tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6576346347573188227.post5471665408971046718..comments2024-03-14T07:18:43.943-07:00Comments on Powder Coating: The Complete Guide: Cleaning and Degreasing before Powder CoatingPowderCoatGuidehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12345212251907477269noreply@blogger.comBlogger46125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6576346347573188227.post-85235924626124980782019-08-10T08:23:15.317-07:002019-08-10T08:23:15.317-07:00Thanks for this very useful info you have provided...Thanks for this very useful info you have provided us. I will bookmark this for future reference and refer it to my friends. More power to your blog.<br /><a href="http://www.goprocleaning.com/Go-Pro/office-cleaning-in-montreal/" rel="nofollow">Office Cleaning Services West Island</a>Menage Go Prohttps://www.blogger.com/profile/10608185499376850250noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6576346347573188227.post-7542999042905064432019-03-23T14:21:22.819-07:002019-03-23T14:21:22.819-07:00Thanks for reading, Its good to hear that you find...Thanks for reading, Its good to hear that you find the information helpful. <br />To clear coat chrome powder coat, you would shoot the chrome just like any other powder and make sure that you fully cure it and let it cool down to room temperature. Do not handle the cured powder coat with your bare hands, it needs to remain clean and free of any oils or debris until it is clear coated. Also it is important to clear coat it as quickly as possible do prevent the chrome powder from oxidizing. Same day or next day is best. <br /><br />If you have to mask the part at all, it is good to pull the masking after the chrome powder flows out (while the part is still warm), and then fully cure it. You will then have to re-mask the part (with gloves to keep it clean) to shoot the clear coat. <br /><br />When you spray the clear, it is very helpful to have a bright LED flashlight pointed at the part. This will help you determine if you have sprayed the clear heavy enough. You want the whole part to achieve a flat white appearance. If you can see the chrome through the white, you don't have enough coverage and your final finish will have a rough appearance and texture. You also don't want to shoot too heavy as this will cause the chrome finish to lose its chrome-like appearance. <br /><br />After shooting the part, do a full cure on it according to the clear powder instructions (removing any masking after the clear flows out). <br /><br />That is all there is to it. For more detailed info, please check out this article, Spraying Multiple Coats: http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2015/07/spraying-multiple-coats.html#.V-0PYCS1iW-<br /><br />There is a section specific to shooting chrome. <br />Good luck!PowderCoatGuidehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/12345212251907477269noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6576346347573188227.post-69611465752405186992019-03-23T07:59:04.259-07:002019-03-23T07:59:04.259-07:00Fantastic information and thanks for taking the ti...Fantastic information and thanks for taking the time to post it. I am looking to powder coat clear over chrome powder to keep the shine. What process would you recommend for adding the clear? This will be my first time powdering over powder. I am using the Redline EZ50 and Prism powders. TIACory Knipenoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6576346347573188227.post-69965829230295309162019-02-20T16:06:49.587-08:002019-02-20T16:06:49.587-08:00Most aluminum does not start to break down until a...Most aluminum does not start to break down until around 1200 degrees. Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/13082348412206056619noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6576346347573188227.post-67008356016370195122018-10-12T14:35:10.700-07:002018-10-12T14:35:10.700-07:00Thank you for clarifying the outgas process. I wi...Thank you for clarifying the outgas process. I will definitely sandblast again. I appreciate your feedback! MarkAnonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/06227591503719224742noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6576346347573188227.post-91988190080562455272018-10-11T20:46:35.624-07:002018-10-11T20:46:35.624-07:00Thank you for your question, I am glad to hear tha...Thank you for your question, I am glad to hear that you find the site helpful. As for your question, the correct order is to outgas first (if necessary) and then do your sandblasting. The reason for this is that when you outgas, any of those trapped oils that rise to the surface can leave a residue on the surface itself. If there is no step after outgassing (like blasting) to remove the hardened oil residue on the surface, it will still be there when you powder coat and it can cause issues. <br /><br />The heat during outgassing can also accelerate the corrosion process on metal, so if you don't blast after outgassing, your metal will not be as clean as it could be. The brown tint you are seeing is oxidation and it should be removed before coating. <br /><br />Hope that helps, let me know if you have any more questions. PowderCoatGuidehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/12345212251907477269noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6576346347573188227.post-49642598594990135942018-10-11T09:19:14.476-07:002018-10-11T09:19:14.476-07:00Hello Sean,
