Joe-SPX4001-PRO-Electric-Pressure/dp/B07G7XSQ4V/ref=as_li_ss_tl?dchild=1&keywords=sun+joe+pressure+washer&qid=1602440566&sr=8-13&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=3fc3a2f80c03ee9f2a4af67be651bdd7&language=en_US" target="_blank">Sun Joe Electric Pressure Washer</a></b> is very good as far as electric units go.<br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: x-large;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span face=""trebuchet ms" , sans-serif">Step 3: Stripping </span></span></span></span></span></h4>
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After you given your part a thorough cleaning, you will then remove any previous coatings whether it be paint, powder coat, or anything else. If there are no previous coatings, you can skip this step. Depending on how much you powder coat, this step can be skipped, and any previous coatings can be removed by sandblasting. If you are powder coating a lot, I highly recommend a stripper, especially if the previous coating you are trying to remove is powder coat. Some previous coatings can be a nightmare to sandblast off and the stripping step is a great time saver. I have written an entire article on stripping coatings and it can be found <b><a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2013/07/stripping-powder-coat.html#.VI_MOmc09SM" target="_blank">here</a></b>.<br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: x-large;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span face=""trebuchet ms" , sans-serif">Step 4: Outgassing </span></span></span></span></span></h4>
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At this point, your part should be as clean as you can get it and down to bare metal. This is when you would do the outgassing procedure. Not all parts need to be outgassed so this step is "optional". Cast iron or cast aluminum are porous and they can absorb oils during the manufacturing process or while they are in use. I always outgas all cast parts and any parts that have lived in a greasy environment. The outgassing procedure is the process of pre-baking the part in the oven at a higher temperature and longer time period than the actual powder coat curing. This pre-bake heats up the oils inside of the part and drives them out. You will often see a part smoking during this process, the smoke is a result of the oil burning up. If there are oils present inside of the part, and you do not outgas first, then these oils will come out during the powder coat curing which will leave little bubbles or bumps in the finish. <br />
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There is no set standard for outgassing, different coaters follow different guidelines. Some will leave the part in the oven until it stops smoking. Some will leave it in for a set time. My procedure is to put the part in the oven at 440 Degrees F and I adjust the time based on the size of the part. A small part like this starter would go in the oven for 30 minutes. For wheels, I would leave them in for an hour or longer depending on if they are still smoking. My reason for 440 degrees F is simply because at around 500 Degrees F, some aluminum alloys can start to anneal, which causes them to lose their heat-treatment, and therefore their strength. 440 Degrees F seems to be low enough to stay far away from the annealing temperature, yet high enough that it will remove any oils that would come out during the powder coat curing. Again, there is no set procedure, this is just what I do, and it works for me.<br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: x-large;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span face=""trebuchet ms" , sans-serif">Step 5: Sandblasting or Phosphate Coating or Both</span></span></span></span></span><img alt="" border="0" height="1" hidden="" src="https://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=powcoathecomg-20&l=as2&o=1&a=B001RQV6GS" style="border: medium none; display: none; margin: 0px;" width="1" /></h4>
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<a href="https://www.amazon.com/Skat-Blast-Sandblast-Sandblasting-Cabinet/dp/B077J85C7Q/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1533398389&sr=8-1&keywords=skat+blast+cabinet&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=e4b3f061a37510c5d86f8ae6f0cf1032&language=en_US" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="https://www.amazon.com/Skat-Blast-Sandblast-Sandblasting-Cabinet/dp/B077J85C7Q/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1533398389&sr=8-1&keywords=skat+blast+cabinet&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=e4b3f061a37510c5d86f8ae6f0cf1032&language=en_US" border="0" data-original-height="500" data-original-width="500" height="200" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-HeYGVA0L6iY/W2XNluQn__I/AAAAAAAADfk/RUbGBdb83GEYdb8go5SN37brO56OB7JXQCLcBGAs/s200/tp%2Btools%2Bbest%2Bsandblasting%2Bcabinet.jpg" title="High quality sandblastind cabinet" width="200" /></a></div>
At this point, your part is ready for sandblasting. Sandblasting will clean your part to clean bare metal while providing a texture to the part which allows the powder coating to adhere to. When sandblasting, you will want to sandblast every single area of the part, completely, and thoroughly with clean media. There are some areas that should not be sandblasted, like brake caliper piston bores or cylinder bores. These areas need to be masked off prior to sandblasting. Do not use dirty or oily media to blast parts as you are prepping for powder coat. This oil will contaminate the part and you will see it in your finish. To see the full benefits of sandblasting and learn how to set yourself up for sandblasting, check out <b><a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2013/01/8-media-blaster.html" target="_blank">Media Blasting Part 1</a></b> and <b><a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2013/07/media-blasting-continued.html" target="_blank">Media Blasting Part 2</a></b>. If after reading those articles and you are still too stubborn to set yourself up with some sandblasting equipment, then check out the <b><a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2013/07/alternatives-to-sand-blasting.html" target="_blank">Alternatives to Sandblasting</a></b>. The end result to sandblasting should be completely clean, white metal with no contaminants at all. From this point on, your part should NOT be handled with bare hands. Use clean gloves only.<br />
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I mentioned above the besides cleaning, sandblasting also leaves a texture on the part which allows powder coating to stick. This texture is responsible for the adhesion and therefore durability of the powder coating. Without it, powder coating can be chipped relatively easily. There are alternatives to sandblasting to achieve this adhesion called phosphate coatings. However, these phosphate coatings do not provide as much adhesion as sandblasting and the durability of the powder coating will not be as good. Many production powder coating facilities that coat thousands of parts per day will use a phosphate coating instead of sandblasting. Phosphate coatings are much faster to apply compared to sandblasting each part individually. Unfortunately, the durability of the powder coating suffers because of this. The coatings used area usually iron phosphate or zinc phosphate. Iron phosphate is commercially available from almost every powder retailer. You can see Powder 365 sells Iron Phosphate <b><a href="https://powder365.com/product/one-step-ip-one-gallon/" target="_blank">here</a></b>. Zinc phosphate is superior to iron phosphate; however, it is much more controlled and you will need to setup an account with a chemical supplier in order to purchase it. For the absolute best adhesion and durability, you can use a phosphate coating in addition to sandblasting. <br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: x-large;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span face=""trebuchet ms" , sans-serif">Step 6: Post-Sandblast Cleaning </span></span></span></span></span></h4>
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Sandblasting will remove almost all contaminates from your part, however your part will come out covered in sandblasting dust. Once you remove the part from the cabinet (WITH CLEAN GLOVES) you can remove a majority of the dust by spraying it off with the air compressor. Make sure you are spraying it with clean air though, you will need to have a moisture removal filter in the air line, otherwise you can contaminate your clean part. If you want to learn how to get clean compressed air, check out this <b><a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2014/06/how-to-dry-compressed.html#.VI_Z2Wc09SM" target="_blank">article</a></b>. After a majority of the dust is removed, I will then scrub the part aggressively with a clean stiff bristled brush and blow it off with air again. Then I use denatured alcohol on a clean towel and gently clean/blot the part. <b><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001EMB2A0/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B001EMB2A0&linkCode=as2&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=LC55FSE4AA3A5SYL" target="_blank">Denatured alcohol</a></b> is strongly recommended over acetone. It leaves absolutely no residues. I try to leave as little lint as possible during this step. I then blow off the part again and go over the part quickly with my trusty <b><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0019CQL60/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B0019CQL60&linkCode=as2&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=B74D5WFPFXLI7A5X" target="_blank">propane hand torch</a></b> which burns off any remaining lint and also causes any traces of denatured alcohol to evaporate.<br />
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<span face=""trebuchet ms" , sans-serif" style="font-size: x-large;">Step 7: Masking</span></h4>
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Masking is dependent on the part. Some parts require some masking before powder coating and this is the time to do it. I do all my masking with clean gloves on as it is the very last step before the part is powder coated and one sweaty finger print can show up in the finish. I do all of my masking on a clean workbench top with clean tools. If you would like to see some tips on masking, check out <b><a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2013/08/masking.html" target="_blank">Masking Part 1</a></b> and <b><a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2013/08/powder-coat-masking-part-ii.html#.XKdSEaR7mUl" target="_blank">Masking Part 2</a></b>.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_qsNxL68tjM/VI_gFYr0ECI/AAAAAAAAB2I/wB5SoiWg9dc/s1600/IMG_20130925_000637.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Powder Coat Masking Turbo Coolant Lines" border="0" height="239" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_qsNxL68tjM/VI_gFYr0ECI/AAAAAAAAB2I/wB5SoiWg9dc/s1600/IMG_20130925_000637.jpg" title="Powder Coat Masking Turbo Coolant Lines" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: x-large;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span face=""trebuchet ms" , sans-serif">Step 8: Hanging </span></span></span></span></span></h4>
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The last step is to hang your part, I use an assortment of hooks of different sizes as well as bare wire to hang parts. Bigger parts get a bigger stronger hook. The last thing you want to hear after doing all this work is your part falling in the oven because the hook gave out. If you are powder coating your parts on a grounded rack, make sure the hook you are using is clean bare metal, so it is able to conduct the ground through to the part.<br />
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">These are the steps necessary for successful powder coating. Do not skimp or rush these steps, preparation is 90% of the work for a good finish. It may seem like a lot of work but it is required to do it right. After these steps, your part is ready to be powder coated. In the upcoming article, I will discuss how to actually spray the powder coat and the proper way to cure it followed by how to shoot 2 or more coats. Thanks for Reading</span></b><br />
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<script type="text/javascript">var addthis_config = {"data_track_addressbar":true};</script> <script src="//s7.addthis.com/js/300/addthis_widget.js#pubid=ra-521c315825184b6b" type="text/javascript"></script> <!--AddThis Button END-->PowderCoatGuidehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12345212251907477269noreply@blogger.com36tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6576346347573188227.post-4986472696905455522014-06-19T15:20:00.008-07:002020-10-11T11:37:09.279-07:00How to Dry Compressed Air<a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002PR8ZXK/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=b22b6c968e6043838439bafe9540f47d" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="best air compressor filter powder coating" border="0" height="200" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-1bgTtPok5OE/V7b86aS2XtI/AAAAAAAACu0/JDsDxrJZXGYPqNKDutSIjhbA49npvJdMACLcB/s200/81hSwrAkNTL._SL1500_.jpg" title="" width="145" /></a><span style="font-size: large;">You have your air compressor and powder coating gun and you are ready to start powder coating? Not so fast, make sure you read this article first. When powder coating or sandblasting, you need clean, dry air. More than just compressed air comes out of the outlet of your air compressor. Water, dirt, and oil will also be included in this compressed air. It is very important that you treat your compressed air and remove these contaminants when using your air compressor for powder coating. The same information I am about to provide also applies to auto painting, compressed air machinery, or even just using common air tools. Any tool that connects to your air compressor will appreciate a clean air supply. Read this article: <a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2013/10/choosing-air-compressor.html#.WQFfeMaP59N">How to Choose an Air Compressor</a> if you haven't purchased an air compressor yet. </span>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;">WHY DO THESE CONTAMINANTS NEED TO BE REMOVED?</span></h3>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Powder Coating: </span></h4>
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When you are powder coating, these contaminants will travel right through your powder coating gun and onto your part. These contaminants, when heated will cause issues in the final finish, usually in the form of "fisheyes". Fisheyes look like little craters or popped bubbles on the powder coated finish. If you look closely at the picture below, you will see this the effect of moisture or oil in the compressed air supply. The same concept applies to auto painting and liquid paints.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-erT4KDyfZpA/U6NqF_y5xDI/AAAAAAAABVQ/pIRsuPl0WA4/s1600/powder+coating+fisheyes.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating aluminum outgassing" border="0" height="360" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-erT4KDyfZpA/U6NqF_y5xDI/AAAAAAAABVQ/pIRsuPl0WA4/s640/powder+coating+fisheyes.jpg" title="powder coating aluminum outgassing" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Sandblasting:</span></h4>
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Water is the enemy of sandblasting. Water will mix with your blasting media and cause it to clump up and clog inside of your sandblasting gun. When the sandblasting gun clogs, the output of the media will be reduced or stop all-together which means you must stop what you are doing, take apart the gun and clear the out the wet media. This is an annoying and time-consuming process. Not to mention that you are blasting your part with wet and oily media which can cause issues when it comes time to powder coat.<br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">General Air Tools & Machinery:</span></h4>
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Even if you are just using your air compressor to run an impact gun, you need to have relatively dry air. Any moisture or water in the air going through your air tool will cause corrosion inside of the tool which eventually cause it to fail. The same issue applies to other air operated machinery such as tire changing machines, plasma cutters, or lifts. You do not want water ruining this expensive equipment, so make sure that you are taking steps to eliminate it from your compressed air supply.<br />
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<span style="font-size: x-large;">WHY IS THERE WATER, OIL, AND DIRT PRESENT IN MY COMPRESSED AIR?</span></h3>
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<b>Dirt</b> is in present in your air supply because it is present in the environment, and by dirt, I mean any solid particles that are floating around. The air compressor takes in air from around it, compressed it and stores it. Although there is a filter on the air compressor to stop dirt from entering the air compressor, it is not 100% effective at removing every particle.<br />
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<b>Oil </b>is present in the air supply because of oil blow-by in your air compressor. Oil-lubricated air compressors have seals to prevent oil from reaching the air, but they, again, are not 100% effective.<br />
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<b>Water </b>is the big one, it is the most difficult to remove and if you haven't researched it before, it may not make since why it is coming out of your air compressor. Air compressors take in large quantities of air and compact it into a much smaller space. There is always water present in air and depending on what area of the world you live, there will be different amounts of it. This is called Humidity. While looking around your garage, you obviously don't see water floating around, but it is there. Considering your air compressor is storing a room full of air inside of a small tank, that same room full of air's water vapor is going to go into the tank too. This is where the water starts to add up into visible water droplets. If you never drain your air compressor, the water will continuously add up until you have <b>gallons </b>of water sitting inside of your compressor tank. It would seem simple enough, that just draining your compressor tank regularly would remove the water content. Unfortunately, this is not the case. Air compressors heat up the incoming air substantially when they are running. Hot air can hold much more water than cold air can and as you cool the hot air, the water vapor will condense into a liquid. The air stored inside of your tank will be very hot and when you release the air by allowing it to run to an air tool or powder coating gun, it will cool down along the way. This is when the water vapor drops out of the air and turns into a liquid which will then continue on to your tool. The whole idea behind compressed air dryers is to catch this water before it reaches your tool. <br />
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<span style="font-size: x-large;">HOW TO ELIMINATE THESE CONTAMINANTS FROM YOUR AIR COMPRESSOR</span></h3>
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There are many ways to eliminate these contaminants, ranging from some well thought-up DIY setups to commercial products. I will explain many of these options in this article. Since water is the most difficult to remove, I will cover that first. The whole theory of removing the water revolves around cooling the compressed air to allow the water to drop out and then catch it. All of the following methods work using this theory. The reason why I don't just explain one single method is because of cost. The easiest and most efficient water removal method is also the most expensive. Multiple methods can be and sometimes need to be used on the same setup to achieve dry air. Let's get to the different methods now, I will start with the most effective method first.<br />
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</span> <span style="font-size: large;"><b>Refrigerated Air Dryer:</b></span><br />
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<a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001MUU732/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=72898b837ab435d4362b6b753ea7de3a" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="air compressor refrigerated air dryer moisture removal" border="0" height="200" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-J9V_7tsco0o/V7b86HRM4aI/AAAAAAAACuw/jTQbzu0FUg4PsxQHxBeLtbrA1cXgaPAXQCEw/s200/71-HPpJ5R%252BL._SL1031_.jpg" title="" width="181" /></a> A refrigerated air dryer is a unit that you plumb your air compressor to that cools the air below its dew point causing the water to drop out of the air, it then separates the water from the air, heats the air back up to room temperature and sends it on its way. If you look inside of one of these units, you will see that it functions very similar to an air conditioning unit. One simple solution to dry air all contained in one unit. It sounds like the perfect answer doesn't it? Why would anyone try to rig up other ways to dry their air if a magical unit like this is available? The answer is<b> COST</b>. These units start at about $700 brand new, and if you manage to find a used one, it won't be that much cheaper as they hold their value very well. If you do have the budget for it, or you have plan on putting a professional powder coating system in place, look no further than the Refrigerated air dryer as it is the best solution. They are very low-maintenance, the only downside after the initial purchase is that it has to be plugged in to work so it may have a small effect on your electric bill. These units need to be sized according to your compressor. The higher the cfm output of your compressor, the bigger compressed air dryer you will need. <br />
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This Ingersoll Rand D25IN model is an entry level, yet high quality refrigerated air dryer. It will work great for the average 60-80gallon single stage compressor and is capable of flowing 15cfm. It receives great reviews and is a reliable unit. It can be found on Amazon for $739.00 which is the cheapest I have been able to find it: <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002CWAJXM/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B002CWAJXM&linkCode=as2&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=GVXJUGGZZLX5YYVF">Ingersoll Rand Refrigerated Air Dryer D25IN</a><img alt="" border="0" height="1" src="https://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=powcoathecomg-20&l=as2&o=1&a=B002CWAJXM" style="border: medium none; margin: 0px;" width="1" /> If you have a 2-stage compressor that is putting out more than 15cfm, then this is the next model up and it is capable of flowing 25cfm: <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001MUU732/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B001MUU732&linkCode=as2&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=VFLIUJYJ55JQGVWU">Ingersoll Rand Refrigerated Air Dryer D42IN</a>.<br />
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ofzQm1jhAWs/V7b9gxo5CWI/AAAAAAAACu8/IeQHaNjar8w3ObE2FPj43Mypcxc_b89UACLcB/s1600/image_11243.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="Compressed Air Dryer" border="0" height="200" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ofzQm1jhAWs/V7b9gxo5CWI/AAAAAAAACu8/IeQHaNjar8w3ObE2FPj43Mypcxc_b89UACLcB/s200/image_11243.jpg" title="" width="200" /></a> The units mentioned above are made by Ingersoll Rand which is a trusted name in the compressed air industry, so the quality is pretty much assured, I would recommend nothing less than the above units for a professional powder coating shop. However, $750+ can be a lot of money if you are DIY powder coating on a budget. Harbor freight also sells a Refrigerated Air Dryer at half the cost and it also has great reviews. I have talked to people that have had a Harbor Freight unit in place for 10 years with no issues. It us usually only sold online and not available in Harbor Freight stores. You can see more about it here: <a href="http://www.harborfreight.com/compressed-air-dryer-40211.html" target="_top">Harbor Freight Compressed Air Dryer</a><img border="0" height="1" src="https://www.ftjcfx.com/image-7209741-10863227" width="1" /><br />
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If you decide to use a refrigerated air dryer, it is advisable to put a filter before it to catch particles before they enter the dryer. The filters are explained right below. <br />
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<h4>
<span style="font-size: large;">Water Trap / Filter: </span> </h4>
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<a href="https://www.amazon.com/ARO-F35341-400-VS-Air-Line-Filter/dp/B0057D8M50/ref=as_li_ss_tl?keywords=air+compressor+filter+1/2&qid=1552888599&s=gateway&sr=8-5&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=1316af39f7c3c3cb7ddb4d83cc85d8dd&language=en_US" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="https://www.amazon.com/ARO-F35341-400-VS-Air-Line-Filter/dp/B0057D8M50/ref=as_li_ss_tl?keywords=air+compressor+filter+1/2&qid=1552888599&s=gateway&sr=8-5&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=1316af39f7c3c3cb7ddb4d83cc85d8dd&language=en_US" border="0" data-original-height="1500" data-original-width="910" height="320" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-sBDf9lee7-I/XI8zTdFfqgI/AAAAAAAAES0/ybkv5722Dr4Aeg9Cb2g3vzYh7DTbAD-OwCEwYBhgL/s320/air%2Bcompressor%2Bwater%2Btrap.jpg" width="194" /></a>A <a href="https://www.amazon.com/ARO-F35341-400-VS-Air-Line-Filter/dp/B0057D8M50/ref=as_li_ss_tl?keywords=air+compressor+filter+1/2&qid=1552888599&s=gateway&sr=8-5&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=1316af39f7c3c3cb7ddb4d83cc85d8dd&language=en_US">Water Trap</a><img alt="" border="0" height="1" src="https://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=powcoathecomg-20&l=as2&o=1&a=B0000CBINA" style="border: medium none; margin: 0px;" width="1" /> or Filter is another commercial product like the refrigerated air dryer that is aimed at <span id="goog_2112085527"></span><span id="goog_2112085528"></span>removing water from your air compressor. These are very simple products. Air goes in one side and circulates around a bowl before exiting through the center which also usually has a filter element to trap particles. The air then exits the water trap. As the air circulates around the bowl, the water is supposed to stick to the bowl where it collects in the bottom of the trap which has a drain. This product does work, but only if you <b>COOL </b>the air first. It will not remove water from hot air when the water is in the form of vapor. Your air must be cool before it enters the water trap for it to be effective. It will not catch 100% of the water, so it is common to see these in a series to try to catch as much as possible. Keep in mind that every one of these filters is a restriction and creates a pressure drop in your air line. Powder coating guns do not need a whole lot of cfm so that is not a big deal, but when sandblasting, you want access to all of the air that you have available. Alone, these are good enough for using air tools, but when you need really dry air, like when powder coating, sandblasting, or painting, they work best when combined with other methods. This is a cheap common water trap that has good reviews and is from a very reliable name: <a href="https://www.amazon.com/ARO-F35341-400-VS-Air-Line-Filter/dp/B0057D8M50/ref=as_li_ss_tl?keywords=air+compressor+filter+1/2&qid=1552888599&s=gateway&sr=8-5&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=1316af39f7c3c3cb7ddb4d83cc85d8dd&language=en_US">Ingersoll Rand Air Filter</a><img alt="" border="0" height="1" src="https://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=powcoathecomg-20&l=as2&o=1&a=B0000CBINA" style="border: medium none; margin: 0px;" width="1" /><br />
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With a filter like the one linked to above, the bowl is clear so that you can see the water accumulating. When the bowl gets full, you must manually drain it with the little knob on the bottom. If you fail to drain it, the bowl water will start to feed right back into your air line, so don't forget to keep it drained. <br />
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</i> <i>Note</i>: <i>Sometimes these water traps come attached to a regulator and an air tool oiler. The regulator is no problem, but make sure you absolutely do not put an oiler on the hose you will be using for sandblasting or powder coating. An oiler is meant to add a steady supply of oil for your air tools, if you currently have an oiler on your powder coating gun air line, remove it and replace the air hose with a clean one immediately. </i><br />
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<h4>
<span style="font-size: large;">Desiccant Air Dryer</span></h4>
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<a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002PR8ZXK/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=4b6bc15fabacf3972ee4e845e8bd38b1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="Dessiccant compressed air dryer for powder coating or painting" border="0" height="200" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1bgTtPok5OE/V7b86aS2XtI/AAAAAAAACvA/m-QULwU7RwoIfH4oUK5Vzek8cqdWjL1nACEw/s200/81hSwrAkNTL._SL1500_.jpg" title="" width="146" /></a> A desiccant air dryer may look very similar to a water trap like the one talked about above and the construction is very similar. The difference is that a desiccant air dryer is filled with tiny little beads that absorb water called desiccant beads. These beads chemically absorb water and alone, this item is great for dry air. However, the beads do eventually fill up with water and lose their effectiveness until they cannot absorb any more water at all. The beads are often color changing, they may start out as purple, and then change to pink once they are full. A neat little trick with these is that you can spread the beads out on a cookie sheet and bake them in the oven which will dry them back out again. When baking them, set the oven at around 250 to 300 degrees F and just remove the beads from the oven when they are their original color. Once they are dry, you can put them back into use. Desiccant beads are not cheap so this method will save you a lot of money. These beads will still eventually break down and need replacing eventually. These desiccant dryers work great if you intermittent tools like a powder coating gun. The beads should last a long time. However, for a sandblasting cabinet, that you could use for hours at a time, the beads will need baked/replaced much more frequently. It is best to use these as a final filter before the tool along with another water removing device beforehand that catches the bulk of the water. This will get you the longest use out of the beads. The standard in Desiccant Air dryers is the <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002PR8ZXK/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B002PR8ZXK&linkCode=as2&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=GYKFI6DKKDXPLQF5">DeVilbiss QC3</a>. It is used by auto body shops as a final filter before the paint gun. It also removes dirt particles down to .1 microns, removes oil, and it has a built in air regulator. <br />
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If you would like to make a DIY Desiccant Dryer, you can actually make you own using pipes and fittings available at a local hardware store. See post #10 in this thread for how this guy did it: <a href="http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=131919&showall=1">Garage Journal Board Thread</a>. Once you have it put together, you just need to fill it with the beads which you can buy separate: <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000OUXA2Q/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B000OUXA2Q&linkCode=as2&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=KW3CR65CS5NRBQO7">Jar of Replacement Desiccant - 1 Quart Capacity</a><img alt="" border="0" height="1" separator="" src="https://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=powcoathecomg-20&l=as2&o=1&a=B000OUXA2Q" style="clear: both; text-align: center;" /><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-hloY0EWUPpE/U6PJ-2Nf6sI/AAAAAAAABVc/RurtFd6nlYY/s1600/diy+dessicant+dryer.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="DIY cheap desiccant filter" border="0" height="400" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-hloY0EWUPpE/U6PJ-2Nf6sI/AAAAAAAABVc/RurtFd6nlYY/s320/diy+dessicant+dryer.jpg" title="DIY cheap desiccant filter" width="300" /></a></div>
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<h4>
<span style="font-size: large;">Heat Exchanger / Aftercooler</span></h4>
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<a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CN6TPU/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=e9c25833d4ec20295fde9646e092eb5d" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="diy air compressor after cooler moisture removal" border="0" height="152" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-33NSR5ldEuM/V7b86Zq8oxI/AAAAAAAACvA/CGKeBkvYx3cqA4xU0RAOHOtmDOuXKl_8gCEw/s200/81xLtxrp4%252BL._SL1500_.jpg" title="" width="200" /></a>A heat exchanger such as an <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CN6TPU/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B000CN6TPU&linkCode=as2&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=LXMKYQYVQXM3HYIR">Oil Cooler</a><img alt="" border="0" height="1" src="https://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=powcoathecomg-20&l=as2&o=1&a=B000CN6TPU" style="border: medium none; margin: 0px;" width="1" />, transmission cooler, or automotive a/c condenser can be used to cool the compressed air followed by a <a href="https://www.amazon.com/ARO-F35341-400-VS-Air-Line-Filter/dp/B0057D8M50/ref=as_li_ss_tl?keywords=air+compressor+filter+1/2&qid=1552888599&s=gateway&sr=8-5&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=1316af39f7c3c3cb7ddb4d83cc85d8dd&language=en_US">water trap</a><img alt="" border="0" height="1" src="https://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=powcoathecomg-20&l=as2&o=1&a=B0000CBINA" style="border: medium none; margin: 0px;" width="1" /> to catch the water. The most common placement of the heat exchanger when using this method is actually right after the air compressor pump and before the tank. Meaning the air is cooled and dry before it even enters the tank. You can then supplement the heat exchanger with a fan blowing across it. This has a couple of benefits, first is that your tank will remain much dryer inside so that reduces chances of the inside of the tank rusting. Also a nice side-effect is that your tank will be able to hold more air as the air. Colder air is denser, the denser the air going in to your tank, the more air you will actually have in your tank. You can see a very detailed build thread of a guy using an oil cooler to cool off his compressed here in this thread: <a href="http://garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=161113">Garage Journal Air Compressor Aftercooler</a>. <br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mMEVpxbXeXA/U6PtLqGiQ6I/AAAAAAAABWY/rSZYjxy2JX0/s1600/aftercooler3011.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="DIY Air Compressor Oil Cooler water trap moisture water removal" border="0" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mMEVpxbXeXA/U6PtLqGiQ6I/AAAAAAAABWY/rSZYjxy2JX0/s1600/aftercooler3011.jpg" title="DIY Air Compressor Oil Cooler" width="300" /></a></div>
If you would like to go this route and position the cooler between the pump and the compressor, you will need to make your own copper lines coming from the pump to the cooler, and then from the cooler into the tank. Do not use rubber here as the air exiting the pump can be over 300 °F. <img alt="" border="0" height="1" src="https://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=powcoathecomg-20&l=as2&o=1&a=B000CN6TPU" style="border: medium none; margin: 0px;" width="1" /><br />
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<h4>
<span style="font-size: large;">Copper or Black Iron Pipe:</span></h4>
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Your air lines themselves and the way you plumb them can be used to remove water from your compressor. A long length of metal pipe such as copper or black iron will absorb a lot of heat from the air running through it which allows the water to drop out of suspension. Designing your piping system and comparisons of copper and iron pipe are covered in detail here: <a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2016/05/plumbing-your-air-compressor.html#.W15sVrgnaUl">Plumbing your Air Compressor</a>. The water can then be trapped by a water trap or a T-Fitting and a Ball Valve. See the example below.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-X4zzFsxxUG4/U6Pl-qPvLbI/AAAAAAAABWI/S3cJQZvumtg/s1600/air+compressor+piping3.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Air Compreessor zig zag piping moisture" border="0" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-X4zzFsxxUG4/U6Pl-qPvLbI/AAAAAAAABWI/S3cJQZvumtg/s1600/air+compressor+piping3.png" title="Air Compreessor zig zag piping moisture" /></a></div>
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Arranging your piping like the example above uses gravity to let the water fall down into the lower segment where it can be collected and removed while the air can continue on its path. When you open the ball valve, the collected water will drain out. This is called a "drip leg." You can use a series of these run up and down the wall to allow the air to cool as it moves through the piping. After each drip leg, the water is reduced more and more and you should set it up so by the time you drain the last drip leg, no water should come out. This method works well and some people use this as a stand-alone method to remove water from the air. <br />
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<h4>
<span style="font-size: large;">Bucket of Ice Water:</span></h4>
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<a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HE8ER0/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=a6837d7d8b50a416f4c95d9c9599c31f" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="diy air comrpessor moisture removal ice water bucket copper coil" border="0" height="200" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-8-vZcZrOF9k/V7b86P_hIbI/AAAAAAAACvA/T_EWSSPtEOQlPE9SF3qumgc6c2iyolEpACEw/s200/41yVWxtrAtL.jpg" title="" width="200" /></a> This method is the cheapest of all the methods mentioned above but it only lasts until your ice melts. The idea is that you take a <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Good-12674-Rubber-50-Feet-8-Inch/dp/B0089XH5O4/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1532915236&sr=8-5&keywords=air+hose&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=de1f2659b11ecf3ff747391f3dde1550&language=en_US">50ft air hose</a> coming out of your air compressor and coil it up in a bucket of ice water. The hose then immediately goes to a <a href="https://www.amazon.com/ARO-F35341-400-VS-Air-Line-Filter/dp/B0057D8M50/ref=as_li_ss_tl?keywords=air+compressor+filter+1/2&qid=1552888599&s=gateway&sr=8-5&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=1316af39f7c3c3cb7ddb4d83cc85d8dd&language=en_US">water trap</a><img alt="" border="0" height="1" src="https://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=powcoathecomg-20&l=as2&o=1&a=B0000CBINA" style="border: medium none; margin: 0px;" width="1" />. The ice water will cool the hose which will cool the air. After the air is cooled, and the water vapor turns into water droplets, the water trap is there to catch the water. This method does work but obviously it involves constantly replenishing the ice. An upgrade to this method is using a <a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HE8ER0/ref=as_li_ss_tl?&imprToken=5CcxCnN5iHvmI35A1KVaVg&slotNum=13&ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=c7ba0ad008abcba3f7bc5d56b984b1ef&language=en_US">copper coil</a> instead of an air hose. A rubber air hose is a very poor choice for heat transfer. It acts as insulator. By using a copper coil, you can transfer much more of the heat into the ice water. To preserve the ice for longer periods of time, you can use a cooler in place of the bucket. You will need to drill an inlet and outlet hole in the cooler and then fill the gaps with some expanding foam to make a good seal. The cooler will stop the ice from melting for a longer period of time, or you can take it one step further and put a bucket of ice water in a mini-fridge.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-AmVZtYquhgw/U6P79VBSOLI/AAAAAAAABWo/snunfo6_IrM/s1600/air+compressor+cooler+fill+with+ice+water.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="air compressor ice bucket cooler" border="0" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-AmVZtYquhgw/U6P79VBSOLI/AAAAAAAABWo/snunfo6_IrM/s1600/air+compressor+cooler+fill+with+ice+water.png" title="air compressor ice bucket cooler" /></a></div>
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If you decide to use this method, the most important thing is keeping the loops of the coil horizontal and you want the loops to spiral in a downward pattern with the water trap being at the lowest point. This allows the water to drain downwards towards the water trap and it prevents water from pooling up inside of the coils.<br />
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<h4>
<span style="font-size: large;">Drain the Tank</span></h4>
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Regardless of any of the above methods that you decide to use to dry your air, you need to drain the air compressor tank frequently. There is a drain on the bottom of the air compressor tank that you will open slightly to let nasty water/oil stew drain out of and then close it once it is done draining. Do this every day that you use your air compressor. If you are using your air compressor for extended periods of time, drain it several times while you are using it. This will keep the tank free of rust and it is your very first line of defense against removing moisture from your air lines. If water is allowed to build up in the tank, over the years, the tank will rust internally making it weaker. I have seen a tank that exploded due to internal corrosion and it took out half of the garage, if anyone was present in the garage at the time, it could have been deadly. <br />
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<a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00273WV78/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=ae93b94fe4947c510892a2c6caa2247a" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="air compressor automatic tank drain" border="0" height="320" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-UAnYDv7YnX4/V7b86GLIuLI/AAAAAAAACvA/QtaUYbf89mIELfwiAqTy6ZJuE2mIoda_wCEw/s320/412S58WqtSL.jpg" title="" width="320" /></a></div>
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Unfortunately, draining the tank is a pain because the valve sits underneath your compressor. I picked up this <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Powermate-Vx-072-0023RP-Extended-Assembly/dp/B00QQL2BPY/ref=as_li_ss_tl?keywords=air+compressor+drain+extension&qid=1552888970&s=gateway&sr=8-3&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=61daecf514e9764a399e8ac3ec4a96b0&language=en_US">Drain Extension Kit</a> which extends the drain to a ball valve in a more accessible place. If you would like to automate this process, <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00273WV78/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00273WV78&linkCode=as2&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=LSSSOVQRBLBM72AZ">auto drains</a> are available that will automatically drain the tank for you periodically using a timer.<br />
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<h4>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">Removing Oil</span></h4>
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<a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HHZHP4/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=4b319e072f6d7f378d68edd08c15f9fa&language=en_US" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="air compressor moisture oil removal filter motor guard" border="0" height="200" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-RsOI0Kwb8d8/V7b86IZd8MI/AAAAAAAACvA/7Yo1lRLa6sEaHwXbgSA4OyqrLYmvTi_GwCEw/s200/61LG5tns74L._SL1159_.jpg" title="" width="155" /></a>To remove any oil from your compressed air lines, <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HHZHP4/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B000HHZHP4&linkCode=as2&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=QFNYFTRS6NGCHKNN">Motor Guard Filter</a><img alt="" border="0" height="1" src="https://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=powcoathecomg-20&l=as2&o=1&a=B000HHZHP4" style="border: medium none; margin: 0px;" width="1" /> has been the choice for decades. It is also known as a toilet paper filter. People even used to use them in their cars back in the day in place of an oil filter. I would consider the Motor Guard filter to be a point of use filter. Meaning you use a quick-disconnect fitting on each side of it and only use it when you need the cleanest air possible, like when powder coating. I do not use it when sand blasting. The Motor Guard filter uses a cartridge that looks very much like a roll of toilet paper which is compressed between the top and bottom housing. The compression of the roll causes the layers to spread out slightly allowing some room in between each one. The air passes through the voids in the layers of paper and any oil or dirt particles will be trapped. A neat trick I have read about is to use actual rolls of toilet paper to replace the filter when it reaches the end of its life. Apparently, the toilet paper works almost as good as the Motor Guard replacement filters. I have yet to replace my cartridge but when it is too nasty to use any more I will try it out. When choosing the toilet paper, they say the cheaper, the better, meaning the single ply stuff that feels like sand paper. The standard series of Motorguard filters removes oil droplets but unfortunately will not remove oil in vapor form. For completely oil free air (<.01 PPM), the <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Motor-Guard-M-C100-Activated-Compressed/dp/B002YKM8OA/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1532915409&sr=8-6&keywords=motorguard&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=537114149c037f2a0b6b2a7e1611561a&language=en_US" target="_blank">Motorguard MC-100</a> filter can be used. The MC-100 uses activated carbon to remove the vaporized oil from the air lines. This level of oil removal is usually only reserved for spraying waterborne base paints, but if you want to be 100% certain that there will be no oil making it into your powder coat operation, this filter will handle it. <br />
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I have now provided you with a bunch of different ways to remove any water or moisture from your air compressor. Depending on your budget and your DIY abilities, you can select which method or methods suits you best. All of the methods are effective and proven to work. Some of these options are expensive, but do not let that dissuade you from powder coating. If you are just getting started and want to try it out, stick an air hose in a bucket of ice and start coating. As you continue along, you will improve your equipment and see the need for cleaner air. These items are not just powder coating specific, if you ever want to use a paint gun, or a plasma cutter, you need air that is just as clean and dry. <br />
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In the next article, I will be discuss <a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2016/05/plumbing-your-air-compressor.html#.V7b_xDW1iW-"><b>How to Plumb your Air Compressor</b></a> and what types of piping to use. I originally intended it to be included in this article, but this article is long enough as-is. However, make sure to check out the next article as plumbing your air compressor goes hand-in-hand with everything I mentioned above. As always, thanks for reading and if you enjoyed this article, don't forget to leave a comment or follow Powder Coating: The Complete Guide on any of our social media pages linked below. <br />
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PowderCoatGuidehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12345212251907477269noreply@blogger.com25tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6576346347573188227.post-84586646873721201872013-10-18T21:54:00.025-07:002020-10-11T11:57:34.505-07:00Choosing an Air Compressor<span style="font-size: large;"><b>An air compressor is an essential component in nearly all powder coating applications. It provides the air necessary for media blasting, blowing off parts, and of course, a powder coating gun. </b></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b><a href="https://www.amazon.com/Compressor-80-Gallon-EMAX-Industrial-ES05V080I1/dp/B012RJZY3O/ref=as_li_ss_tl?&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=0621e45b1cd18ab3d0c7905f1164eed6&language=en_US"><img alt="https://www.amazon.com/Compressor-80-Gallon-EMAX-Industrial-ES05V080I1/dp/B012RJZY3O/ref=as_li_ss_tl?&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=0621e45b1cd18ab3d0c7905f1164eed6&language=en_US" border="0" data-original-height="1500" data-original-width="743" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dFNiWNJLarE/XlKa399eBgI/AAAAAAAAFn4/mq9bljgsNMAFMMgsnzk_HdnIZbeuYZznQCNcBGAsYHQ/s640/emax%2B2%2Bstage%2Bair%2Bcompressor%2B80%2Bgallon%2B.jpg" title="quiet 2-stage air compressor 80 gallon powder coating" width="315" /></a></b></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>To those that are on the fence about whether they decide to get into powder coating, an air compressor may seem like an expensive item that takes up too much space. Don’t let that prohibit you though. Air compressors come in all shapes, sizes, and prices; and there is one available for every level of powder coater, from a complete beginner, to a large established shop. </b></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><b><br />
An air compressor is also incredibly useful to have available to you, even when you’re not powder coating. A large world of pneumatic tools becomes available to you, with the right air compressor. </b></span><br />
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<b>This article will cover the basic parts of an air compressor and the terminology used to describe its performance. I am hoping that this information will help you to choose the right air compressor that will assist your powder coating experience.
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<p><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i><span style="color: #666666;"><span></span>Powdercoatguide.com is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to amazon.com. </span></i> </span></span></p>
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<h3 style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: x-large;">Parts of an Air Compressor </span></h3>
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In case you have no idea what an air compressor is, here is a simple explanation. A reciprocating air compressor consists of three major parts:</div>
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-A <b>tank</b></div>
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-An air <b>pump</b></div>
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-A <b>motor</b></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/--zZ7JbDlnGw/UmIEv1WzNFI/AAAAAAAABPk/59dnxvzv7B8/s1600/COMPRESSOR+PARTS.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Parts of an Air Compressor" border="0" height="632" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/--zZ7JbDlnGw/UmIEv1WzNFI/AAAAAAAABPk/59dnxvzv7B8/s640/COMPRESSOR+PARTS.png" title="Parts of an Air Compressor" width="640" /></a></div>
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The motor can be gas or electric but if you are putting it in your garage, absolutely do not use a gas-powered air compressor. A gas engine produces carbon monoxide which is a deadly, poisonous gas and is not something you want to have in an enclosed room. You can place a gas-powered compressor outside and run the lines inside but it is not as convenient as an electric compressor. The <b>motors</b> job is to drive the pump. The <b>pump</b> is responsible for sucking in and compressing the air. The compressed air from the pump is then plumbed into a <b>tank</b> which stores the air. There are, of course, many different configurations and sizes of these 3 components which determine the efficiency and cost of the compressor.</div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;">Understanding Air Compressor Specs </span></h3>
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Let's discuss some of the specs that you would see when shopping for an air compressor. Hint: The numbers you see on that big flashy sticker smack-dab on the front of the compressor are not so important when choosing one...</div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-nN4SYWx0WYw/UmIGm7ES4uI/AAAAAAAABPw/tI3COki1_q8/s1600/Picture+126427238.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Understanding air compressor specs" border="0" height="480" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-nN4SYWx0WYw/UmIGm7ES4uI/AAAAAAAABPw/tI3COki1_q8/w640-h480/Picture+126427238.jpg" title="Understanding air compressor specs" width="640" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;">
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<span style="font-size: large;">Tank size </span></h4>
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<span style="font-weight: normal;">The tank size determines the physical size of the air compressor. If it were not for the tank, the motor would be running constantly to supply any compressed air. The pump will pump air into the tank until the tank reaches a specified pressure (psi). Once the tank is filled with the specified amount of air, the motor will shut off and will not operate again until the air pressure inside the tank is reduced to a specified amount. The tank size determines how frequently the motor runs. Another way to word it is, the tank size determines how many air tool related tasks you can do before the motor starts to run. A 5-gallon tank would require that the motor run for virtually every task. For an example, removing one bolt with an impact gun will likely empty the tank enough to cause the motor to run when you have a 5-gallon tank. A continuous air tool like a sandblaster uses so much air, it would empty the 5-gallon tank so fast that the motor would never shut off. You can have the biggest motor and pump in the world, but if it is attached to a 3-gallon tank, the motor will run very frequently, but for a very short period of time. If you have a very small motor/pump and a huge tank, the motor will run less frequently, but each running session will last for a very long time. A good all-around tank size for a home garage is 60 to 80 gallons, but honestly, the bigger, the better. </span></h4>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Horsepower (HP)</span></h4>
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The horsepower rating applies to the motor. This hp rating of an air compressor is not extremely relevant to your purchasing decision. The big "HP" number you see stickered onto the front of most air compressors, is usually an overrated peak hp number. This peak hp number is irrelevant to the motors actual running hp which is usually nowhere to be found on the compressor. An easy equation to figure out the actual running hp of the motor is this:</div>
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<i>Amps x Volts = Watts</i></div><i>
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Watts x 0.00134 = Horsepower</i></div>
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I will fill in the equation using the specs from my air compressor motor.</div>
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<i>15 amps x 240 volts = 3600 watts</i></div><i>
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3600 watts x 0.00134 = 4.824 HP</i></div>
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So theoretically, the motor on my air compressor should produce 4.824 HP, but that would only be if the motor was 100% efficient. There are frictional losses that reduce that number by about 10% in general: </div>
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<i>4.824 / 1.10 = <b>4.385 HP</b></i></div>
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The actual running horsepower of the motor is probably pretty close to 4.4 HP, yet my air compressor has a giant sticker on the front that states 7 HP. Manufacturers tend to over-rate the HP specification for marketing purposes, and it is not just the cheap manufacturers that do this. Most of them are guilty of it. Now you will know how to figure out the actual horsepower of your air compressor motor. But again, it is not the most important specification. The motor only serves to drive the pump and to do so without putting a bunch of strain on the motor.</div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Rated Pressure (PSI)</span></h4>
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This pressure specification is another marketing number. It will be on the sticker in big bold numbers right next to the exaggerated horsepower number. All of the components used in the compressor are rated to some maximum pressure and this rated max pressure will be some number a little lower than the rating of those components. A common "Max PSI" for a garage-sized air compressor is around 150 psi. Using the 150 psi example, the motor will run, turning the pump, which pumps air into the tank, until pressure inside of the tank reaches 150 psi. Then the motor will shut off. This number is also pretty irrelevant to your purchasing decision. Along with your air compressor, you will need an air compressor regulator. An air compressor regulator takes that pressure input of 150 psi and reduces it to a pressure that you select. Nearly all air tools, and especially a powder coating gun, are rated for max pressures of much less than 150 psi. A powder coating gun operates at around 35 psi max and sandblasting is usually done at less than 100 psi. So as long as the air compressor has a max pressure of more than 100 psi, it will be plenty for most applications. Do not choose one compressor over the other simply because one states 150 psi and the other states 175 psi, as both will be sufficient.<br />
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<h4 style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: large;">CFM</span></h4>
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This specification is very important and if you could only go by one specification when buying an air compressor, this would be the one to use. CFM (cubic feet of air per minute) determines how much air the pump can put out per minute. The higher the CFM, the faster it can fill the tank with air. If you are using a tool that takes more CFM than the pump is capable than putting out, once you use the reserve air in the tank and the compressor starts running, it will run until you stop using the tool and it can catch up. An easier way to explain CFM is this: Your pump is constantly trying to fill the air tank. That is its job. Any air tool that is being used is a leak in the air tank. How much CFM the tool uses is a measurement of how big the leak is. If the tank is leaking out more air than the pump can put into it, the pump will never shut off. If the tool only uses 0.01 cfm less air than the pump can produce, the pump will run 99% of the time. This only applies to continuous use tools however. If you use an impact wrench for 2 seconds, that's only a 2 second leak. A sandblaster presents a continuous leak though. As long as you are holding down the trigger on your sandblaster, it represents a leak. <br />
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The rule of thumb for deciding how much CFM you need is to figure out what tool you will be using that requires the most CFM and add 3 CFM to be safe. An alternate rule of thumb is to simply buy the most CFM that you can possibly afford. Say your sandblasting gun will be using the most air and it uses 10 cfm at 90psi. You should plan on getting an air compressor that can output at least 13 cfm at 90 psi. If you plan on having someone else use the compressor at the same time, say 2 sandblasting guns being used at once, then double that number and you now need 26 cfm at 90psi.<br />
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><b>Other options to consider when choosing an air compressor:</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Belt-Driven pump vs Gear-Driven Pump </b></span></div>
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Choose belt driven, they are much quieter.</div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Oiled vs Oil-less</b></span></div>
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Choose Oiled. Oil-less compressors are very loud and the pumps usually have a shorter lifespan. </div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>RPM</b></span></div>
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Cheaper air compressor motors will run at 3,450 rpm. If you can afford it, try to find an air compressor that has a lower rpm rating. They will produce less heat and are also quieter. Most all air compressors that you will find locally that are targeted at home use will have an rpm rating of 3,450. </div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><br />
</span> <span style="font-size: large;"><b>Single Stage vs. Two+ Stage</b></span></div>
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A <b><a href="https://www.amazon.com/Ingersoll-Rand-Type-30-Reciprocating-Compressor/dp/B0035HRTI6/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1518336215&sr=8-8&keywords=2+stage+80+gallon+compressor&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=44f3b3a403dc688623291a65b125c123" target="_blank">2-stage Air Compressor</a></b> uses a pump with 2 pistons. The first piston will compressor the air to a certain pressure and then send it through a cooler, and then to another piston that will compress it to a higher pressure. A 3-stage would use the same principle but with 3 pistons. A 2-stage air compressor is capable of outputting much more CFM than a single stage. If it is in your price range, a 2-stage air compressor is ideal for the home shop to ensure you have plenty of air. It is important to mention that just because an air compressor has 2 cylinders does not mean that it is a 2-stage air compressor. There are many single-stage twin cylinder air compressors.<br />
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<a href="https://www.amazon.com/Compressor-80-Gallon-EMAX-Industrial-ES10V080V1/dp/B012RJZS1C/ref=as_li_ss_tl?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B012RJZS1C&pd_rd_r=e573cd79-56b3-46a5-ad3b-a736a4dbfccc&pd_rd_w=IUuKl&pd_rd_wg=Wqazc&pf_rd_p=e532f109-986a-4c2d-85fc-16555146f6b4&pf_rd_r=7SR7DW1AG5ZNXJYB6BV5&psc=1&refRID=7SR7DW1AG5ZNXJYB6BV5&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=a01ecac8331b52a07c5f259917cf354f&language=en_US"><img alt="powder coating sandblasting air compressor" border="0" data-original-height="1500" data-original-width="854" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_UfLbcQVDTU/XlKhfVC5E4I/AAAAAAAAFoE/0OYdbZc88WU8zv1TSP_g6mwhm4BobrzBwCNcBGAsYHQ/s400/emax%2B2%2Bstage%2Bair%2Bcompressor%2B80%2Bgallon%2Btank.jpg" width="227" /></a></div>
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<b><span style="font-size: x-large;"><br /></span></b><b><span style="font-size: x-large;">
</span></b> <b><span style="font-size: x-large;">Why You Need an Air Compressor for Powder Coating:</span></b></div>
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Hopefully by now, you have a better understanding of what all the specifications mean regarding an air compressor. Let's talk about the type of compressor you would need for powder coating. There are three important tools that will be driven by an air compressor:</div>
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<h3 style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: large;">Powder Coating Gun</span></h3>
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Every powder coating gun (except for the Craftsman Powder Coating gun) relies on an air compressor as a source to propel the powder out of the gun and onto the part. Powder coating guns do not require a very large compressor. Some hobbyist powder coaters use nothing more than a <a href="https://www.amazon.com/CRAFTSMAN-CMEC6150K-Gallon-Air-Compressor/dp/B07KHHDJGD/ref=as_li_ss_tl?dchild=1&keywords=pancake+compressor&qid=1602442566&sr=8-2&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=ed74e2b412d5c2ca07617ca8cadd1b4c&language=en_US">6-gallon pancake air compressor</a>. I wouldn't recommend going that small, but anything that is a step up from a pancake compressor should work. A <a href="https://www.amazon.com/WEN-2202-20-Gallon-Oil-Lubricated-Compressor/dp/B07641QJHJ/ref=as_li_ss_tl?dchild=1&keywords=20-gallon+air+compressor&qid=1602442616&sr=8-2&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=21640341eeeed81a694c8bca0fdbf5d2&language=en_US"><b>20-gallon air compressor</b></a> would be plenty for powder coating, blowing off parts, and doing other small tasks around the garage, and it will plug into your regular wall outlet. It won't produce enough air to do any meaningful sandblasting but it is a nice budget-level consumer compressor if you have a sandblasting alternative or if you outsource your blasting.<br />
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<a href="https://www.amazon.com/WEN-2202-20-Gallon-Oil-Lubricated-Compressor/dp/B07641QJHJ/ref=as_li_ss_tl?dchild=1&keywords=20-gallon+air+compressor&qid=1602442616&sr=8-2&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=21640341eeeed81a694c8bca0fdbf5d2&language=en_US"><img alt="https://www.amazon.com/Bostitch-BTFP02012-Gallon-Oil-Free-Compressor/dp/B00UHNM1R0/ref=as_li_ss_tl?keywords=pancake+air+compressor&qid=1582473793&sr=8-3&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=2431cd7b429d2dbf550cebe13a2f7489&language=en_US" border="0" data-original-height="1500" data-original-width="780" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_pnYe_bAFS8/XlKllah1zEI/AAAAAAAAFoQ/3OzuFkrI42cJbjeKn3V3jiXxyQLaIRu4QCNcBGAsYHQ/s320/20%2Bgallon%2Bcheap%2Bbudget%2Bair%2Bcompressor.jpg" width="166" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"> </span></h3>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Blow Gun </span></h3>
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You will use a compressed air blow gun a lot during the powder coating process. They are great for drying wet parts, cleaning your powder coating gun, and blowing off media after sandblasting. They are also useful for lazily dusting the garage. The ideal <b><a href="https://www.amazon.com/Flexzilla-Blow-Gun-Xtreme-Flo-Nozzle/dp/B002Z32OLI/ref=as_li_ss_tl?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B002Z32OLI&pd_rd_r=R81Q2J20P9ZXNZ90FZJA&pd_rd_w=3RpeU&pd_rd_wg=prmdA&psc=1&refRID=R81Q2J20P9ZXNZ90FZJA&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=2273927f61beb94ee64b69945de53fde" target="_blank">blow gun</a><img alt="" border="0" height="1" hidden="" src="https://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=powcoathecomg-20&l=as2&o=1&a=B001F7GABK" style="border: medium none; display: none; margin: 0px;" width="1" /> </b>for powder coating is one that uses a Venturi nozzle which puts out more air than a standard blow gun. Because these are not a continuous use tool when powder coating, meaning your not going to be blowing something off for 20 minutes, almost any compressor will operate it. However, a little pancake compressor will run until you let go of the trigger. <br />
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<a href="https://www.amazon.com/Flexzilla-Blow-Gun-Xtreme-Flo-Nozzle/dp/B002Z32OLI/ref=as_li_ss_tl?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B002Z32OLI&pd_rd_r=R81Q2J20P9ZXNZ90FZJA&pd_rd_w=3RpeU&pd_rd_wg=prmdA&psc=1&refRID=R81Q2J20P9ZXNZ90FZJA&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=2273927f61beb94ee64b69945de53fde"><img alt="https://www.amazon.com/Flexzilla-Blow-Gun-Xtreme-Flo-Nozzle/dp/B002Z32OLI/ref=as_li_ss_tl?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B002Z32OLI&pd_rd_r=R81Q2J20P9ZXNZ90FZJA&pd_rd_w=3RpeU&pd_rd_wg=prmdA&psc=1&refRID=R81Q2J20P9ZXNZ90FZJA&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=2273927f61beb94ee64b69945de53fde" border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SJDqPMhWHPA/Wn_72ZGWbUI/AAAAAAAADNw/JKjEJBiEf1soYU-UGdyy-wO6Jg6RZ2pawCLcBGAs/s320/compressed%2Bair%2Bventuri%2Bblow%2Bgun.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">Sandblaster</span></b></div>
<h3 style="text-align: left;">
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<a href="https://www.amazon.com/Skat-Blast-Sandblast-Sandblasting-Cabinet/dp/B077J85C7Q/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1518336735&sr=8-8&keywords=tp+tools&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=25edd8b5cb6b0c1477bd72f6fabdeb23" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="https://www.amazon.com/Skat-Blast-Sandblast-Sandblasting-Cabinet/dp/B077J85C7Q/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1518336735&sr=8-8&keywords=tp+tools&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=25edd8b5cb6b0c1477bd72f6fabdeb23" border="0" data-original-height="500" data-original-width="500" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LgFWBz8CB9c/Wn_6_jgAXaI/AAAAAAAADNk/nWqFWsBL1QsoRuI5yHrowy-I1BFYBBDIACLcBGAs/s320/tp%2Btools%2Bbest%2Bsandblasting%2Bcabinet.jpg" title="best sandblasting cabinet tp tools" width="320" /></a>A <b><a href="https://www.amazon.com/Skat-Blast-Sandblast-Sandblasting-Cabinet/dp/B077J85C7Q/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1518336735&sr=8-8&keywords=tp+tools&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=25edd8b5cb6b0c1477bd72f6fabdeb23" target="_blank">sandblaster</a></b> uses a LOT of air very quickly. If you plan to do your own blasting, you will want a larger compressor with a high-CFM output pump. The only way you would get by with a smaller one (and by smaller, I mean a 30-gallon) is if you only plan to blast very small parts and not a lot at one time. I feel the bare minimum for blasting is my own compressor which is a 60 gallon, 11 cfm @ 90psi, 4.4 HP compressor. It will keep up with my siphon sandblaster without running continuously, but I like to give it breaks because once it does kick on and start to run, it takes about 5 minutes to shut off. Then it will start running again in another 5 minutes. The reason I give it breaks, is because consumer-level air compressors are not meant to run that frequently. Most of the time I sandblast small to medium sized parts like engine brackets so I don't mind the breaks that much. When I occasionally blast wheels, I wish I had a larger compressor. The compressor will have to cycle on and off about 10 times for each wheel, which equates to a lot of breaks<br />
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Another advantage of a large compressor when sandblasting, is the ability to use a larger sandblasting nozzle. The CFM a sandblaster uses largely depends on what size nozzle you are using. I use 1/4" ID nozzles. A small nozzle like that blasts a very small area at a time but it uses less than air than a larger nozzle. With a larger compressor, you can step up your nozzle size and blast larger areas at a time which makes the whole sandblasting task go by much faster. Industrial sandblasters use a nozzle that resembles a fire hose which they use to blasts ships and buildings, but they need monster-sized compressors to be able to supply enough air for them.<br />
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What this whole article comes down to is that you need a compressor big enough to sandblast the parts that you plan on powder coating. You may think you have the patience to wait for a 30-gallon compressor to catch up while you are sandblasting a set of wheels. You may have that patience for the first set of wheels, but your patience will quickly run out as you continue to sandblast more and more parts. Buy a big enough compressor from the start so your time spent in the garage or shop is efficiently used. It is worth the money. A <b><a href="https://www.amazon.com/Powermate-Vx-PLA4708065-80-Gallon-Compressor/dp/B0083FBDNM/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=E6SBM5M9Q4HYJ71NR50P&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=194068cd8caa597751ddce8a2bbbd352">80-gallon single stage air compressor</a></b> would allow you to get by but a <b><a href="https://www.amazon.com/Compressor-80-Gallon-EMAX-Industrial-ES10V080V1/dp/B012RJZS1C/ref=as_li_ss_tl?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B012RJZS1C&pd_rd_r=e573cd79-56b3-46a5-ad3b-a736a4dbfccc&pd_rd_w=IUuKl&pd_rd_wg=Wqazc&pf_rd_p=e532f109-986a-4c2d-85fc-16555146f6b4&pf_rd_r=7SR7DW1AG5ZNXJYB6BV5&psc=1&refRID=7SR7DW1AG5ZNXJYB6BV5&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=a01ecac8331b52a07c5f259917cf354f&language=en_US">2-stage 80 gallon compressor</a></b><img alt="" border="0" height="1" hidden="" src="https://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=powcoathecomg-20&l=as2&o=1&a=B0054PKYUW" style="border: medium none; display: none; margin: 0px;" width="1" /> would be ideal for a serious hobbyist or small powder coating shop. </div>
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In the next article, I will be discussing <b><a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2014/06/how-to-dry-compressed.html#.Wn_7YedG2Ul">how to keep your compressed air DRY</a></b>. </div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-k8vrtgQyDaU/Uhu4xKqVFcI/AAAAAAAABOk/qV9kK0CO_D0/s1600/Powder+coating+Powders.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating powder" border="0" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-k8vrtgQyDaU/Uhu4xKqVFcI/AAAAAAAABOk/qV9kK0CO_D0/s320/Powder+coating+Powders.jpg" title="powder coating powder" width="320" /></a><span style="font-size: large;"> There are several companies that manufacture powder coating powders. Dupont, PPG, NIC, Tiger Drylac, Sherwin Williams, & 3M are some popular manufactures. However, large companies like these prefer to sell large quantities of powder. It is not practical for them to mess around with selling 1lb here and 1lb there. Some of their "sample sizes" are 50lb boxes. As a small, custom powder coater, you will probably not want 50lbs of any one color so ordering directly from these companies isn't practical. Luckily there are companies out there that buy these powders in the large quantities and re-sell them in much smaller quantities. This allows you to buy powders in 1lb quantities, and in some cases, even 1/2lb quantities. The average price for a pound of powder is about $12 and 1 pound can go a long way. </span><br />
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</div><h3><span style="font-size: x-large;">Powder Sellers that I Trust</span></h3><h3><span style="font-size: x-large;"> </span></h3>I order all all of my powder from the 3 companies listed below. This does not mean that there are not other good companies to order powder from, its just that these 3 have served all my needs so far and I have had no reason to order from another company. If you have a personal good experience with another company, feel free to tell me about them, what you like about them and I can add it to the list. Just use the comment section at the bottom of the page. Now, onto my favorite 3 companies:<br />
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<h4><span style="font-size: large;">Powder365</span></h4><h4><span style="font-size: large;"> </span></h4>Powder365 is an excellent company to order powder from. I have never had an issue with a powder from them. Their customer service is unmatched, if you ever have an issue, they will take care of you. They have a pretty good selection of powders and their prices are good as well. Their site is well-organized and very easy to use. The powder comes double-bagged with re-usable zip-ties on each (I like this little touch, I re-use their zip ties all around my garage). My orders never take longer than 4 days to arrive. They have a very active Powder Coating forum on their site as well. <br />
<a href="https://powder365.com/" target="_blank">Powder365.com</a><br />
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<h4><span style="font-size: large;">All Powder Paints</span></h4><h4><span style="font-size: large;"> </span></h4>All powder paints is also a great place to order powder. Again, I have never had a problem with any of their powders. All Powder Paints seems to have a bigger selection of powders than Powder365 and they also have some specialty colors and unique powders that I have never seen on any other site. My favorite part about their site is they have reviews on their powders. This is a great way to pick one powder over another when all of the powders have the same basic description. Their website is very organized, probably my favorite to use. Prices are about the same as Powder365. Their powders come double-bagged, each bag being knotted(they could use some of those re-usable zip ties). Shipping is super fast for me but I only live a couple hours away from their warehouse in St. Petersburg, Fl.<br />
<a href="http://www.allpowderpaints.com/">AllPowderPaints.com </a><br />
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</div><h4><span style="font-size: large;">Prismatic Powders</span></h4><h4><span style="font-size: large;"> </span></h4>You know how I said that the big powder manufactures don't want to deal with selling small quantities of powders. Well NIC is an exception. They actually do sell small quantities through their own company called Prismatic Powders. Prismatic Powders offers the biggest selection of powders of any site I have ever seen: 6500+ colors. Their prices are also several dollars lower than the above 2 sites. They offer free color swatches which is great. How a powder looks on your monitor is usually different than how it looks in person. Their website is a little more difficult to use, but with the amount of powders they sell, is understandable. To me, the issue with Prismatic is that they have so many colors, it is hard to pick between them. When a site has 15 gloss blacks, all having the same description, it makes choosing difficult. They do have a huge photo gallery that shows their more popular colors. Their shipping times have slowed down drastically recently. They used to be very fast, but not it may be 2 weeks before your powder shows up. <br />
<a href="http://www.prismaticpowders.com/" target="_blank">PrismaticPowders.com</a><br />
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<h3><span style="font-size: x-large;">Ordering Powder Outside of the United States?</span></h3><h3><span style="font-size: x-large;"> </span></h3>It has been brought to my attention that if you order powder from a US company outside of the US, then you will need them to include a MSDS sheet along with the powder for it to pass through customs. Make sure to request a MSDS sheet if ordering from a US company.<br />
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<span style="font-size: x-large;">Learn how to get perfect masking lines. Also several different masking materials explained.</span></h2>
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In the last <b><a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2013/08/masking.html" target="_blank">masking article</a></b>, I covered the very basic masking supplies needed for powder coating and also the reasons you would need to mask. In this article, I will show you some not so common ways to mask off parts when powder coating and also show you how to get nice, clean looking masking lines. <br />
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<h2 style="text-align: left;"><br /><br />
<span style="font-size: x-large;">One extra step for nice, crisp, clean masking lines:</span></h2>
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When you mask off a part with high-temperature tape, the tape can stay on the part the entire time the part is cured in the oven. However, you will find that after the part is done and you try to remove the tape, that the powder around the edge of the tape can flake off leaving a very jagged, messy line. This jagged line doesn't look good or professional at all. I will explain my method to avoid these messy masking lines. <br />
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First, I mask and powder coat my part as usual and put it in the oven. When the part is around 200 degrees, the powder should start to melt, changing from a dry powder look, to a wet speckle look. When the powder just reaches this wet speckle stage, I pull the part out of the oven and hang it back on my rack. Make sure not to touch the part here, it is basically like touching wet paint, and it is also hot enough to burn you. I use a pair of <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Tools-VISE-GRIP-Locking-Original-1602L3/dp/B0000BYD9A/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1464428712&sr=8-1&keywords=needle+nose+vise+grips&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=eb05a9cc3fb800ebc29b02c228185bb0"><b>needle nose vice grip pliers</b></a> to grab the hook that is holding the part, never the part itself. Once the part is hanging on the rack, I continue to hold the part by the hook using the pliers. This gives it some stability so it is not swinging around everywhere. I then very carefully pull off the tape using a <b><a href="http://www.amazon.com/STAINLESS-SCALPEL-STERILE-DDP-QUALITY/dp/B00OTKSUN6/ref=as_li_ss_tl?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1464428874&sr=1-2-catcorr&keywords=scalpel&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=d82fc18fac03de2389720630e13d2eef">scalpel</a></b> and tweezers, making sure not to touch any of the powder coated piece. Just gently stick a scalpel, razor blade, or exact-o knife underneath the edge of the tape to lift it up a little bit. Then you can use tweezers or your fingers to remove it from the part completely. For masked off holes, you can stab the scalpel through the middle of the tape, the hole then leaves something to grab onto with the tweezers. I also remove any silicone plugs at this time using needle-nosed pliers.<br />
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-gDjDZVT64io/V0ltrH9QJ0I/AAAAAAAACgg/4JnCFPN3gMcY8zX5nnDIxeG5a78M5v6kQCLcB/s1600/Untitled.png" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="powder coat masking" border="0" height="320" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-gDjDZVT64io/V0ltrH9QJ0I/AAAAAAAACgg/4JnCFPN3gMcY8zX5nnDIxeG5a78M5v6kQCLcB/s320/Untitled.png" title="" width="204" /></a>You will need to work fast but carefully to do this. You don't want the part to cool down too much. If the part is too cool, the powder can flake off. If the part is too hot, the powder will be stringy and stick to the tape as you pull it. The stringy powder can land on previously masked area, ruining the clean line. Right around 180-200 degrees F is the sweet spot for pulling the tape. Keep your infrared thermometer handy and check the temperature as you unmask your part. On large, extensively masked parts, the part can cool too much leaving you with flaky lines as you unmask. If you find the part has cooled too much, you can re-heat the part using a heat gun or a <b><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00008ZA09/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B00008ZA09&linkCode=as2&tag=powcoathecomg-20" target="_blank">torch</a></b><img alt="" border="0" height="1" src="https://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=powcoathecomg-20&l=as2&o=1&a=B00008ZA09" style="border: medium none; margin: 0px;" width="1" /> at a distance. Once you have heated the area back up to 200 degrees, you can start removing the tape again. Alternatively, you can transfer the part back into the oven again to re-heat it if you do not have a <a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004TI26/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=24a0a45c6201f5005e5e77a178442143&language=en_US">heat gun</a> or torch. Once a part cools down too much below 160, I heat up the area with the heat gun in one hand, and my infrared temp gun in the other hand.<br />
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After all of your masking is removed from the part, you then put it back in the oven and continue as normal: set the temperature as specified by your powder's instructions, wait until the part reaches that temperature, and then start your timer. Once the part is done and comes out of the oven, you will see beautiful, crisp, clean masking lines. This method also opens the door to many different types of masking materials that cannot withstand 400 degrees like the high-temp powder coating tape can.<br />
<h3>
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</h3>
<h3>
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</h3>
<h3>
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</h3>
<h3 style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-large;">Alternatives to High-Temp Powder Coating Tape</span></h3>
<h3 style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-large;"> </span></h3>
<h3>
<span style="font-size: large;">3M Blue & Green Painters Tape</span></h3>
<br />
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004MEBBWG/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=40c4ff3aba10ff12391d33e26281dcd3" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating masking tape 3m" border="0" height="136" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8ZqeXp4g-B0/V75VBJbob8I/AAAAAAAACwM/HExF0kTaYVcyNAz58qgqas8PLdK9AaJnACLcB/s200/71WpFrWwS0L._SL1500_.jpg" title="" width="200" /></a> 3M Painters tape is much easier to work with than the high-temperature powder coating tape as it is able to conform around bends. The 3M painters tape I have used and had success with is the standard blue painters tape and the green Automotive Performance Masking Tape. The 1" wide rolls seem to be the most versatile. The <b><a href="https://www.amazon.com/FBA_209024A-Scotch-2090-Painters-Tape/dp/B01KQQOHSI/ref=as_li_ss_tl?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1518339242&sr=1-6&keywords=3m+blue+painters+tape&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=56af26007f38511f727c9dcdc9d5f632">blue painters tape</a></b> can withstand about 200 degrees in the oven, can conform around mild bends, and isn't as sticky as the green tape. When you are masking a part with gloves on, tape that is not so sticky is actually a blessing.<br />
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The <b><a href="http://www.amazon.com/3M-03433-Automotive-Performance-Masking/dp/B004IJVYA4/ref=as_li_ss_tl?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1464428609&sr=1-1&keywords=3m+automotive+performance+tape&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=61c58b56e62001219634e4e1660a1316">green painters tape</a></b> comes off easy even after reaching 250 degrees, can conform around more complex bends than the blue, and has a much stronger adhesive. The green tape is somewhat stretchable, so it is very good for complex parts. The only issue with it is when you are masking a part wearing gloves. The green tape likes to stick to the gloves more so than the part so there is a little bit of a battle there. This type of tape cuts easily with scissors, a razor blade, or a scalpel. However, when using a scalpel, it does not leave as crisp of a line as the high-temp tape. <span style="color: red;"> </span><br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zUngxiLqodo/V0ll4ZakRDI/AAAAAAAACfk/vhwe-QXo1aYL_E3UagW_n8lYtqqoq-a4wCLcB/s1600/DSC_0068.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="powder coated cam gears masking 3m tape" border="0" height="360" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zUngxiLqodo/V0ll4ZakRDI/AAAAAAAACfk/vhwe-QXo1aYL_E3UagW_n8lYtqqoq-a4wCLcB/s640/DSC_0068.JPG" title="" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="color: red;"><b>When using either of these tapes, it is very important not to let it get too hot in the oven.</b> </span> If you forget about it and leave it on the part for a full cure (~400 for 10 minutes), it will no longer be easy to remove. If you have ever tried removing the regular beige colored masking tape after it has been stuck to something for a couple of years, you will have a pretty good idea of what this painters tape is like if you leave it in the oven too long. The adhesive burns and the tape turns hard. It will peel off the part in pieces leaving a huge mess. Just remember not to use this tape for a full cure. If you use this tape, make sure to follow the instructions above. <br />
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<h3>
<span style="font-size: large;">Aluminum Foil</span></h3>
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Aluminum foil is a great way to mask large areas that would otherwise take many rows of tape. Aluminum foil is fine in the oven at any temperature involved in powder coating. Aluminum foil obviously has no adhesive properties, so it will need to be supplemented with tape. Apply a piece of tape where you want your masking line to be. Lay out your aluminum foil to cover the area you want to mask off, but you want the edge of the aluminum foil to hang over your piece of tape a little. Then apply another piece of tape on top of your original tape, sandwiching the aluminum foil in-between. Aluminum foil is a great time-saver and much cheaper than tape for the amount of area it covers. <br />
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<h3>
<span style="font-size: large;">Glad Press' n Seal</span></h3>
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<b><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009P684S/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B0009P684S&linkCode=as2&tag=powcoathecomg-20">Glad Press'n Seal</a></b> is a great, although unusual, way to mask large areas when powder coating. For those of you that have never used it, it is basically a saran wrap that can actually stick to other things other than itself. You can see one application here: <br />
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-R9l39h0-QpQ/V0lrze3JMtI/AAAAAAAACgE/hbH9Zzezp9gsOxi3Q-BadfmXPRjxA3PoACLcB/s1600/IMAG0740.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="powder coat masking glad press n seal oil pan large areas" border="0" height="356" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-R9l39h0-QpQ/V0lrze3JMtI/AAAAAAAACgE/hbH9Zzezp9gsOxi3Q-BadfmXPRjxA3PoACLcB/s640/IMAG0740.jpg" title="" width="640" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I was able to mask off the interior of this oil pan in less than a minute using the Glad Press'n Seal<img alt="" border="0" height="1" src="https://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=powcoathecomg-20&l=as2&o=1&a=B0009P684S" style="border: medium none; margin: 0px;" width="1" />. To use it in this type of application, just follow these steps:<br />
<ul>
<li>Lay the Press'n Seal piece on your bench with the sticky side facing up. </li>
<li>Lay the part to be masked upside down on top of it and press it down.</li>
<li>Turn part over and really press down the Press'n Seal to make sure it is stuck to the part.</li>
<li>Turn part upside down again.</li>
<li>Take a scalpel or razor blade and trim the excess off around the outside edge of the part.</li>
</ul>
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It is great for parts that have large flat areas like this oil pan, it also works well on valve covers, heads, engine blocks, etc. The downside is that it the Glad Press'n Seal cannot handle any oven temperatures without shriveling up. It must be removed before the part enters the oven. I do this by very carefully peeling up one area with a scalpel and slowly pulling it up. Make sure that no powder fell off of the Press'n Seal onto the area that was masked, then put the part in the oven and cure as usual. <br />
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<h3>
<span style="font-size: large;">Powder Removal: Wiping with a damp finger</span></h3>
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</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-lcIISCo_hUc/V0lqftcNrRI/AAAAAAAACf4/lsy-h44OP3kIxcfTI7sWV7QJC7Pz4gsVQCLcB/s1600/1%2B%252814%2529.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating finger wipe masking calipers" border="0" height="360" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-lcIISCo_hUc/V0lqftcNrRI/AAAAAAAACf4/lsy-h44OP3kIxcfTI7sWV7QJC7Pz4gsVQCLcB/s640/1%2B%252814%2529.JPG" title="" width="640" /></a></div>
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The last form of masking I will talk about in this article is not really masking at all. There are some situations where you will get better results by spraying the entire part with powder, even the area you wanted to mask, and then removing the powder from this area before you put the part in the oven. This is best done on raised areas, such as the raised letters on a intake manifold, valve cover or brake caliper. You can remove the powder using many different methods. Below I will explain one of the methods. <br />