THANK YOU for your hard work on your ...Hello Sean,<br /><br />THANK YOU for your hard work on your Web Site. Extremely informative and a blessing to reference. <br /><br />May I ask you a question, as I am trying to "wrap" my understanding of the following theory....<br /><br />After degreasing, is there any issues if I outgas the steel part AFTER I sandblast it?<br />(Could it be theoretical that if I sandblast the topcoat paint, it would allow the oils to evaporate/breath from the exposed pores of the substrate?)<br /><br />After re-reading your steps, I found I did the reverse, which is why I am asking.<br /><br />FYI...<br />1). After sandblasting steel with glass, the parts were clean, gray and no trace of rust.<br />2). After outgassing the sandblasted steel parts, my parts now have a tinted brown (not rust that I am aware).<br /><br />Thank you again for your insight and time!<br />MarkAnonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/06227591503719224742noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6576346347573188227.post-60871468140580256992017-08-19T10:31:11.752-07:002017-08-19T10:31:11.752-07:00I have had some wheels powder coated and have diam...I have had some wheels powder coated and have diamond cut them at work. I want to clear coat them after the diamond cut do I need to out gas them again or just a good clean then clear coat? Ok hanks. Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/17627010615022487380noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6576346347573188227.post-70307902169231161072017-05-13T17:40:58.975-07:002017-05-13T17:40:58.975-07:00 Thanks Sean. I had been told I needed a special ... Thanks Sean. I had been told I needed a special wash solution. Soap and water will be much easier. Appreciate the help! Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/16274430966778632180noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6576346347573188227.post-61320782724726562152017-05-13T02:57:21.005-07:002017-05-13T02:57:21.005-07:00When I do motorcycle tanks, I fill them up with ho...When I do motorcycle tanks, I fill them up with hot water and dawn dish soap and swish it around for a couple minutes, then i stick a hose in the tank and just let the water flush through the tank for 10 minutes. Then immediately blow out all of the water with compressed air. I haven't had an issue doing it this way. PowderCoatGuidehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/12345212251907477269noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6576346347573188227.post-48228790490240206592017-05-09T14:16:57.465-07:002017-05-09T14:16:57.465-07:00Hi Sean,
I'm interested in powder coating a m...Hi Sean,<br /> I'm interested in powder coating a motorcycle gas tank. What would you recommend to clean the inside of the tank so that it is safe to go thru the oven?Myranda M.noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6576346347573188227.post-40291440091715605082017-03-11T06:41:33.924-08:002017-03-11T06:41:33.924-08:00That is tricky as everyone suggests acetone for re...That is tricky as everyone suggests acetone for removing spray foam. However, acetone will likely discolor powder coating so that would be a bad idea. I would start with denatured alcohol and see if it has any effect on the foam. If not, you can try goof-off or "sticker & label remover" (it should state that it is safe on painted surfaces). If none of those work, I am out of ideas. PowderCoatGuidehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/12345212251907477269noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6576346347573188227.post-18061221446490650362017-03-06T17:05:07.407-08:002017-03-06T17:05:07.407-08:00Sean - Not sure if you can suggest a cleaning prod...Sean - Not sure if you can suggest a cleaning product but here goes...I dripped a bit of spray foam onto an accessory that appears to be powder coated. Most of it came of with a razor edge but there is a small patch of polyurethane remaining. It's really bugging me and I don't want to make it worse...please help! <br />Thanks,<br />DavidAnonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6576346347573188227.post-2166974334822126602017-02-14T01:04:05.531-08:002017-02-14T01:04:05.531-08:00Completely prepared and skill in the field of clea... Completely prepared and skill in the field of cleaning, the expert cleaners give household and business cleaning as well as offer administrations, for example, cover cleaning and steam cover cleaning too. Every one of the administrations can be profited in focused costs and turned out to be at standard with the in house cleaner for household cleaning in the value of work they give. <a href="https://www.qualitypropertycare.co.uk/office-home-window-door-cleaners/uxbridge-ub/" rel="nofollow">Quality Property Care<br /></a>Sarahhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/01618128254174522484noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6576346347573188227.post-65611721837748892792016-09-18T21:32:05.821-07:002016-09-18T21:32:05.821-07:00Thanks!