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-F4wYT9beUGY/V0lrWe8NNSI/AAAAAAAACgA/9weNaP3Q2XQsOGLWd0pIbF8tqLpA_jR3gCKgB/s1600/1%2B%252832%2529.JPG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating mitsubishi calipers finger wipe masking" border="0" height="225" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-F4wYT9beUGY/V0lrWe8NNSI/AAAAAAAACgA/9weNaP3Q2XQsOGLWd0pIbF8tqLpA_jR3gCKgB/s400/1%2B%252832%2529.JPG" title="" width="400" /></a>You can use a damp finger to wipe powder from a raised surface. Keeping your finger slightly wet helps the powder to stick to your finger and not just brush off onto another area of your part. I keep a cup of water and a rag at my side. I dip my finger in the water and wipe off the excess on the rag, just leaving my finger slightly damp. Then carefully I start to wipe off the powder. The trick to this method is to only wipe a very small section at a time so the powder doesn't build up. I wipe about 1/2" with my finger, before I clean my finger with the rag, re-dampen my finger, and repeat. When you wipe, do so to collect the powder on your finger and not brush it off onto your part. It takes some time, and you must be extremely careful to only wipe what you are meaning to wipe. One little bump into a good area of powder, means starting all over again. It is best for your part to be sitting on a solid surface if possible.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ZQF2Tl6W1Ng/UhXDXked5mI/AAAAAAAABNg/EwM6QG43vR0/s1600/powder+coated+starter+motor.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="powder coat finger wiping masking" border="0" height="400" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ZQF2Tl6W1Ng/UhXDXked5mI/AAAAAAAABNg/EwM6QG43vR0/s400/powder+coated+starter+motor.JPG" title="powder coat wiping" width="315" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Uncured powder wiped from mating surface using damp Q-tips.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Sometimes your fingers are a little too bulky or not the right shape to use. You can also use damp Q-tips, towels, sponges, or whatever you can think of that can wipe off the powder successfully. This starter motor was done with lots and lots of damp Q-tips. It was powder coated with bonded black chrome, which also needs a clear coat. This entire process had to be repeated for the clear coat. <br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-vHADZA9GQ5Y/UhXEzoSwlnI/AAAAAAAABNs/85otJ8proiU/s1600/starter+powder+coated+2.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="powder coat finger wipe masking" border="0" height="300" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-vHADZA9GQ5Y/UhXEzoSwlnI/AAAAAAAABNs/85otJ8proiU/s320/starter+powder+coated+2.JPG" title="powder coat finger wipe" width="320" /></a></div>
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So now that you know a couple new ways to mask off your parts before powder coating, I am going to wrap up the article with one more piece of advice. <br />
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When you mask off a part using high-temp tape, foil, etc., it is only good for one coat of powder. If you want to spray 3 coats of powder, you should mask the part 3 times. Trying to re-use the same masking for more than one coat always ends up looking terrible. When I was new to coating, it took me so long to mask things, I thought the idea of doing it all over again for another coat was ridiculous. I didn't unmask my part and just used the tape that was already on there for the 2nd coat. The edges came out terrible. The lines were flaky and jagged, the powder actually bulged up on the edges and I ended up having to completely redo the part. By trying to save time, I spent much longer in the end, so just take my advice and re-mask for every additional coat.<br />
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Thanks for reading and if you enjoyed what you read or have any questions, feel free to leave a comment. Stay tuned for the next article. See more masking techniques in the previous <b><a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2013/08/masking.html" target="_blank">Masking article</a></b>.<br />
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">Masking is a tedious but required part of powder coating. Masking powder coat is done for either appearance or for function and both of these topics will be explained more in-depth in this article. I will also discuss some of the more basic, but important, powder coating masking materials and supplies. </span></b></h2>
Related articles: <a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2013/08/powder-coat-masking-part-ii.html#.VYtSgVI73bk" target="_blank">Masking Part II</a> and <a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/p/blog-page_24.html" target="_blank">Wall-Mounted High Temp Tape Dispenser</a>.<br />
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When powder coating, it is important to mask off certain areas of certain things. Powder coating is a thicker coating than most paints and if you don't mask certain areas, things might not go back together when you're done. You can also use masking techniques to make designs, logos, and words on the things you are powder coating for a different look. Masking techniques and supplies are not all standardized, sometimes you have to get creative to mask off certain items. Again, this will be one of several articles on masking, so I will cover the basics of masking here. <br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-qv8pMIaXbvE/Uf3xZdBZQAI/AAAAAAAABH0/9vD5Tujtzvw/s1600/IMAG0930.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="powder coat tape masking" border="0" height="356" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-qv8pMIaXbvE/Uf3xZdBZQAI/AAAAAAAABH0/9vD5Tujtzvw/s640/IMAG0930.jpg" title="powder coat tape masking" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This alternator case is masked with Polyester Powder Coating Tape. This tape can withstand 400 degrees without degrading.</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<h3 style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-large;">Reasons for Masking</span></h3>
<h4 style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: large;">Appearance:</span></h4>
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<div style="text-align: left;">
Masking can give a powder coated item many different appearances. Let's use wheels as an example. It is popular to powder coat the lip of the wheel in one color, and the spokes of the wheel in a different color. How does masking come into play to get this two-tone look? By coating the wheel in one color, masking off the areas you want to stay that color, and then coating the exposed areas in another color. You then have two tone wheels that wouldn't have been possible without masking.<br />
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-PHoFthZ0knY/Wv-I1_T98dI/AAAAAAAADUQ/IMvsPe1yOuYwVj0ezOeBD1BpRWkqFloogCLcBGAs/s1600/17342674_1153903301405521_6126206423559327733_n.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="720" height="640" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-PHoFthZ0knY/Wv-I1_T98dI/AAAAAAAADUQ/IMvsPe1yOuYwVj0ezOeBD1BpRWkqFloogCLcBGAs/w480-h640/17342674_1153903301405521_6126206423559327733_n.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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<h4 style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: large;">Tight Tolerances:</span></h4>
<h4 style="text-align: left;">
</h4>
<div style="text-align: left;">
The alternator case above has a recessed hole in the middle. That hole was masked because, when assembled, a bearing fits into it. The bearing fits into the hole so tight, that had it not been masked, the bearing would no longer fit. This is something you need consider before powder coating. When powder coating automotive parts especially, there are many assemblies that fit with very tight tolerances. You can see another example with this brake caliper down below. The 2 large holes were masked off from the powder coat so the caliper pistons would still be able to fit inside.</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-YNvmwuiuJkw/Uf33bc8hYGI/AAAAAAAABIE/YbOt6YYx2pY/s1600/Picture+1097.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="powder coat brake caliper masking" border="0" height="480" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-YNvmwuiuJkw/Uf33bc8hYGI/AAAAAAAABIE/YbOt6YYx2pY/s640/Picture+1097.jpg" title="powder coat brake caliper masking" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Caliper Piston bores free of powder coating to allow proper piston function.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<div style="text-align: left;">
Other tight tolerance areas are bolt holes. When a bolt hole is powder coated, it can cause a lot of difficulty with threading the bolt in. If the bolt will not thread into the powder coated hole, the hole must be cleaned of powder coat with a <b><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000P6UNHE/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B000P6UNHE&linkCode=as2&tag=powcoathecomg-20" target="_blank">thread chaser</a></b> or tap. A thread chaser cleans and straightens the threads but does not cut into the metal like a tap does. I recommend a thread chaser but they are not near as common as taps and impossible to find locally. Thread chasers are a good tool to have in the garage regardless of powder coating. </div>
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<h4>
<span style="font-size: large;">Electrical Connections (Grounds):</span></h4>
<h4>
</h4>
This is often overlooked when powder coating. There are some parts, such as starters and alternators, that receive their ground not from a wire, but from being bolted to the engine, which then, is connected to the battery via a ground or negative wire. In the case of an alternator, your engine serves as the wire to connect it to the battery. From the factory, the alternator, the alternator bracket, and the spot on the engine where the alternator bracket bolts to, will all have a bare metal surface to allow the electrical connection. Powder coating serves as an electrical insulator: it does not conduct electricity. Say you powder coat the alternator without masking off anything. The alternator will now be insulated from the alternator bracket and will no longer serve to charge the battery. This is the same with the starter, if it is powder coated entirely, the car will no longer start, because the connection is blocked.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ub-a3mtJiko/Uf_sYwDdp9I/AAAAAAAABIk/6C-W_xfh3Eo/s1600/IMAG09602.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="powder coat masking grounds" border="0" height="360" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ub-a3mtJiko/Uf_sYwDdp9I/AAAAAAAABIk/6C-W_xfh3Eo/s640/IMAG09602.JPG" title="powder coat masking grounds" width="640" /></a></div>
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The alternator pictured connects to a alternator bracket in 3 places, all 3 of those places were masked so they remain bare metal. The alternator bracket was also masked in those 3 locations.<br />
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You must keep that in mind before power coating. Before you even remove a part, take note of how it mounts and take care to mask those mounts accordingly. It's not just the starters and alternators. Lots of sensors are grounded through their threaded bodies. Meaning when the sensor threads into a metal bracket, that is how it connects to the ground. If you are powder coating the bracket, make sure to mask the threads and the brackets mounts.</div>
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<h4>
<span style="font-size: large;">Structural Mating Surfaces: </span></h4>
<h4>
</h4>
By structural mating surfaces, I mean, where 2 critical components meet and there should be metal to metal contact. This includes wheel hubs, brake caliper mounting points, suspension mounting points, etc. There is some debate on whether a layer of powder coat has an effect on anything, but I look at it this way: Those areas are usually bare metal from the manufacturer. When you buy brand new wheels, the wheel hubs are left in bare metal from the manufacturer. I choose to follow the manufacturers choices here as they are the ones with the engineers. If two parts are mounted together using grade 8 or higher bolts, the specification is that where those two parts meet, must be bare metal.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-QaDfzxrY9CU/UgDkh6lxkkI/AAAAAAAABJs/LEW2d-i7MJI/s1600/spindle+masked.JPG" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="powder coat masking mating surfaces" border="0" height="395" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-QaDfzxrY9CU/UgDkh6lxkkI/AAAAAAAABJs/LEW2d-i7MJI/s640/spindle+masked.JPG" title="powder coat mask mating surfaces" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The mating surface of of this steering knuckle masked.</td></tr>
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<h4>
</h4>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Dln5aXFRvHE/UgDmecOIb3I/AAAAAAAABJ8/-7hLHvlC-dk/s1600/IMAG00422+(3).jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="powder coat mask mating surfaces" border="0" height="355" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Dln5aXFRvHE/UgDmecOIb3I/AAAAAAAABJ8/-7hLHvlC-dk/s640/IMAG00422+(3).jpg" title="powder coat mask mating surfaces" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The mating surface left in bare metal where the wheel spindle mounts to the steering knuckle.</td></tr>
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<h4>
<span style="font-size: large;"> </span></h4>
<h4>
<span style="font-size: large;"> </span></h4>
<h4>
<span style="font-size: large;">Gasket Surfaces:</span></h4>
<h4>
</h4>
Gasket surfaces should also be masked off before powder coating. Anything that uses a gasket to contain fluids fits in this category: valve covers, oil pans, water pumps, oil pumps, oil filter housings, etc. Not masking these surfaces increases the chances of leaks. <br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-4zMvf1GVPDk/VYuD2CdLD_I/AAAAAAAAB70/XjY9lZslaOM/s1600/DSC_0014%2B%2528Large%2529.PNG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating how to mask" border="0" height="360" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-4zMvf1GVPDk/VYuD2CdLD_I/AAAAAAAAB70/XjY9lZslaOM/w640-h360/DSC_0014%2B%2528Large%2529.PNG" title="powder coating how to mask" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"> </span></h3>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"> </span></h3>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"> </span></h3>
<h3 style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-large;">COMMON MASKING SUPPLIES</span></h3>
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<h4>
<span style="font-size: large;">High Temperature Tape:</span></h4>
<h4>
<span style="font-size: large;"> </span></h4>
<h4>
</h4>
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UCBIX1A/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=ea32e34da9eb16ee72cd6a906ac74ca2" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating tape assortment" border="0" height="160" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-8cVfwCEan70/V75WvvvKBEI/AAAAAAAACwk/eXpT6ZiP33of1BXt4ArLz7gYdejWnmy-gCLcB/s200/71WOd1bYOxL._SL1500_2.jpg" title="" width="200" /></a>High temperature polyester tape is the most common masking solution for powder coating. It can withstand sustained temperatures above 400 degrees without turning into goo like normal tape would. <span style="color: red;">Do not use any type of normal household tape for a full-length oven cure. It will melt into the powder and turn into a mess, usually resulting in stripping and redoing the part. <span style="color: black;">The high temp tape can be a little hard to work with as it is not flexible like masking tape is. But the tape is still a necessity for powder coating. </span></span>It does cut easily and it does leave clean lines. I personally use and recommend a roll of <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AFOE49O/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00AFOE49O&linkCode=as2&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=363WIWWIN7GJYLLJ" target="_blank">1/2 width</a> and <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Polyester-Tape-Temperature-Thickness-Anodizing/dp/B07HCT7KC5/ref=as_li_ss_tl?dchild=1&keywords=powder+coating+tape+1%22&qid=1602443422&sr=8-4&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=ece10fef0b558ae07b246c38202405ff&language=en_US" target="_blank">1" width tape</a>. With those 2 sizes, you can mask smaller areas and larger areas without spending a lot of time. However, it is helpful to have different sizes for different situations. Check out the available tape sizes below. <br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><b>High-Temp Tape Sizes:</b></span></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DVBMOWW/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00DVBMOWW&linkCode=as2&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=ULF27UOPX2D6CGCK" target="_blank"><br />
</a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UCBIX1A/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00UCBIX1A&linkCode=as2&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=3X26TY3NBDEZR22L" target="_blank">1/4" Tape (kit)</a> </div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UCBIX1A/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00UCBIX1A&linkCode=as2&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=3X26TY3NBDEZR22L" target="_blank">3/8" Tape (kit)</a> </div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AFOE49O/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00AFOE49O&linkCode=as2&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=363WIWWIN7GJYLLJ" target="_blank">1/2" Tape</a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00735EIM6/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00735EIM6&linkCode=as2&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=E7PKUYTOMP64CDT5" target="_blank">3/4" Tape </a> </div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/Polyester-Tape-Temperature-Thickness-Anodizing/dp/B07HCT7KC5/ref=as_li_ss_tl?dchild=1&keywords=powder+coating+tape+1%22&qid=1602443422&sr=8-4&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=ece10fef0b558ae07b246c38202405ff&language=en_US" target="_blank">1" Tape</a> </div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VUDSH0Q/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00VUDSH0Q&linkCode=as2&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=E3H7XIWSNIZ5QMR2" target="_blank">1.5" Tape </a> </div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JE0KPMK/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00JE0KPMK&linkCode=as2&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=Y23JNUFO5KHHPWO2" target="_blank">2" Tape</a> </div>
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<br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rNMsNlYvy3o/X4NaYyQL9eI/AAAAAAAAK0c/8E3Zwv7fxRAxwqOgdNjGlwY-5Erova9ZQCNcBGAsYHQ/s960/Brake%2BCaliper%2BMasking%2B%25281%2529.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="960" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rNMsNlYvy3o/X4NaYyQL9eI/AAAAAAAAK0c/8E3Zwv7fxRAxwqOgdNjGlwY-5Erova9ZQCNcBGAsYHQ/w640-h480/Brake%2BCaliper%2BMasking%2B%25281%2529.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://www.amazon.com/TapeCase-Green-Powder-Coating-Discs/dp/B01J9W4UX2/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1518338927&sr=8-3&keywords=powder+coating+tape+discs&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=27a490c5938fadc5ea4283c3bfed1ba5" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="powder coat masking discs" border="0" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-bhFgjz_UFtw/V75Wv2li2TI/AAAAAAAACwo/yJVdVxen2SkGZ9Li9v8Geah8Lk9qguXzgCEw/s1600/q.jpg" title="powder coat masking discs" /></a>Another type of tape to be aware of are these <a href="https://www.amazon.com/TapeCase-Green-Powder-Coating-Discs/dp/B01J9W4UX2/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1518338927&sr=8-3&keywords=powder+coating+tape+discs&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=27a490c5938fadc5ea4283c3bfed1ba5" target="_blank">high-temp tape discs</a>. These are a life saver in some situations. Before finding them, I used to trace various sized sockets onto a piece of tape to give me the size I needed, and then cut it out with scissors. That's when I found out cutting out a perfect circle free-hand is near impossible. These discs come in various sizes but I have not been able to find an assortment pack at this point, so I just order them on an as-needed basis. Just keep them in mind if you find yourself needing to mask perfect circles.<br />
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<h3>
<span style="font-size: large;">Silicone Plugs and Caps:</span></h3>
<h4>
</h4>
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<a href="https://www.amazon.com/502-Piece-Professional-Plug-Kit/dp/B015L2I5DA/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1533400845&sr=8-13&keywords=powder+coating+plugs&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=8b8609e1be68375b24a80aa426d732e7&language=en_US"><img alt="https://www.amazon.com/502-Piece-Professional-Plug-Kit/dp/B015L2I5DA/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1533400845&sr=8-13&keywords=powder+coating+plugs&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=8b8609e1be68375b24a80aa426d732e7&language=en_US" border="0" data-original-height="1500" data-original-width="1500" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ElV-9fUYggk/W2XXOL_bDOI/AAAAAAAADf8/xGSMk5gy48AvVznmJEWSSdgLL2EWYILcwCLcBGAs/w640-h640/powder%2Bcoating%2Bsilicone%2Bplugs.jpg" title="powde coating high-temp silicone plugs" width="640" /></a> </div>
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<a href="https://www.amazon.com/Silicone-Assortment-Powder-Coating-Supplies/dp/B00L4O8TR2/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1518339048&sr=8-3&keywords=powder+coating+silicone+plugs&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=abdbb43101e9dd79e4b830e90c81c15b"><b>Silicone plugs</b></a> are cone shaped pieces of silicone that fit into various sized holes. They are perfect for masking off bolt holes. Because they are tapered like a cone, each one fits a few different sized holes. They are re-usable and do not degrade at all in the oven. It it ideal to buy a couple of various kits so you have a variety of different sizes on hand. If you are in search of more specialized plugs, check out <a href="http://www.epsi.com/" target="_blank">Epsi.com</a> They have the largest assortment of masking supplies I have seen. They will send you a text-book sized catalog for free if you call and request it. <br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-8ei61nGQlEM/UgEDC7D-A6I/AAAAAAAABKc/LEjgMIaxy_Y/s1600/IMAG0604.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="powder coating masking holes silicone plugs" border="0" height="360" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-8ei61nGQlEM/UgEDC7D-A6I/AAAAAAAABKc/LEjgMIaxy_Y/s640/IMAG0604.jpg" title="powder coating masking holes silicone plugs" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Silicone Plugs were used to mask this coil pack bracket.</b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<b>Specialty Plugs </b><br />
There are many different kinds of specialty plugs out there but a few are really helpful when powder coating common items.<br />
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The <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Silicone-Rubber-Powder-Coating-Masking/dp/B01M0FFP8Z/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1489828485&sr=8-1&keywords=powder+coat+silicone+plug+cup&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=ff0f4a29ee588582eae1c3d6b2a796b2">red plug</a> below specifically fits 30 oz stainless steel tumblers such as Yeti cups.<br />
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<a href="https://www.amazon.com/Silicone-Rubber-Powder-Coating-Masking/dp/B01M0FFP8Z/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1489828485&sr=8-1&keywords=powder+coat+silicone+plug+cup&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=ff0f4a29ee588582eae1c3d6b2a796b2"><img alt="powder coating yeti cup masking inside silicone plug" border="0" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TQ4foajmoH8/WMz7HAckf3I/AAAAAAAADBo/NH_D7vJTgaotcqXVgzkVZil-t6SBoQE2QCLcB/s320/yeti%2Bcup%2Bmasking%2Bplug.jpg" title="" width="320" /> </a></div>
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-RavZ1Ni4s-8/Wv95kopPdkI/AAAAAAAADUA/tiN0O0ETnpYsJ6Y-XcbIbb7HchPFHo1nwCLcBGAs/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Bstainless%2Bsteel%2Byeti%2Bcup%2Btumbler%2Bstand%2Bsilicone%2Bplug.jpg"><img alt="powder coating staintless steel tumbler yeti cup stand" border="0" data-original-height="400" data-original-width="298" height="640" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-RavZ1Ni4s-8/Wv95kopPdkI/AAAAAAAADUA/tiN0O0ETnpYsJ6Y-XcbIbb7HchPFHo1nwCLcBGAs/w477-h640/powder%2Bcoating%2Bstainless%2Bsteel%2Byeti%2Bcup%2Btumbler%2Bstand%2Bsilicone%2Bplug.jpg" title="" width="477" /></a></div>
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When powder coating brake calipers, the caliper piston bore needs to be masked off to prevent sandblasting media and powder from getting inside which can affect the polished finish and ruin the brake caliper. The easiest way to mask off the caliper piston bores is with a silicone plug. Most calipers have different side piston bores so it is best to measure your caliper pistons bores with a <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-01407A-Electronic-Millimeter-Conversion/dp/B000GSLKIW/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1526688104&sr=8-3&keywords=digital+caliper&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=298a2f910674dd4ad9fe114f4f884057">caliper tool</a> or ruler to make sure you order the right size. The range of silicone plug sizes below should fit almost any caliper.</div>
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<h4>
<b>Silicone Plugs for Specific Brake Piston Bore Sizes:</b></h4>
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<a href="https://www.amazon.com/High-Temp-Silicone-Painting-Supplies/dp/B015TCD86Q/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1526688934&sr=8-4&keywords=#5+High+Temp+Silicone+plug&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=4d1671de8057815d30df25befe75b2be">23.012mm ⟶ 26.975mm 0.906"</a><a href="https://www.amazon.com/High-Temp-Silicone-Painting-Supplies/dp/B015TCD86Q/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1526688934&sr=8-4&keywords=#5+High+Temp+Silicone+plug&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=2f2c52349d29bf9ddded4566d6fe633c"> ⟶ </a><a href="https://www.amazon.com/High-Temp-Silicone-Painting-Supplies/dp/B015TCD86Q/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1526688934&sr=8-4&keywords=#5+High+Temp+Silicone+plug&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=2f2c52349d29bf9ddded4566d6fe633c">1.062"</a></div>
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<a href="https://www.amazon.com/High-Temp-Silicone-Painting-Supplies/dp/B018H0N0BK/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1526689242&sr=8-3&keywords=#6+High+Temp+Silicone+plug&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=0b09cb38c51d391d7262c901ec447371">26.187mm ⟶ 31.750mm 1.031" ⟶ 1.250"</a></div>
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<a href="https://www.amazon.com/High-Temp-Silicone-Painting-Supplies/dp/B018H1G72S/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1526688480&sr=8-1&keywords=#7+High+Temp+Silicone+plug&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=e816f0adc85b1a916962bbfbe3fb0d55">30.150mm ⟶ 36.500mm 1.187" ⟶ 1.437"</a></div>
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<a href="https://www.amazon.com/High-Temp-Silicone-Painting-Supplies/dp/B018H6ZOXQ/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1526687544&sr=8-3&keywords=#8+high+temp+silicone+plug&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=f686222d941676eb834bf09fe053a1c1">33.325mm ⟶ 41.275mm 1.312" ⟶ 1.625"</a></div>
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<a href="https://www.amazon.com/High-Temp-Silicone-Painting-Supplies/dp/B018H7VYU2/ref=as_li_ss_tl?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B018H7VYU2&pd_rd_r=GYYQGTBJ5AZ70EESVED7&pd_rd_w=fvRP9&pd_rd_wg=4GulY&psc=1&refRID=GYYQGTBJ5AZ70EESVED7&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=f5718a0ba5289186f24f5093b0f7358d">38.100mm ⟶ 44.450mm 1.500" ⟶ 1.750"</a></div>
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/High-Temp-Silicone-Painting-Supplies/dp/B018H8H1LC/ref=as_li_ss_tl?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B018H8H1LC&pd_rd_r=GYYQGTBJ5AZ70EESVED7&pd_rd_w=fvRP9&pd_rd_wg=4GulY&psc=1&refRID=GYYQGTBJ5AZ70EESVED7&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=37a6bbda00e611ff2fcf3300811897ea">41.275mm ⟶ 50.800mm 1.625" ⟶ 2.000"</a><br />
<script src="//z-na.amazon-adsystem.com/widgets/onejs?MarketPlace=US"></script><a href="https://www.amazon.com/High-Temp-Silicone-Rubber-Coating/dp/B01LXTPB1P/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1526688445&sr=8-3&keywords=#11+High+Temp+Silicone+plug&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=6b97e4629565636818362b1fae03c4fc">47.625mm ⟶ 55.956mm 1.875" ⟶ 2.203"</a><br />
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/High-Temp-Silicone-Tapered-Masking/dp/B01NCMCVZS/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1526687699&sr=8-4&keywords=#12+high+temp+silicone+plug&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=e1a09b2a84b90ed4885807f9b8df2e0a">53.975mm ⟶ 63.500mm 2.125" ⟶ 2.500"</a><br />
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/High-Temp-Silicone-Tapered-Masking/dp/B01N1SNL1C/ref=as_li_ss_tl?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1526687722&sr=1-5&keywords=#13+high+temp+silicone+plug&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=74c85e1c2b47811ad778da321a942201">57.937mm ⟶ 68.250mm 2.281" ⟶ 2.687"</a><br />
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<b>Caps</b> are basically the opposite of the plug, they are silicone like the plugs, however they are shaped to go over studs. Normally not used as often as tapered plugs, but they are good to to have if you know that the parts you will be coating do have attached studs, you can see them <b><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00M589P42/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00M589P42&linkCode=as2&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=KWGWWS2UUWARTABA" target="_blank">here</a></b>.<br />
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<a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00M589P42/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=395e38220be285a2e8f55c9f78deb421" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating silicone stud caps" border="0" height="168" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rSrXUw4x_Sw/V75WvgF125I/AAAAAAAACwY/IPAOXxOevzYmRripHsPh08J5rotqfWYrwCEw/s200/61EIOY%252BtSYL._SL1500_.jpg" title="" width="200" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: x-large;"><span style="background-color: white;">Not all threads need to be masked off:</span></span></h4>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: x-large;"><span style="background-color: white;"> </span></span></h4>
The only time I plug bolt holes when is when the bolt serves as a ground connection between 2 parts or if it's a structural bolt that gets torqued to a specified value. I do not mask off bolt holes or studs that are not for critical parts. For example, I will mask off all threads and mating surfaces of a brake caliper, engine mount, or suspension piece but it is often unnecessary to mask off threads for light-duty things like interior trim. The reason I do that is to allow a thin layer of powder coating in the bolt holes to help protect the threads from corrosion. Any bare metal point on a powder coated piece, can start to rust and I don't like the idea of the rust creeping from the bare metal areas to underneath the powder coated surface. I have found that most bolts thread in with no problem even with a thin layer of powder in the bolt holes. I have found the same to be true for studs. If I ever have issues threading a bolt in, I just run a <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Lang-972-Fractional-Metric-Restorer/dp/B000P6UNHE/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1460094695&sr=8-3&keywords=thread+chaser&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=6ddc84608c8c6addb7b36eb45e060052"><b>thread chaser</b></a> through the hole, like I mentioned above. This cleans out the holes enough for the bolt to go in, but still leaves the threads protected. Just make sure to mask off any important structural bolts or threaded holes. As a general rule, I mask off any bolts and threads that are engine, suspension, or brake related. <br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-7-DkXNu-gTY/UgDptR0hzSI/AAAAAAAABKM/8cmH_N3nC4E/s1600/IMG_20130520_0027012.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="powder coating threads" border="0" height="320" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-7-DkXNu-gTY/UgDptR0hzSI/AAAAAAAABKM/8cmH_N3nC4E/s320/IMG_20130520_0027012.JPG" title="powder coating threads" width="239" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A nut has no problem tightening onto these powder coated studs, and they are protected from rust.</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Wear Clean Gloves While Masking!</span></h4>
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<span style="font-size: large;"> </span></h4>
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002XXO60M/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=fd1305f8157e0da21627a721d85a5e18" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating nitrile gloves to handle clean parts" border="0" height="200" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TovolsSEnP4/V75Wvk_iu1I/AAAAAAAACwg/pCffxPhPIGknzLhEZ3l2ExJvZ9Vve8_VgCEw/s200/61SBwV4uRQL._SL1200_.jpg" title="" width="150" /></a>Another essential tool for masking is tight fitting <b><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002XXO60M/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B002XXO60M&linkCode=as2&tag=powcoathecomg-20" target="_blank">disposable gloves</a></b>. When you are masking your part before powder coating, that means that it should be clean and sand blasted already. After sand blasting, you do not handle the part with bare hands. From the sand blasting cabinet until the part is completed and coming out of the oven, I do not touch the part with my bare hands. Your hands, even when clean, contain oils and salts that can cause issues with the powder coated finish. This is true for paint too. Also, any point where you touch freshly blasted bare metal with your hands, is a spot for rust to start. You can do a little experiment with this to see what I mean. Take a piece of metal and completely degrease it, then blast it clean with a sand blaster (or use a wire brush if you don't have a sandblaster yet). Now that you have the completely clean bare metal part, take your finger and just press it down in one spot. Then just walk away and come back the next day. Unless you live in a very dry climate, you will come back to your exact fingerprint etched in the metal, in the form of rust.<br />
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This is why it is very important to never touch your cleaned and blasted part with bare hands. It is also important to only use clean gloves. I keep 2 boxes of gloves out in the garage, one box is unused, brand new gloves. After I wear them to handle parts during powder coat preparation, I transfer them to the 2nd box. I wear the gloves from the 2nd box when doing anything else in the garage, like working on the car. There's no reason to throw them away and waste them just because they are no longer fit for powder coating. Like I said, you will want nice, tight fitting gloves. Masking is difficult already, you don't want loose gloves sticking to the tape you are trying to use. I have covered the most basic powder coat masking materials here, there are many more methods and ways to mask, I will explain some more in the next masking post. Just keep this in mind in the meantime. When powder coating, the masking does not need to stay on the part the entire time in the oven. The part doesn't even need to remain masked when the part enters the oven. That leads to being able to use a lot more materials to mask your parts. If you want to learn more about masking and how to get crisp masking lines, go to <b><a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2013/08/powder-coat-masking-part-ii.html" target="_blank">Masking: Part II</a></b>.<br />
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</script> PowderCoatGuidehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12345212251907477269noreply@blogger.com37tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6576346347573188227.post-54716654089710467182013-08-02T00:44:00.002-07:002020-10-11T12:21:21.766-07:00Cleaning and Degreasing before Powder Coating<span style="font-size: large;">Lets talk about the first step of the powder coating process: thoroughly cleaning and degreasing. Even if the piece is brand new, it should be cleaned. Powder coat adheres best to clean bare metal. </span><span style="font-size: large;">Dirt, oils, and other contaminants left on a powder coated part can cause adhesion issues including complete delamination of the coating, and visual issues such as specks, bumps, of fish eyes visible in the coating. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Following the steps in this article will ensure that your parts are thoroughly cleaned and ready for the next step in the powder coating process.</span><br />
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<b><span style="font-size: x-large;">STEP 1: Disassemble </span></b></div>
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The very first step for any part that I powder coat is to disassemble it as much as possible. Remove all fasteners, springs, seals, bearings, electrical components, etc until the part is bare. You cannot thoroughly clean parts that are completely assembled, and you definitely shouldn't powder coat assembled parts. If you are unsure how to disassemble a part, search online using relevant part numbers, model numbers, or descriptions. Chances are there is an article, video, forum that can help you.<br />
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Some parts are held together by rivets or pins with no way to remove them. At that point, it is up to you with how much it is worth it to disassemble the part completely. Rivets can be drilled out and replaced with new rivets. Some permanent pins that hold parts together are specialty items and were likely installed using machines that you won't have access to. The same thing with some parts that are pressed together. Most bearings are removable with standard tools or a cheap press however, some parts are pressed together so tightly that they can be considered permanent. With parts like these, it is not realistic to dissemble completely so you will have to make some compromises. <br />
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<b><span style="font-size: x-large;">STEP 2: Pressure Wash </span></b></div>
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The next step of cleaning a part for powder coating is to pressure wash the part. The pressure washer removes a lot of the loose debris like dirt and grease chunks with ease. Pressuring washing can save time and effort by replacing a lot of initial manual scrubbing. I use this <b><a href="https://www.amazon.com/Joe-SPX4000-14-5-Amp-Pressure-Select-Technology/dp/B01NBVBT3I/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1517950629&sr=8-5&keywords=sunjoe+pressure+washer&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=ca8cf2652559dc7c0d7aff598e584c82">Sunjoe Electric Pressure Washer</a></b> because its output is 1.76 gallons per minute which is the highest I could find in a consumer electric pressure washer. I prefer electric pressure washers for cleaning parts that will be powder coated because many of them are not that big. If you were cleaning a fence or a driveway, a gas-powered pressure washer will save you tons of time over an electric pressure washer, but when it comes to powder coating, generally the parts are much smaller than that, so an electric pressure washer is decent enough and offers more convenience.<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uYMosImFQeQ/Xsq2nIXGDrI/AAAAAAAAHTE/Lvt-wN7G6n4ukRHVu510trzvfdozSbfVgCNcBGAsYHQ/s1600/Pressure%2Bwashing%2Bparts%2Bbefore%2Bpowder%2Bcoating.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Pressure washing cleaning parts before powder coating" border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1405" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uYMosImFQeQ/Xsq2nIXGDrI/AAAAAAAAHTE/Lvt-wN7G6n4ukRHVu510trzvfdozSbfVgCNcBGAsYHQ/s640/Pressure%2Bwashing%2Bparts%2Bbefore%2Bpowder%2Bcoating.jpg" title="Pressure washing cleaning parts before powder coating" width="562" /></a></div>
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With the electric units, I tend to use use the 0° nozzle which is provides the most cleaning action as it focuses all the water into a narrow stream. It only cleans a very small area at a time, but that is the trade-off of using an electric pressure washer. If the part is delicate, such as sheet metal or flat panels, I use the 15° nozzle instead because the 0° nozzle can easily warp the metal. Also keep your hands away from the stream, because the stream will tear up your skin. When cleaning, I run this stream over the entire part until I no longer see the dirt coming off. I wear safety goggles while doing this because it splashes everywhere when hitting something irregularly shaped like a car part.<br />
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-w65-uBfr4P4/WnoXv45bWEI/AAAAAAAADL4/01fH9LFlRpMLhNzhLDC-5nV3HkH7_990QCLcBGAs/s1600/best%2Belectric%2Bpressure%2Bwasher.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="best electric pressure washer" border="0" data-original-height="1500" data-original-width="1500" height="320" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-w65-uBfr4P4/WnoXv45bWEI/AAAAAAAADL4/01fH9LFlRpMLhNzhLDC-5nV3HkH7_990QCLcBGAs/s320/best%2Belectric%2Bpressure%2Bwasher.jpg" title="" width="320" /></a></div>
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I do all my cleaning on a patio outside my garage. I use one or two tiers of <a href="https://www.amazon.com/HDX-5-Tiered-Ventilated-Shelving-Tool-Free/dp/B01ABRG9I8/ref=as_li_ss_tl?dchild=1&keywords=plastic+garage+shelves&qid=1590340167&sr=8-9&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=948ab888857bf9bd8c4a59dd6a0a71fc&language=en_US">plastic shelves</a> to set parts on while scrubbing and pressure washing. The soft plastic prevents scratching up the metal on the concrete, it also raises the parts up so I am not bending over to clean everything. The holes in the plastic provide nice drainage during pressure washing and it also allow you to use some <a href="https://www.amazon.com/HS-Reusable-Plastic-Releasable-Management/dp/B078P7KRM4/ref=as_li_ss_tl?dchild=1&keywords=reusable+zip+ties&qid=1590343065&refinements=p_85:2470955011&rnid=2470954011&rps=1&sr=8-4&th=1&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=179f56f6edc0aa17022276d8887b5f94&language=en_US">reusable zip ties</a> to zip tie smaller parts to the shelves to keep them from being washed away. The reason I like them is that they are modular, you can stack them knee-high or waste-high. You can also lay them all on the ground to do a a set of wheels on, or put two stacks side-by-side for subframes. They are abused and left out in the sun, so I only buy them used or when I see a good deal. <br />
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If you are consistently working with larger items or if you are coating professionally, a gas pressure washer or an industrial electric pressure washer would be better choices as they will clean more thoroughly, and the units are more reliable. They are capable of a much higher pressures and can get your parts cleaner before powder coating. They are also capable of doing more damage so avoid really high pressures on sheet metal type parts because it is not very difficult to warp/ruin them. When choosing a gas-powered pressure washer, I believe the <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Simpson-Cleaning-ALH3228-S-Pressure-Powered/dp/B00UBMSUZE/ref=as_li_ss_tl?dchild=1&keywords=pressure+washer+honda+cat&qid=1590338070&sr=8-5&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=d1778d31a6d559e30b081a6d51ef7c62&language=en_US">units with Honda GX engines and a CAT pump</a> are the most reliable units available. <br />
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<a href="https://www.amazon.com/Simpson-Cleaning-ALH3228-S-Pressure-Powered/dp/B00UBMSUZE/ref=as_li_ss_tl?dchild=1&keywords=pressure+washer+honda+cat&qid=1590338070&sr=8-5&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=d1778d31a6d559e30b081a6d51ef7c62&language=en_US"><img alt="https://www.amazon.com/Simpson-Cleaning-ALH3228-S-Pressure-Powered/dp/B00UBMSUZE/ref=as_li_ss_tl?dchild=1&keywords=pressure+washer+honda+cat&qid=1590338070&sr=8-5&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=d1778d31a6d559e30b081a6d51ef7c62&language=en_US" border="0" data-original-height="1124" data-original-width="1428" height="249" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zn-kc1XDSfE/XsqiU8ld5fI/AAAAAAAAHSM/Va_Q8b2gI1ovniOxc1o7M_0ScXbW3-QLgCNcBGAsYHQ/s320/reliable%2Bpressure%2Bwasher%2Bgas.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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If you are a DIY powder coater, it may seem difficult to justify the purchase of a pressure washer just for powder coating. However, owning a pressure washer is useful for cleaning items all throughout a home. However, it is not absolutely required, you can get parts very clean in a sink or outside with a hose using cleaners and scrub brushes. You could even stick your parts in a dishwasher (preferably a spare dishwasher) for some automated cleaning. Pressure washers are very helpful to speed up the cleaning process and they really shine on intricate parts that have a lot of tight corners and crevices.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-0lYcxv3qd3w/VYuna0qa6dI/AAAAAAAAB8I/MEbyuHlAMw8/s1600/Picture179.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="cleaning parts powder coating" border="0" height="300" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-0lYcxv3qd3w/VYuna0qa6dI/AAAAAAAAB8I/MEbyuHlAMw8/s400/Picture179.jpg" title="cleaning parts powder coating" width="400" /></a></div>
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<b><span style="font-size: x-large;">STEP 3: Soak with Cleaner</span></b></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Aluminum-Safe Cleaners</b></span><br />
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001VXU7OE/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=ebadb4031724f91407e268c903716da5" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="Cast aluminum cleaner" border="0" height="200" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Lpg1YshuY1E/V75bC3goAMI/AAAAAAAACxE/rN1PxeEFv2Qt1OBr8dkuBd232l04pKYIACEw/s200/71KmxPT6NAL._SL1500_.jpg" title="" width="100" /></a>After the loose dirt and crud is off, I spray the part down with an aluminum safe cleaner. I am very selective about what I use to clean aluminum. A lot of normal household cleaners can corrode aluminum. After a lot of research on a safe cleaner for aluminum, I decided on <b><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001VXU7OE/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=8250972461b0356dc393081f2cb0b6f7" target="_blank">Simple Green Extreme: Aircraft and Precision Cleaner</a></b>. It states all over the bottle that it was formulated specifically for aluminum and precision tools. I checked the <a href="https://cdn.simplegreen.com/downloads/SDS_EN-US_SimpleGreenExtremeAircraftPrecisionCleaner.pdf">MSDS</a> and it is, in fact, not just relabeled simple green. After testing it out, I am very happy with it. Its not too expensive, but online is the only place I could find it. It cleans great. I also tested it by spraying on some scrap cast aluminum pieces I had, and just letting it sit for a couple of days. When I came back to the part and wiped off the cleaner, there was no signs of corrosion at all.<br />
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I used Simple Green Extreme on this aluminum cylinder head. Unfortunately, I didn't get a good before picture, but in the picture you can see the area I cleaned compared to area that has not been cleaned yet. <br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-vQAEUZS8W1k/Ufs9fZDL5SI/AAAAAAAABFc/5WaWFHj7K2M/s1600/simplegreen%2Bextreme.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="How to clean cast aluminum" border="0" height="281" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-vQAEUZS8W1k/Ufs9fZDL5SI/AAAAAAAABFc/5WaWFHj7K2M/s640/simplegreen%2Bextreme.JPG" title="How to clean cast aluminum" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cleaning cast aluminum with Simple Green Extreme</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-AI8QEBM5qLg/Ufs9fdTdZOI/AAAAAAAABFg/Bcp3MyILZqQ/s1600/simple%2Bgreen%2Bextreme%2Bafter.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="How to clean cast aluminum" border="0" height="324" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-AI8QEBM5qLg/Ufs9fdTdZOI/AAAAAAAABFg/Bcp3MyILZqQ/s640/simple%2Bgreen%2Bextreme%2Bafter.JPG" title="How to clean cast aluminum" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Head cleaned with Simple Green Extreme</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>How to Clean Steel and Iron</b></span><br />
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<a href="https://www.amazon.com/Super-Clean-Multi-Surface-Degreaser-Dilution/dp/B07M8DLBGX/ref=as_li_ss_tl?keywords=super+clean&qid=1552848766&refinements=p_85:2470955011&rnid=2470954011&rps=1&s=gateway&sr=8-4&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=0262a542cfa4630593b51b60a5c9d91c&language=en_US" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="car parts cleaner Superclean" border="0" height="200" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-r5JRxKhXUyw/V75bCgm6ZAI/AAAAAAAACxA/tbtFPYqO4XojgmZCMMUcJY0S_CFAQjPFwCEw/s200/71HijsUDnfL._SL1500_.jpg" title="" width="175" /></a></div>
Cleaning ferrous metals such as iron or steel is a little more forgiving than cleaning aluminum. You can use the Simple Green Extreme mentioned above with no issues. However, since steel can be cleaned with more readily-available and cheaper cleaners, I save the Simple Green Extreme for aluminum.<br />
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For cleaning steel, I use <b><a href="https://www.amazon.com/Superclean-101723-1gal-Super-Degreaser/dp/B01J05YTU2/ref=as_li_ss_tl?dchild=1&keywords=super+clean&qid=1590332767&sr=8-3&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=f78566c56db96b34fe5997a729288796&language=en_US" target="_blank">Super Clean</a></b>, formerly called Castrol Super Clean, which is one of the best all-purpose-cleaners I have ever used. For iron and steel parts, I use it full-strength. I spray it on, let it soak for a couple of minutes, scrub the parts with a brush, and then pressure wash the part clean. Super Clean is corrosive to metals so it must be rinsed completely. Purple Power is another good alternative, but I always find myself using Super Clean over Purple Power.<br />
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When cleaning high-strength steel, titanium, or aluminum alloys with chemicals, it is possible to weaken the metal when using acidic chemicals. Most acidic household cleaners use weaker acids so the chances are reduced. However, chemical rust removers and similar products contain phosphoric acid or muriatic acid which can can cause something called <i>hydrogen embrittlement</i>. The non-scientific explanation is that hydrogen atoms from these acids can be absorbed into the metal, affecting the internal structure which can cause the metal to weaken or fail. I always try to avoid using acid-based cleaners on metal parts, in order to avoid hydrogen embrittlement. <br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<b><span style="font-size: x-large;">STEP 4: Scrub</span></b></div>
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After spraying down the aluminum part with Simple Green Extreme, or the iron/steel part with Super Clean, I let it soak for about 5 minutes, I spray a little more cleaner on the part and scrub it down with a <b><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009OMYDS/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=12c0b9e7d0cdf549bd66d34fb8d91803" target="_blank">parts cleaning brush</a></b>. <b><a href="https://www.amazon.com/Cleaning-Brushes-Drinking-Keyboards-Antistatic/dp/B01CY0YPYU/ref=as_li_ss_tl?dchild=1&keywords=tube+cleaning+brushes&qid=1590334371&refinements=p_85:2470955011&rnid=2470954011&rps=1&sr=8-5&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=ffbfd38d43077093df9a04d78c663949&language=en_US" target="_blank">Tube Brushes</a></b> are great for scrubbing threaded holes and passages. <br />
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<a href="https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-14000-Parts-Cleaning-Brush/dp/B0009OMYDS/ref=as_li_ss_tl?dchild=1&keywords=parts+cleaner+brushes&qid=1590334613&refinements=p_85:2470955011&rnid=2470954011&rps=1&sr=8-2&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=6444c608fb9b79c9093f9066868331c9&language=en_US"><img alt="parts cleaning brush" border="0" data-original-height="233" data-original-width="485" height="153" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6-bvzhM27yE/XsqVZrnHa-I/AAAAAAAAHR4/lr6XMobYuuUYZS9LaFU8BX0JpeQqwhrsACNcBGAsYHQ/s320/parts%2Bcleaning%2Bbrush%2Bdegreasing.jpg" title="" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://www.amazon.com/Cleaning-Brushes-Drinking-Keyboards-Antistatic/dp/B01CY0YPYU/ref=as_li_ss_tl?dchild=1&keywords=tube+cleaning+brushes&qid=1590334371&refinements=p_85:2470955011&rnid=2470954011&rps=1&sr=8-5&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=ffbfd38d43077093df9a04d78c663949&language=en_US"><img alt="threaded bolt hole cleaning tube brush" border="0" data-original-height="1364" data-original-width="1395" height="312" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9V_EL6Wgg2Q/XsqVZgm8qYI/AAAAAAAAHR8/M_PKyjYoWfwoIRCl8BhWlte7yMp_IQ10gCNcBGAsYHQ/s320/threaded%2Bhole%2Bbolt%2Bhole%2Bbrushes%2Btube.jpg" title="" width="320" /></a></div>
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A parts washer is a great place to do this task. Its the most convenient place to clean parts, it contains the mess, and constantly sprays recirculated cleaner out of the nozzle. They come <b><a href="https://www.amazon.com/Goplus%C2%AE-Gallon-Electric-Solvent-Cleaner/dp/B01CKUNYJQ/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1472092812&sr=8-6&keywords=parts+washer&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=e747fb9c9eddfeb012fd2188a65ca42f" target="_blank">complete with a stand</a></b> or you can get a <b><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0026T75BA/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=30839d5c2c5280e5b6dd0e24c15d5cb7" target="_blank">bench-top model</a></b> to save some space.<br />
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<a href="https://www.amazon.com/Goplus%C2%AE-Gallon-Electric-Solvent-Cleaner/dp/B01CKUNYJQ/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1472092812&sr=8-6&keywords=parts+washer&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=cbe9098fd6f25939048e9cb82fadd2f3" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="cleaning parts with parts wahser before powder coating" border="0" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Z_Lvc2TVnKg/V75bCrEYLlI/AAAAAAAACxQ/qZaqjVVKkBsqQgqPsRFI34PfZrJl0L8JwCEw/s320/61OLancbbGL._SL1200_.jpg" title="" width="320" /></a></div>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<b><span style="font-size: x-large;">STEP 5: Rinse & Repeat</span></b></div>
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The next step is to rinse the part off. I use the the pressure washer to with a 15° nozzle for this. Depending on how clean the part is, I may then repeat the scrubbing process and give it a very thorough final rinse with the pressure washer. I then bring the part in the garage and blow it dry with compressed air. <br />
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<i><br />
</i> <i><br />
</i> <i><b><span style="font-size: large;">Time Saver: Ultrasonic Cleaner </span></b></i><br />
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Another method I use for smaller parts, is an<a href="https://www.amazon.com/Industrial-Liters-Digital-Ultrasonic-Cleaner/dp/B01NCJ0N6O/ref=as_li_ss_tl?dchild=1&keywords=ultrasonic+cleaner&qid=1590346296&refinements=p_85:2470955011&rnid=2470954011&rps=1&sr=8-13&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=14722b06005fca465e96c81c9aa9b7b4&language=en_US" target="_blank"> <b>ultrasonic cleaner</b></a>. I say smaller parts because the larger ultrasonic cleaners can be <a href="https://www.amazon.com/VEVOR-Commercial-Ultrasonic-Cleaning-Eyeglasses/dp/B07DJ23WKV/ref=as_li_ss_tl?dchild=1&keywords=ultrasonic+cleaner+large&qid=1590345016&sr=8-9&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=60a7deee9eef262778d467df9997dee7&language=en_US">pretty expensive</a>. They are coming down in price so I am looking into a bigger one. If the part fits in my ultrasonic cleaner, I will use it. Its a great way to reduce some labor. I use the same cleaning solutions inside the ultrasonic cleaner that I mentioned above. Although a very good ultrasonic cleaning solution recipe is 50% vinegar, 50% water, and couple drops of dawn dish soap and some baking soda. This solution will clean steel perfectly down to bare metal. It removes rust, zinc plating, and everything else. However, I still do sandblast all parts before powder coating, regardless of how clean the metal is.<br />
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This my <b><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009B2BIKY/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=d029b66b54c2687d3a631154200dcf2a" target="_blank">ultrasonic cleaner</a></b> below. It also has a heating function which aids in the cleaning significantly. It works very well for small parts and fasteners. I have cleaned heater cores, throttle bodies, and brake master cylinders, and brake calipers in it also. The great thing about an ultrasonic cleaner is that it can clean where no brush can reach. Sometimes a part looks clean, and then you put it in the ultrasonic cleaner and the water will still turn black. You can see the results below.<br />
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<a href="https://www.amazon.com/Industrial-Liters-Digital-Ultrasonic-Cleaner/dp/B01NCJ0N6O/ref=as_li_ss_tl?dchild=1&keywords=ultrasonic+cleaner&qid=1590346296&refinements=p_85:2470955011&rnid=2470954011&rps=1&sr=8-13&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=14722b06005fca465e96c81c9aa9b7b4&language=en_US" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="ultrasonic cleaner for car parts" border="0" height="270" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-U19raLHxwag/V75bC7XoK1I/AAAAAAAACxQ/X7Zr5hqRY_8tQZR1j2gqsikXMGMxJZXLgCEw/s400/81l0TN5-x6L._SL1500_.jpg" title="" width="400" /></a></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LYwe-mYOPdA/UftiG8snXWI/AAAAAAAABGI/LwMdjW2ka7o/s1600/IMAG0562.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="cleaning car parts in ultrasonic cleaner" border="0" height="356" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LYwe-mYOPdA/UftiG8snXWI/AAAAAAAABGI/LwMdjW2ka7o/s640/IMAG0562.jpg" title="cleaning car parts in ultrasonic cleaner" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ultrasonic cleaner in progress.</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IMIsZieGvNo/UftiHcGkroI/AAAAAAAABGM/rSwF3qz4rEg/s1600/IMAG0568.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="cleaning car parts in ultrasonic cleaner" border="0" height="358" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IMIsZieGvNo/UftiHcGkroI/AAAAAAAABGM/rSwF3qz4rEg/s640/IMAG0568.jpg" title="cleaned car parts in ultrasonic cleaner" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fresh out of the Ultrasonic Cleaner.</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<b><span style="font-size: x-large;">STEP 6: Stripping (If necessary)</span></b></div>
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If the part has previously been painted or powder coated, this is the point where it should be stripped. Chemical strippers will remove all the previous coatings and also can also remove stuck on contaminants that were not removed yet in the cleaning process. For more details on stripping previous coatings, visit <b><a href="https://www.powdercoatguide.com/2013/07/stripping-powder-coat.html#.XsrA9sApB9N">Stripping Powder Coat</a></b>.<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-witnHE4-kaY/XsrLaK_nOvI/AAAAAAAAHTc/8AS0CRYdKBsYkAFG9TSYKHnIC8CdTfD7wCNcBGAsYHQ/s1600/stripping%2Bpowder%2Bcoat.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="stripping powder coat" border="0" data-original-height="400" data-original-width="500" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-witnHE4-kaY/XsrLaK_nOvI/AAAAAAAAHTc/8AS0CRYdKBsYkAFG9TSYKHnIC8CdTfD7wCNcBGAsYHQ/s400/stripping%2Bpowder%2Bcoat.jpg" title="stripping powder coat" width="400" /></a></div>
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<b><span style="font-size: x-large;">STEP 7: Bake / Outgas Part in the Oven</span></b></div>
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After the cleaning process, I then bake the part in the oven. This not only dries the metal completely from any moisture that may have been remaining, but it also outgasses the part. Cast aluminum and cast iron are porous. Grease, oils, and other impurities can soak into the metal over time. These impurities can also be in the part from the casting process itself. Outgassing the aluminum or iron consists of baking it at a slightly higher temperature and a little bit longer time than your cure schedule.<br />
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For example, say a powders cure schedule is 400°F for 10 minutes. I will outgas the aluminum at 425°F for 20 minutes. I do not start the 20 minute timer until the actual aluminum part is 425°F though. I check the temperature with a <b><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008EW837S/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=234a9fb00a095f0a9de900ee1fd719c8" target="_blank">non-contact infrared thermometer</a></b>. If you don't know why you should own an infrared thermometer while powder coating, <b><a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2012/12/ir-thermometer.html#.VYugYFI72KU" target="_blank">read this article</a></b> as they are essential for powder coating. For cast metal parts, you can actually see the part smoking in the oven, this smoke is the oils and contaminants being baked out of the metal. If at 20 minutes, the part is still smoking, I will leave it in until the smoking is done and then an extra 5 minutes for good measure. I outgas every part I powder coat just to be thorough, but it is usually okay to only outgas cast parts or parts that have been in salty environments. I don't notice the extra oven use on my electric bill, but a powder coating shop that has large ovens would notice it.<br />
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The reason why you outgas a part before powder coating is to prevent it from happening during the curing stage. If those oils are left inside the metal and you powder coat it and put it in the oven to cure, as the heat cures the powder, it also heats up the oils, causing them to expand. This expanding causes them to escape out of the part, leaving a pinholes in your powder coating finish, as seen below.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Cr-YAy5J4dY/UftG6lrtWJI/AAAAAAAABFw/IyzQ8_A8IkI/s1600/IMAG0819.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Powder coating aluminum outgassing" border="0" height="356" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Cr-YAy5J4dY/UftG6lrtWJI/AAAAAAAABFw/IyzQ8_A8IkI/s640/IMAG0819.jpg" title="Powder coating aluminum outgassing" width="640" /></a></div>
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Outgassing parts in the oven does solve about 90% of the outgassing problems when powder coating. However there are some parts out there that want to outgas no matter how long you bake it before hand. For parts like these, <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Outgas-Forgiving-Primer-Powder-Coating/dp/B01D89J9VU/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=e465780f54c9b63d65d6c6c7992a8c07&language=en_US">outgas forgiving primer powder coats</a> need to be applied before any further powder coating.<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<b><span style="font-size: x-large;">Conclusion </span></b></div>
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Following all of the steps in this article, the aluminum calipers shown below went through the following steps in order to be prepared for sandblasting and powder coating:<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FcmuN9g2Nmo/XsrRx5xpF0I/AAAAAAAAHTw/-4ZP6L46pwsi3VzU3tAQV_mlklay_GYVQCNcBGAsYHQ/s1600/1%2B%252868%2529.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating brake calipers cleaning stripping" border="0" data-original-height="540" data-original-width="1600" height="216" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FcmuN9g2Nmo/XsrRx5xpF0I/AAAAAAAAHTw/-4ZP6L46pwsi3VzU3tAQV_mlklay_GYVQCNcBGAsYHQ/s640/1%2B%252868%2529.JPG" title="powder coating brake calipers cleaning stripping" width="640" /></a></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-oJHk1J_Tsuk/XsrRxzE64xI/AAAAAAAAHT0/n_y0N_KsouIBoRopGxdXrSaif1cKOMZWQCNcBGAsYHQ/s1600/1%2B%252869%2529.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="powder coating brake calipers cleaning stripping" border="0" data-original-height="677" data-original-width="1600" height="270" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-oJHk1J_Tsuk/XsrRxzE64xI/AAAAAAAAHT0/n_y0N_KsouIBoRopGxdXrSaif1cKOMZWQCNcBGAsYHQ/s640/1%2B%252869%2529.JPG" title="powder coating brake calipers cleaning stripping" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Calipers before any cleaning or disassembly</td></tr>
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<ul>
<li><span style="font-size: large;">Disassembled</span></li>
<span style="font-size: large;"> </span>
<li><span style="font-size: large;">Pre-washed with a pressure washer</span></li>
<span style="font-size: large;"> </span>
<li><span style="font-size: large;">Soaked in Simple Green Extreme</span></li>
<span style="font-size: large;"> </span>
<li><span style="font-size: large;">Scrubbed inside and out with various brushes</span></li>
<span style="font-size: large;"> </span>
<li><span style="font-size: large;">Rinsed with a pressure washer</span></li>
<span style="font-size: large;"> </span>
<li><span style="font-size: large;">Submerged in an ultrasonic cleaner with Simple Green Extreme for several cycles</span></li>
<span style="font-size: large;"> </span>
<li><span style="font-size: large;">Submerged in an ultrasonic cleaner with clean water</span></li>
<span style="font-size: large;"> </span>
<li><span style="font-size: large;">Blown dry with compressed air</span></li>
<span style="font-size: large;"> </span>
<li><span style="font-size: large;">Submerged in PowderStrip PS-1L for 15 minutes</span></li>
<span style="font-size: large;"> </span>
<li><span style="font-size: large;">Submerged in clean water mixed with TSP</span></li>
<span style="font-size: large;"> </span>
<li><span style="font-size: large;">Rinsed with pressure washer </span></li>
<span style="font-size: large;"> </span>
<li><span style="font-size: large;">Blown dry with compressed air </span></li>
<span style="font-size: large;"> </span>
<li><span style="font-size: large;">Outgassed in an oven at 400°F for 40 minutes </span></li>
</ul>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/--NqWS5ZvQAs/XsrRxhJtxZI/AAAAAAAAHTs/Sbuf30eMHDM1o_nBdMSlrWwsTLypGt4OgCPcBGAYYCw/s1600/1%2B%252872%2529.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="powder coating brake calipers cleaning stripping" border="0" data-original-height="717" data-original-width="1600" height="286" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/--NqWS5ZvQAs/XsrRxhJtxZI/AAAAAAAAHTs/Sbuf30eMHDM1o_nBdMSlrWwsTLypGt4OgCPcBGAYYCw/s640/1%2B%252872%2529.JPG" title="powder coating brake calipers cleaning stripping" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Calipers after cleaning, before stripping</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vptVrH4xndk/XsrRyDXnFhI/AAAAAAAAHT4/DRcXbX8ffXIjc307qn2FIWYmtSkczObtQCPcBGAYYCw/s1600/DSC_0008.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="powder coating brake calipers cleaning stripping" border="0" data-original-height="1292" data-original-width="1600" height="516" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vptVrH4xndk/XsrRyDXnFhI/AAAAAAAAHT4/DRcXbX8ffXIjc307qn2FIWYmtSkczObtQCPcBGAYYCw/s640/DSC_0008.JPG" title="powder coating brake calipers cleaning stripping" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Completely clean bare-metal calipers ready to be sandblasted and powder coated</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><br />
</span><span style="font-size: large;">After the part is clean, degreased, and outgassed, it is ready for <a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2013/01/8-media-blaster.html#.VYwc71I72KU" target="_blank"><b>media blasting</b></a> (sand blasting). Leave a comment if you have any questions about this topic. For a thorough explanation of the remaining steps, head over to "<a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2014/12/prepping-for-powder-coating-step-by-step.html#.VYuhslI72KV" target="_blank"><b>How to Prep for Powder Coating</b></a>".</span><br />
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There are some parts that I will still use this method on. Valve covers and oil pans with internal baffles like to trap blast media. Unless you remove the baffles to thoroughly clean out all of the media afterwards, media will get trapped in the part. Later when these parts are installed in the engine, the media can get washed out by the oil and circulated around the engine. Blast media will quickly score bearings and journals inside the engine which can result in an engine rebuild. Not worth the risk to me to media blast these types of parts.<div><span><a name='more'></a></span> <br />
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First, let me say that when I started powder coating, I had no air compressor and no sandblaster. I bought the <a href="http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?ff3=4&pub=5575060108&toolid=10001&campid=5337386189&customid=&mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fitm%2FCraftsman-Electric-Powder-Coat-Spray-Gun-Metal-Tin-Finisher-17288-car-boat-paint%2F332433968403%3Fepid%3D10021720378%26hash%3Ditem4d669bcd13%3Ag%3A-fcAAOSws65Tof%7Ep" target="_blank"><b>Craftsman Powder Coating Gun</b></a> that did not require an air compressor. I was scared of the cost of a large air compressor and it required an electrical outlet that I was unfamiliar with. I used the methods that I am about to describe below and in the end, I bought everything I would need to sandblast. I eventually did buy an air compressor and learned a lot about them. If you would like to understand more about air compressors and what type you will need to sandblast, head over to "<a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2013/10/choosing-air-compressor.html" target="_blank"><b>How to Choose an Air Compressor</b></a>".<br />
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Assuming the part you are planning to powder coat is not brand new, it probably has old paint, rust, or corrosion on it. To prepare a part for powder coating without a sandblaster, the following are different methods that I used.<br />
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">Wire Wheel </span></b><br />
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The first step I used was a bench grinder with a <b><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004YMDK/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00004YMDK&linkCode=as2&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=72JJNE5N7Q73JUOV" target="_blank">wire wheel</a></b></div>
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Note: if your part is stainless steel, only use <b><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004FTPQE2/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B004FTPQE2&linkCode=as2&tag=powcoathecomg-20" target="_blank">stainless steel wire wheels</a></b>.<br />
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This is a <b><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000224J4/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B0000224J4&linkCode=as2&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=A2Z2EY44SEBP4ENX" target="_blank">Dewalt 8 inch bench grinder</a></b>: (It also also works great for polishing aluminum) <br />
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<a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000224J4/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=5d9cb7ac37b7cbcb322fec23c16e5366" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="removing rust before powder coating" border="0" height="238" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-6J1OfxpcZKs/V75fHPSfJ6I/AAAAAAAACxg/s17s3470mx06ofAww8Y8isVfsnrrHfrsQCEw/s320/812NFM6D5lL._SL1500_.jpg" title="" width="320" /></a></div>
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This is a wire wheel:<br /><br />
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<a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004YMDK/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=865d221dba1296454523a148225ca023" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="wire wheel rust removal" border="0" height="200" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-aYtSXoFRBjM/V75fHGyuQRI/AAAAAAAACxY/VEs9dtWdG_kTgqUGpXzYStBAed4KoKcawCEw/s200/61GmIRcoOiL.jpg" title="" width="200" /></a></div> Wire wheels are great for removing paint and rust. They get old dirty metal down to clean bare metal. They take much longer than a sandblaster, and I was okay with that at first but it becomes tedious. Also the 8" wire wheel will not reach into the crevices of your part. <br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br />
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-6jlozOhwkpY/WoAC2vd-C4I/AAAAAAAADOc/gbjYISBi7KQc0bA8fuUaYfDsFcIfYhl9QCLcBGAs/s1600/cleaning%2Bmetal%2Bwith%2Bdrill%2Bwire%2Bwheel.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="480" data-original-width="852" height="360" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-6jlozOhwkpY/WoAC2vd-C4I/AAAAAAAADOc/gbjYISBi7KQc0bA8fuUaYfDsFcIfYhl9QCLcBGAs/w640-h360/cleaning%2Bmetal%2Bwith%2Bdrill%2Bwire%2Bwheel.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<div style="text-align: left;"> </div><div style="text-align: left;">After finishing all the larger open areas with the bench grinder, I then switched to <b><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004QEYSG8/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B004QEYSG8&linkCode=as2&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=LBYMMXVBD67VZPPI" target="_blank">smaller wire wheels</a> </b>mounted in a <b><a href="https://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-2897-22-Fuel-2-tool-Combo/dp/B01DNDQ34C/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1518338546&sr=8-16&keywords=milwaukee+fuel+drill&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=cc79c1a9a457a0df36112125dcb2c507" target="_blank">drill</a></b>. They work great at getting into almost all of the small crevices.</div>
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<a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004QEYSG8/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=ab4a043988166894269b8f58f7d0a071"><img alt="wire wheel rust removal" border="0" height="400" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-FTpCFXRF7V0/V75fHCq8V9I/AAAAAAAACxk/DegDM06DvF8JgDl03fBaz5fFyfvhQbVIACEw/w400-h400/41CrwxaQUiL.jpg" title="" width="400" /></a></div>
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This is around the time when I setup my make-shift peg board to keep myself organized. Now that I use a sandblast cabinet, the board has been decommissioned.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4ogv6rfR25M/UfnWBYOt-KI/AAAAAAAABEk/VznxueW7pv0/s1600/IMAG0522.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="cheap garage organization" border="0" height="359" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4ogv6rfR25M/UfnWBYOt-KI/AAAAAAAABEk/VznxueW7pv0/s640/IMAG0522.jpg" title="cheap garage organization" width="640" /></a></div>
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After I got into all of the areas I possibly could with the various sized wire wheels, I used a <b><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002L3RUVG/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B002L3RUVG&linkCode=as2&tag=powcoathecomg-20" target="_blank">Dremel</a></b><img alt="" border="0" height="1" src="https://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=powcoathecomg-20&l=as2&o=1&a=B002L3RUVG" style="border: medium none; margin: 0px;" width="1" /> with a<b> <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000302Y8/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B0000302Y8&linkCode=as2&tag=powcoathecomg-20" target="_blank">flex shaft</a><img alt="" border="0" height="1" src="https://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=powcoathecomg-20&l=as2&o=1&a=B0000302Y8" style="border: medium none; margin: 0px;" width="1" /></b> and a very tiny wire wheel<img alt="" border="0" height="1" src="https://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=powcoathecomg-20&l=as2&o=1&a=B000HWRU9U" style="border: medium none; margin: 0px;" width="1" /> . The small wire wheels wear down very fast so I learned to stop buying the Dremel name brand ones that were $6.00 each and found<b> <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Brushes-Rocaris-Wheels-Accessories-Dremel/dp/B07PKS819T/ref=as_li_ss_tl?dchild=1&keywords=1/8+wire+wheel&qid=1602444678&sr=8-3&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=4b7e45299310d29aee9066de6768123e&language=en_US" target="_blank">this assorted pack</a></b> which comes with every size you need to get to any crevice and they are much cheaper. Just keep in mind that they fling sharp bristles as you work. Protect your eyes and skin.<br />
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<a href="https://www.amazon.com/Brushes-Rocaris-Wheels-Accessories-Dremel/dp/B07PKS819T/ref=as_li_ss_tl?dchild=1&keywords=1/8+wire+wheel&qid=1602444678&sr=8-3&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=4b7e45299310d29aee9066de6768123e&language=en_US"><img alt="rust removal dremel wire wheel kit" border="0" height="400" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-6rsKSfROd7E/V75hQ7nAlyI/AAAAAAAACxs/GHv8XJyXFm4wClWoI5VDLRjuwqQ1vyicACLcB/w400-h400/81DBBySw%252BXL._SL1024_.jpg" title="" width="400" /></a></div>
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Another simple way to keep organized was this make-shift Dremel attachment holder. I hated the Dremel case so I just drilled 1/8 inch holes into a block of wood, and now my Dremel attachments are always handy. The container is held onto the wood with double sided tape. Little things like this keep me sane in the garage.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-bIQAHC62QcY/UfnWBu_MOAI/AAAAAAAABEw/ocwQbdBTMNQ/s1600/IMAG0569.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="dremel bit organization" border="0" height="358" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-bIQAHC62QcY/UfnWBu_MOAI/AAAAAAAABEw/ocwQbdBTMNQ/s640/IMAG0569.jpg" title="dremel bit organization" width="640" /></a></div>
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So now that you have spent a couple hours wire wheeling your way to clean bare metal, you should have a part that went from this:<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-mZijGhdgxOU/UfnZt4PQDCI/AAAAAAAABFE/BKNzq0ljc9w/s1600/Picture+3003376.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating parts before cleaning" border="0" height="480" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-mZijGhdgxOU/UfnZt4PQDCI/AAAAAAAABFE/BKNzq0ljc9w/s640/Picture+3003376.jpg" title="powder coating parts before cleaning" width="640" /></a></div>
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To this: <br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sIl8mkM06Io/UfnZtWcFBnI/AAAAAAAABE8/YONJcUDntGk/s1600/Picture+3003396.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating parts wire wheeling rust" border="0" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sIl8mkM06Io/UfnZtWcFBnI/AAAAAAAABE8/YONJcUDntGk/s640/Picture+3003396.jpg" title="powder coating parts wire wheeling rust" width="640" /></a></div>
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Looks good, but do not stop there. Wire-wheels and wire brushes leave very smooth polished scratches in metal. This results in a shiny appearance and a shine is the result of a smooth surface. This leaves little for the powder coating to grab onto and the results are coatings that chip off very easily.<br />
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The next step is bound to be your favorite: Sanding.<br />
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While sanding, your aim is to remove the shine. I always used two consecutive steps, first <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000B8WCA2/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B000B8WCA2&linkCode=as2&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=WTWD7WF4WXGUJRKX" target="_blank"><b>3M 220 Grit</b></a> and then finish it off with <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002MSY86/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B0002MSY86&linkCode=as2&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=IDF4CUAMXH4B3HIH" target="_blank"><b>3M 400 Grit sandpaper</b></a>. Remember, the goal is to add texture, not to remove a bunch of metal and change the dimensions of the part. <br />
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After sanding, you can then re-clean your part and go on to powder coat it. However, keep in mind that when you rinse any cleaner off of the bare metal part, the part will want to rust very quickly. It is best to do the final rinse in cold water and dry it as fast and as thoroughly as possible. I recommend wearing disposable gloves while drying and handling the part after it is clean. Touching the part can cause little rusty fingerprints to show up due to the salts on your skin. After the part is dried, do a quick bake in the oven to remove any remaining moisture.<br />
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I still found the powder coating was less durable than desired so I broke down and bought a <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Skat-Blast-Sandblast-Sandblasting-Cabinet/dp/B077J85C7Q/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1518338663&sr=8-8&keywords=tp+tools&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=563aabb70131f1b841602c36207d46eb" target="_blank"><b>sandblasting cabinet</b></a> and an air compressor. Not only is it way faster, the powder coat was much more chip resistant. I <b>s</b>till wanted to cover these methods for those that are not ready to invest in blasting equipment yet. If you are planning on powder coating parts for paying customers, absolutely do not use this method, sandblasting is the only way to go, read this <a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2013/01/8-media-blaster.html" target="_blank"><b>Media Blasting article</b></a> to realize the full benefits.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-rWFyj60IB34/VYwz0LewtmI/AAAAAAAAB8s/kqNcu933UaQ/s1600/stripping%2Bpowder%2Bcoat.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="stripping removing powder coat" border="0" height="256" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-rWFyj60IB34/VYwz0LewtmI/AAAAAAAAB8s/kqNcu933UaQ/s320/stripping%2Bpowder%2Bcoat.jpg" title="stripping removing powder coat" width="320" /></a><span style="font-size: large;"><b>Lets talk about how to remove powder coat. Why would you want to strip powder coat from a part? As you start powder coating, you are going to make some errors. It doesn't always come out like you expected. If that happens, it is nice to be able to remove the powder coating so you can try again. There are several ways to remove powder coat. You can remove powder coating with a chemical stripper, media blasting, or a burn-off oven.</b></span><br />
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<b><span style="font-size: x-large;">Chemical Powder Coating Stripper</span></b><br />
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<b><span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="font-size: large;">Benco B17 </span></span></b><br />
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Lf83IGDJLUs/WMR2NJFcSKI/AAAAAAAADA8/pdR0n6doZSEbu2zq8FPwhJXt_aFsmeRywCLcB/s1600/benco%2Bb17%2Bpowder%2Bcoat%2Bstripper.png" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Lf83IGDJLUs/WMR2NJFcSKI/AAAAAAAADA8/pdR0n6doZSEbu2zq8FPwhJXt_aFsmeRywCLcB/s1600/benco%2Bb17%2Bpowder%2Bcoat%2Bstripper.png" /></a></div>
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By far the easiest way to strip powder coat is chemically, and <b><a href="https://www.bencosales.com/product/metal-strippers/liquid-strippers/b17/" target="_blank">Benco B17</a></b> is by far the best powder coat stripper. B17 will remove most powder coatings in less than 20 minutes. It is also great at removing paint and just about any other coating. It has a high concentration of methylene chloride which is what removes powder coat. To use the stripper, you simply dip the part in and wait. Check on it every 5 to 10 minutes and pull it out when you see the powder coating is falling off. From there you can rinse the part in water mixed with <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Savogran-10622-Trisodium-Phosphate-4-5lbs/dp/B000AXE7CY/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=tsp&qid=1579137093&refinements=p_85%3A2470955011&rnid=2470954011&rps=1&sr=8-6" target="_blank"><b>TSP (tri-sodium phosphate)</b></a>. TSP will neutralize all of the B17 chemical, but you also need another TSP dipping tank if you go that route. The water/TSP will rinse off and neutralize most of the B17 stripper, but to ensure that you have removed all of the stripper, a quick bake in the oven will evaporate any traces left over. Once the part is completely dried, it won't be pretty. The part will develop surface rust after the stripping process but this is easily removed by media blasting (to learn more about media blasting, check out the <a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2013/01/8-media-blaster.html#.V-0QyyS1iW8">Media Blasting article</a>). </div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1moZ0vcSxZ4/WMRvi6AnPsI/AAAAAAAADAo/B5U0ngTXUz4KZK5vISELjZDsua0uQjPjwCLcB/s1600/1%2B%252859%2529.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="benco b17 stripper on metal" border="0" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1moZ0vcSxZ4/WMRvi6AnPsI/AAAAAAAADAo/B5U0ngTXUz4KZK5vISELjZDsua0uQjPjwCLcB/s400/1%2B%252859%2529.JPG" title="benco b17 stripper on metal" width="225" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">After Stripping with Benco B17</td></tr>