First, I have to question the choice of a...Thanks! <br />First, I have to question the choice of acetone and thinner. It is not common, but acetone has been known to leave contaminants on parts. I would personally use denatured alcohol as a cleaning solution. As far as a tank, I'm not sure it would be the best bet for a cleaner as it would eventually accumulate oils and dirt which wouldn't make the best cleaning solution. However, I'm not sure of your exact procedures, so if you are looking for a tank, I would recommend a trough style tank so that it can accommodate longer parts. You can google trough along with your required dimensions and you'll hopefully find something your looking for. <br /><br />Another alternative is to simply spray on your cleaning solution nice and heavy and let it drip off of the part. This is commonly done by powder coaters using a commercial sprayer. Think of the backpack type sprayers but you don't actually have to wear it on your back. This method requires that you blow the part off with compressed air and to wait a little bit for the cleaner to completely evaporate. <br /><br />Hope that helps!PowderCoatGuidehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/12345212251907477269noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6576346347573188227.post-35172122473237665662016-09-16T10:57:12.752-07:002016-09-16T10:57:12.752-07:00Hi Sean,
I love your site and it's very inter...Hi Sean, <br />I love your site and it's very intersting too!!<br />I work for a company that hasn't got any pre treatment plant. So we just wipe the items down with thinner and acetone. I would like to try to make a DIY tank where I could just dip items in maybe say 1.5M in length, is there anything you would recommend or is there any other way we could make it easier for our self. I can't seeing the company installing any pre treatment yet anyway.<br /> Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6576346347573188227.post-14999964962258159042016-09-09T18:35:02.562-07:002016-09-09T18:35:02.562-07:00That is interesting. I never thought about using a...That is interesting. I never thought about using an ultrasonic cleaner before, but I could see how it would be effective.Sourcehttp://homeimprovementsource.weebly.comnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6576346347573188227.post-3447398694719356522016-07-01T04:08:11.062-07:002016-07-01T04:08:11.062-07:00Are you up for a new compressor and shopping aroun...Are you up for a new compressor and shopping around for a durable and affordable one? You should be able to research and learn about the different compressors out there before buying one so you can search.garryhttp://victorcrafter.com/noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6576346347573188227.post-60417016916684439822016-06-27T22:18:10.797-07:002016-06-27T22:18:10.797-07:00Galvanized steel can be prone to outgassing during...Galvanized steel can be prone to outgassing during the bake cycle. This results in little pinholes in the powder coat from where the gasses escaped through the coating. This can usually be cured by outgassing the steel prior to powder coating. I usually outgass at 450 degrees F for 30 minutes to an hour or until the part has finished smoking. If the part still outgasses through the powder coating, you can use an outgas-forgiving primer prior to the color coat. This primer is applied to the part while the part is around 400 degrees and cures almost instantly. This product can be purchased from Powder365.com and it is labeled as red oxide primer. <br /><br />As far as preparing the galvanized sheeting, there is a process called brush blasting or sweep blasting that can be used to achieve some texture on the surface of the sheeting as well as remove any surface oxides. This can be done with a normal media blaster. The process consists of turning the pressure of the media blaster to around 40 psi and using a non-metallic abrasive. All of the blasting is done at no more than a 45 degree angle and the media blasting gun should be held about 15 inches away from the part. The main goal of this is not to remove the galvanizing so it must be done with a light touch. PowderCoatGuidehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/12345212251907477269noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6576346347573188227.post-74378932678010536542016-06-25T18:00:39.737-07:002016-06-25T18:00:39.737-07:00Sir how about galvanized iron sheet? What is the s...Sir how about galvanized iron sheet? What is the simplest and economical whay to prep for powder coating. Assuming that the sheet is new. I make enclosure boxes Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/05901637447929814134noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6576346347573188227.post-55784411762781821552016-04-08T22:58:23.649-07:002016-04-08T22:58:23.649-07:00There are a couple of different things you can try...There are a couple of different