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For longer or awkward parts that won't fit in a powder coat stripping container, a rag soaked in B17 can be used to wrap around sections of the part. Keep the rag stored in an airtight container when not in use and you can reuse it. All safety gear mentioned below must be used while handling the B17.</div>
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Benco B17 can be ordered from directly from Benco in 5 gallon, 30 gallon, and 55 gallon quantities. </div>
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<b>The downsides to using Benco B17:</b></div>
<ul>
<li style="text-align: left;">Its dangerous</li>
<li style="text-align: left;">Its expensive</li>
<li style="text-align: left;">It smells terrible</li>
<li style="text-align: left;">It will burn your skin on contact</li>
<li style="text-align: left;">It slows down in cold weather (you must heat up part before submerging in colder areas).</li>
<li style="text-align: left;">Its just an all around nasty chemical</li>
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<b>However, remember the upsides:</b></div>
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<li style="text-align: left;">It works faster and lasts longer than just about any powder coat stripper on the market. </li>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b><span style="font-size: x-large;"> </span></b></span></h4>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b><span style="font-size: x-large;">Safely Storing Powder Coat Stripper</span></b></span></h4>
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<img alt="" border="0" height="1" hidden="" src="//ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=powcoathecomg-20&l=li2&o=1&a=B002FCP4WU" style="border: medium none; display: none; margin: 0px;" width="1" /><br />
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-wEDEnMlFZxQ/WMR4J9JeBXI/AAAAAAAADBM/-NIHZpYeLRIqezB_0grKqp9O5agPI-l_QCLcB/s1600/benco%2Bb17%2B55%2Bgallon%2Bdrum.png" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-wEDEnMlFZxQ/WMR4J9JeBXI/AAAAAAAADBM/-NIHZpYeLRIqezB_0grKqp9O5agPI-l_QCLcB/s200/benco%2Bb17%2B55%2Bgallon%2Bdrum.png" width="170" /></a>B17 and other powder coating strippers must be stored in an HDPE container with a lid. I suggest a container that is as big as your oven (if you are using a household oven or smaller). Since you cannot powder coat things larger than your oven, there is no reason to have a stripping tank larger than your oven. If you do have a large oven, I suggest a stripping tank that accommodates your biggest, most-frequently coated item. Example: If you often coat 22" rims, make sure you get a drum that is at least 23"+ in diameter. If you are powder coating motorcycle frames, get a tank that can fit at least have the frame in at a time. For the people powder coating smaller items, most of the time you can get away with the container that the B17 comes in. If you need to strip something that will not fit inside of the stripping container, you can soak some rags in B17, and lay them or wrap them around the part. This will work, it is just more labor intensive and takes longer.<br />
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These <b><a href="http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=as_li_ss_tl?_encoding=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&field-keywords=eagle%20overpack%20drums&linkCode=ur2&tag=powcoathecomg-20&url=search-alias%3Daps&linkId=TSXG6N3HWCW343LO" target="_blank">Eagle Overpack Drums</a></b> are perfect for B17 use and are the same tanks a lot of professional powder coating shops use. They have a sealing lid which you is highly desirable. It will contain the smell and will stop the evaporation of the chemical. They are a little pricey, but you only have to buy it once and they are the absolute best way to store a dangerous chemical like B17.</div>
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Here you can see a very professional powder coat stripping area using 2 95-gallon Eagle Overpack Drum, one for the B17 stripper and one is used as a rinsing tank. Also take note of the safety equipment such as the ventilation fan, chemical gloves, and chemical apron. This is a good idea of the safety precautions that need to be taken when dealing with B17 in a shop.</div>
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-2NxSqTTzRVE/WMR5N5KNCVI/AAAAAAAADBY/o9r0EyynUOENY0QjvayGhRXx_42XD7ITwCLcB/s1600/benco%2Bb17%2Bpowder%2Bcoat%2Bstripper.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-2NxSqTTzRVE/WMR5N5KNCVI/AAAAAAAADBY/o9r0EyynUOENY0QjvayGhRXx_42XD7ITwCLcB/s640/benco%2Bb17%2Bpowder%2Bcoat%2Bstripper.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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These drums come in a couple different sizes so you will need to decide which one is right for you. Keep in mind the inside dimensions of your average home oven are about: 23" wide x 19" deep x 15" tall.</div>
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<b><a href="https://www.amazon.com/Eagle-1650-Overpack-Salvage-Secondary/dp/B009JB6GL8/ref=as_li_ss_tl?keywords=eagle+overpack+drum&qid=1553071443&s=gateway&sr=8-4&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=f11d8c46345352bfbcc5afff20e4a08a&language=en_US" target="_blank">The 20 gallon drum</a><img alt="" border="0" height="1" hidden="" src="https://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=powcoathecomg-20&l=as2&o=1&a=B002FCP4WU" style="border: medium none; display: none; margin: 0px;" width="1" /></b> matches a household oven almost perfectly. It has a diameter of 21" and is 21" tall. This is a great powder coat stripping drum for the home powder coater doing small parts.</div>
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<a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003JFL6X8/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=ac06e6b7a65bc6950742d4b3451f039c"><img alt="benco b17 storage" border="0" height="320" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-zHKXBUO5gK8/V75jDAqVRzI/AAAAAAAACyI/92rNdD7H2Y8eULlrHQ3CpPBsAmNe5agsQCLcB/s320/710VFMfZVPL._SL1500_.jpg" title="benco b17 storage" width="224" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0025QAO6C/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B0025QAO6C&linkCode=as2&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=3WLNK4Q566PO6F6O" target="_blank"><b>The 65 gallon drum</b></a><img alt="" border="0" height="1" hidden="" src="https://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=powcoathecomg-20&l=as2&o=1&a=B00E1N6LD2" style="border: medium none; display: none; margin: 0px;" width="1" /> is perfect for wheels. It has a 31" diameter so it can all types of wheels and because it is 33" tall, it can fit at least 2 wheels at a time.</div>
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<a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0025QAO6C/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=fa4d8e1f2d9e72fad015813704b52f05"><img alt="Benco B17 Powder coat stripper storage container" border="0" height="320" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-rLt5knprMdk/V75jDcm5rJI/AAAAAAAACyU/wSaYGiGs4341GcfskbY0b83EXBODr_7OgCEw/s320/81sDcrv3buL._SL1500_.jpg" title="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003JFL6X8/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=ac06e6b7a65bc6950742d4b3451f039c" width="244" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003JFL55C/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B003JFL55C&linkCode=as2&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=37EU7LIEZUI7OO2F" target="_blank"><b>The 95 Gallon Drum</b></a> is for the serious powder coater. This drum will fit 4 wheels at one time which is sure to up your efficiency. 31" diameter x 41" tall.</div>
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<a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003JFL55C/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=d21482ede8550fa6df027f0051ab9f95"><img alt="Benco B17 Powder coat stripper storage container" border="0" height="297" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-lmQK2N35C50/V75jDGbQtxI/AAAAAAAACyE/2KDCU4eDvokpUAPVJOrzv94ZhsK1vdWRQCEw/s320/61T4hOzr4AL._SL1124_.jpg" title="" width="320" /></a></div>
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Chains can be used to lower and raise large parts into the drum. For smaller parts, a <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Dynalon-Polyethylene-Round-Dipping-Basket/dp/B004AHL3G4/ref=as_li_ss_tl?keywords=hdpe+dipping+basket&qid=1553072115&s=gateway&sr=8-2-fkmrnull&th=1&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=84d9d8d6ada19b5be9d321010202e1d8&language=en_US" target="_blank"><b>dipping basket</b></a> can be used. </div>
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<a href="https://www.amazon.com/Dynalon-Polyethylene-Round-Dipping-Basket/dp/B004AHL3G4/ref=as_li_ss_tl?keywords=hdpe+dipping+basket&qid=1553072115&s=gateway&sr=8-2-fkmrnull&th=1&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=84d9d8d6ada19b5be9d321010202e1d8&language=en_US"><img alt="https://www.amazon.com/Dynalon-Polyethylene-Round-Dipping-Basket/dp/B004AHL3G4/ref=as_li_ss_tl?keywords=hdpe+dipping+basket&qid=1553072115&s=gateway&sr=8-2-fkmrnull&th=1&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=84d9d8d6ada19b5be9d321010202e1d8&language=en_US" border="0" data-original-height="1081" data-original-width="1000" height="320" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ezbl-7k_DyE/XJIAxP-rgjI/AAAAAAAAES8/X_mBm2bV4rAhL_g1Mn-DZM1Q0uthKHihQCLcBGAs/s320/benco%2Bb17%2Bpowder%2Bcoat%2Bstripping%2Bdipping%2Bbasket.jpg" width="296" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><b> Safe Handling</b></span></div>
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Benco B17 is a very effective but very dangerous powder coat stripper. It can burn your skin on contact. Do not go near this chemical without gloves and eye protection. I recommend the following.</div>
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<b><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BNMKW9S/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00BNMKW9S&linkCode=as2&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=HSGR5PGLMTMUTWON" target="_blank">Elbow Length Multi-Layer Glove</a></b><br />
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/3M-Respirator-6800-Respiratory-Protection/dp/B007JZ1K1C/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1472095228&sr=8-10&keywords=3m+respirator&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=fc05bbbbfb24eaea28411cc111420568" target="_blank"><b>Full Face Respirator</b></a><br />
<b><a href="https://www.amazon.com/Ansell-White-Vinyl-Chemical-Protection/dp/B00PG3FG4Q/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1517949632&sr=8-11&keywords=chemical+apron&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=ab581920144a4ff4b927830c04058c06" target="_blank">Heavy Duty Apron</a></b><br />
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<a href="https://www.amazon.com/Ansell-White-Vinyl-Chemical-Protection/dp/B00PG3FG4Q/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1517949632&sr=8-11&keywords=chemical+apron&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=ab581920144a4ff4b927830c04058c06" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="benco b17 power coat stripper apron" border="0" height="200" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-D-8ZhRub1DU/V75jDL6-aaI/AAAAAAAACyM/CgQ4r-kecu47lhecy0Toh1HN0t39eIdTgCEw/s200/71J5yR7gILL._SL1500_.jpg" title="" width="124" /></a><a href="https://www.amazon.com/3M-Respirator-6800-Respiratory-Protection/dp/B007JZ1K1C/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1472095228&sr=8-10&keywords=3m+respirator&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=d2052ff54e08f53d3781ac17e9c864d5" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="benco b17 respirator" border="0" height="200" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-OIqmCaSqHtw/V75kO_DvgtI/AAAAAAAACyc/VZlnLbnMGMso5Fj7gB9Z6WMEZGx64nw7wCEw/s200/31cHBeqmQ5L.jpg" title="" width="200" /></a><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BNMKW9S/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=6804c0c828aab52deb0792c34caa94f8" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="benco b17 powder coat stripper gloves" border="0" height="200" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mza1V2IqZZ4/V75jC2T5DQI/AAAAAAAACx4/erokRDrnwMAmXSCaECTQQ_YJu8IBV5P2gCEw/s200/31mRipGUVOL.jpg" title="" width="135" /></a></div>
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If you use the B17, remember to be careful. It is a serious stripper. Avoid actions that it will cause it to splash or spill. If you have small kids or animals that go in your work space, I don't recommend it. Be sure to read all of the safety warnings on the Benco website.</div>
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<h3 style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-large;"><b>Alternative Powder Coat Stripping Methods</b></span></h3>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b> </b></span></h4>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Powder Strip by Express Chem</b></span></h4>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b> </b></span> </h4>
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-G-4tuVVHfgA/WMR1THt0kfI/AAAAAAAADA4/Zj5xs6NVyxgzrzxMLl_2Qp-x3v8Y70EHQCLcB/s1600/Powder%2BStrip.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="75" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-G-4tuVVHfgA/WMR1THt0kfI/AAAAAAAADA4/Zj5xs6NVyxgzrzxMLl_2Qp-x3v8Y70EHQCLcB/s200/Powder%2BStrip.jpg" width="200" /></a>Benco B17 is not the only powder coat stripper on the market. There are others that work well, not as well as B17, but the trade-off is that they are more pleasant to use. <a href="https://powderstrip.com/shop/powder-coating-stripper-liquid/">Powder Strip</a> PS-1L is another powder coat stripper that I have used with good results. It is not quite as fast as Benco B17 and sometimes there will be some stubborn powder coat stuck in a crevice that does not get removed, but the smell is much better and it does not burn skin immediately on contact. PS-1L is by no-means safe to handle carelessly, but if you do ever happen to slip up and get drop of it on your skin, you will have time to get to a sink and wash it off before it burns and leaves scars. I can be around it with just a respirator and not smell a thing. There are several strippers of different strength strippers from Powder Strip and you can request some samples to choose which one you want to use. Keep in mind that the stronger stripper, PS-2L, will burn skin on contact. The average price for Powder Strip is $160 for a 5 gallon drum, $430 for a 30 gallon drum, or $640 for a 55 gallon drum. <br />
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<h4>
<span style="font-size: large;">Paint Stripper</span></h4>
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<a href="https://www.amazon.com/KBS-Coatings-19500-Remover-Stripper/dp/B002GCI8OK/ref=as_li_ss_tl?keywords=aircraft+remover&qid=1553073304&s=gateway&sr=8-2&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=46218ffa08a2b5bf7e01ae93f0a59488&language=en_US" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="https://www.amazon.com/KBS-Coatings-19500-Remover-Stripper/dp/B002GCI8OK/ref=as_li_ss_tl?keywords=aircraft+remover&qid=1553073304&s=gateway&sr=8-2&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=46218ffa08a2b5bf7e01ae93f0a59488&language=en_US" border="0" data-original-height="1500" data-original-width="1009" height="200" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-pHSm0bUq99U/XJIFKtj8gPI/AAAAAAAAETI/wmEA1BvhmNokSqZS08K1GtC30bKGfwzygCLcBGAs/s200/paint%2Bstripper%2Bpowder%2Bcoating.jpg" width="134" /></a>While Benco B17 is commonly referred to as the best powder coating stripper, it is really meant for a powder coater that will use it frequently. If you powder coat a couple of times a year and need a every-once-in-awhile powder coat stripper, a more common paint stripper can be used. These come in aerosol which are basically a one-time use can, or <a href="https://www.amazon.com/KBS-Coatings-19500-Remover-Stripper/dp/B002GCI8OK/ref=as_li_ss_tl?keywords=aircraft+remover&qid=1553073304&s=gateway&sr=8-2&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=46218ffa08a2b5bf7e01ae93f0a59488&language=en_US">gels</a> which can be lathered on. These aren't extremely effective at removing powder coat, but with enough time and multiple applications, they can work. For an over-the-counter product such as these to have any effectiveness when stripping powder coat, it should contain methylene chloride. <br />
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It is best to wrap a part in saran wrap or a garbage bag after the product is applied as it will slow down evaporation. After waiting 30 minutes, unwrap the part and scrape off as much powder coat as you can. Repeat this process until all of the powder coat is removed. Chemical safe gloves, safety googles, and a respirator are also needed when using these products.<br />
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<h4>
<span style="font-size: large;">Sandblasting </span></h4>
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Another method to strip powder coat is <a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2013/01/8-media-blaster.html#.WnoU_edG19N">media blasting</a>, more commonly known as sandblasting. This will take a very long time even for smaller parts. It takes about 30 seconds per square inch to strip powder coating this way. If you have a sandblasting cabinet and don't want to invest in the B17, then this method is basically the only other way. You can see how long it takes me to blast off very small areas in the video below. The first part is powder coated, ignore the second part as it is just spray paint. <span style="font-size: small;"><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b><span style="font-size: large;">Burn-Off Oven</span></b></span></div>
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The burn-off oven method of stripping powder coat is not really for the DIY'er or small shop at all. It involves an oven that can heat parts up to 1000 degrees F to actually burn the powder coating off. I don't recommend this because at those temperatures, you are affecting the heat treating of steel and annealing aluminum. Also the ovens are very specialized, not something you can do with your home oven.<br />
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PowderCoatGuidehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12345212251907477269noreply@blogger.com44tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6576346347573188227.post-56988330698118532092013-07-27T11:25:00.003-07:002020-10-11T12:44:29.189-07:00Powder Coating: Perfect for Car RestorationsI am going to take a break on explaining the types of tools needed for powder coating and discuss powder coating from a car restoration standpoint. I am in the middle of a car restoration myself. My car is a Mitsubishi 3000GT VR-4. I learned to powder coat for this car and powder coating will play a major role in making this car look new and keep it that way for many years. Because powder coating comes in so many colors, shades and textures, it can match basically any finish possible. Even if you have a 60's era muscle car and would like a completely concourse restoration, powder coating can be used to match those original finishes.<br />
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/--PxJarWW6tw/Wv0lXO1L3pI/AAAAAAAADTc/T7xtaMgGEdkw8Hk-Uhm6dFxSsEW8VhzMQCEwYBhgL/s1600/alternator%2Bstarter%2Bpump%2Blogo.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="powder coated alternator power steering pump and starter motor" border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/--PxJarWW6tw/Wv0lXO1L3pI/AAAAAAAADTc/T7xtaMgGEdkw8Hk-Uhm6dFxSsEW8VhzMQCEwYBhgL/s640/alternator%2Bstarter%2Bpump%2Blogo.png" title="powder coated alternator power steering pump and starter motor" width="640" /></a></div>
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When doing a car restoration, you more than likely have an abundance of parts that look old. The cast iron and steel parts probably resemble a ball of rust, and the aluminum parts are likely stained and oxidized.<br />
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Example:<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-dDTkCkGq3U4/UfQWaAs2AKI/AAAAAAAABCI/dkdRhQE5fc0/s1600/IMAG06372.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating fan resistor housing" border="0" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-dDTkCkGq3U4/UfQWaAs2AKI/AAAAAAAABCI/dkdRhQE5fc0/s1600/IMAG06372.JPG" title="powder coating fan resistor housing" /></a></div>
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Above is a housing for a radiator fan resistor. It consists of 2 small simple parts. For anyone restoring a car to either brand new show room condition, or their own take on what brand new should look like... the condition of this part will not do. <br />
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<b><span style="font-size: x-large;">So what are your options?</span></b><br />
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<span style="font-size: x-large;">Spray Paint?</span></h4><p>
You can spray paint it. Spray paint is cheap and easy to apply.. BUT spray paint not only has a cheap look to it, but its durability is lacking. It is very easy to scratch or chip and because it is so easily damaged, it gives rust a chance to start, and spread. I have yet to find a spray paint that I can't dig into my fingernail.</p><p><br />
Here is a comparison video of spray paint vs. powder coat that I made: (The paint used is Duplicolor Engine Enamel over Duplicolor Self-Etching Primer)<br />
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<br /> <b><span style="font-size: x-large;">Two-Part Automotive Paint?</span></b><br />
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You can paint it using a two-part automotive paint. This is a great option for durability and it will look great. The paint will also prevent rust from forming underneath of it for many years. BUT this type of paint is expensive. Assuming you do not want to paint every single thing in your car one color, you will have to order a pint or quart of each color. Well a pint of paint runs about $30 for a good brand, then add the hardener for an other $30. Now do you want the part to be flat, semi-gloss, or really glossy? Each of those requires a different type of clear coat, and each clear coat needs its own hardener. Luckily, primer is pretty universal. You are looking at more than $100 for each color or gloss-level that you want to apply to your parts. After you buy all these paint materials, you must apply several coats of primer, paint, and clear all while waiting and cleaning out your paint gun in-between. It is very labor intensive and you will spend a lot of time to paint just the one little bracket above. You can paint parts in batches to save time, but you are still looking at a full days worth of work.<br />
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<b><span style="font-size: x-large;">Plating?</span></b><br />
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You can also have it plated in chrome, <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Caswell-Science-Plating-Kit-Zinc/dp/B06XCZJKYX/ref=as_li_ss_tl?dchild=1&keywords=zinc+plating+caswell&qid=1602445436&sr=8-1&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=e50bcc6d504f0983dfcfd06aa8350b39&language=en_US">zinc</a><img alt="" border="0" height="1" src="http://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=powcoathecomg-20&l=as2&o=1&a=B002SKJ2PO" style="border: medium none; margin: 0px;" width="1" />, nickel, cadmium, etc. Well chrome is expensive but if you want it to look like chrome, chrome plating is your only option so I am sure you are willing to pay the price. The other plating methods can be done by a plater or even by yourself with a kit from Caswell Plating or Eastwood. If you decide to take them to a plater, they will have a minimum order price. That one bracket above will cost the same as 100 brackets. So if you want to take all of your parts in at once, its a viable option and not a bad one. Each type of plating has its advantages and disadvantages. Just remember, the part above is zinc plated from the factory and that is what it looks like now. <br />
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<b><span style="font-size: x-large;">Powder Coating</span></b><br />
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Finally, the magical solution it would seem. You can powder coat it. Powder coating looks great, is extremely durable, and protects the metal from rust. Say you want this one part to have a nice gunmetal color and only this part. A 1/2 pound of powder runs about $7, clear is another $7. So $14 and you have all the supplies necessary to coat this part. Because I did not mention tools required(and the prices of them) to apply the coatings in the above methods, I will not mention it here either. All of the methods would require media blasting or at least getting the part down to clean bare metal so we will assume the part is media blasted before hand. So you have your freshly blasted part above, shoot a coat of powder on it, stick it in the oven for 20 minutes(5 minutes for the part to get up to temp), let it cool and your done. Or for the specific color shown below, it also needs a clear, repeat the process for the clear coat(another 22 minutes later) and it is done. Less than one hour of time spent, and $14 in materials(which there are still plenty left of) and the part is done and has a beautiful finish that will last for 20+years.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IWz7HaDYcdQ/UfQWPWqobLI/AAAAAAAABCA/ntIYVTnH_Yc/s1600/fan+resistor+2.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating engine bay parts" border="0" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IWz7HaDYcdQ/UfQWPWqobLI/AAAAAAAABCA/ntIYVTnH_Yc/s1600/fan+resistor+2.JPG" title="Powder Coating engine bay parts" /></a></div>
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Powder coating is not just for wheels and valve covers. It can play a huge role in your entire restoration. There are hundreds of small parts (parts that fit in your oven) that go into a car that don't justify all the time and money using a paint gun, but they are still worth more than what a can of spray paint has to offer. I believe powder coating is the perfect answer to this. Check out my powder coating transformations below:<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-V65gFdm4IRA/UfQQdWfrnnI/AAAAAAAABBo/BPUekE4iacs/s1600/ALTERNATOR+DONE.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Powder coating alternator" border="0" height="315" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-V65gFdm4IRA/UfQQdWfrnnI/AAAAAAAABBo/BPUekE4iacs/s640/ALTERNATOR+DONE.png" title="Powder coating alternator" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Alternator rebuilt and the housings powder coated in Bonded Black Chrome.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Wuw5f08rKuI/UfQQbv_X8YI/AAAAAAAABBY/OnhQ96QcuAA/s1600/BRAKE+MASTER+DONE.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Powder Coating brake master cylinder" border="0" height="516" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Wuw5f08rKuI/UfQQbv_X8YI/AAAAAAAABBY/OnhQ96QcuAA/s640/BRAKE+MASTER+DONE.png" title="Powder Coating brake master cylinder" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rebuilt Brake master cylinder and Clutch master cylinder done in Bonded Black Chrome</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-JganYCohU-E/UfQQcE_JWoI/AAAAAAAABBc/k0Cxn1rJ41o/s1600/BRAKE+PEDAL+DONE.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="powder coating pedal assembly" border="0" height="455" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-JganYCohU-E/UfQQcE_JWoI/AAAAAAAABBc/k0Cxn1rJ41o/s640/BRAKE+PEDAL+DONE.png" title="powder coating pedal assembly" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Brake & Clutch Pedal Assembly done in Matte Black & Gloss Black</td></tr>
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PowderCoatGuidehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12345212251907477269noreply@blogger.com15tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6576346347573188227.post-37440895367250654572013-07-26T00:27:00.003-07:002020-10-11T13:16:59.900-07:00Media Blasting Part II - Setting up a Sandblast Cabinet<div class="addthis_toolbox addthis_default_style" ev80mp2="" hidden="">
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<script type="text/javascript">var addthis_config = {"data_track_addressbar":true};</script><script src="//s7.addthis.com/js/300/addthis_widget.js#pubid=ra-521c315825184b6b" type="text/javascript"></script> This article will talk about setting up a media blasting cabinet to be as efficient as possible so that you can easily prepare your parts for powder coating. I explained the different types of media blasting methods such as pressure pot, siphon blasting, sandblasting cabinets, blasting outdoors, and dedicated media blasting rooms in the previous article: <b><a href="http://powdercoatguide.blogspot.com/2013/01/8-media-blaster.html">Media Blasting</a></b>. <br />
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For most powder coaters, a media blasting cabinet will be the most ideal way to prepare your parts for powder coating. They are available in a range of sizes that will suit small DIY projects up to very large projects. Media blasting cabinets keep all of your blasting media contained in a sealed environment and which allows you to get the most use out of your media and also keep your area clean. Here is an example of a cheap media blasting cabinet for a small DIY powder coating setup:<br />
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<a href="https://www.amazon.com/Central-Pneumatic-Capacity-Floor-Cabinet/dp/B01MTR40A4/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=blast+cabinet+40&qid=1590262833&sr=8-3" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="cheap sandblasting cabinet for powder coating" border="0" height="320" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-qMVqcFQicU8/V75maeGFzWI/AAAAAAAACyw/AWF-DTCflJ41dLjl7Jq81IK5aLZrJ32-ACLcB/s320/31OFtnarV3L.jpg" title="" width="320" /></a></div>
<b><a href="https://www.amazon.com/Central-Pneumatic-Capacity-Floor-Cabinet/dp/B01MTR40A4/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=blast+cabinet+40&qid=1590262833&sr=8-3">Cheap sandblasting cabinets</a></b> are great for DIY coaters because the internal dimensions pretty closely match the size of a household oven. As long as you don't get to claustrophobic, you don't necessarily need a gigantic blasting cabinet. An exception to this is that while most wheels will fit into the cabinet like the one mentioned above, if you want to turn the wheel over, it has to come out of the cabinet, be flipped around, and go back in. This is the point where you may want to spend the money on a <b><a href="https://www.amazon.com/Skat-Blast-Sandblast-Sandblasting-Cabinet/dp/B077J85C7Q/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1518337238&sr=8-8&keywords=tp+tools&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=111248f117ae5fd53bd97bd9d3fa0e3a">larger, higher quality blast cabinet</a></b> or hire-out your blasting. Unless you buy a larger cabinet that comes with great lighting, built-in dust collection, and is perfectly air tight out of the box, then you will need to do some modifications to your cabinet to make it more efficient. <br />
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<img alt="" border="0" height="1" hidden="" src="https://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=powcoathecomg-20&l=li3&o=1&a=B0094GCX8S" style="border: medium none; display: none; margin: 0px;" width="1" /><br />
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<b><span style="font-size: x-large;">Optimizing a Cheap Sand Blasting Cabinet</span></b><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Caulk the Cabinet's Seams </span></h4>
First, the cabinet I mentioned above is about the cheapest floor-standing cabinet available that closely matches the dimensions of a household oven. So of course, it is going to need a little tweaking. The first thing I did after assembly was to caulk all of the seams of the cabinet to make sure no sandblasting dust can escape the cabinet. If there is even a minor leak in the cabinet, you will notice that every surface of the garage will be covered with dust after awhile. I highly recommend <b><a href="https://www.amazon.com/Red-Devil-0770-Elastomeric-10-1-Ounce/dp/B003TEH2FK/ref=sr_1_6?dchild=1&keywords=latex+caulk&qid=1590263030&sr=8-6">Silicone free caulk</a></b> to seal up all of the inside seams and through bolts in your cabinet. This should be done before you have added any blasting media to the cabinet, otherwise, you must thoroughly clean the cabinet for the caulk to seal correctly.<br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Upgrade the Sandblasting Gun in the Cabinet</span></h4>
This is not 100% necessary but if you want an efficient sandblasting cabinet, a better sandblasting gun can make a world of difference. Skat Blast sandblasting guns are a great upgrade as they are more powerful, faster, and more comfortable than the guns that come with a cheap cabinet.<br />
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<a href="https://www.amazon.com/Skat-Blast-Trigger-Operated-Sandblasting-Cabinets/dp/B01N8U6NG3/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1489268249&sr=8-1&keywords=skat+blast+gun&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=73c3308c20f1e05683c0f42fc3f9569d"><img alt="https://www.amazon.com/Skat-Blast-Trigger-Operated-Sandblasting-Cabinets/dp/B01N8U6NG3/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1489268249&sr=8-1&keywords=skat+blast+gun&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=73c3308c20f1e05683c0f42fc3f9569d" border="0" height="320" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-8UfgFmuEU2I/WMRPbD9X8iI/AAAAAAAADAc/iJm40HV_TFgmyJatinE06ZyNlih9svfBgCEw/s320/Skat%2BBlast%2Bsandblasting%2Bgun.jpg" title="best sandblasting gun" width="320" /></a></div>
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There are different versions of the gun and nozzles available for different air compressors:<br />
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<b><u>Air Compressor Output</u> <u>Gun</u> <u>Nozzle</u></b><br />
4-9 CFM <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Skat-Blast-Trigger-Operated-Sandblasting-Cabinets/dp/B01N2WB4JL/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1489266424&sr=8-2&keywords=skat+blast+gun&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=fb05e768b07534cefae29e640853df2b">S-35 Small</a> <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Skat-Blast-Ceramic-Nozzle-Sandblasting/dp/B01N0UZ6T6/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1489261223&sr=8-3&keywords=skat+blast&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=e6a0e19c1b5b02e4e3450b6605f397d6">Small Ceramic</a><br />
10-15 CFM <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Skat-Blast-Trigger-Operated-Sandblasting-Cabinets/dp/B01N8U6NG3/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1489261223&sr=8-4&keywords=skat+blast&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=fbe795fe44d166298aee1174b2d9365f">S-35 Medium</a> <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Skat-Blast-Medium-Ceramic-Sandblasting/dp/B01N3UX22D/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1489255990&sr=8-16&keywords=skat+blast&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=4f8f51a5b8e250f558c66ed0aca03bfa">Medium Ceramic</a> / <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Skat-Blast-Blasters-Sandblasting-Cabinets/dp/B01N9163UJ/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1489255990&sr=8-11&keywords=skat+blast&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=555ffda8692d5bcfa89f3e8d017b5328">Medium Carbide</a><br />
20-25 CFM <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Skat-Blast-Foot-Pedal-Operated-Sandblasting/dp/B01MU32FYM/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1489260801&sr=8-17&keywords=skat+blast&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=3be3b9e103a8d1a9a34efa8c98ed50b6">C-35-S Large</a> <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Skat-Blast-Ceramic-Nozzle-Sandblasting/dp/B01NANBC3V/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1489266758&sr=8-8&keywords=skat+blast+nozzle&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=99b5202f128c2f4bac4ba1e844aed63c">Large Ceramic</a> <br />
25+ CFM <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Skat-Blast-Foot-Pedal-Sandblast-Cabinet/dp/B01NH08KBD/ref=as_li_ss_tl?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01NH08KBD&pd_rd_r=AKG6E4SGDAPES3XSMMAJ&pd_rd_w=Rr7me&pd_rd_wg=GAKnk&psc=1&refRID=AKG6E4SGDAPES3XSMMAJ&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=cf7da74d8728c9aa6749467cd58197e3">High-Volume Gun</a> <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Skat-Blast-Hi-Pro-High-Power/dp/B06WP4YW8G/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1489266828&sr=8-21&keywords=skat+blast+nozzle&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=8bc2d8ff00ced4698a3657f57343eefb">High-Volume Head</a><br />
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<br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><b>The next step is protecting the window.</b></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><b> </b></span> <br />
Your blast cabinet comes with a tempered glass window for safety reasons. If you do nothing to protect it, the window will slowly be etched by your media bouncing back and hitting the glass. This can happen to the point of not being able to see through the window at all. <br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/Dragway-Tools-Window-Sandblast-Cabinet/dp/B006ZC319O/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1518337938&sr=8-1&keywords=sandblasting+cabinet+window+film&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=551cf16f367973044cbfd5ce069c4f68" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="sandblasting cabinet peel off window protector" border="0" height="119" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-42dHdnUIU3o/V75maAxXmvI/AAAAAAAACys/tvetAYiJunAjQYkirtkhrpBAbf7xvIEkQCEw/s200/616NXFd07HL._SL1500_.jpg" title="" width="200" /></a><b><a href="https://www.amazon.com/Dragway-Tools-Window-Sandblast-Cabinet/dp/B006ZC319O/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1518337938&sr=8-1&keywords=sandblasting+cabinet+window+film&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=551cf16f367973044cbfd5ce069c4f68">Peel-off window films</a></b> protect the sandblasting cabinet window<img alt="" border="0" height="1" hidden="" src="https://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=powcoathecomg-20&l=as2&o=1&a=B006ZC30IQ" style="border: medium none; display: none; margin: 0px;" width="1" />. These are just like the little plastic sheets you put on the touchscreen of your cell phone. They are meant to be applied to the window and they take the beating instead of the glass. The life you get on them depends on how close you blast to your window and what PSI your blasting at. Blasting should be done as far away from the window as possible and at a 45° angle so that the media deflects off to the side of the cabinet instead of right back at it. Once the film becomes etched, just peel it off, clean the glass, and apply a new film. <br />
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<img alt="" border="0" height="1" hidden="" src="https://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=powcoathecomg-20&l=as2&o=1&a=B006ZC30IQ" style="border: medium none; display: none; margin: 0px;" width="1" /><br />
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<br />
Another option is going down to Lowe's or Home Depot and having a piece of glass cut the same exact dimensions of your window. They charge about $10 for glass that size and they will cut it for free. (UPDATE: Some Lowe's and Home Depot have stopped cutting glass to custom sizes. Please call ahead first.) Then just take that piece of glass and place it on the inside of the tempered glass that came in your cabinet. The cut piece of glass will last longer than the sticky film sheets mentioned above but you do have to disassemble your window shroud every time you want to replace the protector glass. Also put a piece of tape around the border of the two pieces of glass to seal them together. Otherwise media will manage to get lodged in there and there is no way to get it out without disassembling the whole window frame. <br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Lighting your Cabinet:</b></span><br />
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qxrQqZKFvSA/V4Xi7GAzMaI/AAAAAAAACiU/AosLBPYEjxYPG4dZQ8F8_VxqB0ib8HnmgCLcB/s1600/sandblasting%2Bcabinet%2Blights.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qxrQqZKFvSA/V4Xi7GAzMaI/AAAAAAAACiU/AosLBPYEjxYPG4dZQ8F8_VxqB0ib8HnmgCLcB/s640/sandblasting%2Bcabinet%2Blights.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<br />
Most media blasting cabinets come with some sort of overhead light. If you are using a bench top blast cabinet or if you would like some extra light, a very cheap light that works well is a <b><a href="https://www.amazon.com/Aqueon-Single-TUbe-Strip-Light/dp/B00BS97ZVO/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&redirect=true&ref_=as_li_qf_sp_asin_tl&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=dfcef638753c29b35247c0aef8477740">fish tank hood light</a></b> placed on the top portion of the blast cabinet window. It is what I use on my cabinet, and it provides all of the light I need. Because the light is outside the cabinet, it is protected from dust and from being etched by the media. If you use any internal cabinet lighting, the dust can build up on the light until the point that no light is visible. However, in blast cabinet, the more lighting, the better. <b><a href="https://www.amazon.com/Round-Magnetic-Integral-Hanging-Magnet/dp/B00UMSEP0Q/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1468392016&sr=8-2&keywords=magnetic+lights&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=a0ce972a7aa559adb3c1340508b2f5d8">Puck lights</a></b> or <b><a href="https://www.amazon.com/Triangle-Bulbs-Waterproof-Flexible-T93007-1/dp/B005EHHLD8/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1468391513&sr=8-4&keywords=led+light+strips&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=93e8898f6031801277816f4a0dcc4ee9">LED light strips</a></b> are a great way to add more light. Just keep in mind, that without some kind of protection, they will eventually become etched by the blasting media and lose their ability to light up the cabinet. So either go cheap with the lights or use some kind of glass or plexiglass shielding. Even more important is to protect any of the lights wiring running inside of the cabinet. It wouldn't take long for for the blasting media to wear away at the wire insulation which could turn your entire media blasting cabinet into a shock hazard. <br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><br />
</span><b><span style="font-size: large;">Dust Collection:</span></b><br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;"> </span><br />
</b><br />
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006ZBD0XC/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=03128ce61b4228f37a9b1ace7954a5ee" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="sand blasting cabinet dust collector" border="0" height="200" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Id-kfzncwcQ/V75maXXpuHI/AAAAAAAACy8/LrWhIj3FWYkZETseLkHtKALUZyj2rCvTACEw/s200/61ZNYP9d1RL._SL1200_.jpg" title="" width="200" /></a>Whatever media you use are using to blast with will eventually break down into fine dust. It will float around inside your cabinet reducing visibility to the point that you cannot see a thing. It will also leak out of any openings in the cabinet and completely coat every thing in the room. This is where a <b><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006ZBD0XC/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B006ZBD0XC&linkCode=as2&tag=powcoathecomg-20">Dust Collector</a></b> comes in to play. These are specialized vacuum systems that you hook up to your cabinet. They clean all of the dust out of the air in your blasting cabinet. Media blasting cabinet dust collectors can be a little expensive for most hobbyists, costing more than the cabinet usually, so it is common to build your own using some DIY methods. <br />
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">DIY Dust Collection:</span></b><br />
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I have used an improvised dust collector made from an old vacuum cleaner and a thein baffle. I eventually switched to a shop-vac which is more powerful and quieter but it takes up more space. If you have neither, go with the <b><a href="https://www.amazon.com/RIDGID-14-Gal-Peak-Auto-Detailing/dp/B00CLATFTE/ref=as_li_ss_tl?keywords=rigid+vac&qid=1553391652&s=gateway&sr=8-5&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=f34a366404983f1293b95871ff0659b3&language=en_US">shop vac</a></b>. I personally believe Rigid shop-vacs are superior to the other brands when spending less than $200. If you don't have any floor space available, <a href="https://www.amazon.com/VAC5000-Portable-Cleaner-5-Gallon-Horsepower/dp/B017EOLGVQ/ref=as_li_ss_tl?keywords=rigid+wall+mount+vac&qid=1553391942&s=gateway&sr=8-2&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=cf45817b95547dafbd5459d1234ae5e2&language=en_US">wall-mount shop vacs</a> are available that will keep your sandblasting cabinet area tidy, however, most of them come with a 1 7/8" diameter hose instead of a 2 1/2" hose of a standard shop vac. <br />
<br />
There are two issues with using a vacuum or a shop vac. The first one is that they are much louder than an actual media blasting cabinet dust collection system. If I am going to be blasting for longer than a couple of minutes, I will wear ear plugs or headphones to avoid listening to the constant drone of the vacuum. The other issue is that shop-vac and vacuum filters are not designed to catch small blasting particles. The dust particles produced from blasting are smaller than the filter can catch allowing them to travel right through it and into the motor. These particles will quickly wear down the motor. The particles that don't flow right through the filter will quickly clog the filter which leads to cleaning the filter after every half hour of blasting which gets very tedious.<br />
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A way to overcome the constantly cleaning the filter is to pre-filter the blast media before it reaches the vacuum. The type of pre-filter commonly used is called either a thein baffle or water bong. It can be made with a 5 gallon bucket, two vacuum hoses, and some cheap plumbing fittings.<br />
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The idea is that the as the media is sucked through the first hose, it is pointed directly downwards toward the water where it will get trapped, but the air can still pass up to the hose connected to the vacuum. It works surprisingly well and extends my filter cleaning periods from 30 minutes to a week. But now cleaning the filter means scraping out wet sludge out of the bottom of the bucket, filling back up with water and putting back into use.<br />
<br />
Quick instructions on what how I made this. I save vacuum parts like the hoses and tubes because I have found several times when they served to be useful.<br />
<br />
<b>MATERIALS NEEDED:</b> <br />
<b></b><br />
<ul><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A1LUFK8/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=03c57dff21f5248d9a8b228fac9dc6fe" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A1LUFK8/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=03c57dff21f5248d9a8b228fac9dc6fe" border="0" height="200" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-UxGrnwu1BkI/V75nntrEFTI/AAAAAAAACzI/-Wkr_2kOSy0JhFNBA6vcDRBEgzRPGllPQCLcB/s200/31wFO19cOfL.jpg" width="150" /></a>
<li>2 vacuum hoses(a vacuum or shop vac should have one already)</li>
<li>1 tube that fits inside the first hose(I used the extension tool that comes with vacuums, cut to length, pvc pipe would work also.</li>
<li>1 something to angle the 2nd tube towards the wall of the bucket(I used another vacuum tool here, the little brush attachment that is for cleaning upholstery, I just cut off all the bristles)</li>
<li>5 gallon bucket with tight fitting lid</li>
<li>caulk </li>
</ul>
<br />
<b>STEPS:</b><br />
<br />
<ol>
<li>Cut 2 holes in the lid of a 5 gallon bucket. I just traced the outside diameter of each vacuum hose onto the bucket lid and cut it the holes using a Dremel. If you have hole saws the same size, great, use those. </li>
<li>Insert hose end into bucket lid, I cut mine out so it would fit pretty tight. I then sealed both sides of the lid with caulk. Do the same with the other hose end.</li>
<li>Attach 1st hose to a hole in the cabinet. My cabinet already had a hole in it for for this purpose and it also had a block off plate since the cabinet didn't come with a dust collector. I originally cut a hole in the block-off plate and sealed the other end of the hose to the plate. This meant that the bucket lid was permanently attached to the cabinet though so I later changed this to a removable design. </li>
<li>Wait for caulk to dry so you can handle the lid.</li>
<li>Insert extension tube into 1st hose and cut it off about 4 inches from the bottom of the bucket.</li>
<li>Insert angle vacuum attachment onto other hose</li>
<li>Fill bucket with water just below the tube(if the tube is going directly into the water, it can cause a vacuum so strong that it will crush the bucket)</li>
<li>Hook up 2nd vacuum hose to vacuum.</li>
<li>Your blast cabinet will need some type of breather to allow air in, otherwise the negative pressure tends to suck the gloves right off of the cabinet. My cabinet had a 2nd hole in it for whatever reason along with a block off plate. I just removed the plate and taped a Scotchbrite pad to the open port to prevent media from flying out.</li>
<li>Optional: If you use a shop vac, you can skip this since a shop vac is already pretty compact. A regular vacuum is pretty bulky in my garage. I took all the unused stuff off the vacuum: the handle, the entire bottom section with the wheels and brushes and other random pieces. Now it fits with the bucket underneath my cabinet near the back so it takes up no room.</li>
</ol>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>A Better Alternative to DIY Blasting Cabinet Dust Collection:</b></span><br />
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A much less labor intensive alternative to the thein baffle mentioned before is a Dust Deputy and it's conical design will work better than the plumbing fittings used above. These are very commonly used in home shops for dust filtration. They are designed to hookup to a standard shop-vac and catch all of the small dust before it reaches the vacuum. In other words, they are designed for exactly this purpose. The Dust Deputy can be ordered <b><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002JP315K/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B002JP315K&linkCode=as2&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=DQEQM3RZNVUOBACI">here</a></b> but you will need your own bucket and vacuum hose. You will also need to modify the bucket lid to mount the dust deputy. If you want a ready-to-go setup, they also offer this <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Oneida-AXD000004-The-Dust-Deputy/dp/B002GZLCHM/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1468389220&sr=8-2&keywords=dust+deputy&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=afef1c9e4eda07062637871e7085c960&language=en_US">kit that comes with the bucket and extra hose</a>.<b><br /></b><br />
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For conveniences sake, I attached a power strip to the sandblasting cabinet to plug the vacuum and lighting into. With the switch on the power strip, I can turn everything on and off as easily as if it were built in.<br />
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With these adjustments and modification, even a cheap cabinet like the one I use can work great. However, if you want a very high quality cabinet set-up out of the box, complete with lighting and a dust collection system, this <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Skat-Blast-Sandblast-Sandblasting-Cabinet/dp/B077J85C7Q/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1518337238&sr=8-8&keywords=tp+tools&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=111248f117ae5fd53bd97bd9d3fa0e3a"><b>TP Tools Blast Cabinet</b></a><b> </b>cannot be beat. It is literally the best deal I have seen for a complete cabinet of this size with all of the high-end features. <br />
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><br />
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><b>Media Blasting Outside or in a Blast Room</b></span><br />
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<a href="https://www.amazon.com/Abrasive-Sandblaster-Hood-Sandblasting-Helmet/dp/B00442XOKI/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1518338305&sr=8-3&keywords=sandblasting+hood&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=bf5b173804c4b777467e96423b83e7ed" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="https://www.amazon.com/Abrasive-Sandblaster-Hood-Sandblasting-Helmet/dp/B00442XOKI/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1518338305&sr=8-3&keywords=sandblasting+hood&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=bf5b173804c4b777467e96423b83e7ed" border="0" data-original-height="500" data-original-width="346" height="200" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DyufD11ND-8/WoABWMvLifI/AAAAAAAADOQ/JZfErgImAQ0Q1IgWpOl8-lSQREAvla67ACLcBGAs/s200/sandblasting%2Bhood.jpg" width="138" /></a>Lets say you are a little bit more serious and have a large powder coating oven big enough to do subframes, axles housings, etc. Parts like this would need a huge blast cabinet so that is the point where you may want to take your blasting outside or set up a dedicated media blasting room.<img alt="" border="0" height="1" hidden="" src="https://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=powcoathecomg-20&l=li3&o=1&a=B0045I5H06" style="border: medium none; display: none; margin: 0px;" width="1" /><br />
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To do blasting outside, you need to protect all of your skin, your eyes, and your lungs. A <b><a href="https://www.amazon.com/Abrasive-Sandblaster-Hood-Sandblasting-Helmet/dp/B00442XOKI/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1518338305&sr=8-3&keywords=sandblasting+hood&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=bf5b173804c4b777467e96423b83e7ed">sandblasting hood</a></b><img alt="" border="0" height="1" hidden="" src="https://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=powcoathecomg-20&l=as2&o=1&a=B0045I5H06" style="border: medium none; display: none; margin: 0px;" width="1" /> will help keep your head protected, and I never blast outside the cabinet without a<b> <a href="https://www.amazon.com/3M-Paint-Project-Respirator-Medium/dp/B00004Z4EB/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&adid=12SWYJ1XVS54C6SGSCX0&ref-refURL=http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2013/07/media-blasting-continued.html&ref_=as_sl_pc_tf_lc&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=56809942b1f0623ad4f7abc35b0e128f">respirator</a></b>. Make sure you avoid using sand whether blasting in a cabinet or outside. Blasting with sand is dangerous for your lungs and there are much safer alternatives. <br />
and long pants will be fine to cover up your skin. For your face and eyes, <br />
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If you plan on media blasting at more than a hobbyist level, such as everyday at work, you may want to look into a <b><a href="https://www.amazon.com/Breathecool-Supplied-Fresh-Respirator-System/dp/B00GAFDBJG/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1468389802&sr=8-2&keywords=supplied+air+system&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=0915acd33761b1f84355a0d75e1fb8c0">supplied air breathing system</a></b><img alt="" border="0" height="1" hidden="" src="https://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=powcoathecomg-20&l=as2&o=1&a=B000FN6PKQ" style="border: medium none; display: none; margin: 0px;" width="1" /> to supply clean air to a sand blasting helmet. With this, there is a small compressor that supplies filter air that is safe for human consumption. You place the compressor in an area that can take in clean fresh air and it pumps the air to your mask for you to breathe. This is also the only way to ensure you are protecting your lungs when painting with two part automotive paints.<br />
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Now that you are suited up and ready to blast safely, I recommend setting up your blasting area on a large tarp. This serves as a clean place for your used media to land while your blasting. Once your bucket or pressure pot of media is empty, you can sweep it up and pour it back in to get more use out of it. Just make sure you filter the media. I use a window screen folded over itself a couple times.<br />
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-1gKLB2aiOi8/V4Xc0YQ-qgI/AAAAAAAACh8/bhQpGNkgEYc8WZzE1IgzJgGB6KvAtW8CwCLcB/s1600/sandblasting%2Boutside.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="520" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-1gKLB2aiOi8/V4Xc0YQ-qgI/AAAAAAAACh8/bhQpGNkgEYc8WZzE1IgzJgGB6KvAtW8CwCLcB/s640/sandblasting%2Boutside.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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If you are in a professional environment, or just have a really big garage, you can setup a dedicated blasting room for large parts. This works out basically the same as blasting outside, except your media is contained in the room. <br />
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That sums it up for setting up your media blaster / sand blaster. It is really a great tool to have and once you have one, you will wonder why you didn't have one all your life.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-6STDbykfvQI/VY-OKf80wyI/AAAAAAAACAc/ZeNhwS5FweE/s1600/IMAG0923.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="sandblasted alternator cover" border="0" height="179" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-6STDbykfvQI/VY-OKf80wyI/AAAAAAAACAc/ZeNhwS5FweE/s320/IMAG0923.jpg" title="sandblasted alternator cover" width="320" /></a><span style="color: #cc0000;"><span style="font-size: x-large;"><b>Media blasting also known as sandblasting is a great preparation method for powder coating.</b></span></span></h2>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>When powder coating, it is very important that the item you are coating is completely clean of oils, dirt, paint, rust, corrosion, and damaged plating (zinc, nickel, chrome, etc). All of these things can interfere with the powder coating process causing imperfections in the finish or causing it to fail completely. After cleaning your item of all oils and dirt, a media blaster does the job of removing rust and corrosion very easily and thoroughly when compared to other methods. </b></span><br />
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You can see how effective sandblasting is at cleaning metal here: <br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wkSdeqAILtg/Wv-TbOtYajI/AAAAAAAADUc/6dK86dqflcM8rrgeN2JBqVJwdJSgvv_DwCLcBGAs/s1600/SANDBLASTING%2BBEFORE%2BAFTER.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="sandblasting before and after" border="0" data-original-height="422" data-original-width="1082" height="249" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wkSdeqAILtg/Wv-TbOtYajI/AAAAAAAADUc/6dK86dqflcM8rrgeN2JBqVJwdJSgvv_DwCLcBGAs/s640/SANDBLASTING%2BBEFORE%2BAFTER.png" title="sandblasting before and after" width="640" /></a></div>
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The main advantage that sandblasting offers besides the deep-cleaning of metal when preparing your items for powder coating is that it gives the item a surface profile or "tooth". Think of sanding a piece of metal with sandpaper and you see the thousands of little scratches that it leaves. These scratches create high points and low points in the metal which increases the available surface area for paint and powder coat to stick to. This is called a profile. A profile allows the powder coat to seep into all of these high and low points which allow it adhere to the part much better than if the metal was completely smooth. While sanding with sandpaper can give your object a profile, it is much more tedious and sometimes difficult for complex items, a sandblaster creates a uniform textured finish all over the entire surface of your part, and in places that no sandpaper can reach. Without a surface profile, powder coating can just peel off the surface, this is called delamination. <br />
<img alt="" border="0" height="1" hidden="" src="https://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=powcoathecomg-20&l=as2&o=1&a=B002LGM5ZO" style="border: medium none; display: none !important; margin: 0px;" width="1" /><br />
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Imagine that this picture is a microscopic view of a powder coated surface and decide which surface would allow the coating to adhere better.</center>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-u0IqjlMLDT8/UMLnX3xtqYI/AAAAAAAAA9M/7ft8Yv33rWQ/s1600/smooth%2Bsurface%2Bvs%2Bprofile.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating sandblasting media blasting profile tooth adhesion" border="0" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-u0IqjlMLDT8/UMLnX3xtqYI/AAAAAAAAA9M/7ft8Yv33rWQ/s400/smooth%2Bsurface%2Bvs%2Bprofile.png" title="" width="328" /></a></div>
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A sandblaster uses high pressure air to propel sand or other media. When this media hits the metal, it can knock off rust, scale, dirt, paint, or other coatings giving you a clean bare metal surface. This sandblasting gun can be placed inside of a sealed cabinet to contain all your media and allow you to reuse it. This cabinet is called a blast cabinet. There are also sandblasting guns and nozzles that can be used outside of a cabinet, such as in a blast room, or just anywhere outdoors. However, these require that you wear some personal protection equipment to keep your skin, eyes, and lungs safe.<br />
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To use a sandblaster, you will need an air compressor to supply you with this high pressure air, and a sandblaster consumes a lot of air so you will need a decent sized compressor. To see what kind of compressor you need or to see if your compressor is up to the task, take a look at "<a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2013/10/choosing-air-compressor.html#.VY3Lg1I72KV" target="_blank"><b>Choosing an Air Compressor</b></a>" Many DIY sandblasters out there state that you need at least a 2 stage 80 gallon air compressor that puts out at least 15cfm@90psi to sandblast. Air compressors are not cheap, even used, so while a large compressor like that would be ideal, you CAN make due with a smaller compressor. The general rule is to buy the most compressor you can afford, but if you can only afford a 5 gallon pancake air compressor, keep saving! I personally use a Husky 60 gallon air compressor that puts out 11cfm@90psi which is enough to blast continuously, however the I do stop to give the compressor breaks.<br />
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Sandblasting also requires very dry air from the air compressor. Otherwise the media mixes with the moisture and causes frequent clogging. Another downside to this is, is that when powder coating, you want your part to be perfectly clean after sandblasting. If you are blasting with oily, moisture laden air, then this will likely cause defects in the finish. See <b><a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2014/06/how-to-dry-compressed.html" target="_blank">How to Dry Compressed Air</a></b> for more info on this. <br />
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<span style="color: #cc0000;"><b><span style="font-size: x-large;">Siphon Feed VS. Pressure Pot Sand Blaster? </span></b></span></h4>
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As far as sandblasters go, there are 2 main types: "Siphon Feed" and "Pressure Pot". A <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Skat-Blast-Trigger-Operated-Sandblasting-Cabinets/dp/B01N8U6NG3/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1489255990&sr=8-4&keywords=skat+blast&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=3f67b564c017e2e3a353c4da83324a44" target="_blank"><b>siphon feed </b></a>sandblaster <img alt="" border="0" height="1" hidden="" src="https://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=powcoathecomg-20&l=am2&o=1&a=B000NPUKCU" style="border: medium none; display: none !important; margin: 0px;" width="1" />generally looks like a gun, it can have a trigger or a foot control pedal. The gun has 2 connections. One is an air supply line from your air compressor and the other is a media pick-up hose which is a larger diameter hose that you can stick in a bucket of media. As the air passes through the sandblast gun, it uses a venturi effect to suck the media through the media hose and force it out of the nozzle of the gun. This style of sandblasting gun is cheap and gets the job done. Another great thing about these sandblasting guns, is you can stick the pick-up tube in baking soda and use it soda blast. It is not quite as efficient as a dedicated soda blaster, but I have used it to soda blast 100<b> </b>pounds of nuts and bolts with no problems.<br />
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<a href="https://www.amazon.com/Skat-Blast-Trigger-Operated-Sandblasting-Cabinets/dp/B01N8U6NG3/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1489255990&sr=8-4&keywords=skat+blast&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=7dae54d43428917fbf543b5a64951230" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="skat blast - best sandblasting gun" border="0" height="200" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-8UfgFmuEU2I/WMRPbD9X8iI/AAAAAAAADAY/lsbncvkKHJUSwJzMgBSx0-0tyv3xRV6kgCLcB/s200/Skat%2BBlast%2Bsandblasting%2Bgun.jpg" title="" width="200" /></a>This <b><a href="https://www.amazon.com/Skat-Blast-Trigger-Operated-Sandblasting-Cabinets/dp/B01N8U6NG3/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1489255990&sr=8-4&keywords=skat+blast&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=3f67b564c017e2e3a353c4da83324a44">Skat Blast Sandblasting Gun</a></b> is the gun in my cabinet. This is the best sandblasting gun I have used and it is worth the price. The long handle makes it very comfortable to use since it requires very little effort to keep it depressed. It also feels more powerful than cheaper sandblasting guns and makes quicker work of sandblasting jobs. It comes with a steel nozzle, but after it gets worn out, I recommend using <b><a href="https://www.amazon.com/Skat-Blast-Medium-Ceramic-Sandblasting/dp/B01N3UX22D/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1489255990&sr=8-16&keywords=skat+blast&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=5e9f6b45143f942743319b6eb7350b0c">ceramic nozzles</a></b> as they last much longer, or even better would be a <b><a href="https://www.amazon.com/Skat-Blast-Blasters-Sandblasting-Cabinets/dp/B01N9163UJ/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1489255990&sr=8-11&keywords=skat+blast&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=b08ce777938543650986e6de5e17aa64">carbide nozzle</a></b> as it will last a very long time.<br />
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There are different versions of the gun and nozzles available for different air compressors:<br />
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<b><u>Air Compressor Output</u> <u>Gun</u> <u>Nozzle</u></b><br />
4-9 CFM <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Skat-Blast-Trigger-Operated-Sandblasting-Cabinets/dp/B01N2WB4JL/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1489266424&sr=8-2&keywords=skat+blast+gun&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=fb05e768b07534cefae29e640853df2b">S-35 Small</a> <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Skat-Blast-Ceramic-Nozzle-Sandblasting/dp/B01N0UZ6T6/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1489261223&sr=8-3&keywords=skat+blast&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=e6a0e19c1b5b02e4e3450b6605f397d6">Small Ceramic</a><br />
10-15 CFM <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Skat-Blast-Trigger-Operated-Sandblasting-Cabinets/dp/B01N8U6NG3/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1489261223&sr=8-4&keywords=skat+blast&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=fbe795fe44d166298aee1174b2d9365f">S-35 Medium</a> <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Skat-Blast-Medium-Ceramic-Sandblasting/dp/B01N3UX22D/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1489255990&sr=8-16&keywords=skat+blast&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=4f8f51a5b8e250f558c66ed0aca03bfa">Medium Ceramic</a> / <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Skat-Blast-Blasters-Sandblasting-Cabinets/dp/B01N9163UJ/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1489255990&sr=8-11&keywords=skat+blast&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=555ffda8692d5bcfa89f3e8d017b5328">Medium Carbide</a><br />
20-25 CFM <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Skat-Blast-Foot-Pedal-Operated-Sandblasting/dp/B01MU32FYM/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1489260801&sr=8-17&keywords=skat+blast&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=3be3b9e103a8d1a9a34efa8c98ed50b6">C-35-S Large</a> <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Skat-Blast-Ceramic-Nozzle-Sandblasting/dp/B01NANBC3V/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1489266758&sr=8-8&keywords=skat+blast+nozzle&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=99b5202f128c2f4bac4ba1e844aed63c">Large Ceramic</a> <br />
25+ CFM <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Skat-Blast-Foot-Pedal-Sandblast-Cabinet/dp/B01NH08KBD/ref=as_li_ss_tl?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01NH08KBD&pd_rd_r=AKG6E4SGDAPES3XSMMAJ&pd_rd_w=Rr7me&pd_rd_wg=GAKnk&psc=1&refRID=AKG6E4SGDAPES3XSMMAJ&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=cf7da74d8728c9aa6749467cd58197e3">High-Volume Gun</a> <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Skat-Blast-Hi-Pro-High-Power/dp/B06WP4YW8G/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1489266828&sr=8-21&keywords=skat+blast+nozzle&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=8bc2d8ff00ced4698a3657f57343eefb">High-Volume Head</a><br />
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I also have a <b><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0007D30DO/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=0b3c16945de6ea53913d178b96934274">Campbell Hausfeld gun</a></b> as a backup gun. It is cheaper but it seems to make the entire sandblasting process take longer. With all things being equal, the Skat Blast gun just finishes jobs quicker than the Campbell Hausfeld gun. The trigger is also much shorter on the Campbell Hausfeld gun so it requires more effort to depress it. After sandblasting for awhile, it is noticeably less comfortable than the Skat Blast gun. That being said, it is still a good gun for the price. It comes with its own media tube so you can use it inside of a blast cabinet or you an stick the tube in a bucket of media and use it anywhere. It also comes with a ceramic tip which lasts much longer than steel tips. However, if you plan on sandblasting on regular intervals, I highly recommend the the Skat Blast gun instead. <br />
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A <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Goplus-Portable-Sandblaster-Abrasive-Blasting/dp/B01MU3H0M9/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1518337296&sr=8-2-fkmr0&keywords=pressure+pot+sandblaster&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=7d716a1bb4bb480a2c18bc68039acc54" target="_blank"><b>pressure pot blaster</b><img alt="" border="0" height="1" hidden="" src="https://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=powcoathecomg-20&l=as2&o=1&a=B006RNWKMK" style="border: medium none; display: none !important; margin: 0px;" width="1" /></a> generally looks like a propane tank with legs. It has a lid on top to pour media into and a smaller valve on the bottom where the media exits and goes to your sandblasting nozzle. The air supply from your compressor actually goes to the tank and to the valve at the bottom. This way the media is pressurized. This way the media is being forced out of that valve at the bottom and then the other air line is forcing that media + air to your sandblast nozzle.<br />
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<a href="https://www.amazon.com/Goplus-Portable-Sandblaster-Abrasive-Blasting/dp/B01MU3H0M9/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1518337296&sr=8-2-fkmr0&keywords=pressure+pot+sandblaster&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=7d716a1bb4bb480a2c18bc68039acc54" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="pressure pot sandblaster" border="0" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sfxs69YjquI/V78z2J59GMI/AAAAAAAACzg/nUIkbTDyOeofkkOchkGKFpZK8RkXprnCACEw/s320/41HTaUy5gFL.jpg" title="" width="320" /></a>A pressure pot blaster is more efficient than a siphon blaster. It uses less air and blasts about 4 times faster than a siphon-fed blaster. If you have a big job to do with a lot of surface area, a pressure pot is the way to go. However, they are more of an "outside" or in a "blasting room" tool. Once the tank runs out of media, you will have to either add new media, or sweep up the media on the ground and pour it back into the tank. If you recycle your media like this, make sure you filter the media somehow. I have a piece of widow screen that I folded over itself to make it filter more finely. A small rock can clog the machine. <br />
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<span style="color: #cc0000;"><span style="font-size: x-large;"><b>Sandblasting Cabinet</b></span></span></h4>
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Now that you understand the types of blasters, there are several environments where you can do your blasting. Blasting is a messy process. It creates lots of dust that will coat an entire garage, it throws media everywhere, and the media that hits tends to sting a little. Blasting can also be dangerous, a powerful blaster can take off skin. Media bouncing back at you can cause damage to your eyes, and the dust can damage your lungs, especially if using sand as your blasting media. So keeping that in mind, you can blast outdoors with some <b><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00442XOKI/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=aabad1ea7a10564f6fd80f9dad9fca33" target="_blank">personal protection equipment</a></b>, you can dedicate an entire room to blasting which will also require protective gear, or you can use a sand blasting cabinet.<br />
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<a href="https://www.amazon.com/Skat-Blast-Sandblast-Sandblasting-Cabinet/dp/B077J85C7Q/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1518337238&sr=8-8&keywords=tp+tools&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=53556cd7afd9bd0e7d9a871e6c0c0121" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="Best sandblasting cabinet: Skat Blast" border="0" data-original-height="500" data-original-width="500" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sHLz3ejEUAQ/Wn_9Zz2VBgI/AAAAAAAADN8/D9Sx1RjJmpYfrsHjyBZ7VoRIAqnFMfpZgCLcBGAs/s320/tp%2Btools%2Bbest%2Bsandblasting%2Bcabinet.jpg" title="best sandblasting cabinet tp tools" width="320" /></a>With a sand blasting cabinet, the blasting process takes place inside a completely enclosed box. There is a window for you to see what your doing and long heavy duty gloves that are sealed to the front of the cabinet. The cabinet has a grate that you will place your items to be blasted on, and below that is an area for the blasting media to fall down into. Blasting cabinets are usually paired with siphon feed guns. The media falls through the grate to the bottom of the rack as your blasting, the media pick up tube is positioned down in the base of the media and the other end connects to your gun. This way you can blast endlessly and your media is constantly recycled. You will need good lighting to see what you are doing and also some type of dust collector. As you are blasting, the media will break down into finer and finer dust which constantly floats around making it very hard to see. The dust collector will suck this fine dust out of the cabinet which increases visibility. There are purpose built dust collectors and there are some DIY methods such as hooking up a shop vac to the cabinet. The easiest method is to buy a <b><a href="https://www.amazon.com/Skat-Blast-Sandblast-Sandblasting-Cabinet/dp/B077J85C7Q/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1518337238&sr=8-8&keywords=tp+tools&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=53556cd7afd9bd0e7d9a871e6c0c0121" target="_blank">quality sandblasting cabinet that comes with a dust collector and lighting</a></b>. The Skat Blast cabinets sold by TP Tools are one of the best cabinets out there. The sandblasting cabinet pictured comes with everything you need to start blasting and it roomy enough to do wheels and other large parts. There are <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Neum%C3%A1tica-Capacidad-Gabinete-Central-neum%C3%A1tica/dp/B01MTR40A4/ref=as_li_ss_tl?dchild=1&keywords=blast+cabinet+40&qid=1590262243&sr=8-3&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=21c7bdca71e1425ca53d2d170b6e02e2&language=en_US" target="_blank"><b>cheaper sandblasting cabinets</b></a> available if you do a little DIY work. The cheaper cabinets usually need sealed up with caulk and some kind of DIY dust collector will need to be implemented. Read how to setup some DIY dust collectors in "<a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2013/07/media-blasting-continued.html" target="_blank"><b>Media Blasting Part II</b></a>" If you have the room in your garage, I recommend a stand alone blast cabinet over the bench top blast cabinet. <br />
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<br />
<br />
<br />
Here is a <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Eastwood-Benchtop-Blast-Cabinet-Replaceable/dp/B07PP8Y16Q/ref=as_li_ss_tl?dchild=1&keywords=blast+cabinet&qid=1590262279&sr=8-3&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=45e571680bc796b78ef61b438a878df2&language=en_US" target="_blank"><b>bench top sandblasting cabinet</b></a>. They are smaller, and don't have the funnel on the bottom that lends to easy media changes. However they can sit on a bench in the garage, taking up less room.<br />
<br />
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<a href="https://www.amazon.com/Eastwood-Benchtop-Blast-Cabinet-Replaceable/dp/B07PP8Y16Q/ref=as_li_ss_tl?dchild=1&keywords=blast+cabinet&qid=1590262279&sr=8-3&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=45e571680bc796b78ef61b438a878df2&language=en_US"><img alt="https://www.amazon.com/Eastwood-Benchtop-Blast-Cabinet-Replaceable/dp/B07PP8Y16Q/ref=as_li_ss_tl?dchild=1&keywords=blast+cabinet&qid=1590262279&sr=8-3&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=45e571680bc796b78ef61b438a878df2&language=en_US" border="0" data-original-height="433" data-original-width="472" height="366" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PCnBCo3cAF0/Xsl6YdRgE-I/AAAAAAAAHQY/RcYv3jPhYVcJ0_ZqGmiNOmfwdZKFsZFfwCNcBGAsYHQ/s400/eastwood%2Bbenchtop%2Bsandblasting%2Bcabinet.jpg" title="eastwood benchtop sandblasting cabinet powder coating prep" width="400" /></a></div>
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<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<h4>
<span style="color: #cc0000;"><b><span style="font-size: x-large;">The best media for sandblasting is not sand</span></b></span></h4>
</div>
<br />
<br />
There are many type of media to choose from when blasting. Having the ability to sandblast opens up a lot of options in the garage, not just for powder coating. For now, I will talk about the type of media that you want to use for powder coating prep. <br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000AXAUQ/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=23579c56e17c9cea6a586bec9f15b157" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating sand blasting media black diamond" border="0" height="200" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Ha2s8BwGvnM/V78z2AHgAQI/AAAAAAAACzk/m3nSz3AgLPM5-YriutAiGxTEVva6ausSQCEw/s200/41-wuCvV2KL.jpg" title="" width="200" /></a><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000AXAUQ/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=74cc59cf8d1c0e1fe8e2e1ffcfe31505" target="_blank"><b>Coal slag</b></a>: This media is very cheap, it leaves a good profile, and it lasts a pretty long time. It is great at stripping paint and rust very fast. Examples of coal slag is the popular brand: Black Diamond, its sold at Tractor Supply Company. 50lbs is about $7. <br />
<br />
<b><a href="https://www.amazon.com/ALUMINUM-OXIDE-100-Abrasive-BLASTING/dp/B00UZWERWA/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1518337665&sr=8-6&keywords=aluminum+oxide+blasting+media&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=9989d5d11a39fc8a78982cec977a5c18">Aluminum Oxide</a></b>: This is a very aggressive media that easily removes rust, paint, and is more efficient at removing powder coat than the coal slag. It is pricier, but it lasts much longer. There is also much less dust produced with aluminum oxide than with coal slag. This leaves a great profile in a steel or iron part to be powder coated. If you are doing any ceramic coating, aluminum oxide media is required to achieve the correct surface profile. Keep in mind that because this is can be a more aggressive blasting media, that it can leave too much of a profile on softer metals such as aluminum. If the profile is too heavy, it may be visible through the powder coating finish, giving it a grainy appearance. Lowering the air pressure and keeping the sandblasting gun further away from the surface of the part will help with this.<br />
<br />
<b>Sand</b>: Sand is the cheapest but I never recommend using sand. You can get a bag of play sand from Home Depot for next to nothing. However, sand is very dusty, making it almost impossible to see in the cabinet. Sand also produces silica dust when blasting which can severely damage your lungs even when using a cabinet. The only safe way to use sand is with a <b><a href="https://www.amazon.com/Breathecool-Supplied-Fresh-Respirator-System/dp/B00GAFDBJG/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1468389802&sr=8-2&keywords=supplied+air+system&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=862365f807c49e4095e9e69958d619cb" target="_blank">supplied air breathing system</a></b>. <br />
<br />
To continue reading about media blasting, click here: <b><a href="http://powdercoatguide.blogspot.com/2013/07/media-blasting-continued.html">Media Blasting Part II</a></b><br />
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<script type="text/javascript">var addthis_config = {"data_track_addressbar":true};</script> <script src="//s7.addthis.com/js/300/addthis_widget.js#pubid=ra-521c315825184b6b" type="text/javascript"></script> <!-- AddThis Button END -->PowderCoatGuidehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12345212251907477269noreply@blogger.com21tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6576346347573188227.post-80097764577826029142012-12-03T21:43:00.007-08:002020-10-11T13:18:31.531-07:00How to Properly Ground Powder Coated Parts with a Dedicated Ground Rod<div style="text-align: left;">
<h2>
<b><span style="font-size: x-large;">Improve the attraction of powder to your parts while powder
coating.</span></b>
</h2>
</div>
If you are powder coating a metal part, it must be grounded. The ground is what
attracts the powder to the part. The better the ground, the more efficient your
powder coating gun can work, especially when spraying multiple coats or
intricate parts. Often a
<a href="http://powdercoatguide.blogspot.com/2012/11/getting-into-powder-coating-equipment.html">powder coating gun</a>
or the guns control box will come with a small 18-gauge ground wire and a mini
alligator clip that you can connect to your part to ground it. I will call this
the "stock" ground. The stock ground continues through the control box, through
the small gauge wire to plug into a wall outlet, and then finally reaches ground
after it travels through your buildings electrical. This is not a sufficient
ground for proper powder coating. No matter how good of gun you have, you need
to install a DEDICATED GROUNDING ROD. <br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-HdsAt5HHttM/VZRVj7E5LmI/AAAAAAAACFI/K5-vThN__J8/s1600/grounding%2Brod.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Powder Coat grounding rod" border="0" height="640" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-HdsAt5HHttM/VZRVj7E5LmI/AAAAAAAACFI/K5-vThN__J8/s640/grounding%2Brod.jpg" title="Powder Coat grounding rod" width="640" /></a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div>
<h3 style="text-align: center;">
<a name='more'></a>
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</h3>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<h2>
<b><span style="font-size: x-large;">What are the advantages of using a grounding rod when powder coating?