things you can try and their effectiveness depends on how well the spray paint is adhered to the wheels. You can try mechanical removal such as an aggressive clay bar or rubbing compound. Neither of them should affect the powder coat but the clay bar is usually only for overspray, not an entire coat. <br /><br />Or you can try to chemically remove the spray paint. The issue with this is that there is a larger chance that powder coat will be affected. They won't remove the powder coat, but they can definitely affect the gloss black finish of the powder coat. <br /><br />Denatured alcohol is actually safe on powder coating and if the spray paint isn't that old, it should remove it with some scrubbing. This would be my first choice but I always have denatured alcohol on hand. Its sold at hardware stores such as home depot or lows.<br /><br />From there I would try lacquer thinner. This should easily remove the spray paint but it also has a chance of affecting the powder coated finish. If the other methods did not work, I would try this on the backs of the wheels and see if it affects the finish at all. If it is safe to proceed, then you can continue on to do the whole wheel. It may be best to do it in small areas at a time by applying the lacquer thinner to a rag. Do a small area to remove the spray paint, then immediately wash it and then continue on. If you start to see any black on your rag, then it is definitely affecting the powder coated finish and there is no reason to continue with lacquer thinner unless you don't care too much about the finish. <br /><br />I hope that helps. I have never had to remove spray paint from powder but these are the methods I would try, starting with the denatured alcohol first. PowderCoatGuidehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/12345212251907477269noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6576346347573188227.post-82514166532047719502016-04-08T08:20:55.780-07:002016-04-08T08:20:55.780-07:00Sean-
Great stuff but I have a bit different prob...Sean-<br /><br />Great stuff but I have a bit different problem. I bought some black powder coated wheels for my Jeep. I didn't care for the glossy look so I sprayed them with a satin clear coat. The clear coat dried hard and cracked. How can I remove the clear coat "paint" and not damage the powder coat below?? Thanks for your input!! Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6576346347573188227.post-75898705746478113332016-01-19T12:18:27.834-08:002016-01-19T12:18:27.834-08:00Amazing advice, thank you for taking the time to r...Amazing advice, thank you for taking the time to replyThe Chirohealth Clinichttps://www.blogger.com/profile/03303469364196111065noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6576346347573188227.post-31658475010837202732016-01-18T23:23:19.436-08:002016-01-18T23:23:19.436-08:00I have clear coated bare steel with great results ...I have clear coated bare steel with great results and as long as you achieve complete coverage, you should have no issues with rust for a long time. The best method would have been to clean it and outgas it first before using the wire brush to polish it. Outgassing it may cause some surface rust, however, this is not due to moisture, it is just a chemical reaction that iron experiences when in contact with air. Heat speeds up this reaction. So if you do decide to outgas it, be prepared to do a little refinishing. <br /><br />If you are just trying to clean it, I would use denatured alcohol on a clean rag and keep wiping it down until you are no longer seeing any residue on the rag. Denatured alcohol is not water based and therefore will induce rusting. <br /><br />Once you get to the final stages of cleaning it, only handle it with clean gloves, do not touch it with your fingers as the oils from your fingers can cause rust fingerprints to appear on the metal. <br /><br />After cleaning it, you should powder coat it as fast as possible. The denatured alcohol will remove any oils from the surface of the metal leaving it completely unprotected from rusting. <br /><br />I would do 2 coats of clear to ensure complete coverage. <br /><br />Hope that helps.PowderCoatGuidehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/12345212251907477269noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6576346347573188227.post-65087545360852247842016-01-17T05:46:16.966-08:002016-01-17T05:46:16.966-08:00Hi Sean, some great info so thanks for that. Have ...Hi Sean, some great info so thanks for that. Have you ever clear powder coated polished cast iron? I've got an old cast window frame that I've polished and wire brushed and I'd love to keep the bare metal finish. There's bound to be some grease and dirt etc so I'm wondering how I'd go about cleaning it properly without causing it to start to rust afterwards. Also, would you expect the outgassing to result in it rusting as moisture etc is driven out? ThanksSpencernoreply@blogger.com