</span></b>
</h2>
</div>
<h3>
<br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Faraday Cage Areas:</b></span>
</h3>
<br />
Using a ground rod helps reduce the issues associated with Faraday cage areas.
Faraday cage areas are areas of a part that are electrically shielded due to the
geometry of the part. These areas are usually located in recesses or tight
corners. You will notice as you powder coat, especially a more intricate part,
that no matter how much powder you spray, some areas of the part remain
uncoated. All of the powder is instead being attracted to the larger, more open
surfaces adjacent to these areas. This results in an uneven coating with too
much powder on the large areas, and bare spots in the tight areas, as you can
see on the wheel below. Having a proper ground like the grounding rod will
significantly reduce these problem areas and allow these areas to attract the
powder more easily.<br />
<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jjSYCP9F3_o/XstQ4kfhzOI/AAAAAAAAHXw/Qm_USoOBm0EIgsV64cTaQCj6KQ1Kz6rNgCNcBGAsYHQ/s1600/faraday%2Bcage%2Barea%2B2.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="562" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jjSYCP9F3_o/XstQ4kfhzOI/AAAAAAAAHXw/Qm_USoOBm0EIgsV64cTaQCj6KQ1Kz6rNgCNcBGAsYHQ/s640/faraday%2Bcage%2Barea%2B2.jpg" width="478" /></a>
</div>
<br />
The grounding rod will help significantly, but if you are using a hobbyist-level
powder coating gun, it will not cure it 100%. There are tricks that you can do
to further reduce the impact of Faraday cage areas, but the most reliable method
is using a professional-level powder coating gun. <br />
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<h3>
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Multiple Coats: </span></b>
</h3>
<br />
After spraying the first coat of powder and partially-curing it, you may want to
apply another coat after this, whether it be clear, a translucent, or any other
subsequent coat. This is another situation where a grounding rod will help. That
first coat of powder acts as an electrical insulator covering the entire part.
It is insulating the ground which is responsible for dissipating the charge of
the powder. When spraying the next coat, if the charge is not being dissipated
to ground, a buildup of charge will occur on the part, which will actually repel
the powder. Without a sufficient ground, it will seem like nearly your entire
part is behaving like a Faraday cage. <br />
<br />
The proper ground that is provided by the grounding rod will allow more charge
to dissipate through previous coats, making subsequent coats easier to apply.
This will not be adequately accomplished by the small ground wire that is
packaged with many powder coating guns. Mutli-coats are much easier after a
properly installed grounding rod is connected to your part.<br />
<br />
However, just as with the Faraday cage areas, a grounding rod can only improve
multi-coats so much. With most hobbyist guns (less than $200) and a properly
installed grounding rod, you will be able to apply two or three coats with
somewhat minimal issues. Applying more coats than this will require a more
expensive powder coating gun.<br />
<br />
<br />
<h3>
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Reduced Powder Waste:</span></b>
</h3>
<br />
With a correctly installed grounding rod, more powder from your gun will be
attracted to your part instead of ending up on the floor. This increased
transfer efficiency results in less money spent on powder and a cleaner and
safer shop/garage. <br />
<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<h2>
<b><span style="font-size: x-large;">What is a Grounding Rod?</span></b>
</h2>
</div>
<br />
A ground rod is a long copper coated rod that gets driven into the ground. The
sizes vary, but for the powder coating application, I recommend the length of
the ground rod be at least 8 feet (10 feet would be better) and 3/4 inch
diameter. If you live in a warmer area, your local hardware stores may only
carry 5/8 inch x 8 feet ground rods, in which case you may have to spend a
little more and buy it at
<a href="https://www.grainger.com/product/2KXL5?cm_mmc=PPC:+Google+PLA">Grainger</a>. If you live in a colder area, they can be purchased at your local Home Depot
or Lowe's for about $35:<b> </b><a href="https://www.lowes.com/pd/Galvan-0-625-in-x-8-ft-Copper-Grounding-Rods/3446270">3/4 in. x 10 ft. Ground Rod at Home Depot</a>.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<h2 style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-large;"><b>Ground Rod Installation </b></span>
</h2>
<br />
The ground rod gets hammered into the ground almost entirely. This can either be
done on a ladder with a sledge hammer and a bit of effort, or if you already
have or want an
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-2715-20-Fuel-Rotary-Hammer/dp/B00OTXQW2O/ref=as_li_ss_tl?dchild=1&keywords=hammer+drill+sds+plus&qid=1590386213&sr=8-10&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=4151b587b87ace2ff2a82eea03350022&language=en_US">SDS rotary hammer</a>, you can make quick work of it with a
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/SDS-Plus-Diameter-Adapter-Milwaukee-Hammers/dp/B07QPGZS8K/ref=as_li_ss_tl?dchild=1&keywords=ground+rod+driver+bit&qid=1590387329&sr=8-2&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=0e736ff1e1f2b6f40d1aba3ca466a138&language=en_US">ground rod driver bit</a>. You want to leave about 6 inches of the rod protruding above the ground so
you can clamp the wire to it. The other end of the ground wire will connect to
your parts while they are being coated, either directly or through the use of
racks and hooks. For the least amount of resistance to ground, and therefore the
best powder coating transfer efficiency, install the ground rod as close as you
possibly can to your powder coating area. <br />
<br />
If you plan on powder coating in your garage or shop, you can install the
grounding rod right through your floor for the shortest possible distance to
your powder coating area. Simply drill a hole in your garage floor with a
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-HC2163-SDS-plus-Bulldog-Rotary/dp/B001AHOV3Y/ref=as_li_ss_tl?dchild=1&keywords=sds++bit+1+inch&qid=1590387839&sr=8-1&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=550408eff831e2f9dde3035ae4f2e7b8&language=en_US">masonry bit</a>
and a
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-2715-20-Fuel-Rotary-Hammer/dp/B00OTXQW2O/ref=as_li_ss_tl?dchild=1&keywords=hammer+drill+sds+plus&qid=1590386213&sr=8-10&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=f0f35de499e6a25f59dbc318b91561b4&language=en_US">SDS+ rotary hammer</a>, and install the grounding rod through the garage floor down into the ground
below. Be mindful of any plumbing or electrical lines that may run underneath
the floor before doing so. Also make sure to size your masonry bit a little
larger than the ground rod so that you don't scrape all the copper coating off
as you drive it down through the concrete. If you are moving and need to get rid
of the grounding rod sticking through the floor, simply pound it the rest of the
way down and fill the hole up with some
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/Red-Devil-0644-Concrete-Patch/dp/B0058I30KG/ref=as_li_ss_tl?dchild=1&keywords=concrete+patch&qid=1590384205&sr=8-3&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=a94583ca9505d340ee15560397c70702&language=en_US">concrete patch</a>. Here are a couple of examples of this:<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IC26dZNl59c/XstVIdhD6II/AAAAAAAAHYA/vDM75fEDkWAL1fk1nEhL84uaYQ7zuUYtACNcBGAsYHQ/s1600/Ground%2Brod%2Bin%2Bconcrete%2B%25281%2529.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="655" data-original-width="603" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IC26dZNl59c/XstVIdhD6II/AAAAAAAAHYA/vDM75fEDkWAL1fk1nEhL84uaYQ7zuUYtACNcBGAsYHQ/s640/Ground%2Brod%2Bin%2Bconcrete%2B%25281%2529.jpg" width="588" /></a>
</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dRR-qinWRBM/XstVIRo0ryI/AAAAAAAAHX8/V_dcppkvU80cBW60O-1SuzdLDWLr9jOXgCNcBGAsYHQ/s1600/Ground%2Brod%2Bin%2Bconcrete%2B%25282%2529.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1202" data-original-width="641" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dRR-qinWRBM/XstVIRo0ryI/AAAAAAAAHX8/V_dcppkvU80cBW60O-1SuzdLDWLr9jOXgCNcBGAsYHQ/s640/Ground%2Brod%2Bin%2Bconcrete%2B%25282%2529.jpg" width="340" /></a>
</div>
<br />
<br />
A
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005GDFXJ4/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=74226634d6632da04a9551002255e57f&language=en_US">ground rod clamp</a>
like either of the ones shown below allow you to secure the ground wire to the
grounding rod. You will also need a length of wire to connect your grounding rod
to where you hang your parts. US electrical codes specify that the wire
connecting a ground rod is 6-gauge or 8-gauge solid or stranded copper wire. You
can use larger diameter copper wire if you prefer, but don't go smaller than
8-gauge The choice between solid or stranded won't make that much of a
difference as long as the remainder of the ground rod system is setup correctly.
Stranded wire is more flexible than solid, and it is capable of carrying higher
current. Solid wire has less resistance than stranded wire, and less resistance
is more important than current-carrying ability when it comes to dissipating the
charge from powder coated parts. However, many people swear by solid and just as
many swear by stranded, so I would suggest using whatever your personal
preference is, or whatever is most readily available to you at the best
price.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZRM3mkrh7mc/Xst4pzgqZjI/AAAAAAAAHYY/dzbygFebypQIh53chjdDnE7TSZRokRo_QCNcBGAsYHQ/s1600/ground%2Brod%2Bwire.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="528" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZRM3mkrh7mc/Xst4pzgqZjI/AAAAAAAAHYY/dzbygFebypQIh53chjdDnE7TSZRokRo_QCNcBGAsYHQ/s640/ground%2Brod%2Bwire.jpg" width="352" /></a>
</div>
<br />
<br />
Both
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/Cerrowire-050-2200BR-50-Feet-Gauge-Copper/dp/B01LORGH86/ref=as_li_ss_tl?dchild=1&keywords=bare+6+awg+copper+wire&qid=1590392029&sr=8-3&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=8383ec3ee9497eeef071e576e199abfe&language=en_US">bare copper</a>
and
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/Gauge-Stranded-Green-Copper-Machine/dp/B07TC7H9RC/ref=as_li_ss_tl?dchild=1&keywords=6+awg+thhn+wire+green&qid=1590390975&sr=8-11&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=bfe3dedc86cf1e3b54ef5fe550148f63&language=en_US">insulated THHN wire</a>
will work fine to connect your ground rod to your parts. <br />
It is really another personal preference based on what you would prefer to
install, as both meet US electrical codes and are sufficient for powder coating.
If you do decide to use an insulated wire, I would recommend using green to
satisfy electrical codes (in the US). You can purchase this type of wire at your
local hardware store, either by the roll or by-the-foot. Since you should have a
very short run between the ground rod and powder coating area, by-the-foot will
likely be the cheapest option.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005GDFXJ4/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=2b96ddda9f5f21cba45e613bc316abd0" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Powder coat dedicated grounding rod clamp" border="0" height="320" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-B9hMxOdpVWk/V787EnHMIxI/AAAAAAAACz8/VmoiFtjlgOMDi_OwC_tE8HkNOzUnF4VOgCLcB/s320/81WV9uiC35L._SL1500_.jpg" title="" width="275" /> </a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br />
</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div>
<img alt="" border="0" height="1" hidden="" src="https://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=powcoathecomg-20&l=as2&o=1&a=B005GDFXJ4" style="border: medium none; display: none; margin: 0px;" width="1" /><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/Morris-90639-Direct-Burial-8-Inch-3/dp/B005BH8OFA/ref=as_li_ss_tl?dchild=1&keywords=3/4+ground+rod+clamp+copper+approved&qid=1590392580&sr=8-3&th=1&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=40cc48e22f6e4e646e8cd48a04abfbde&language=en_US"><img alt="https://www.amazon.com/Morris-90639-Direct-Burial-8-Inch-3/dp/B005BH8OFA/ref=as_li_ss_tl?dchild=1&keywords=3/4+ground+rod+clamp+copper+approved&qid=1590392580&sr=8-3&th=1&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=40cc48e22f6e4e646e8cd48a04abfbde&language=en_US" border="0" data-original-height="814" data-original-width="1500" height="173" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SRYGfa2TVv8/Xst4G2vl0NI/AAAAAAAAHYQ/Fgaoz9DP-3ET0j3LisUEbSB0LeG4oCPowCNcBGAsYHQ/s320/dedicated%2Bground%2Brod%2Bclamp.jpg" title="dedicated ground rod acorn clamp" width="320" /></a>
</div>
<br />
<br />
<h2>
<span style="font-size: x-large;"><b> </b></span>
</h2>
<h2 style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-large;"><b>Completing the Connection from Ground Rod to Part</b></span>
</h2>
<br />
You have the ground rod installed, and the ground wire clamped to it. Now you
need to determine how you would like to complete connection to you parts. There
are different methods for doing this depending on if you powder coat on a
rolling rack, a stationary rack, in a spray booth, or another method.<br />
<br />
<h3>
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Connecting a Powder Coating Rack to Ground Rod
</span></b>
</h3>
<br />
If you have a large powder coating oven, you most likely will also have a
rolling rack that you roll into the oven. If you powder coat your parts on the
rack itself, whether its in a spray booth or not, the most common method of
grounding is to connect the ground wire to the rack. The path to ground will
travel from the part to a hook, then the hook to the rack, and from the rack to
the ground wire. This means that the ground wire will need to be easily
removable from the rack so that it can remain mobile. This can probably be
accomplished many different ways but here are a couple of options.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-etPYfaEF4Io/XsuYX5T6g1I/AAAAAAAAHY8/NR29PSKZMWUAN31xY7Ef8M9i1eMU5VRegCNcBGAsYHQ/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Bon%2Brack.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1200" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-etPYfaEF4Io/XsuYX5T6g1I/AAAAAAAAHY8/NR29PSKZMWUAN31xY7Ef8M9i1eMU5VRegCNcBGAsYHQ/s640/powder%2Bcoating%2Bon%2Brack.jpg" width="640" /></a>
</div>
<br />
<br />
You can use a spring loaded clamp such as a
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/Welding-Ground-Clamp-Lead-Assembly/dp/B07D4153JB/ref=as_li_ss_tl?dchild=1&keywords=welding+ground+clamp+with+cable&qid=1590398172&sr=8-9&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=eff3b6480b4866e209cba51d716d66c7&language=en_US">welding ground clamp</a>
or a
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/TOPDC-Copper-Jumper-Cables-Booster/dp/B01K17TMFK/ref=as_li_ss_tl?dchild=1&keywords=jumper+cable+copper&qid=1590398407&refinements=p_85:2470955011&rnid=2470954011&rps=1&sr=8-5&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=554e18f881e5f104f1242657be359766&language=en_US">battery jumper cable</a>
and clip it onto your rack before coating. Both of these options have been
tested with good results. See the picture below for an example, just make sure
to use a higher quality clamp.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WMC6TRBvSek/XsuVTyfo3cI/AAAAAAAAHYw/ckW-EJPKymcLIPBCyFPLWhKpAEAfFVK3ACNcBGAsYHQ/s1600/Clamp-And-Copper-Grounding-Rod-For-Powder-Coating.jpg"><img border="0" data-original-height="886" data-original-width="735" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WMC6TRBvSek/XsuVTyfo3cI/AAAAAAAAHYw/ckW-EJPKymcLIPBCyFPLWhKpAEAfFVK3ACNcBGAsYHQ/s320/Clamp-And-Copper-Grounding-Rod-For-Powder-Coating.jpg" width="331" /></a>
</div>
<br />
If you would prefer a more solid connection, you can crimp a
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/SELTERM-Gauge-Copper-Welding-Eyelet/dp/B085BNB3F6/ref=as_li_ss_tl?dchild=1&keywords=copper+ring+terminal+6-gauge+heavy+duty&qid=1590398831&sr=8-5&th=1&psc=1&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=18998e1a65e6b96315121c1994af4634&language=en_US">wire lug</a>
to the end of the ground wire connected to the grounding rod, and then fasten
the lug to the rack using a bolt (or weld a stud to the rack) and wingnut. This
crimp-on lug would require that you used stranded wire for the ground wire.
While more secure, it is a little less convenient because you have to spin off
the wing nut every time the rack needs moved.<br />
<br />
Those are just a couple of options that you can do to connect the ground rod to
the rack. The most important thing to keep in mind, whatever solution you decide
on, is that there needs to be good contact between the ground wire, rack, and
parts. Use as few connections to reduce resistance and failure points. Also,
make sure that the contact points between every connection is clean bare metal
each time you powder coat. Powder build up on the rack or
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/Powder-Coating-Metal-Hooks-120/dp/B00MG7FZO6/ref=as_li_ss_tl?dchild=1&keywords=powder+coating+hooks&qid=1590400976&sr=8-5&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=7351ccae24fb1cb4a44de9f7d2577e27&language=en_US">part hanging hooks</a>
can reduce or completely block the path to ground. <br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br />
</div>
<br />
<h3>
<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Grounding Parts in a Spray Booth</b></span>
</h3>
<br />
If you hang your parts in a spray booth to powder coat or you just use a
stationary rack, the tried-and-true method of connecting parts to the ground rod
is by using another ground rod or even a copper pipe if you're not hanging
anything too heavy. This would be done by mounting a shorter grounding rod
horizontally near the top of the booth. You can use the same type of ground rod
clamp on this that you used for the in-ground grounding rod to attach the ground
wire. Then parts are simply hung on the ground rod inside the spray booth when
powder coating. This is a very clean setup that has a minimal amount of
connections. This method is shown in the two spray booths below.<br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-G8sQCcI1hvI/XsufOjswU6I/AAAAAAAAHZQ/bfOKbi1jGtUlO1VAMG_R2qRbyIxoZM0fwCNcBGAsYHQ/s1600/powder%2Bcoat%2Bsmall%2Bspray%2Bbooth%2B%25282%2529.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="505" data-original-width="1058" height="304" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-G8sQCcI1hvI/XsufOjswU6I/AAAAAAAAHZQ/bfOKbi1jGtUlO1VAMG_R2qRbyIxoZM0fwCNcBGAsYHQ/s640/powder%2Bcoat%2Bsmall%2Bspray%2Bbooth%2B%25282%2529.jpg" width="640" /></a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div>
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4RIsF6ngem0/XsunxXNFDcI/AAAAAAAAHZ4/I-YsUlpdDQQo5z3uUn-RBknEmksRE_jiQCNcBGAsYHQ/s1600/powder%2Bcoat%2Bbooth%2Bground%2Bconnection%2B2%2B%25283%2529.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="658" data-original-width="582" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4RIsF6ngem0/XsunxXNFDcI/AAAAAAAAHZ4/I-YsUlpdDQQo5z3uUn-RBknEmksRE_jiQCNcBGAsYHQ/s640/powder%2Bcoat%2Bbooth%2Bground%2Bconnection%2B2%2B%25283%2529.jpg" width="564" /></a>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">
Clamping ground wire from ground rod to spray booth hanging rod. This
clamp can be installed on the outside of the spray booth wall to prevent
powder build up.
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br />
</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JsC0XzPaQFE/XsukdYOGCjI/AAAAAAAAHZc/lKu3klgn4F07DnNeUCTw50Z1BQqXkEg0QCNcBGAsYHQ/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Bspray%2Bbooth%2B3%2B%25282%2529.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="612" data-original-width="455" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JsC0XzPaQFE/XsukdYOGCjI/AAAAAAAAHZc/lKu3klgn4F07DnNeUCTw50Z1BQqXkEg0QCNcBGAsYHQ/s640/powder%2Bcoating%2Bspray%2Bbooth%2B3%2B%25282%2529.jpg" width="474" /></a>
</div>
<br />
A very helpful item to add to this type of setup is a
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/Rotating-Painting-Cerakote-High-Finishing/dp/B07FZ8PNLX/ref=as_li_ss_tl?dchild=1&keywords=powder+coating+hooks&qid=1590404233&sr=8-3&th=1&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=673a85a2a189c043120ac88a0dbdc88c&language=en_US">swivel powder coating hook</a>. This hooks onto the bar and has a swivel base that you would then hook your
standard part hook from. This allows you to rotate the part while coating so you
can spray all sides. It does add some extra connection points in the ground
path, but these hooks are specifically made for powder coating so they are
designed to maintain the ground path. It is still always smart to check the
resistance with a meter to make sure. These should stay in your spray
booth and never be placed in the oven. You can clean uncured powder off of them
very easily with a blast of compressed air.<br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-F5D6n5coxaI/XsumAN3O-HI/AAAAAAAAHZo/7mnrT0ldFT8iccwkgRm3BODOHPmJxsxXwCNcBGAsYHQ/s1600/swivel%2Bpowder%2Bcoating%2Bhook%2Blow%2Bresistane%2Bground.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1500" data-original-width="1216" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-F5D6n5coxaI/XsumAN3O-HI/AAAAAAAAHZo/7mnrT0ldFT8iccwkgRm3BODOHPmJxsxXwCNcBGAsYHQ/s400/swivel%2Bpowder%2Bcoating%2Bhook%2Blow%2Bresistane%2Bground.jpg" width="323" /></a>
</div>
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-E9mJ2D77Ra0/XsuoQOEO18I/AAAAAAAAHaE/AMdS5MV7O5MYa89NEZv_6rY23pH5RtnFQCNcBGAsYHQ/s1600/powder%2Bcoat%2Bswivel%2Bhook%2B%25282%2529.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating on swivel hook in spray booth" border="0" data-original-height="604" data-original-width="299" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-E9mJ2D77Ra0/XsuoQOEO18I/AAAAAAAAHaE/AMdS5MV7O5MYa89NEZv_6rY23pH5RtnFQCNcBGAsYHQ/s1600/powder%2Bcoat%2Bswivel%2Bhook%2B%25282%2529.jpg" title="powder coating on swivel hook in spray booth" /></a>
</div>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<h3>
<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Ground Parts on a Stationary Rack</b></span>
</h3>
<br />
Many new powder coaters and hobbyists will setup a make-shift rack to powder
coat in the corner of the garage, or outside the garage door. This isn't ideal
but because the part is open to contaminants and the powder is not contained,
but its workable if you're just starting out. My first powder coating rack is
shown below. It was setup as cheaply as possible and with as few connections as
possible. I soldered the ground rod coming from the dedicated grounding rod
directly to the hanging hook. This setup, while crude, was a noticeable
improvement over the stock ground that came from the Craftsman powder coating
gun I started out with. This setup would be easy to replicate with a
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/Rotating-Painting-Cerakote-High-Finishing/dp/B07FZ8PNLX/ref=as_li_ss_tl?dchild=1&keywords=powder+coating+hooks&qid=1590404233&sr=8-3&th=1&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=673a85a2a189c043120ac88a0dbdc88c&language=en_US">swivel hook</a>
instead of a fixed hook so that you don't have to walk around the rack as you
are coating. <br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Fph_HmmuyA8/UMBejWErQkI/AAAAAAAAA7w/uEhg2sT7OlMfU_2B-zYAUxK-a6CTVigPwCPcBGAYYCw/s1600/rack.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="711" data-original-width="533" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Fph_HmmuyA8/UMBejWErQkI/AAAAAAAAA7w/uEhg2sT7OlMfU_2B-zYAUxK-a6CTVigPwCPcBGAYYCw/s640/rack.png" width="478" /></a>
</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-N77rER7Hgj0/UMBfUyQmm5I/AAAAAAAAA78/Y-PwyaQbe3YPqP2PakH1PB7kG8Nd-LRPgCPcBGAYYCw/s1600/rack%2Bcloseup.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="533" data-original-width="711" height="478" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-N77rER7Hgj0/UMBfUyQmm5I/AAAAAAAAA78/Y-PwyaQbe3YPqP2PakH1PB7kG8Nd-LRPgCPcBGAYYCw/s640/rack%2Bcloseup.png" width="640" /></a>
</div>
<br />
</div>
<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<h2>
<span style="font-size: x-large;"><b>Improving the Dedicated Grounding Rod Performance</b></span>
</h2>
</div>
<br />
Following the recommendations in this article will allow most people to setup a
very reliable ground. However, there are some cases where more can be done to
improve the dedicated ground rod system even more.<br />
<br />
A ground rod is able to dissipate charge better when installed in moist ground.
If your setup allows for it, you can possibly improve the ground more by placing
the ground rod next to a rain gutter, the drip line from an AC condenser, or any
area where the soil remains wet.<br />
<br />
Some climates have very dry or sandy soils that will significantly increase the
resistance between the ground rod and the ground and reduce its performance.
<a href="https://assets.tequipment.net/assets/3/7/GroundResistanceTesting.pdf">Tests</a>
can be done to determine the resistivity of your soil so you can better
determine how to overcome the issue. You can also determine what steps were
taken when your building's electrical ground rods were installed so you can
mimic the setup for your powder coating ground rod. You can also try contacting
the relevant department in your city, or even your power company to see if they
can give you advice on this issue. <br />
<br />
A common first step to try to resolve this issue is by adding an additional
ground rod to increase the available surface area to dissipate charge to the
ground. Using the largest grounding rods available, they should be places at
least 6 feet apart, but if you're using 10 ft ground rods, then 10 feet apart
would be ideal. The two rods each need to have their own
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/Morris-90638-Direct-Burial-Ground/dp/B005BH8NTC/ref=as_li_ss_tl?dchild=1&keywords=ground+rod+clamp+direct+burial&qid=1590409686&sr=8-1&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=64e71a4d8ff1d2f4d0808cc355c63595&language=en_US">clamp</a>, they need to be wired together, and then you would run your grounding wire to
your coating area from one of them. <br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HIOL1Qsqf0c/Xsu4aFBt7OI/AAAAAAAAHaQ/-otufV7bnSM4jl3KZnIbobf1rJu5tfnWACNcBGAsYHQ/s1600/two%2Bgrounding%2Brods%2Bpowder%2Bcoating.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="423" data-original-width="378" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HIOL1Qsqf0c/Xsu4aFBt7OI/AAAAAAAAHaQ/-otufV7bnSM4jl3KZnIbobf1rJu5tfnWACNcBGAsYHQ/s1600/two%2Bgrounding%2Brods%2Bpowder%2Bcoating.png" /></a>
</div>
<br />
<h2 style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-large;">With the Dedicated Ground Rod Set Up, It is Time to Test</span>
</h2>
<br />
From a safety standpoint, the resistance from the ground rod to a grounded part
should not exceed 1 Megaohm (10^6 Ω or 1,000,000 Ω). From a powder coating
performance standpoint, you want the resistance to be as close as possible to 0
Ω. The correct tool to accurately measure the resistance from ground rod to part
is a
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-ET600-Megohmmeter-Insulation/dp/B07ZZX5TK8/ref=as_li_ss_tl?dchild=1&keywords=megohmeter+fluke&qid=1590410702&sr=8-1&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=de173a7bf5dbf1c67b5185baf4c29464&language=en_US">Megohmmeter</a>. <br />
<br />
<br />
Now that you know how to set up a proper dedicated grounding rod, its time to
set one up yourself. It is worth it! I noticed improvements immediately.
Second coats sprayed like they were the first coat and Faraday cage areas were
minimized to only the tightest areas.
PowderCoatGuidehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12345212251907477269noreply@blogger.com69tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6576346347573188227.post-42244075118701898132012-12-03T19:29:00.005-08:002020-10-11T13:13:31.460-07:00Properly Curing Powder Coat with an Infrared ThermometerTo achieve a high quality and durable powder coated finish, knowing the surface temperature of parts while they are curing in the oven is essential. To fully realize all of the benefits of powder coating, the powder must be cured at the specified temperature for the specified amount of time. The most universal method of checking the part surface temperature while it is in the oven is with a non-contact infrared thermometer, AKA an IR thermometer or IR temp gun. This article will explain why you need to measure part temperatures, how to use an infrared thermometer correctly in your powder coating process, and the best IR thermometers for the job.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008EW837S/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=01953da8e89f9d60c54b5ffe4ff54217" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating part metal temp ir thermometer" border="0" height="400" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-iS5mB4rBqAw/V788lzunkDI/AAAAAAAAC0I/Sz79fyEZtjoTAHtsQzNb1bt-TOHOoi_sgCLcB/s400/61yBqbWi7XL._SL1500_.jpg" title="" width="277" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
An infrared thermometer can measure the temperature of an objects surface without actually making any contact with it. Very affordable models exist for hobbyist powder coaters and their are more feature-rich options for professionals. They are equipped with a laser pointer to help you aim at the intended area, and they are able to display the temperature in both Fahrenheit and Celsius. These tools make it very easy to quickly check the temperature of powder coated parts while they are curing in the oven. <br />
<a name='more'></a>
<p><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i><span style="color: #666666;"><span></span>Powdercoatguide.com is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to amazon.com. </span></i> </span></span></p>
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<h2 style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-large;">Correct Part Temperature is Vital for Durable Powder Coating!</span></h2>
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Every powder coating powder will specify a certain curing schedule. The curing schedule specifies the temperature that the entire part surface must be maintained at and how long it must be maintained. These curing schedules are specified by the manufacture of the powder to provide the best properties once fully cured. Without a way to accurately measure the part temperature, it is impossible to satisfy the specified cure schedule, resulting in <b>an undercured</b> or <b>overcured</b> powder coat finish. <br />
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<h3>
<span style="font-size: large;">Undercuring Powder Coat</span></h3>
Undercuring, or underbaking, occurs when a powder coated part is cured for too little time, at too low of a temperature, or some combination of the two. This is a very common occurrence among new powder coaters that do not realize that the temperature on the oven display is not an accurate representation of the temperature of the part, and they tend to start the cure timer as soon as the part goes in the oven. This is not the proper curing procedure almost always result in an undercured part. An undercured part will likely display some or all of the following deficiencies:<br />
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<ul>
<li><b>Brittleness:</b> Non-flexible powder coat that chips or cracks easily</li>
<li><b>Poor Chemical Resistance</b>: Mild chemicals cause discoloration</li>
<li><b>Poor UV Light Resistance:</b> Color will fade or chalk outdoors</li>
<li><b>Poor Corrosion Resistance:</b> Powder does not sufficiently protect part from the elements </li>
<li><b>Incorrect Appearance</b>: Color, gloss, or texture not accurate </li>
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Following the procedures in the remainder of this article will help to make sure that you do not undercure your parts. However, a simple test to ensure that a part is not undercured after it has come out of the oven, is a <b>M.E.K. swab test</b>.<br />
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The M.E.K. (Methyl Ethyl Ketone) swab test, sometimes called "Polymerisation Test", involves swabbing a <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Grip-Industrial-Assortment-Electrical-Cleaning/dp/B079J64P7B/ref=as_li_ss_tl?dchild=1&keywords=industrial+cotton+swab&qid=1588242130&refinements=p_85:2470955011&rnid=2470954011&rps=1&sr=8-2&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=0cc91081dd8e1075f4c7cb0424428e3f&language=en_US">cotton swab</a> soaked in <a href="http://www.kleanstrip.com/product/m.e.k.-methyl-ethyl-ketone">M.E.K. solvent</a> on a powder coated part after it has been removed from the oven and allowed to reach room temperature. The swab should be lightly rubbed back and forth over one spot of the powder coat 20 times in each direction. If the powder is undercured, you will begin to see significant color removal, sometimes even to the point that bare metal is showing once the test is completed. Other symptoms of undercured powder is if the powder seems very soft or dull after the test, especially if it can then be easily chipped off with a fingernail. It is normal for some powder chemistries such as Hybrids to slightly lose some gloss during the M.E.K. test so it should be done in an inconspicuous area or on a test part. The availability of M.E.K. is becoming more and more limited but it can still be found at Ace Hardware, marine stores, and is available online. M.E.K. is an industrial solvent so be sure to follow all safety precautions listed for the product you purchase.<br />
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<h3>
<span style="font-size: large;">Overcuring Powder Coat</span></h3>
Overcuring, or overbaking, occurs when a powder coated part is cured for too much time, at too high of a temperature, or some combination of the two. Forgetting to set the oven timer is the most common cause of this issue. Most powders are specified as "Overbake Stable", which means that even if the part is left in the oven a little too long, its properties will not be affected. Powder coaters tend to lean more on the side of overbaking for a couple of minutes to ensure that they are not undercuring, and as long as the powder is overbake stable, this is not an issue. An overcured part will some or all of the following deficiencies:<br />
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<ul>
<li>Incorrect Appearance: Colors with yellow or brown tints, reduced gloss, incorrect texture</li>
<li>Adhesion Failure: Powder lifts off of part in sheets</li>
</ul>
An overcured part can not be fixed as the powder coat is chemically damaged. It must be stripped back to bare metal and re-coated.<br />
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<h2 style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-large;">How to read the Temperature of a Part in the Oven</span></h2>
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Lets learn how to use this tool. The simplest way is to simply set the temp on your oven, and when you see that your oven is up to temp, that is when you can start checking with the IR thermometer. I simply open the door every couple minutes to take the temp, and adjust the oven temperature accordingly. When the part is at my desired temperature, that is when I start the timer. I check the temp about 4 times in a 10 minute long cure. However, opening the oven door does allow some heat to escape from your oven, which changes the readings that you just took. This is why its important to not leave the oven door open for a minute, just open the door quickly, get your IR thermometer in there, check the temperature, and shut the door. Just make sure not to burn yourself, it is a hot oven after all. Also make sure not to accidentally hit the part with the IR thermometer.<br />
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The most common curing schedules for powders are:<br />
400°F for 10 minutes (PMT)<br />
375°F for 15 minutes (PMT)<br />
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When you first start using the IR thermometer, you will probably be checking the temperature every 30 seconds, don't worry, that is normal. You will learn as you go along how the temperature behaves when dealing with different sizes and different types of metal. The bigger the part, the longer it will take to get up to temp. Iron and steel will take longer to heat up than aluminum. A small part such as a bolt can be up to temp in 30 seconds, a larger part like a wheel can take 30 minutes to get up to the 400 degree temperature. Your ovens efficiency will also have an effect on this, so if you ever change ovens, be sure to check the temperature more often until you learn your new oven. <br />
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Sometimes larger parts will heat up inconsistently, you will want to take your temp in a couple different spots to make sure the entire part is up to temp. It is not uncommon to have one side of a part 50 degrees off from the other side of the part. A convection oven helps reduce this affect a lot. If the side of your part closest to the heating element is getting up to temp way faster than the rest, you can put a metal shield over your heating element which will help your oven heat more evenly. If your heating element is on the bottom of your oven like mine, you can just sit a cookie sheet on an oven rack at the lowest position.<br />
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<h3>
<span style="font-size: large;">Part emissivity can reduce the accuracy of an Infrared Thermometer</span></h3>
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While infrared thermometers are very well-suited for powder coating, you should be aware that the accuracy of the temperature reading can be affected by the type of material, shape, angle of measurement, surface temperature, thickness, and surface quality. This is because of a factor called emissivity. All things emit some amount infrared energy and emissivity is used to describe this amount on a scale from 0 to 1. An emissivity of 0 would emit no infrared energy, and an emissivity of 1 would emit the highest amount of infrared energy. Infrared thermometers factor emissivity into their calculation of a surface temperature, so in order to obtain an accurate temperature reading, the emissivity of the object being measured should be accounted for.<br />
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Infrared thermometers by default, have the emissivity set at 0.95 as this works for a wide variety of materials, and many powder coats are in this range. Cheaper infrared thermometers do not allow you to adjust the emissivity so some of the temperature readings will be affected, especially metals, which generally all emit at much less than 0.95. For example, with an infrared thermometer set at the default emissivity of 0.95, reading the temperature of a 400°F polished aluminum sheet with an actual emissivity of 0.05, can result in a temperature error...<br />
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There are many tables available that list the emissivity of different materials and coatings. You can easily reference these charts to get a ballpark figure of the emissivity of your specific material. Keep in mind that because IR thermometers read the surface temperature, that you would reference the emissivity value specific to the outer surface of the material. Meaning, if you are measuring the temperature of an aluminum wheel that is powder coated, you would not adjust your IR thermometer to the emissivity of aluminum, but instead you would adjust it to the emissivity of the powder coat.<br />
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Unfortunately, there are not many tables that reference the emissivity of powder coat, but luckily, regardless of color, gloss level, or texture, they are mostly in the emissivity range of 0.9 to 0.95. However, some powder coats like chrome and other metallics have metal flakes in them which can reduce their emissivity down to the 0.4 - 0.5 range.<br />
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<h3>
<span style="font-size: large;"><br />Distance reduces the accuracy of an Infrared Thermometer</span></h3>
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The further away you get from the part, the less accurate they will be. This is called the "Distance-to-Spot ratio" or "Optical Resolution". The farther away your IR thermometer is reading, the larger the area it is reading. If are trying to take the temperature of a small bolt in an oven 10 feet away, even though your laser is pointed right at the bolt, you are actually taking the temperature of the entire interior of your oven. For the most accurate temperature readings of your part, and only your part, you should try to get as close as possible to the part with the infrared thermometer.<br />
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Optical Resolution is a ratio of the IR thermometer-to-part distance, and the size of the area being read. If an infrared thermometer says it has an Optical Resolution of 12:1, this means that if your infrared thermometer is 12 inches away from a part, it will read the temperature of an area that is 1 inch in diameter. At 24 inches, it would read a 2 inch diameter area, and at 36 inches, it would read a 3 inch diameter area. Think of the IR thermometer giving off a cone shaped beam that spreads out the further away it gets as shown in the picture below. <br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-m6aXn37_djI/UgWRE7FIozI/AAAAAAAABLM/UBnYNsrN5oI/s1600/FLUKE-B000MX5Y9C-3-sm.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="ir thermometer optical resolution" border="0" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-m6aXn37_djI/UgWRE7FIozI/AAAAAAAABLM/UBnYNsrN5oI/s320/FLUKE-B000MX5Y9C-3-sm.jpg" title="ir thermometer optical resolution" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Understanding the optical resolution of an Infrared Thermometer.</td></tr>
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The optical resolution of an IR temp gun is often correlated with the price. Meaning, the cheaper the IR temp gun you get, the lower the optical resolution is likely to be, so the closer you need to get to take your temperatures. For convenience while using these tools, try to find an infrared thermometer with the highest optical resolution that fits your budget. The higher the resolution, the further away you can be and still be accurate. An optical resolution of 12:1 is about average for the $100 range temp guns.<br />
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<i>Important: </i>When measuring very small parts and you have the IR thermometer close to the part, it is better to ignore where the laser is pointing and instead, focus on aiming the lens of the thermometer at the part. <br />
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If you powder coat for a living or you are a hobbyist that takes it seriously, then a Fluke Infrared Thermometer is the standard. Fluke makes professional tools that are highly accurate and trusted by workers in many industries. I would recommend the <b><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008EW837S/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B008EW837S&linkCode=as2&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=LTD6CS26WTBNDE3L" target="_blank">Fluke 62 Max+</a></b>. It has a 12:1 Distance-to-Spot Ratio, adjustable emissivity, and it has dual lasers so you know exactly what area you are reading.<br />
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<a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008EW837S/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=01953da8e89f9d60c54b5ffe4ff54217"><img alt="powder coating part metal temp ir thermometer" border="0" height="400" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-iS5mB4rBqAw/V788lzunkDI/AAAAAAAAC0I/JzTx1pXF2e4H7OZIW9xpDZMQxaU7VA82gCEw/s400/61yBqbWi7XL._SL1500_.jpg" title="" width="277" /></a></div>
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If you are on a budget, here is an infrared thermometer that still has great reviews, but won't break the bank and still reads at 12:1, it also has adjustable emissivity: <b><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07VSHR9M6/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=fc5efadc1d61af7c9848628ef3a53e9b&language=en_US" target="_blank">Kizen Infared Thermometer</a></b><br />
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While infrared thermometers are very useful for powder coating, they are also handy in many other situations. These IR temp guns are useful in the kitchen, around the house, and when working on a car.<br />
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<b>Powder coating can be used to coat many types of materials. The most common material is metal, but you can also powder coat wood, plastic, composites, glass, and MDF. The first consideration for coating objects besides metal, is can it withstand the temperature. Most plastics will melt when subjected to 400 degree heat for any length of time so it is important to research exactly what your object is made of before you try to powder coat it. </b><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This glass vase was powder coated red for Valentines Day.</td></tr>
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<h3 style="text-align: center;">
How can you powder coat non-metallic items when they aren't electrically conductive?</h3>
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When powder coating metal, the powder is electrostatically attracted to the metal as long as it is grounded. Well your average plastic, wood, or glass object is not electrically conductive. If you try to spray powder on them, the powder will just fall off and end up on the ground. The solution to powder coating these items is pre-heating. You can heat up the object in the oven, remove the object and powder coat it before it cools. When the powder hits the heated part, it will slightly melt on contact, causing it to stick. After coating the entire part like this, you then place the part back in the oven and cure it like normal.<br />
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Something you must watch out for when powder coating a pre-heated item is that it is very easy to put on too thick of a coating. Because the powder is melting as soon as it hits the part, it makes it difficult to judge how much powder is on the part. If a coating is too thick, it can run like paint, it can show craters, and the chip resistance will suffer. A similar method is called hot-flocking. This method involves heating the part up to the cure temperature of the powder(usually 400 degrees F), removing the item from the oven and immediately spraying with powder. The powder will melt and flow out instantly, using this technique greatly increases the chances of too thick of a coating however.<br />
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The ability to coat several types of materials is something that is not very well-known but it allows you to apply the same beautiful finishes that can with metal, to many other objects. Next time you are feeling creative, grab a glass from your cabinet, mask off some neat designs, and see what you can come up with. <br />
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Powder coated wood by The Powder Coating Institute. <br />
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Powder is one of the most difficult parts of the whole process, choosing one that is. There are literally thousands of different kinds of powders in different colors, textures, and gloss levels. Then add in the fact that you can mix powders(Beginners, don't do this yet!) and do multiple coatings to achieve even more looks. It is baffling, I spend a huge amount of time selecting colors. If you would like to know some reputable websites to purchase powder from, check out my <a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2013/08/where-to-buy-powder.html#.UhxlbuWWnrR" target="_blank">recommendations</a>.<br />
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Lets get in to the different types of powders, below refers to how or what the powder is actually made out of:<br />
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1.<b> EPOXY</b> - These types of powders are very impact resistant and are used when corrosion prevention and adhesion is needed the most. But, they can not be exposed to sunlight as they are not uv stable. They are best left indoors, under the car, or on factory equipment. In the sun, the epoxy coatings develop a whitish haze and eventually look like crap. <br />
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2. <b>POLYESTER</b>(Urethane and TGIC)- These are the most common powders, chances are, your powder will be polyester or a blend of polyester. They hold up great outdoors in the elements and have good all-around characteristics. <br />
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3. <b>ACRYLIC</b> - This is mainly used for clear coats. An acrylic clear powder coat will be very smooth and more clear than a clearcoat made of a different type of powder. Also has very good chemical resistance. <br />
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4. <b>FLUOROPOLYMER</b> - These have the best outdoor characteristics of all the powders, mainly used for outdoor industrial coatings, most of the powders you will be able to order in small amounts will not be a fluoropolymer. <br />
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Types of powders from a visual standpoint:<br />
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-Regular Solid Colors (covers all of the regular colors in all of their different gloss levels)<br />
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<img alt="" border="0" height="1" hidden="" src="https://www.assoc-amazon.com/e/ir?t=powcoathecomg-20&l=as2&o=1&a=B001EDUFD4" style="border: medium none; display: none !important; margin: 0px;" width="1" /></div>
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-Chromes(the most reflective types of powder, but the name can be misleading, while it shares the same characteristics as Chrome of being silver and very shiny, it will not actually look like real chrome plating. To me, this is not a bad thing, if you want the chrome look, either polish it(if your on a budget) or have it chromed. The chrome powder coat still has a beautiful and unique look. The downside to chrome powders is they all have to be clear coated. They are made up of actual aluminum flakes to give them that metallic shine. After they are cured, they will oxidize very fast leaving a terrible looking finish similar to bare aluminum if left unprotected. Clear coating the chrome prevents the oxidation from happening. Clear coating adds an extra step and it takes away the amazing look of the chrome powder coat but it is a necessary evil. The reason this happens is the clear top coat affects the way the light shines off of the chrome, instead of seeing the chrome reflection, you are seeing the clear reflection. Acrylic clear coat is best for minimizing this effect but no clear is invisible. <br />
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Chrome can also be used as a base coat for other colors, especially candy colors.<br />
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Here is an example of Black Chrome on a set of brake lines done by me:<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1zIkjXePN_k/ULxlzO49OsI/AAAAAAAAA60/EUpMH4kTx3c/s1600/black%2Bchrome%2Bbrake%2Blines.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="black chrome powder coat brake lines" border="0" height="300" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1zIkjXePN_k/ULxlzO49OsI/AAAAAAAAA60/EUpMH4kTx3c/s400/black%2Bchrome%2Bbrake%2Blines.png" title="black chrome powder coat brake lines" width="400" /></a></div>
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- Candy colors: These come in many colors and they get their effect from being translucent.To achieve the candy look, the part must have either a chrome or silver powder coat base coat or have an actual chrome plated or polished finish . <br />
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<img alt="" border="0" height="1" hidden="" src="https://www.assoc-amazon.com/e/ir?t=powcoathecomg-20&l=as2&o=1&a=B001EDUFE8" style="border: medium none; display: none !important; margin: 0px;" width="1" /> <br />
Here is a wheel coated with a candy powder coat called Shocker Yellow from Prismatic Powders. The base coat used was Super Chrome Powder Coat:<br />
<a href="http://www.powdercoatingit.com/"></a><br />
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- Veins & Wrinkles: These powder coats actually provide a physical texture that you can see and feel. These textures can only be done using powder coating. They come in many colors and many types of textures. Besides adding the unique textured look, they can offer functionality where grip is needed. The texture actually can provide traction. <br />
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Here is an example of a Black wrinkle powder coat on a valve cover:<br />
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<a href="http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa55/deeewuuu/PowderCoating085.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="powder coated bmw valve cover black texture" border="0" height="266" src="https://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa55/deeewuuu/PowderCoating085.jpg" title="powder coated bmw valve cover black texture" width="400" /></a></div>
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- Clears: Clear powder coat can provide a 2nd layer of protection to your powder coated pieces. You can also enhance the look using a clear powder coat. It gives some colors more depth, especially gloss black when top-coating it with a high gloss clear. Clears are available in different gloss levels and some have added metallic flakes, this allows you to make very unique colors that wouldn't normally be available. For example, black chrome looks great as is when it is glossy, but adding a flat or semi-gloss clear gives it a more subtle modern look. <br />
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An example of black chrome and semi-gloss:<br />
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<a href="http://boneheadperformance.com/wp-content/uploads/black-chrome-semi-gloss-clear-150x200.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="black chrome powder coat flat clear" border="0" height="320" src="https://boneheadperformance.com/wp-content/uploads/black-chrome-semi-gloss-clear-150x200.jpg" title="black chrome powder coat flat clear" width="240" /></a></div>
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This company has an amazing color sample wall, you can see almost every powder coat color that exists on their metal bottles, check out the pictures on their site.<br />
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In order to powder coat, you will need some type of oven in order to cure the powder coating. You will need an oven that is capable of sustaining 450 degrees and it will have to be large enough to fit your powder coated objects inside of. There are several different options available to a beginning powder coater and they will be discussed in this post. <br />
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The cheapest powder coating ovens that you can use to start with if you don't want to spend too much money are: a toaster oven, a household oven, or a propane grill. You can also get lucky and find a cheap commercial oven. If you have a larger budget, you can build or buy a large dedicated powder coating oven. Powders coating ovens are one of those things where the price goes up gradually with the size until you pass household oven and then the price jumps into the thousands of dollars range. An oven you could fit 4 wheels or a bike frame would cost you $2000 or more. If you want to an oven that will fit a car, you're looking at $10,000 to $20,000. <br />
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><b>BUILD YOUR OWN POWER COATING OVEN</b></span><br />
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The absolute cheapest way to a large powder coating oven is to build one yourself. If you would like to see complete step-by-step instructions to build your own powder coating oven like the one below, check out our article "<a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2014/09/how-to-build-powder-coating-oven.html#.VBmS-OW6PxU" target="_blank"><b>How to Build a Powder Coating Oven</b></a>" and <b><a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2014/09/how-to-build-powder-coating-oven-part-ii.html" target="_blank">How to Build a Powder Coating Oven: Part 2</a></b>.<br />
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<a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2014/09/how-to-build-powder-coating-oven.html#.VBmS-OW6PxU"><img alt="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2014/09/how-to-build-powder-coating-oven.html#.VBmS-OW6PxU" border="0" data-original-height="509" data-original-width="900" height="360" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1igFv-0Up2Y/Wn_1nJ3DpoI/AAAAAAAADM4/ToGZWPzbKQgtUh6sbb7EqzIXcrAzC-kWACLcBGAs/s640/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2Bheader%2Bimage%2B2.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<h3>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">POWDER COATING OVENS FOR BEGINNERS</span></h3>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Toaster Oven</span></h4>
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<img alt="" border="0" height="1" hidden="" src="https://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=powcoathecomg-20&l=as2&o=1&a=B004USWRA4" style="border: medium none; display: none; margin: 0px;" width="1" /><br />
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<a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OXSR486/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=4036b720995b817d896d89d2773f01b1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating largest toaster oven" border="0" height="144" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-0-njIKQfzuY/V78-1fw8yZI/AAAAAAAAC0g/hojns_tIIvMVO3FCxsjIhMetNtqUsPt1wCLcB/s200/71bmkFoLVoL._SL1500_.jpg" title="" width="200" /></a></div>
If you want to start powder coating this week, a toaster oven is the perfect type of oven to start out with, also good if you know you are only going to be powder coating small items. They are cheap, readily available, heat up faster than a household oven and use less electricity. They take up less space and they can operate off of a normal 110 volt outlet so you can plug it in anywhere. If you want the absolute largest toaster oven out there, check out the <a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OXSR486/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=d8cf230795aceb240686daf79067bc22">Oster TSSTTVDGXL-SHP Extra Large Digital Toaster Oven</a><img alt="" border="0" height="1" hidden="" src="https://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=powcoathecomg-20&l=as2&o=1&a=B004USWRA4" style="border: medium none; display: none; margin: 0px;" width="1" />. This is the toaster oven that I was planning on buying but instead, decided to just go straight to a household oven. If you want to use a toaster oven though, the Oster is the one to get. It is ~16" wide x 13" deep and it bows out in the back to make it a little bigger. Highly recommended as far as powder coating toaster ovens go.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-L1ksSQGItTo/Wn_vKla66iI/AAAAAAAADMg/e4yqyNtNf3Ecb0PK12LCU4xuRvkF4GYzwCLcBGAs/s1600/F2IR1M4J1WWAVJG.MEDIUM.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="348" data-original-width="620" height="223" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-L1ksSQGItTo/Wn_vKla66iI/AAAAAAAADMg/e4yqyNtNf3Ecb0PK12LCU4xuRvkF4GYzwCLcBGAs/s400/F2IR1M4J1WWAVJG.MEDIUM.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A simple solution to cure powder coated Yeti cups. (Do at your own risk)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<b><br />
</b> <span style="font-size: large;"><b>Household Oven</b></span> <br />
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-btaLt-OJQrA/Wn_v0kUamKI/AAAAAAAADMo/4tX_ZfdyKWQIap9y_U-m90FHog_E4R_LQCLcBGAs/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Bhousehold%2Boven.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="675" height="320" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-btaLt-OJQrA/Wn_v0kUamKI/AAAAAAAADMo/4tX_ZfdyKWQIap9y_U-m90FHog_E4R_LQCLcBGAs/s320/powder%2Bcoating%2Bhousehold%2Boven.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><p>
Household ovens are the go-to oven of the beginning powder coater. They are cheap, abundant, and big enough to powder coat individual wheels or a handful of smaller parts at once. If you have $100, you have the option of basically any used oven in Craigslist/Facebook Marketplace appliances section. You don't really need any fancy features except a timer, and the oven has to be able to keep a stable temperature throughout the powder coat curing cycle. You can also get a double oven if you want to coat larger quantities of parts at the same time. Assuming you are using a used household oven, all of the old food grease needs to be thoroughly cleaned out or it will cause issues with your coatings. <span style="color: red;">Any oven used for powder coating should never again be used for food. </span> </p><p> The standard oven racks are very useful for hanging parts from, but one issue is that they have to be put an angle to slide them into or out of the oven. You can easily modify the oven rack so that you can slide it in straight and level. Place your oven rack on a solid surface with the back angled edge facing down, and hammer it flat. Focus on the thicker outer edge and the rest of the smaller bars will follow. <br />
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Vt8qrcPhQbo/Wn_uZGMe0fI/AAAAAAAADMY/jL-MbuoqUvM4CK--sMocpRpCsRRkr_3QwCLcBGAs/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Brack.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="349" data-original-width="463" height="241" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Vt8qrcPhQbo/Wn_uZGMe0fI/AAAAAAAADMY/jL-MbuoqUvM4CK--sMocpRpCsRRkr_3QwCLcBGAs/s320/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Brack.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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The downside to a household oven is that they need their own 240v outlet/circuit. Unless you have one in your garage already, you will need to have one installed or install it yourself. There are guides all over the internet, like this <a href="https://www.bhg.com/home-improvement/electrical/how-to-add-a-volt-receptacle/">one</a> teaching you how to install it, and it is pretty straightforward. You really only need a few parts such as a <b><a href="https://www.amazon.com/Siemens-Q230-240-Volt-Circuit-Breaker/dp/B00002N5HJ/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1472152057&sr=8-1&keywords=30+amp+breaker&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=7c508c14e3abc0c6b32f51ddfdd60beb">breaker</a></b> specific to your breaker box, <b><a href="https://www.amazon.com/SouthWire-63948421-3WG-Wire-25-Foot/dp/B000BP7X8G/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1472151948&sr=8-1&keywords=10/3+wire&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=f496663a2cc04873c24a104e894f0779">10/3 wire</a></b>, and <b><a href="https://www.amazon.com/Eaton-WD1212-125-Volt-Surface-Receptacle/dp/B000FPDO7G/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1472152270&sr=8-4&keywords=stove+outlet&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=cd9e52655982edf70296e7f497e7e655">240v receptacle</a></b>. However, it is a job that can KILL YOU if you make a mistake. Electricity is no joke and is something to respect. An improper install can also lead to a fire. Keep that in mind when you are choosing between doing it yourself or calling an electrician. I did do it myself, never having experience with home electricity, and I'm still alive and my house is still standing, but I was extremely careful and spent an entire day making sure it was right, after spending an entire day researching it. You can also use a gas oven, just keep in mind that a cloud of powder has the potential to be flammable, so powder coating in an enclosed room with no ventilation, right next to your gas oven is a practice that should be avoided. Shield your powder coated part from any open flame and never spray the part while it is in the oven.<br />
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">Pregnant Oven</span></b><br />
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For those needing a bigger oven, you can make what is called a "pregnant oven" . This is when you make an add-on extension to add on to your existing oven. Usually the oven door is left open and a box with an open side rests on it and seals against the oven opening to make a larger oven. <br />
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Here is an example of a temporary Pregnant Oven setup made using cheap insulated panels and foil tape. materials. <br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-0sB2IBM3a6s/UKe6uPQh9PI/AAAAAAAAA6U/YOJx2lrThcQ/s1600/PregnantOven.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating pregnant oven extension" border="0" height="268" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-0sB2IBM3a6s/UKe6uPQh9PI/AAAAAAAAA6U/YOJx2lrThcQ/s400/PregnantOven.jpg" title="" width="315" /></a></div>
<i>NOTE:</i> This is a "do at your own risk" type of thing. Please use caution when modifying any oven. <br />
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You can modify an existing oven such as a double oven. If you cut the center out of a double oven, you will have a pretty good size oven. They are also not too expensive on Craigslist. <br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>PROPANE GRILL</b></span> <br />
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<a href="https://www.amazon.com/Royal-Gourmet-SG6002-6-Burner-Stainless/dp/B06XY4SHXG/ref=as_li_ss_tl?s=lawn-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1518331939&sr=1-23&keywords=propane+grill&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=c77976960c05480e9b8f39bde58ac44b" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="https://www.amazon.com/Royal-Gourmet-SG6002-6-Burner-Stainless/dp/B06XY4SHXG/ref=as_li_ss_tl?s=lawn-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1518331939&sr=1-23&keywords=propane+grill&linkCode=ll1&tag=powcoathecomg-20&linkId=c77976960c05480e9b8f39bde58ac44b" border="0" data-original-height="1500" data-original-width="1500" height="320" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-vVRh17hywAE/Wn_obs-QC5I/AAAAAAAADMI/-srYM-S52kkeHNaPXoqIiw8l-tftotBSQCLcBGAs/s320/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bpropane%2Bgrill.jpg" title="powder coating oven propane grill" width="320" /></a>This is a less conventional method. In fact, when I searched for others doing it, I found none. I tried using the propane grill for one reason. I was brand new to powder coating, was researching toaster ovens but hadn't bought one yet, my powder coat gun arrived in the mail, and I had to try it out right then. I didn't have an extra house oven, but I had a grill I never used in my backyard. It worked great, I put a cookie sheet down on the grate to shield the part from the flames, and made a rack using a gutted computer tower to fit inside the grill. All of my parts came out with no issues. However, with a grill, you have to babysit it the whole time to keep the temperature correct. I stood there with my infrared thermometer for the complete cure time, anytime the temp would move, I had 3 knobs to turn to get it back to the right temp. I became very good at this eventually. I eventually upgraded to a household oven but the grill served its purpose. If I couldn't install a 240V outlet in my garage, I would still be using the grill. The same warnings apply as the gas oven, you are dealing with an open flame and flammable powder. <br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-fhIQnaXb8ko/UKe5TBYaGzI/AAAAAAAAA6I/4JosdeZJVlk/s1600/grill.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="powder coating rack for small oven" border="0" height="408" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-fhIQnaXb8ko/UKe5TBYaGzI/AAAAAAAAA6I/4JosdeZJVlk/s640/grill.png" title="" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Powder coated parts cured in a grill.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;">HARBOR FREIGHT POWDER COATING OVEN</span> (This oven was discontinued unfortunately)</b><br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-OYPc8tOzDuY/VZOonhEbvZI/AAAAAAAACDk/gpMwybiJIhw/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven.bmp" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="harbor freight powder coating oven discontinued" border="0" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-OYPc8tOzDuY/VZOonhEbvZI/AAAAAAAACDk/gpMwybiJIhw/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven.bmp" title="" /></a><br />
This is an oven that was sold at harbor freight specifically for powder coating. The nice thing about it is that it is a lot bigger than any toaster oven, yet it plugs into a normal outlet. The inside dimensions of this oven are 18"x18"x18". In comparison, a household oven averages around 23" wide x 19" deep x 15" tall. This oven from harbor freight is considered to be very good quality and also has 5 star reviews. This oven was discontinued at Harbor Freight, but you can still find them used if you search hard enough.<br />
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<img border="0" height="1" hidden="" src="https://www.lduhtrp.net/image-7209741-10863227" style="display: none;" width="1" /><br />
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</b> <b><br />
</b> <b><br />
</b> <b></b><span style="font-size: large;"><b>INFRARED LAMP</b></span><br />
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Another way to cure your powder coated items is using a infrared curing lamp. This would be another solution to coating a large part without having a large oven. The down side is you must build some kind of enclosure around the part to keep the temperature high enough. The part will will not reach the desired temperature or heat evenly in open air. Also these infrared lamps can be expensive and they can only cure 1 side of a part at at time. If you were powder coating a cube, you would have to reposition the lamp 6 times to cure all sides. <br />
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PowderCoatGuidehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12345212251907477269noreply@blogger.com31tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6576346347573188227.post-59255960861974775262012-11-16T17:02:00.001-08:002020-05-24T06:21:52.643-07:00What is Powder Coating?Powder coating is the process of applying a paint in the form of powder. Regular liquid type paints are pigments and binders suspended in solvents. Powder coating is solvent free so you are just using the dry pigments and binders. Once the powder is sprayed on your work piece, it must be baked from 350 to 400 degrees F for 10-20 minutes. Each powder has its own specific curing schedule and you should always that schedule when dealing with that particular powder. When the powder is heated, it melts into a liquid, connects together, cures, and once cooled, is dried to a hard, beautiful finish. <br />
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</center>You can powder coat almost any object that can withstand the cure temperature of the powder. It is the most common to powder coat metal, however, you can also powder coat composites, MDF, glass, and other items that will not be damaged when subjected to powder coating temperatures. <br />
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Generally, when powder coating metal, the powder is given a positive charge when it leaves the gun and it is attracted to a grounded workpiece. Once the piece is fully and evenly coated, you carefully transfer it to an oven that can heat the powder to the specified temperature. The powder will melt, flow out, and then cure during this process. The usual specification for the piece is anywhere from 350 degrees F for 20 minutes to 400 degrees F for 10 minutes. <br />
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Powder Coating metal serves a couple of purposes. The functional purpose is that it provides a barrier between the metal and the oxygen around it protecting it from corrosion. When it comes to iron or steel, this is very important to prevent rust. . However, if the powder coating is scratched, or chipped down to the bare metal underneath, rust can start in this spot. Media blasting a part before powder coating will provide a profile for the powder to adhere tightly to the part, this helps reduce the spread of rust underneath the powder coating after it is scratched and keeps it centralized to just the scratched area. You can read more on creating a profile <a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2013/01/8-media-blaster.html">here</a>. <br />
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The aesthetic purpose of powder coat is that you can choose from an almost unlimited amount of colors, textures, gloss-levels, ect. Powder coat colors can be applied in multiple coats to achieve even more unique finishes. <br />
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To learn the very basic steps of the powder coating process, check out my <a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2013/08/simple-step-by-step-powder-coating.html">Step-by-Step Tutorial</a>. <br />
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